Bob_H
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Posts posted by Bob_H
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Motorex is done' date=' the owner got busted for all kinds of nasty things.
Chris[/quote']
Really? Didn't know that. Does that mean there is no avenue for anyone who wants to import a Skyline or can they piggyback on their previous work?
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I missed this thread and posted in your other.
I agree with Dave - as he and I had the same car,(mine was sliver and tracked extensively).
-Diff - great mod, really shows what the S54 can do. However, with the 5 speed, (vs. the 6 speed in the M3), the raise in freeway rpm of approx 2-500 rpm can be a bigger issue, (depending on ratio - lots of threads about this).
-Software - Sharking it appears to be the best for the S54 Z3Ms. I shark'd my 00's and was happy. Jim Conforti is the name to look for if you haven't heard of shark'ing before. JC's software I believe raises the rev limit to 7800, (M3 stock is just under 8000, he felt it wasn't needed).
-Brakes - nothing short of phenomenal with pads and good fluid. With race rubber, your limiting factor will be front tire size,(usually 235mm max). As you rear subframe bushings get worn, (lots of hard driving will do that), they will allow the entire rear to pull around as you brake, (if you aren't in a straight line, it loads up one tire more than the other, it pulls harder, moves the subframe, which changes the loading and contact patch, etc..) this contributes to the rear end wiggle under braking. Once I changed my subframe bushings out, much more stable braking, (relatively speaking, it is a trialing arm setup).
-Suspension - John's 10/10th's comment - true to an extent. The car will move around a lot on you, but it is forgiving - it is not like an older 911 as some might compare it to. You can't get away with murder like a E36 M3, but you can get away with a lot, and it rewards good driving like few other cars.
As I said in the other post, if you get serious about suspension upgrades, let me know, I tried just about every possible combination on that car and depending on your goals, I can at least point you in the right direction. I for one don't agree with lowering the car for the reasons Dave stated. I went with taller springs/higher ride height adjustment and was very happy for a number of reasons. I replaced my subframe bushings,(before you could find ones for the Z3, I had to get an older E30 M3 set and adapt them). The KMAC bushings work fine, but are difficult to adjust w/o affecting other settings, (can fix toe, but will change other parameters - and a few, very few that is, have had issues with them moving after setting them).
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I agree with Matt. PITA to cut.
I removed the pair of rotors in the stock oil pump.
Gotten a Moroso tank' date=' but I like the LS7 tank found in the link below.
The World's Baddest Pontiac Solstice (cont.)
part# of LS7 dry-sump components
oil tank /12603281
Are you dry sumping yours, or just modifying it to a rear sump?
Sorry, a little behind on the thread reading.
-Bob
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That link is dead. Anyone else have a source for this head gasket?
Nevermind, link is not dead, just not current.
http://www.raceeng.com is the main site.
And here is the actual link as of today:
http://www.raceeng.com/pc-1309-61-mls-gasketrb26-88mm051.aspx
What about a full gasket set?
I'm aware that MotoRex has them, but their online store is down and I can't find their prices,(I seem to remember them being really expensive).
-Bob
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As posted above' date=' the money they ONCE comanded was prodigious. But now with the availability of 2.9 gearsets/diffs from the Armada, their value is dropping as the diffy is stronger.
Now, with Subaru selling Torsen-Gleason R200's in their new Turbo Legacy, it's only a matter of time till they start showing up on the market and make things once made of "unobtanium" no longer worth what they once were.
No way I would pay upwards of $1000 for it, but indeed $500 would easily drop out of my wallet. The $1000 would be more for the old 3.08 gearset.
But as stated earlier, now with the Armada Pumpkins available, an even better ratio (and yes, it IS for a Land Speed Salt Flats Car) is available, for a price probably much less than that and with low miles as well!
Damn the march of "Product Improvement"! It shoots your hoarde's value right in the butt! LOL
Anyway, don't pay too much for that Torsen-Gleason R200, waiting a few more years and the chances of a cheap one simply showing up in a Northeastern Junkyard in the back end of a T2007 Turbo Legacy is HIGH![/quote']
The Armada diff is a R230, so not quite an apples to apples comparison. Yes, it is a lower ratio, theoretically stronger,(as if you needed more than the R200 can support), but is a custom install/fab at this time. Lots have done it, but there are those out there who prefer bolt in simplicity. For that, 3.15 or lower has limted availability.
