MONZTER
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Posts posted by MONZTER
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I have been running a twin disc clutch master FX-600 for over a year now on the street and Autocross. It uses Kevlar on the disc so its not as grabby as the FX-700 that uses metal. I was having problems breaking the straps on a standard type clutch and the design of this unit eliminated that with the aluminum pressure plate. The complete unit including flywheel weighs 17 lbs. The speed at which it revs is insane. I have had no problems with it, mind you I dont have 500 HP but my new motor will be close to that and I plan on swapping it right over.
Jeff
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I used AP calipers and rotors on my project. Everything was custom and nothing stock would work. Here are some pics of the custom mounts and bell. It is not cheap or easy, especially with post mounts. Check out my gallery for more pics.
Jeff
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So who else out there daily drives their S30?
I still drive mine nearly every day. The problem is its taking a toll on the car and me.
I bought the car and have been driving it, and working on it for about 5 years now. It is pretty modified for AutoX and it has been converted over to fuel injection. A couple things have happened lately to get me thinking about not driving it every day. The first one being a picture I found of the car about 6 months after buying it. The paint is still original, and man does it look a lot worse now then then. The interior is also staring to show signs of wear. The crack in the dash has gone for 1/2 in to about 3 inch, the center counsel is now cracked, the seats ripping ect...ect.ect.
I also have notice how much my clothes smell like fumes after driving it. All the rubber has been replaced, and the tuning is spot on, I know bad air recirculation is part of the problem. What is this doing to my health every day? It cant be good for the long term can it...
So do I keep spending money on the Z as it continues to get beat, or do I park it for weekend use only and buy a cheap practical new car for commuting and daily use.
What do you guys think
Jeff
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Thanks Paul,
I got the 8mm stainless studs a long time ago when ARP started doing the import stuff. Somewhere ARP found me stainless 10mm 12 point nuts, but they had no matching Stainless studs.
I have to use 10mm studs for the top of the intake flange, as I have angled the runners up relative to the head and bolts will not fit in the holes without hitting the runners (does that make any sense?) Oh well I have ugly black oxide studs I will be stuck with for now. Thanks again for looking.
Best Regards
Jeff
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Hi Paul,
Do you know if ARP now makes 10mm studs and 12pt nuts that would fit the FI intake. I also tapped the head on the outside exhaust flange for 10mm so I would need six if you could get them.
Thanks Jeff
Exhaust/Intake studs
Stainless steel 170,000 PSI Tensile strength exhaust/intake studs, M8x1.25 thread… Studs utilize internal hex for inserting the studs, 170,000 PSI tensile, and come with 12 point nuts. Come in packs of 4, 8, 10, and 12. Come in lengths of 32mm(1.25â€), 38mm (1.5â€), 45mm(1.75â€), 51mm(2.00â€), 57mm(2.25â€)
4pack;
32mm 400-8001
38mm 400-8002
45mm 400-8003
51mm 400-8004
57mm 400-8005
8 pack;
32mm 400-8011
38mm 400-8012
45mm 400-8013
51mm 400-8014
57mm 400-8015
10 pack;
32mm 400-8021
38mm 400-8022
45mm 400-8023 (OE length Datsun L-6)
51mm 400-8024
57mm 400-8025
12 pack;
32mm 400-8031
38mm 400-8032
45mm 400-8033
51mm 400-8034
57mm 400-8035
Hope that helps,
Paul
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Rainer,
Ignore the initial advance number, that is for start-up only. Just look at the numbers on the chart. Also, please remember what Ron said, every configuration and every car will be different. Please use the chart as a reference only.
Best regards
Jeff
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Hi Rainer,
Those are my actual timing numbers per RPM and MAP points. The head has small 36cc chambers so the burn is very fast. A few degrees is probably need to be added for a stock N-42 head
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Thanks for the help.
Good point about the fuel cut on a turbo engine
Jeff
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Hey Tec 3 people. I never have got my rev limiter to be "soft" It seem to come on very aggressive and really jerk the car hard when it hits. I have it set to 8000, so I am worried about the sudden hit shaking the drive train to bits. For tunng, I have set the rev limit to 3000 to try and get a soft limit while street driving, but have had no luck. It seems like the different setting don't do too much.
Do any of you guys have a good set-up you would like to share the parameters with me and the group.
Thanks Jeff
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Maybe this thread will help. Some of us posted our Tec 3 tables. My car is also a L-24, but my head is pretty modified so my timing might seem a little less than most. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=122406
Best Regards
Jeff
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When I had 225-50-16 v700 all the way around, I used 1 inch up front and 3/4 rear mount Addco style in back, felt great for me. When I switched to 245 45-16 all the way around the car went from what I like to way more oversteer. I tried no bar in the back, but the car felt kinda slow to respond to input, I even tried more rear toe / no good. I next tried a 1-1/8 front with the 3/4 rear bar again, still not feeling good. Finally, I made a new rear bar out of 5/8 stress proof and put the 1" back in front and the car is back on track to what I like.
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Hi David,
Been running my tank set-up for over 1 year now. I have been autocrossing it as well as daily driving it. I can say I have never had a single problem with fuel starvation. I can run below a 1/4 tank for autocross and not a problem. I will use this same set-up for my turbo motor I am building with no worries.
