rsicard
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Posts posted by rsicard
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Gentlemen:
I did not mean to be "Backbiting" in my comments. If it came across that way please accept my apologies. VERY interested in testing results with a manometer, especially behind the front tires. Would like to open up the inner fender at the rear of the engine compartment (both sides) and mount a centrifugal fans to exhaust the air in the engine compartment. Would also like to fab a tunnel with small opening at grille to large one at the radiator to restrict the amount of air going through the radiator such that there is enough to cool the radiator adequately and then exhaust out the inner fenders. Also would be closing off all radiator support holes and seal above the radiator support to the hood so the only air getting in is from the tunnel forward opening. Comments Please.
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So Im having a small issue. There is a Reverse Lockout Solenoid. It makes it a royal pain to shift into Reverse! Like major pain!
My problem is that I have no idea how it functions. Im going to do some testing and see where that gets me. Research tells me it locks Reverse out over 3mph. So I will apply and remove power and see if what happens I suppose. I dont know if powering it up will un-lock it or lock it out. Then there is the mystery of how I should wire it up. I was thinking of tying it into the brake circuit with a relay, but that could be a pain as I dont always use the brake when shifting into reverse. There isnt anything else I can come up with that would allow me to keep though. And if I remove it there is nothing to protect Reverse from an accidental grinding.
Then I realize there is a second solenoid on the transmission... I have no idea what its purpose is.
You guys got any thoughts on this?
Without power on the Reverse Lockout Solenoid, you should be able to shift directly into Reverse. My LT-1 T56 does this just fine without connections to the solenoid.
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Socorob:
That forward mount need to be extended to the rear mounting points such that it is MUCH stronger. The bolts in the front of the diff are in tension. The mount should have been made such that the front fabbed mount is snubbing or on top of the two diff front mounts along with fabbed mount extended aft to rear mounting points. Then it would be MUCH stronger.
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ihiryu:
I am in need of one Speedhut Quad gauge (Standard American) 3 3/8 inch in diameter for my 1971 Datsun 240Z with SBC engine. Do you wait until there are several folks that want to order gauges from you such that a sufficient quantity is order by yourself at one time? Or can you order one at a time? Please advise and quote your price on this item. As far as payment is concerned, do you want full payment up front to yourself prior to ordering the gauge? Please advise. Thanks.
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Respectfully, no you don't.
I have several local friends that have hydraulic roller LS engines that turn 8200 rpm every weekend at the strip. My last combo saw 7000 every time I drove it, zero issues. The above mentioned engines were NA and Nitrous, so a fair amount of cylinder pressure.
What springs are you using? The Brian Tooley racing springs seem to be about the best thing on the market as far as a stock- replacement go.
Mike, what was your last combo? Gen I or Gen III? V8dats has a good suggestion to the problem about exhaust restriction. Some of the discussed items may be the fault.
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Sure sounds like valve float. Likely are using hydraulic roller lifters and weak springs. The timing backing off from 21 to 15 degrees sounds like too much roll back. Sounds like a combination of the two. If you want to spin it beyond 6500 RPM will need to go to solid roller lifter and camshaft.
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Just wondering if you have the proper pressure and clutch plate. The T56 behind the SBC Gen 1 engine must have the specific LT-1 pressure and clutch plate that is a pull type pressure plate. Additionally, the flywheel is also specific to the T56 application. What year SBC engine is installed? Which flywheel is being used? Which pressure and clutch plate are being used? Need more data to advise.
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A performance rebuild of a 200R4 or 4L60E are good choices. As far as the engine is concerned, either construct one from scratch or buy a good rebuilt short block. I prefer the built it from scratch. That way you can put all the GOOD parts in it using a Vortec 1 piece rear main seal block from Summit Racing for $700.00 (383 stroker block) that has most of the machining already done. Purchase the parts yourself and have a local GOOD machine shop due the assembly of the short block. Get an estimate from several machine shops for assembly and have them write up the procedure for your review. Purchase SRP 1.125 compression height flat top Prof pistons, Scat forged stroker Crank, Scat 6 inch forged stroker Rods ordered as a balance assembly from Scat. Have the block zero deck machined. Purchase your an oil pan according to how the vehicle will be used. Purchase a Melling Oil Pump. Purchase ARP Main Studs and Oil Pump drive.
