alrighty

I have to say this because no one has mentioned it,you will hit a brick wall at around 250hp with the factory AFM(not to mention binding).If you are wanting around 300hp the 84-85 300zx(turbo) wiring harness and MAF is the only way to go. Drive-ability and throttle response is 200% better, not to mention easier to find parts for.

Hey Phantom its all about condensor size and air flow.The reason the early 90's cars had such terrible a/c was due to the switch to r-134a with no condensor change(from r-12).They where trying to use up existing stock of condensers which caused piss poor cooling due to about 20% decrease in efficiency due to the new mandated r-134a.Once manufactures got rid rid of existing stock of condensers and put on properly sized(efficient) condensers the problem went away mostly.Hope this helps,I believe In oversize(efficient) condensers for this reason.That's my two cents hope it helps.

It works just like any other reverse lockout prior to gm re-engineering the wheel for really no apparent reason.I used the stock internals minus the solenoid.went to the local hardware store and found the appropriate spring for the right tension,and walla idiot and bullet proof.I am in the process of machining 20 of these if interested.Dont forget that the factory solenoid can actually cause you to have to put a substantial dent in your tunnel for it to fit.This is 3/4" shorter and requires no dent.

Ever thought about making a mechanical reverse lockout? http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110398-t-56-mechanical-reverse-lock-out/ Was actually not too hard to do and is bullet proof.

What are you guys using for the felt that runs along the window(on door panel)?are you just re-using the old ones?

Sorry,Litman just re-read your post and i completely screwed the pooch.I ran all hoses in front of radiator support.Then ran suction and discharge underneath compressor utilizing 180 degree fittings(never liked running lines over the top of compressor).This gives a much cleaner look I think.

Hey Litman,none of the hoses(low or high side)run through the engine bay.Execpt for the 10" or so at the radiator support area.

Hey Evil,yes mini gen2.Also running PWM for blower speed.

Here's How I routed this 240's A/C and heater hoses.

Yes, the stock system does work.Many people though have found it a pain to hook up.This just eliminates the electronic hassle.In this setup I'm building this was the easiest choice.Not to mention this machined part eliminates the 1/2" to 3/4" dent you have to put in the(240z) tunnel.I would only recommend this to someone who is just on the verge of doing an ls swap with a t-56.I am also new to LS1/T56 swap and could not believe no one offered a mechanical lockout considering how easy it is to make.Can't wait to get this beast on the road.HAPPY NEW YEAR

Sorry for the long pause.Time of the year,I guess.Here is a picture of the actual piece I used for this build.My plan since I just received a lathe for christmas, is to manufacture this whole piece myself without a weld(easy on my tig skills).Should be about a month before I'm ready to start.Is anybody in these forums interested in something like this?I have plenty of interest on other froums but feel zcar people deserve the first shot.Should run about 140-150$ a piece.

Running a sentra booster with strange master cylinder(120$).I'll let you know here in the next few days how it brakes.LS1 with T56 and AZC (4 piston)brakes front and rear is what we are running.

I basically used the guts of the factory lockout and machined a new housing deleting the solenoid.Hardest part was finding the right spring tension.

Trying to gauge if there would be any interest .Just finishing up a ls1/t56 install and made one for this build.Works perfect and can not believe no one offers these (after market).Any interest?

does anyone happen to have dimensions for a z32 or 240sx rear bearing assembly?I've searched to no avail.