GAZRNR

The T56 uses a completly diffferent style clutch..puller. The clutch fork sits on a dowel in the bellhousing and is held in place by a clip the fork. The fork fits in a collar on the throw out bearing/pressure plate and must be fully disengaged from the throw out bearing before you can pull the trans. If you got it 2-3 inches out but are stuck it sounds like the fork may be your problem. Make sure you don't damage the clip on the fork or you will have trouble with the reassembly.

I have the suspension tech springs on my 78. Tokio Ilumina struts, fronts on setting 3 and rears on 4. You will find that the front springs seem to be the correct rate but the rears are much to soft. Your car will bottom out way to easy at crusing speeds on the highway. I plan on removing them and going with either a stiffer rear spring or coil overs at some point. I have not driven the car with the V8/T56 conversion yet so I don't know how the handling will be affected by the addtional weight. My guess is that the bottoming out will be worse. Try contacting suspension tech to see what the rate is for the rears and see if you can get them to swap out for a stiffer rate spring in the rear or sell you a set of just rears. If you find out what the rate is please let me know. Also, this springs are much shorter and will not make contact with the top perch when fully extended. I used some large washers to pushe the top perch low enough to make contact with the spring when fully extended. Drove the care for 2 years like that with no problems...good luck if you go this route. Rusty

I went with the JTR kit on my car. If I was starting over again I would buy the JTR manual, use the JTR radiator & lower rad mount but use the MSA engine and trans brackets. I would also use a modified TH200R4 trans in place of the T56 I am using. The whole conversion would be easier and less expensive. Just my .02

I went the JSK wilwood fronts & 240sx rear route. The rear lines came in my kit from Modern Motorsport - not yet finished on that installation yet. Called wilwood tech support for some help with the front brake hoses. They recommened Orme Brothers Tel: 818-885-1414. Orme made me the front hoses with my specifications on ends & length and shipped them same day. $35 per side seemed a little high but when it comes to safety there is not room for guess work.

Mine is the same way, a biger u-joint on the front and a 1310 on the rear. Bring it to an automotive driveshaft shop, know the correct length of the driveshaft you need and they will get the JTR flange installed properly. I am using a T56 in the JTR set back position. My driveshaft is 19 1/8 long center to center and fits perfect. Hope this helps.

Yes, That is what I have in my Z

The PN for thde Wilwood NDL calipers from Behrent's are: WIL120-4952 The PN for the rotory proportioning valve is: WIL260-2220 The PN for the right side rotor is: WIL160-2894 The PN for the left side rotor is : WIL160-2895 If you want to use your metric brake lines you will need 2 adaptors -3AN/female 10mm x 1.00. I got these from pegasus auto racing PN: 3265 hope this helps

Hey, I got those same tires this week too but in the 225/45 - 17 size. Had them mounted & balanced yesterday. Need longer wheel studs before I can mount up my new wheels & tires.

Did you try mounting it with with indent facing up instead of down?

Jumping on this on late as I have been sourcing my front brake parts - here is what I spent and a few thoughts for those conisdering this setup. JSK Hat Kit $241.95 - thru ebay auction Summit $ 93.90 wilwood 32 vane curved rotors Summit $ 60.20 wilwood "Q" compound street pads Behrent's $249.50 wilwood NDL calipers Behrent's $ 35.99 wilwood proportioning valve Pegasaus $ 21.91 -AN3 male to metric female fittings for caliper Total for kit $703.45 and this includes shipping for all parts Brake Kit is not yet installed but a few observations: 1) Juan at JSK Innovations is a 1st rate business man and very good to work with. His hat kit is a great value, 2) if I were sourcing the parts again I would get the rotors from Behrent's Performance in addition to the calipers & proportining valve and saved money on the rotors and shipping...maybe knock $20 off the total. They probally could have sold me the pads too but I ordered late at night and thought about making the phone call in the morning!