And it is important to point out that the Armada's haven't been around all that long,(first built in 2004) and aren't exactly a dime a dozen. Wrecked ones aren't easy to find, and I'd bet the diff isn't all that cheap. (I tried to find production figures, but struck out)
Side note, -I won't be buying a Gleason-torsen - I sold mine 3 years ago.
And I only have one LSD - not all of them. Sorry for the confusion to several people.
I wasn't really serious to sell, was more just filling some spare time - but a decent price is always a motivator to move some stash.
Once I figure out just what ratio I really need,(plus the surrounding ratios for different tracks/etc..), I'll then unload the rest. Until then, unless someone offers me big bucks, I'm keeping all mine.
-Bob
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While it wasn't clear in the first post, (intentionally), I do have one. I actually have a ton of R200 diffs:
3.15, 3.36, 3.54, 3.7, 3.9, 4.11, 4.57,(with lsd).
The 3.9 is in the car currently. Not sure what one I am going to stick with,(I am putting in the RB26), I expect to keep it at 3.9 or 4.11 since that is close to the stock GT-R ratios.
Anyone who is responding to a thread like this who wants to buy one is always careful about what price they put, because they are driving up their own cost and I recognize that. So I was trying to be obscure to get a best guesstimate. Bottom line, it appears to be worth around $1000 based on a lot of research,(with ranges from $800-$1500). I don't know that I'll sell it - I don't need the money. I hate to sell things that I could later use, (it would be nice to still have that Gleason-Torsen 3.9 R200).
-Bob
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Matt,
A comprehensive thread would be great - just start a sepearate one from this thread so it is easy to search for.
(Likely will remain a sticky to prevent repeat questions).
-Bob
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$200 ! If the LSD is in good condition. Shoot, I sold an R200 (open 3.90) differential is excellent condition for $100.
I'm gonna have to go with not quite.... 3.9's are everywhere, as are 3.54's. Good luck finding a 3.15 - they were only available through NISMO/Nissan as an aftermarket ring/pinion as I understand and they aren't available anymore.
I've seen more than $200 for a good LSD R-200, with a common diff ratio.
Now if your joking and are trying to move in - I see your joke and raise you one laugh.
-Bob:razz:
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What is the advantage of the JUN pump?
I have a R33, and a HKS pump, so it is somewhat moot for me.
It seems then that the main problem lies with the R32 motors,(cranks) - do the same issues rear their head with the later motors?
Does sticking a large oil cooler in the system adversely affect the setup, i.e. too much demand on the system?
I have an HKS oil cooler as well - but it seems way too big compared to what I am used to dealing with. Not sure wether to size down a little, or stick with what amounts to a very large oil cooler..
-Bob
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I wasn't ever a member of TZCC - to my own loss. I was just too busy between Flying, Navy duties, and Rowing here locally. Shoot, I've only hit the road course twice in the last two years - not normal for me! I'm trying to go one more time before we head out of here in Nov.
If you want pics, etc.., just ask - it really helps if you see it in person.
And to anyone reading - the invite is open - just drop a line.
-Bob
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Thumbnail only...
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Correct, long nose, open diff - although a limited slip is available for it.
When you are dealing with a stiff suspension and wide tires like I have, open diffs aren't as much of a problem.
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I am trying to figure out just what a R200 with a 3.15 ratio is actually worth. Rare as hen's teeth, etc.. I know - but nowhere do I see any value.
I saw $2000 in one thread - but I highly doubt that a diff can be worth that much, (although I did sell a 3.9 R200 with a Gleason for $1300 8 years ago...).
Can anyone point to a source showing what they are actually worth/what they would cost if I were to buy one? Or if you can't point to a source, what would you pay if you were looking?
-Bob
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John,
Nice work on the car - I especially like the chopped roof.
I see your out in Charlottesville - if you make it back towards Hampton Roads, drop me a line and come take a look at the Super Datsun, (I'm in Norfolk) - might give you some ideas on cages, remaining body work, etc..
I leave for Texas at the end of Oct - but should be here until then.
-Bob
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Bob' date='
Is the color you selected for your car an OEM color code or was it was it a custom color? My wife and I agree the car is gorgeous!!
thanks,
RacerX[/quote']
Thanks!
It was an OEM color. I'll need to do some research to find out what year and what model if I can - I'll let you know. I have the full paint mixing quanities in my 1 quart of extra touch-up paint, but of course you need the same type of paint.
Give me a few weeks and I'll find it - I'm kinda busy with some Navy stuff getting ready for a detachment next week.
