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Robzzzz

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Everything posted by Robzzzz

  1. I have a 240 that was allready converted to disk and I am swaping the setup into a relatively rust free 280 chassis, all the hardware swaped with a little work , the conversion used stock front 240z rotors and calipers in the rear. My question is reqarding the stock master cylinder since it was originaly set up for drums in the rear, should I remove the check valve on the rear output ? I know that drums require more residual pressure than disk do and I have had experience with this on other vehicles , it caused the rears to lock up and not release since the check valve held the pressure , has anybody addressed this issue with Z cars ? I have searched FAQs and found nothing regarding the residual pressure valve , can anybody answer the question or steer me in the right direction ?
  2. Has anybody allready done a disk conversion with a modified stock M/C ? If I cant find someone who allready did it then I am just going to remove the M/C check valve on the rear output .
  3. It looks stronger that way anyway , I like the mock up on the crossmember great idea I will probably end up doing the same thing since I have a extra crossmember to work with
  4. I know it's not a new idea but is anybody running anything like these ? http://www.carbonfibergear.com/weds-sport-full-carbon-fiber-wheel/
  5. Nice work!those look pretty stout,I noticed the spacer is betweet the plate and block on the pass side and on the drivers side the plate is betwees the spacer and block ...any particular reason? clearance? I want[need] to get mounts that set the engine back , I'm not puting it back together with the mounts I found in it so if I cant trade for some I will have to buy them or make them
  6. Definitely want to see the suede dash , I like the flocking looks sweet , I have a 280z and 240z dash and since they are both cracked to hell I might have to try on one of them
  7. Here is a pic of the mounts , ever seen these before ? I have seen the engine half before but never seen the chassis half
  8. Would also go for motorsport V8 mounts,no crossmember or anything else "just the mounts".
  9. Double check to be sure the bolt fits through the hole before you even try ,the raised parts do face each other so that they will somewhat center themselves in the holes, I have used clamps to compress the link assembly enough to get the nut started or you could jack one of the control arms up enough to shove them together to get the nut on and then do the same on the other side , one side at a time so the sway bar holds still and wont just rotate in the mount bushings.
  10. Pulled all the rest of the suspension on the 240 , found it had Eibach springs all the way around and it had a billet aluminum diff mount , the rear struts also had some homemade camber plates . I'm not sure what brand but the sway bars are much thicker than stock and the rear sway bar is mounted to the verticle supports behind the mustash bar and not to the body ...its behind the axle facing forward ,the verticle supports are different in that they have a place to mount the sway bar brackets, I like the fact that it is supported on suspension parts instead of the body so its going in the 280 along with the matching front bar I allready swaped over. The eibach springs are for 240s so they are too short for 280 struts so if I dont swap the complete strut [havent decided yet] then I will be selling the Eibachs or looking to trade . Anybody have the measurements of a 240 strut ? so I can check to see if these have been cut down .
  11. Beermanpete thank you for the info , that is prety much what I was thinking to do to the valve , the thing that confused me was when I looked at the mc diagram it shows check valves on front and rear , I didnt think they used the check valves on disk unless the mc sits lower than the calipers [floor mount] anyway I was thinking swaping in the front valve from another mc with the rear valve of the mc I am using so the rear output would have a front disk valve , overkill ? did you remove the valve ?
  12. Sorry...I misunderstood you before , I thought you were selling just the mounts for $200 How much for just the spacers and set back plates ?
  13. I finished the passenger front line yesterday and I am still trying to figure out how I am going to connect the adjustable proportioning valve since it has 1/8 npt on the valve and I have read that the lines are 10mm-1.25 but I also read they are 10mm-1.0 , I cant seem to find a addaptor fitting to put it together so if I cant find them I will have to either see if I can find pre made lines with different fittings on each end or I may have to cut and flare , my only other option I can think of is to re do the line all the way to the back and swich to "AN" fittings at the end of the hard lines .anybody have any sugestions ? and can someone confirm the line size of 10mm-1.25 or 10mm-1.0 , I'm heading to napa to see if they have lines with different ends metric at one standard at the other , or if they by chance have the fittings , they make them in almost every other size . Still have not found a answer about the residual valve , I have a couple MCs so I might try to see if I can swap the rear check valve for a front check valve from another MC , drums need more residual pressure than disks so I would think they would have different pressure ratings , anyone have info ?
  14. Dat 260 , It's kinda hard to take you seriously , the JTR mounts cost less from JTR than what you are charging ,passenger set back plate $25 drivers set back plate $30 passenger spacer $20 drivers spacer $25 rack spacers $20 trany crossmember $65 . The mount parts themselves are only $100 from JTR unless you also want the rack spacer and trany crossmember then it bumps up to $185 which is still less than the $200 you are trying to charge for your home made parts .
  15. OOPS ....I accidently posted page twice , no delete option
  16. Pics of the mounts I pulled out ? you must mean the jtr mounts , I have the diagrams in the book , if I can get ahold of my wifes camera I will take pics
  17. Thanks for the link , lots of good info there . I didnt find the diagram there but I did look at one I have and it shows check valves on both outlets so it left me scratching my head , I have done alot of reading on Z rear disk conversions but cant find any reference to the residual pressure valve all the info I find is on calipers and rotors but not much on hydraulics. Did people just skip dealing with the residual valve ? without any problems ?
  18. f I dont come up with some cash or find someone who will trade for them I will probably make them , I pulled the 240 allmost completely apart and the motor mounts that were on it were made of two rubber blocks [each side] one rubber block to the engine and one rubber block to the frame with a bolt pinning them together , not sure what type they are but they mount in the scarab/hooker/nordskog position I installed the rear disks from the 240 onto the 280 today and I am trying to figure out if there is a residual pressure valve I should remove , and if I should change the proportioning valve for a adjustable one
  19. So I bought this rust bucket 240 that had a small block chevy and saginaw 4 speed and I took the rear disk brakes off of it [it had rear disk brakes]and I put them on a relatively straight and rust free 280 chassis , so my question is regarding plumbing changes from drum to disk , I figured I might remove the proportioning valve and conect the passenger front line together where it enters and exits the valve,then install a adjustable proportioning valve in the rear line in place of the original valve, and is there a residual pressure valve that should be removed ? I have done disk conversions before and always had to remove the residual pressure valve or the rear would lock up and not release , if there is one that I have to remove ........where is it ?
  20. I you mean the stock 280 console mine is in a few pieces , but thanks for the info now I know which one to look for
  21. I have a set from a 76 280 , havent pulled them so I'm not sure if studs are good but they are straight , $50 for the pair or I might be into trades , need a center console that will work with a t5 and need a set of jtr motor mounts [dont need trans mount or rack spacers] just the motor mount spacers and setback plates
  22. Also have 280 engine and fuel inj system and header for trade , and some doors and a hatch and a pair of headlight buckets
  23. I have a five speed from a 76 280Z if you are interested $150 I'm at tahoe , I might be into trades what do you have?
  24. My silver 240 thats really a 260 chassis allready has disk brakes!
  25. The set back plates and spacers are only $100 new thanks but I dont need the trany crossmember or the rack spacers , just the mount spacers and setback plates , probably just end up making them
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