I am in the process of painting my 280Z the color of the 2003 350Z Daytona Blue. It has a sliver & pearl flake in the base coat and looks great once you get the clearcoat applied. This was my 1st time spraying automotive paint and so far has come out much better than expected. I have the engine bay done, hope to spary the under hood parts and reassemble that later this month. I got the paint & misc products from my local Shewrin-Williams automotive paint store. They had all the product codes and I am very pleased with how the process went. Make sure you have an approved fresh air system or the cyanide in the paint will mess you up! Check out my photo gallery for a couple of pics I posted. My vote is Daytona Blue!

Is that a shifter for a mustang application? Who makes it? I am using a T56 and would like a shifter angled back like this one. Thanks Rusty

Using the MSD ignition box with a stock tach you will need their tach adapter. it's about $50 from Summit Racing.

Had a friend with a 78Z that had a similar problem. After replacing the starter he changed the battery cables and the problem was solved. The cables looked fine but when we cut one open it was all green corrosion on the inside.

Thanks to all that helped me diagnose the probelm. I pulled the motor/trans and found that I had all the correct parts and the fork was engaging properly. The spring clip that holds the fork on the pivet point was stretched and would not hold the fork in proper alignment. I rebent the clip and will reinstall the trans later...all should go well. Note: anyone using AOL or Compuserve as your ISP, I could not post and tried using Microsoft internet explorer and I can post. good luck Rusty

I recieved my parts form JSK and am very please. My rotors on on back order from Summit and I have not yet selected a caliper. Everything looks great and my one concern is with making or buying a line from the caliper to the connet the metric brake system.

I'm around $10,500 still needing to do the exhaust & wiring.

I am using the radiator that JTR recommends with their lower mount and chevy top mount for a chevelle. It fits great. I ran the heater core hoses from the water puump returning through the intake.

Help! Is there a trick to get the T56 clutch fork back in palce? The spring loaded clip that holds it in place my challenge. Is there a special tool needed to compress the clip while silding clutch fork in place? Thanks

Help!!!! Anyone who has installed a T56, centerforce flywheel and RAM clutch this question is for you. I got the T56 mated to the engine and had some fun lining up the fork in the pressure plate slot and the fork on the pivot point. The fork is in the slot on the presure plate and on the pivot point but not centered or even close to where the slave cylinder rod lines up. It is almost against the case and there appears to be no way to slide the fork in further as I am at the limit on the pivot point. As usual in a case like this there is limited sight access to see what is happening inside and with the engine in the car doesn't help. Any thoughts as to what the fix is? Thanks,

Thanks for all the advise & suggestions. I had a few trial & errors and found that if I wrapped the line 2 times with 1/2 in masking tape and used an air powered cut off tool I got a usable end for the AN fittings. I now have a new appreciation for ayone whose has used steel braided lines & AN fittings.

I'm plumbing the fuel system on my sbc jtr conversion and ran into a wall on how to work with getting the AN fittings on the steel braided line. The frayed ends on the hose are endless...I tried tape, a worm clamp, griinding off the frayed ends only to get MORE sharp points to stick in my hands. It almost looks like you need a mini ring compressor to to the install the collars on the line. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

I set my 350/ t56 in the jtr set back position yesterday. I using an Edelbrock RPM Airgap and Edelbrock Performer carb with their small triangular foam aircleaner. The hood is not on but it looks like id is 3/4 to 1 inch taller than the hood clearance. before I look for options I am putting the hood back on for a confirmation.

most people over carb thinking bigger must be better. Your engine may need a 750 but you might be surprise if you do the calculation and find that a 600 would be a better choice. This swayed me to a 600 froma 750.

I'm using a tilton clutch MC with 7/8 bore in my T56 setup. I am using a an3 ss hose with straight ends and 1 an3 90degree elbow off the MC and 1 an3 90 degree elbow off the slave cylinder. Got a 36in line from PerformanceBodies.com and the fittings from summit racing.