rsicard
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Posts posted by rsicard
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these are on sale for 58 bucks.. I could not pass that up as everything I'm finding was 80 bucks or more for SS.. and Russel is a damn good brand!
Suggest replacing rear brake drums, shoes and wheel cylinders. Then adjust rear shoes. Bleed plenty of fluid through the hard lines. Replace all flexible lines with your Russell braided lines both front and rear. Replace booster and master cylinder. Replace front calipers also with GOOD pads. Then bleed RR, LR, RF and LF brakes and you should be all done with good pedal. Inspect steel hard line running from MC to rear "T" and rear hard lines for any deterioration. Replace as necessary and re-bleed the system.
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Well everything is wired up I believe. (Besides gauges).
I'm ready to fill everything with oil and try to start it. Still need to make a gas pedal bracket and an intake and MAF housing, but deal with that later
Does anyone have an experience starting a crate engine for the first time? I've heard I need to get a tool to prime the system. Then other people say to just fill it with oil and start it normally. I was worried for the time it's gonna run with no oil but a few other people have had no issues.
Just looking for opinions. Thanks again everyone.
The SAFEST way is to pre-lube the engine with an external pressurized oil tank. That way you are sure there is adequate lubrication.
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Was hoping to get the Datsun back together this week. Ran into a possible issue. I checked the rod bearings on this engine "not many miles at all on it" and the milky white of the bearing is worn to the metal underneath. Is this normal wear? I can't feel any wear even with my finger nail on the crank.
Looks like it may be a high or low spot on the bearing. Other than that, look OK.
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Howdy All - just came into a nice 1972 240Z that currently has a Chevy 350 in it. Conversion already done, but I'd like to drop a few more HP into it. I have two questions -1) I'm thinking a 383 with 450-500 hp would be a nice match. Since it is already setup for Chevy, i'll stay that route. What are some of the other options I should consider that are popular?2) Engine source. There are a TON of engine builders on the internet. I know that many of them use junk Chinese parts and it will probably grenade quickly. Are there any reputable chevy engine builders that folks on the forum have had good luck with?Thanks for the help!!
Depends on what your budget and goals are. Would not trust the cheaper engine builds. They will get by with cast pistons and cast crankshaft. Cheap. Use a GM 350 block. Depends on which engine block came in the car when you purchased it. Take that block or one of same vintage, bore .030 over and clearance for 3.75" stoke crankshaft. Install forged pistons, forged 6" connecting rods and can get by with cast steel 3.75" stroked crankshaft for a 383 cu in displacement. The cylinder head, camshaft and intake system will be the real key to power. The more attention to details, the higher the quality and performance.
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updated album of engine build with engine reassembled and valve/intake painted. Pretty happy how it turned out! Next is reassembly of the clutch then re-mated back with the transmission. This weekend I should be ready to put the engine/trans into the car.
I am almost done with the engine bay on clean up but still have a few areas of rust to clean up and get painted.
When purchasing a used engine, the running oil pressure should be checked. The other items to check would be a compression test and leakdown test. Once the cylinder heads are removed, best to have them cleaned, reseat the valves and leak test the cylinder head assemblies. As a minimum, the oil pump should be replaced to ensure good long lasting oil pressure. Then reassemble the engine and use a good synthetic oil and new quality oil filter.
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Steve:
Not all that familiar with responding to Email on this forum. Two things to try. First disconnect the fuel line at the output of the pump and connect flexible 3/8" long line directly to the fuel rail on the outside the car as a temporary trial basis. That should eliminate any fuel line restriction issues. If the fuel pressure still drops, likely it may be a voltage drop from the fuel pump relay to the pump itself. This can be verified by attaching another wire at the fuel pump for test purposes and extend the test wire to the drivers seat or wherever. Then get a voltmeter on that test wire and the other meter lead to a good frame ground. Then try the test over again to measure the voltage at the pump when the pressure dips. The voltage should stay within reasonable limits and not significant drop. If there is a drop in voltage, go over the pump source voltage wire connections to make certain they are good. Also make certain there is a good frame ground on the electrical negative side of the pump. Could be just a faulty ground. If so, bypass with heavy gauge wire to better frame ground. Give it a try and lets us know how you made out.