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I pulled and put my diff back in with the CVs attached, I thought it was gonna kill me. I put it on my lap and then slid under the car and did some pelvic thrusts until I got it started in the moustach bar. I was sore for days!
That can be done with a floor jack. Been there, done that.
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The next step in my process was to get the steering figured out. I searched every post and sticky I could find related to power steering. For a variety of reasons I was uncomfortable modifying the front cross member and motor mount as many people seem to do. It may be fine but not my cup of tea. I sourced a rack and double U-joint from a Subaru Legacy and started playing around with it. My solution seems to work. The pictures should explain everything. The shaft support is made from a piece of aluminum buss bar that was collecting dust. The bearing is a Chevrolet pilot bushing. I still need to sort out hoses and pin the Datsun shaft to the U-joint, but the hard part seems to be under control
Very ingenious way of fitting the Subaru Power Steering Rack! Never thought about this method. Have the rack and have not used it as yet. Now there is a clearance issue from the engine damper to the front cross member. Need to resolve that if using the Sabaru Rack.
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Ryan:
I don't think there are better flowing cylinder heads than the AFR's. Understand rerouting the steering shaft and using the CC178 headers. I have been thinking about making my own headers by purchasing header flanges a kit of 2 inch elbows. I will fab the headers much like the rams horn headers yet pay close attention to very good exhuast flow maximum area into the 3 inch collector flange. Then into 3 inch header pipe to two bullet type mufflers to knock of the higher frequencies in the exhaust sound. Then back to a "Y" and single pipe to the rear muffler.
Sure would be nice to see what you come up with in PICTURES!
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Hey gang,
I'm a newbie here...
I have a 1977 280Z and I'm looking to do a swap.
I'm not much of a mechanic, so I'm looking for someone in the central Ohio area that could help me out... preferably someone with a shop and some credentials.
I'm thinking of getting a LT1/t56 setup... I saw one on CL that looked pretty decent. Thoughts/suggestions?
Thanks!
-phil-
Could be purchasing someones problems. Suggest buying parts and have local engine machine shop put together stroker '96-'99 Small Block Chev. Else, purchase crate engine. Look on Craigslist or Ebay for T-56 transmission. I prefer to build engine from well chosen parts which DOES NOT happen with crate engines.
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JohnC:
Thanks much for the link. In retrospect after purchasing an aluminum radiator with integral auxiliary trans cooler, should have paid more attention to cooling engine oil. The input and output fitting on my radiator are likely TOO small for good engine oil flow. Have you used niagarathrem engine oil heat exhangers that are embedded with a radiator? GM has used this in heavier duty applications. It would seem that engine oil and trans fluid temperatures would rise along with coolant temp such that there is more uniform temperatures across these assemblies. Your comments please. Thanks again.
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Two words: Catch Can. Either that or bad valve seals. WIth the mileage on your engine, I'd say you're just pushing oil back through the intake (stock PCV system is a joke).
I used to have TONS of oil in my intake. Since I switched to the CC, not a drop. Couldn't be happier.
Most likely Intake Valve Seals when burning oil lifting off the throttle generate Very High vacuum through leaky valve seals.
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Phil:
Purchase the T-56 transmission, NOT the LT-1. Purchase a crate 383 stroker Small Block Chevrolet engine. Then proceed from there.
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I am wiring up a 1995 Honda Accord wiper motor and am thinking about using a 3-position switch instead of the combo switch. I have a quick question regarding wiring up the relay to use the park feature. I believe I should I be able to follow the attached wiring diagram without using the delay box. Is this correct?