Jeff
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I just had a head done by Dave Rebello. I sent him OS 46mm intake and OS 38mm exhaust, as well as stock size Intake and stock size exhaust, all were SS swirl polished undercut. I also sent him oversized seats. When he was done with it he ended up using the OS valve seats, the stock size intake, and machined the OS exhaust down to be only 1mm bigger than stock. He said he does not like the OS valves from his testing. So my head when finished flowed 212 at 25" .5 lift on the intake and 150 at 25" .5 lift on the exhaust. Note: this head was a p-90 for my turbo project and the valves were the SI brand.
BTW from what I can tell everybody is using the SI valves and just re-selling them. You can buy the SS swirl polished, undercut ones diretly from them for about $8.00 each and they ship really fast. Nice parts. here is their link http://www.sivalves.com/ocforeign_valvessp_nis.html
Hope this helps
Jeff
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Looks like it should be perfectly aligned now, good idea
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Thanks for the help guys, your comments got my brain working again, I figured out what I am going to do.
Best Regards
Jeff
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Thanks Tony,
So you think the integrated log in the cannon manifold is not good enough.. huh..( I think the ID is .5") , I should add a second log... Is this to isolate the log equally from any particular runner?
Thanks again
Jeff
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What is your guys opinion on the best source for a vacuum signal on a triple throttle body turbo set up. I need a good signal for MAP, Fuel pressure regulator, Boost gauge and Blow off Valve. I was thinking about using the Cannon Manifold that has the tube connecting all the runners, and then tapping into only the last runner closest to the firewall. Do you think I will get a good clean signal, or will it be biased too much to the last cylinder? I want to be as clean looking as possible without a bunch of hoses running everywhere, like if I used all 6 of the fittings in the throttle bodies and made a separate vacuum log.
Thanks for your opinions
Jeff
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Some people said they were saving them. How do you do that? I cant figure it out, does youtube let you do it.
Thanks
Jeff
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just finshed doing mine. Also have to remove the shifting insert form the side of the case (2 10mm screw heads), and push out the pin on the shifter rod at the shifter cover plate.
Here is the fische for that trans.
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I saw this somewhere
It looked like it was just thrown together HAHAH
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My Understanding is that MSA is getting them from a special source in Japan. Before they were NLA in the US I got mine from MSA for 130.00. I assume there getting ripped on the price, and then mark it up there standard amount, thus the final high price. I guess it all supply and demand, and people gota make a living.
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Incidentally, my combustion chambers and pistons had been ceramic coated, and they both looked fine, aside from the damage done by the valve seat on #5. The ceramic coating had not flaked off, and appeared to be doing its job. The surfaces of both the pistons and the combustion chambers were smooth and not pitted at all.
Hey Tim,
Who did your ceramic coating, and which process was it.
Thanks
Jeff
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I don't know if this the correct way to start tuning, but I am self taught and this works for me.
1.) I set my VE Table to Zero and then put in what UAP and POT Wintec recommends based on the tuning wizard
2.) I set my Correction factor to something stupid like 50% (I am using a wideband connected tot the Tec unit)
3.) I start the car and immediately go to the VE table correction and start tweaking the table in the appropriate cell to get it to idle until warmed up
4.) after I get it warmed up I continue to tweak the VE table until it is idling where I want it to be ( for me 14.64)
5.) Next shut the car down and switch the VE table over to the Fuel Table (Corrected Injector Pulsewidth (ms)
6.) I look and write the numbers (Offset FPW) in the MAP and RPM zone I was idling in, and then look and write down the numbers (Offset FPW) where I believe my max RPM and MAP will be.
7.) I go back to the VE table and re-zero out the entire table
8.) I once again go back to the fuel table and look at the changed numbers
9.) I now adjust my UAP and POT settings on the top of the page up and down until I get the cells back to the numbers I wrote down before I re-zeroed my VE table
10.) I re-start the car and it idles pretty good with little correction
11.) I do some wide open pulls in third gear and once again tweak the VE table until it is where I want it running
12.) shut down the car and repeat steps 5 through 9 focusing this time on my max RPM and MAP cells
13.) re-start the car and it is really close on the idle and WOT
14.) Turn the correction factor way down to like 10 and get my accell and other enrichment parameters configured
15.) Go for a drive with the autotune on and let it dial in the VE table
16.) change the VE table to a graph and smooth it out
17.) Car runs pretty darn good
Again this is my method, and I have no idea if it is correct or way harder than it should be, It just works for me. I think it would be great to hear anyone else's methods
Jeff
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Hey Rags,
I did not mean you were wrong, just wanted you to know that the two were tied together. I just did not want to see you spending money on dyno time to get the TOG perfectly dialed in, only to find out it needs to be changed after modifying the IOT to get it to idle. I did my initial tuning on the street with the correction factor set at 50%. Once I got my TOG and IOT within 5% correction, I went to the dyno to tune the VE table. Even after the VE tune on the dyno I found some more power from data logging and doing an auto tune function, and then smoothing it out on the graph. I posted some of my tables on this link. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=122406
Good Luck
Jeff
Who Daily Drives their s30
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
Thats cool!!!