Rolly
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Try to find a 60 or 80 gallon 2 stage unit that delivers considerable volume. As long as you are just finishing the shop, FIRST arrange for shelving along the walls. The more the better. Made this mistake and not again. Make places to store parts and label what parts are contained within.
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HybridHydra:
Recommend further research concerning a roll cage. Looked at the Jegs roll cage. Once installed cannot be removed easily. It is the minimal type roll cage. I fabricated my own for a 240Z and made it removable. Same for the racing seats.
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Additionally, grounds should be on circuit(s) 450 Black with White tracer, 4 wires, and circuit 413 Tan, 1 wire.
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sstallings:
Found some wiring diagrams for 7730 ECU. There should be two Orange (Circuit 340 Battery Feed B+) wires that have +12 volts hot from the battery. There should be a pink/black (Circuit 439 Ignition Feed) wire from the ignition switch +12 volts when the ignition switch is ON. Look for these color wires as they should go to fuses and to the battery and Ignition switch.
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sstallings:
Go back to the wiring diagram for the 730 ECU and check that there is +12 volts on the proper power inputs of the ECU. The fuel pump should be powered through a relay. The relay should have +12 volts on one side of the relay coil. The other side of the coil should be tied to the ECU output that turns on the fuel pump relay. The high current normally open contacts should have one side wired to the fuse panel and the other (load side) should be wired to the fuel pump +12 volt input. The other pump connection should go to ground (12 volt return i.e. negative side of battery). Make sure GOOD grounds (returns) are being used or tie back to battery negative.
To you have a wiring diagram or hookup for the ECU? I will see if I can find one for the 730 ECU so that I know the hookups.
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sstallings:
What year is the TPI V8? This will have to be known before someone is advising you. Is there 12 volts at the distributor? Does the fuel pump run for approximately 2 second when trying to start the engine? Is there a 9th fuel injector for starting the engine? Both fuel and spark are needed to start the engine. The VATS can be disabled. What part number is the engine computer? All of these things need to be known.
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Consider going to an aftermarket throttle body self tuning fuel injection system that will use a dual plane intake manifold. Typically, a single plane is taller than a dual plane intake. Single plane is fine for port fuel injection, not so good for carb. An engine that uses a carb typically, with proper maintenance, does not last much beyond 100K miles because the carb washed down oil in cylinders promoting accelerated cylinder wear. The same is not true for fuel injection as it is more carefully metered than the carb. Something to consider.
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I really appreciate all the input, but those of you who know me know that this discussion is getting a bit over my head and is exceeding my level if commitment and the time I'm willing to devote to my Z. I don't know if this should be a different thread, or if I need to just do some googling on this related, and oft referred to subject: data logging. Where should I look to learn how data logging works and the systems that are available? How complicated and expensive is it to buy and install a data logging system? What data can be collected? I know there are systems that can allow a driver to collect data that can be re-examined to help you find errors in braking, turning and acceleration. I guess there is also mechanical performance data logging? Are there all-in-one systems that do it all, and how complicated are they to install? I hope you guys know that I've asked all my questions BEFORE having any problems myself. I'm still on engine number 1 in my Z and its running like a top! For some crazy reason, my truck has had 3 sets of bearings in 1000 miles, all bearings were wrecked either on the dyno or at steady cruise on the highway. Just got it back and for the moment it is fine with 60psi at idle cold, 45 psi at idle hot and 60 psi cruising down the highway. Most recent rebuild got align-bored (don't know if misalignment was found or if just for good measure), magna fluxed and re-cleaned, crank turned (I presume checked for straightness), reassembled with a new pump that was disassembled, de-burred and got 3 washers (thickness) put under the pressure relief spring (all according to the guy getting my money). So, I haven't actually wrecked an engine via abuse (yet).
Not to worry. AEM electronics and Innovate Motorsports both make data logging systems that incorporate lateral and longitudinal "G" sensors and analog to digital sensor converter/recorders. Personally, the AEM electronics appears to be the better of the two systems. It will record the data for playback on your computer. The next better step up is to have video and data recorded at the same time so that you get a visual picture along with the data and there are systems for that also. Just more money.