Thanks,
Bo
I used a 1994 Honda Accord wiper motor. Took it apart to find out EXACTLY how it works. Found all that it took was to add one 3 amp diode to the wiring and it works fine with a painless wiring rotary wiper switch. Before disassembly, the wiper mechanism took considerable effort to move the wipers. Found that after disassembling the wiper arms etc., that the wiper pivot shafts were rusted. Cleaned up the rust and lubed the pivot shafts. Reassembled and found it took a lot less effort to move the wipers. Therefore, clean up and lube the pivot shafts FIRST. Than go after the wiper motor.
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Purchase and read book authored by David Vizard. Especially articles on squish and quench and space between the piston tops and cylinder heads. For a solid lifter cam use plenty of ZDDP additive in the oil. Buy two sets of valve springs, one weaker set for break-in, the other for after cam/lifter break-in. Have the crankshaft thoroughly checked. Line hone the main bearing bores and install ARP studs. Also use ARP studs for the cylinder heads. Get the block near zero-decked. Good squish and quench will fight off pre-ignition and allow lower octane gasoline. Pay attention to David Vizards recommendations. He has a wealth of experience. He does something and then TESTS to see what the results are.
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Don't cheap out on the cylinder heads. Get the AFR-195 CNC'd cylinder heads. They will have good velocity and perform better than all others. Go to KMJ to get the 7 quart oil pan with baffles. They have one with 7 inch depth. Recommend SRP professional pistons of lighter weight and longer connecting rods yielding less reciprocating weight and internal balance the crank, rods and pistons.
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Switch to a coolant/oil heat exchanger. I did that using a Niagra unit and eliminated the air flow issue.
Johnc:
Where does a person purchase the Niagra coolant/oil heat exchanger? Pictures? Description?
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While measuring the current drain, disconnect circuits connected to the fuses. Disconnecting one will yield zero current drain. That is the culprit.
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Yes I have used the 3 3/8 inch Speedo from Speedhut. Machined a round flat plate to fit within the original guage rear metal housing. Then machined a round hole within the flat plate to mount the 3 3/8 inch speedo. Then the round flat plate is tack welded within the rear metal housing as close as possible to the large front opening behind the 4 indents on the original metal housing. Machined two plates the same. Have yet to order the other 3 3/8 inch Speedhut 4 in 1 gauge for Fuel Qty, Oil Press, Water Temp, and Volts. Tach will be mounted separately. Will put multiple temp sensors (LH, RH Cyl Hd Intake Manifold etc.) in through rotary selector switch to Water Temp Gauge. May do the same with the Oil Press gauge.
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If the painless harness does not require an input from electronic speedo generator, then just bag and tie back any wiring for the 700R4. The ECM/PCM could care less.
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The real potential of the 396 cu in will not come out with solid flat tappets. There will be valve float or excessive cam wear. Solid Roller Lifters and camshaft will yield less friction and can use more aggressive camshafts. Will also allow stiffer springs allowing more upper RPM thus more area under the curve. HP and TQ cost MONEY.
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Recommendation to go to solid roller lifters is very good. Go with CompCams EDM machined in oiling holes in the solid lifters. Then a more aggressive camshaft may be used. This would be a good complement to the AFR-210s and 396 short block. Don't need TOO wild a camshaft. Something with the best amount of area under the HP and TQ curves. Pay close attention to the valve springs used.
hood vents: ideas...
in Windtunnel Test Results and Analysis
Posted
Jon:
Really appreciate all the thinking and comments. Would like to NOT have to put in rear hoot vents or vents on top of the front fenders. Still really interested in manometer tests behind the front tires to see if it is a high pressure area which would force me to put centrifugal blower on the inner fender openings and extend the blower exhaust down underneath the car. Also thinking about extending a splitter aft at the bottom of an air dam such as to keep higher pressure air from going back into the engine compartment. The opening of the tunnel to the radiator needs to be enough to cool the radiator versus such a large original grille opening, large holes in core support and opening above core support with respect to hood. Still need to consider ram air openings for engine air intake and brake cooling ducts.