Matt K

It's best to pick up the phone & call them...both have taken awhile to respond via email, pretty busy guys.

No one else is going to...not enough demand. Most 280ZX owners don't shell out the cash needed to be able to support a healthy aftermarket...and face it, they are not going to be many on the road in a few years, due to time, neglect, etc. It's just not as popular of a car as a first gen-Z...even though it IS a better car, overall. I have seen a few rough Kaminari cars come up for sale in the past few years...mostly neglected & sitting around for awhile. You may be able to get one cheaply that way & take two cars to make one. It kills me too...seeing a nice part/mod/kit that I'd like, only to either not be able to afford it, or get it due to rarity. If you want it, you know where to get it...just going to be spending a lot of time & labor to get it right.

Look into soda blasting for your stripping, rather than media blasting. Our cars are pretty thin, and certain types of media will deform & warp the metal you're trying to strip. Also, it's an easy cleanup, since it's just baking soda. There are other options than MSA, btw... http://www.datsunzparts.ca/NewParts/summary.htm Scroll down http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/240z.html http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt93256/Customized_240z_280z_Parts_

Not trying to be too sarcastic, but this IS Hybridz, why not put in a more modern alternative, such as an RB25 or 1JZ? It might wind up costing about the same, in your case, easier to source, with better technology & more power. I don't know about the legality in your area though...Plenty of 1JZ's have made more than 300 rwhp with only a downpipe, intake & free flowing exhaust as mods...and the response is incredible!

Not a Z...but here are 255-40-18's on 10.5" wide rears. 235-40-18 on 9.5" fronts.

See, you support my opinion! No worries either way. I absolutely hate the KA, and won't make any qualms about it. Tiny ring lands that don't hold up to boost, crappy distributor setup, lack of tuning options unless you want to spend big on a standalone. I've got my own experience & reasons for it, going back 10 years. I can't stand when people blast the SR for "having no torque"...99% of the time, they have zero experience with one. Since you want some good data, here's a local "built" KADE+T (total rebuild .20 over, 740cc injector nismo, jim wolf ecu, forged everything. 8.9:1 ratio, edt mani, 38mm wastgate, turbosmart, blow off valve, ebay piping port polish, stainless steel valves, 255 wlbo fp, 52 mm garrett turbo, 3 inch downpipe with catback) For comparison, here's a STOCK SR, with FMIC, 3" exhaust with converter, Walbro 255, SAFC tweaked to 12 psi. The built KA, with a bigger turbo, more cubic inches, etc. made only 25 hp & 21 ft lbs more than a stock S13 redtop with stock turbo, injectors, etc. I can throw up a crapload more of these to show my point, which is the SR just makes more sense. By the time you've actually done enough work to make the KA a "better" choice, you've spent more to do so. 90% of the 240sx guys stay with the KA in order to save money, but in order to do it right, pretty much everything needs to be replaced internally, and you're going to need to spend some coin on all the supporting equipment (turbo, manifold, fuel system, ecu, etc). A completely stock SR can be tweaked to reliably support the same as this built KA shown above. We all have our own opinions, based on our experiences. This is mine, sorry to thread jack... Keep up the good work, izgoten!

KA=garbage. Was not meant to be boosted, doesn't last even when built properly.

Try taking off the TPS, coolant temp, & AFM connectors, clean them, grease with dielectric grease...

They'll give you book value...Minus your deductible. FYI, Comprehensive coverage is the CHEAPEST of all. You save maybe $10-20 every 6 months by having your deductible so high. I keep a $0 deductible on my Comprehensive for all my cars, and $150 collision. The difference for me was an increase of only $60 every 6 months over $500 deductible comprehensive & $1000 collision. Comprehensive will cover fire, theft, vandalism, acts of God, windshields, etc.

Maybe if he wanted bad bumpsteer & to blow his shocks...unfortunately, it takes adjustable coilovers to achieve what you'd like visually.

Sounds like TPS or AFM is dirty or wet inside.

The best? Arizona Z car or Beta Motorsports custom coilovers...

I paid $300 for my last L28E...pulled it myself from a running '78 with 70K on the car. The owner wanted to convert his Z to an electric car...I told him "nothing says I love the environment more than filling your car up with 1,000lbs of hazmat..." and dropped that engine into my '73 240Z.

LOL! This made me laugh!

My '78 came with a larger Weber throttle body, Mallory Igition, & CAI. I added an MSA ceramic coated header, 2 1/2" MSA exhaust system (modified with a resonator & different bullet style muffler). It IS quite a bit quicker after the header & exhaust than prior, however I spent a lot of time tweaking the setup & ensuring everything was working properly. The biggest holdback on a 280z with EFI is the archaic EFI system, not only the head, cam, & compression ratio. You can drop a built L-series engine in, but will be hamstrung by the small injectors, lack of adjustability, restrictive AFM, and stne age electronics. Swapping to something like a megasquirt is money well spent. Obviously a turbo engine will make more power, but it too is handicapped by the same issues in stock form. If you want to get serious with it, I'd get a megasquirt setup & start tuning. You can swap in a turbo motor later on (if you'd like) and then make even more power...the good part is that you've already got experience with tuning the megasquirt & won't be trying to solve two issues at the same time (engine swap & adding the standalone)...plus if you blow the old N/A motor, it gives you an excuse to upgrade! My 2 cents... I also agree, with most of the info above. Get an 81-83 5-speed & 3.90 diff from an N/A, save up for coilovers (it's worth every penny), and get some real size wheels & tires underneath it for traction & handling. You can add an OBX LSD unit (properly installed) and have even better handling & traction for not too much money.