As for your truck, something is wrong about how the mechanic is putting the engine together. With very close attention to bearing quality and clearances (writing them down), there should be little if no problem. Close attention also needs to be paid to oiling galleys and oil pumps. After replacing engine bearings, the oil pump needs to be primed and the engine rotated while priming the oil pump such that it has proper lubrication upon first startup. Usually, a new Melling Oil Pump is installed as it is cheaper and of better quality. Cannot over-emphasize close attention to details. All crank and bearing saddles must be in alignment. Stunned to know that engine shops do not have straight alignment bars to put in place of the crankshaft to test for main bearing resistance to rotation versus torque to turn the tool. Crankshafts should undergo measurement with an computer automated Coordinate Measuring Machine (CMM) to make certain the main and rod journals are in their proper place. Biggest aspect is TEST don't GUESS.
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Uh, yeah, NO! Are you saying to go slower in a turn to pull less Gs and that is faster? Not going fast on any road course in a variety of cars I've driven. Why are the cars pulling the fastest lap time pulling more Gs in the corners? I'm all about slow in, fast out, but when you are doing over 100 mph going into Turn 1 at Sebring (a long, sweeping left hander), you can't really drive that way. I assume you are talking more about autocrossing and in a car that has good acceleration, as a low powered "momentum car" is all about how much speed (Gs) you can carry through corners.
Cary, your comment about a 2-3 second high G left hander is exactly what Turn 1 at Sebring is, so I better work on getting the scraper & windage tray in the LS6 before my first track day here in the Z! Don't want to blow the motor, which MANY Corvettes (stock) do on a fairly regular basis here. Good stuff to know.
Should have made it clearer. The largest radius used in a turn yields the lowest "G" for that turn. Speed can be kept at a maximum in the largest radius through a particular turn. Hope this clarifies it.
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NASCAR guys have a LOT of experience and they keep plenty of oil covering the valve springs to keep them cool and lasting till the end of the race. Their number ONE problem is valve spring life. I went to a Dart SHP block because it has priority oiling system. Also found a racing oil pan that holds 8 quarts of oil, has six trap doors, two kickouts, decel baffle and a crank oil scraper. Will look into restrictors for the two lifter oil galleries to limit oil to upper end. Would be nice to have plenty of oil in the valve covers with a slow supply and slower leakdown to keep the oil up there to cool the valve springs. Also have a pressurized oil reservoir and a way of logging oil pressure to make certain there is adequate oil pressure in the Hi-G turns. The lesser the amount of Gs in turns, the quicker you get through the turns.
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And rsicard, it's OK, I just don't think you understood what I was after, I should have been more clear.
I was guessing that what was wanted was easy clearance to remove the oil pan. Thought that the reason for removing the oil pan was to check the rod and main bearings. If that is the reason, then the crank should be checked for damage. If none, then mike the crank and order new main and rod bearings. Suggested the Cleavite coated bearings as these will take the momentary loss of oil pressure. Be sure to get the fat felpro "O" ring for the oil pickup so no pickup oil leak. Had also suggested going to baffled oil pan with kickouts. More oil volume, baffles to control slosh and crank scraper. Might want to replace the oil pump while at it. Just some suggestions.
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And I suppose the other mainshaft at questionable use and mileage wasn't? Anyone who has followed this 59 paged of build will fully get what I'm about to say... At some point IT'S ALL WEAK LINKS.
The guys at thegearbox.org use this same setup in their racecars. In a 2500# car, running a pump and three ports for fluid re circulation in a roadrace application if I break this one, then I'll build another with the viper bits. But the cost would have been double and based on what I've been reading and what others have experienced I doubt it will be an issue for me.
Where are the (3) three ports on the T-56. One may be the drain plug, two may be the fill plug and don't know where the third may be. I also have the T-56 and would be interested in where the three ports are located on the T-56. Thanks.
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Got the T56 completely stripped down today and parts in the parts washer. The new Mainshaft will require new bearings, but everything else is going together very well. I bought new steel blockers, carbon syncros, and other bits. The 5th and 6th cluster are now installed on the counter shaft. 3rd gear is installed now along with the new blocker.
Hope to get those parts in and get it all back together asap. Getting close to having the box back together.
Concerning the T-56, the main shaft will now be the weak link in the drivetrain.
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So I missed the brake lines and T/Cs. Big deal. Just wonder how long he will live with the oiling problem. If fixed once and for all, don't need to keep removing the oil pan. Add oil pressure data recording to see if the problem is taken care of the first time in the Hi-G maneuvers.