-Bob
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DAMMIT!!!! Bob is that the IMSA flare kit? Im getting that set if so....I have a GNOSE!!!!!! What wheels are those again? 4 lug?
Terry
CCW's. yes' date=' 4 lug standard Datsun hub. You can order CCW's pretty much any way you want. Not cheap, but they look good and fit the bill.
http://www.ccwheel.com/files/gallery.php?id=nissan#a
They come in 17 and 18 inch sizes, in widths up to 17 inches! They are called the "Classic".
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Beautiful
Is that house of kolor cinnamon?
Nope.
I scrounged all the paint chips in the books, etc.. looking for what I wanted. This was a late 90's Renault color. Some turquoise,(green), and yellow involved - more than say, the Honda Copper.
As for this kit - I believe that the IMSA kit might have been slightly modified to fit his requirements. There really is no other kit on the market which has these kind of flares that haven't just recently come on the market,(i.e. recent as in last 5 years) - or more accurately, any largely produced kit. It is possible that these were a one-off, but I seriously doubt it as the front fenders are a full fiberglass setup. The front at a min. is a IMSA kit, but I'm inclined to believe that the rear could be a slighly modified version of the IMSA - i.e. more cut in after the flare in the back. Just my thoughts. Maybe someday I'll get it close to another. There was a guy from Richmond who would instruct with NASA and other groups with me and he had a 240z with the same flares. He had set it up as a GT-2 setup, and just used it for fun. Unfortunatly, at the last event I was at with him, a guy didn't brake properly behind him and slammed into the rear of his car, basically totaling the Z. The cage did its job and he was fine, but bummer on the car - such is the life when you take in on the track. He had been tracking it for a number of years and I guess it was just its time.
Remember - there is a TON of body work involved in those flares since it was purple - and they are deceptive in how far out they go. They worked long and hard to smooth them out and make it seamless. They are honkin wide flares to say the least. I personally believe they are the same as your older car based on the pics I have seen.
-Bob
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Thanks guys - what a surprising response!
Lets see:
Headlight covers - I dont' think so at this time. I don't have any, and I don't know how it would change the current look. No plans at this time. I'll get it put together and go from there.
RB26 plans? Stock initially - which is about 320-330 rwhp. I want to get it running, work out the bugs, fab some parts, then I'll worry about more power. I haven't been able to drive this car for three years - I don't want to prolong that even more because I wanted more power. I have a low mileage R33 in excellent condtion.
After the car is all sorted, I expect to upgrade the power into the high 400 rwhp range, maybe more - I'm keeping it reasonable. 450+ rwhp is plenty in a 2500lb car. More than that and it gets very hard to drive on the track, (tracks, not drags).
I still have some serious fab'ing ahead of me with the intercooler, piping, radiator/intercooler ducting, intake pipes, etc..
I'm disappointed, the ghost flames didn't quite show in the lower resolution shots. I guess that is the intent - it doesn't stick out and you have to look for them. If anyone is in Norfolk, VA before Nov 1st, shoot me an E-mail and you can come take a look. After that, we are moving down to Corpus Christi, TX - same applies there - just drop me a line if your around.
-Bob
I finally uploaded a clearer shot of the ghost flames. There is a story behind the flames - more on that later.
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So I promised pictures of my 240Z once it was painted and in good sunlight,(and of course washed).
For those questions sure to be asked:
It is a 72 240Z with the older IMSA flare kit and G-nose. It had some significant detail work done to the flares to make the nice edges around the wheels,(instead of a sharp edge). You can see older threads, or my webpage below for pictures of the car when it was purple. I'll try to attach the pics, then post them.
The name "Super Datsun" was coined by some friends when I first got it. It has stuck and is an easy way to differentiate between this and my 73 Z.
The wheels are 17x10 front and 17x12 rear CCW's with 275 fronts and 335 rears. You can search for the offsets - it has coil-overs and they "just" fit. Those are the "street" tires and the race slicks are on 18x11 and 18x12 rims. You can see with no engine in the car, it does sit a inch or two higher than normal. And I didn't have time to properly crop the pictures, so please forgive the "extra" stuff in the background.
Feel free to save this as a desktop - but if you want to post it on a website, please shoot me a PM or an e-mail asking - you can pretty much expect me to say yes. I just don't want it used for promotional purposes w/o me knowing.
It is awaiting my RB26 so it can have some fun at the track. I'll answer what questions I can - lets just say its great to finally have it back. The guys who painted it are top notch. I have intentionally been very laid back about them finishing because it has worked out ok for me with my Navy deployments/commitments as well as all the house work. Their timing was actually spot on.