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Move the engine mounts further aft. Use Bad Dog frame rail reinforcement plates under the new engine mounts. Then three bolts on each shock tower, disconnect steering universal at the steering box and then 2 bolts on either side of the existing cross-member and the whole thing should come down. If installing a lift in the garage, need some type of jack to lower the complete front suspension assembly. Then access to the oil pan is easy. Get ready for possible scuffed up rod and main bearings. Cleavite sells coated main and rod bearings which are a good idea for short loss of oil pressure. Then get baffled oil pan and pressurized oil reserve bottle. That may stop momentary loss of oil pressure.
The same thing can be done with floor jack and jack stands. First the steering universal, then the shock tower nuts then the cross-member bolts. Roll the front suspension away and access the engine pan bolts.
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Move the engine mounts further aft. Use Bad Dog frame rail reinforcement plates under the new engine mounts. Then three bolts on each shock tower, disconnect steering universal at the steering box and then 2 bolts on either side of the existing cross-member and the whole thing should come down. If installing a lift in the garage, need some type of jack to lower the complete front suspension assembly. Then access to the oil pan is easy. Get ready for possible scuffed up rod and main bearings. Cleavite sells coated main and rod bearings which are a good idea for short loss of oil pressure. Then get baffled oil pan and pressurized oil reserve bottle. That may stop momentary loss of oil pressure.
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I dunno. I'm just planning my next Z car in my head and it will be a big horsepower V8 car either boosted or NO2, and I'm imagining the possibility of having to do track-side bottom end repairs. I would like to do a Drag Week and a Bonneville Speed Week, and Im just thinking about improving serviceability in the pits for repairing or inspecting things that go boom. So far, I have never had a significant powertrain failure cause I'm very much a novice, and have kept power levels low. But the engine in my truck will have come out of the chassis twice for main bearings before achieving a period of reliability (we will see). Plus, Im having a garage but for a lift, so I'm imaging being able to do more repairs from under the car. Like the oil pan baffle I will be doing this winter. Just idle brain storming and imagining putting some holes in pistons. I guess no one has done it, or sees a need. That's cool. I'm kinda thinking I will use the Hawks 3rd Gen mounts next time, so that will make the frame rail plan a reality. Maybe I will replace the center section of the cross member with a removeable tubing section of some kind. I know the steering rack is also under the pan, but only just a little. Will retain stock style front suspension. We'll see. Thanks for the reality check.
To prevent putting holes in the top of the pistons, the bottom end should be all forged components with ceramic coated piston tops. Also a good data acquisition engine computer like AEM or Electromotive to record temperature and pressure parameters in order to spot possible damage.
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I bought the car with the rebuilt LT1 engine so why not keep it. I don't want to sell it, add money to get a used LSx. Today I removed the drive train and de-greased the engine bay to prep for paint. Also removed all the lights, exterior parts. Going to install some fiber glass ZG fender flares to clear the 17x9.5/9 Rota RB wheels tomorrow.
Also need to start looking for a T56. I think I'm looking for one that came out of a Camaro with an LT1.
Good your going to keep the LT-1 engine. It can be rebuilt and made as strong as a LSx engine. If the LT-1 already has the ECU computer wired in, your in good shape. A good T-56 will cost between $2500.00 - $3000.00. Been there, done that. Will require flywheel, clutch pressure plate, clutch plate, bearing for rear of crankshaft and perhaps Quicktime 9023 bellhousing/scattershieid. Best start off with new T-56 as it is the least hassel. Flywheel must be counter-weighted for external balance. Get a good clutch pressure plate and clutch plate. Will require clutch pedal, master and slave cylinders, Been there, done that.
Mig welding help
in Fabrication / Welding
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Don't be stingy with shielding gas. Keep torch close to work with small wire stick-out. Use proper amperage for material thickness. The you will hear bacon frying when welding. For better welds, lean heel of hand holding torch to near area of welding on work, to keep steady distance of torch to work. Use glove to shield hand holding torch from heat and sparks. A steady torch hand will yield better welds and just rotate the wrist to control torch. Swing torch in small circles, making cursive "e"s to spread out the weld pattern.