Anyways, a few shots - and take a close look at the hood shot...
You know, I just realized that these shots are all smaller in resolution to fit the attachment maximums. If you want a full 2mb pic, shoot me a PM with your e-mail address and I'll send it your way. Just say which one or if you want a particular angle.
-Bob
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Some of the updates which aren't on my website would be mainly about the block - it doesn't really matter if you use the N42 or F54 block. I have seen both blocks used with very good success. Personal choice there.
As far as cylinder heads - the sky is the limit and choice largely doesn't matter once you define your goals,(which narrows the head selection).
Since you said 400 lb-ft of torque, I assume you are talking about a turbo.
I believe the last few paragraphs are now very outdated. There are people who have successful turbo strokers - with lots of power. And there are "stroker" grinds available from Sunbelt motors and a few others - but expect to pay a pretty penny as they require some special work, but have lower spring pressures, etc...
And good P-90A's are hard to find anymore, and there is a wealth of info on this site alone about cylinder heads. Turbo - stick with the P-90. Normally aspirated- N42 or "maxima" N-47 or regular N-47 are all good depending on your goals and planned cylinder head work.
If you are going turbo - I highly, highly suggest sticking with a plain 2.8L and spending your money and time on the turbo, intercooler, engine management, exhaust, etc.. The money spent there will far outweigh any return on your stroker until you get into the serious hp numbers.
-Bob
PS- check out my link page - there are a lot of good sites still linked - even if I need to update them.
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double post...
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... It's very little more than what I would have to do to a F54 block. I probably won't sleeve my block. I'm looking at building a 3.0L. ...
Sleeving a block - that's not "minor". And if you don't sleeve it, you will be lucky to get that displacement.
I'm not trying to discourage you at all - After all I wrote a whole webpage 10 years ago about building a stroker. However, it seems to me as if you are trying to re-invent the wheel, netting a lot more work/cost for the same effect. For those who don't like the "bad rod angle" - I point to Dan Baldwin or John Coffey's, (well, he recently sold it) motors which put out in the neighborhood of 270+ rwhp. Dan's was a pump gas motor and I have driven it on the track. It was very tractable, had loads of torque, and redlined at 7000 rpm. To get much over 7000 rpm in the L6, (which in theory, the poor rod angle doesn't do so well at), requires some significant work on the crank, balancing, etc.. as harmonics in the crank come into play around 7500+ rpm. For all purposes, the short block on Dan's motor was a "budget" build - i.e. KA24 pistons, L24 rods, LD28 crank, basic machine work, etc..
There is no extra machining with a F54 block - it is the same cost/work to bore 1mm over as it is to bore 3mm over. Sleeving a block - which I recognize you said you might not do, requires a lot more work - but is certainly doable. And as for extra "wear" - I tore down my 3.1L motor with 25k hard miles on it and the only wear of any significance was my rod bearings. And that was directly attributed to my running hard and fast on the track,(I instruct), with a stock oil pan. Not a good idea...
Bottom line - I really can't see any real justification to going to all the extra work to make the LD block work when you don't gain anything other than the "better rod angle". Dan can spout all day about his "crappy rod angle" and how it has taken him to some of the fastest times on the track,(road course).
If you still want to pursue it - more power to you - I'm just trying to prevent lots of extra work and money for what might be minimal if any gain. (thinking cost per power gained).
-Bob
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.....
So it looks like
......block - LD28 bored 89mm devcon steel epoxy as specified' date=' and a lot of minor machine work.[/b']
......
Why stick with the LD28 block and do all that work? The F54 or N42 blocks don't start out with an 84mm bore - and you have more room to spare,(i.e. a smaller overbore). You can just prep the block properly and overbore it ~2-3mm instead of sleeving a LD block. It just doesn't make sense. Thats a lot of work for the same effect.
-Bob
(The Datsun Workshop author - old and outdated, but still relevant).
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I don't have that sunshine shot - but here was an older photo from the paint booth. Those of you with eagle eyes can see the surprise....
(Its out of paint jail, but waiting for some fender liner to protect the fiberglass from rocks before I can get it back).
-Bob
Wtf Did I Race Tonight?!?!?!?
in Non Tech Board
Posted
I wrote most of it along with another BMW guy. Its on my webpage - if you saw it elsewhere, they took it w/o permission.
-Bob
http://www.geocities.com/row4navy/streetracing.html