King's Evil

Hey guys, been a while. I been busy with life, trying to make money and been away from home alot for my job. So I am home for serval weeksends. I am trying to put my old Z back together that I been building for years. I want this year of the summer for her to drive! I would need the good ol Z support. My Z is basically a 1973 240Z that been chopped, gutted, and chassis split into many peices, and reworked it back together, rewelded, seamless welded, four inch bottom sectioned chopped. Modifed a 1987 Corvette Rear IRS into the modfied Datsun Chassis. It had a 1994 Police LT-1 with a t56 6 speed swap in her with its own standalone wiring harness. When She had the stock rearend, the lt motor blew it up and the case exploded, like litteraly exploded. way too much power. So anyways thats when I swapped the corvette rear end. So she sat for awhile all apart for rebuild. Now that I came back to it the wiring is my issue, I hacked up the orginal datsun harness so much that I forgotten how it all worked. Too many left over wiring that is useless. I got a gutted dash, awaiting for autometer gauges, need to have all light to work, horn and turn singel, and maybe the ignition wiring. I am not all that savey with wiring, So I decided get a complete chassis harness kit for the Datsun chassis. Basically for the lights, turn signal, horn, brakes and that whole 9 yards. Anyone can point me what harness kit I could go for this Z? Here's what she look like today.

Thanks guys! Just what I need, I just need to pop those old ones out and put these in, I was hoping to keep it 12x 1.25. Oh well as long they press in nice and tight then I'm happy. Hey mal-tiempo, when they are pressed into the hub how long they come out?

Hoping it can be flush or more inside the adapture,if it sticks out I can always grind some length off. I can go with 1.75 studs. Just hoping someone can point me out where to get correct long studs.

Hey guys, been a while that I been off on the forums, but I am back. I been working in on this Z and this girl isn't stock anymore. I got a pair of 2" wheel spacers for the front to widen my track width because I installed a complete 87 C4 Corvette rear ifs into my Z. The front studs are not long enough, the spacer lug bolts are only grabbing a quarter of the threads, that will worries me if I drive it like that. Can anyone point out where I can get a set of correct 2" studs for the stock hub? Sorry if this a basic question, I just want to get the right stuff when it come to wheels. Here's some picture of my Z for your troubles. Thanks!

I'll post a build tread for my C4 swap and Z once everything is done. It's kinda my rule to do that. Ill help out with questions and all. Sooner it's done sooner the build tread would follow up. Just hope someone can chime in with my question about the track with differance setup. I almost was going to not narrow it and run wide flares, but I want my Z look little stockish for that sleeper effect, and it's alot easier to get around in a small z.

I'll post a build tread f

Should the C4 track width be the same in the front of a Z for a auto cross? The stock c4 setup is about 7 inch wider track than in the front of a first gen Z. I think having the c4 wide is good for drag, but alot of understeer. Making it narrow enough the front track is .5 or 1 inch wider than in the track rear. Corvette Rearend is 80lb lighter than the Oem Datsun Rearend. I think it a great upgrade, less unsprung weight.

Try getting the wheels on first then flares, I think your may stick out 5 to 7 inches. I used to have 16x8 with 4 inch offset with 10 inch slicks, they stick out past the fender about 3/8".

I honestly like your doors, if you could get some close ups that would be cool, I don't really need door panels, but if something you want to throw in with the doors, that cool. How does the window work on your doors, any stripped handles gears or so? Let me know, I still have couple of weeks to decide till my pay day comes. Thanks all.

Thanks for so much post in such short time, I wonder if shipping doors would be cheap if its within the states? Let me know I will be interested. When you are wanting let them go, lets talk I got few questions for the doors you got. If not let me know so I can pick my options. Pictures would be great too, and your asking price and quote for shipping to 95687. Got any pictures of them? Whats your qoute for 95687 and your price? What they came off of? Thanks so far

Hey guys, I got a 1973 240Z, and I am in need for two complete doors on both sides. Preferably all good condition with keys, don't care on paint or small dents, Electric windows models are a plus. I am located in Vacaville, California 95687. Hoping could find some locals. Send pics and your price, maybe shipping price? Thanks.

To answer your question, I think "for me" the corvette IRS is alot cheaper than Arizona prices for brake set up, and LSD conversion, and misc parts. Plus the C4 aluminum rearend maybe alot lighter than the stock 1st gen Datsun rearend component., therefore it ease up the suspension weigh travel and rotating mass once narrowed. I wanna throw out that the corvette brakes maybe better/cheaer than most disc brakes that offered for the stock Datsun setup and even for the aftermarket Q45 setups.The Corvette c4 is much an heavier car than the 240Z, and its braking might be worthwile for the 240Z. I got the 1987 Corvette Dana 44 rear end for dirt cheap cheap, almost for free for me, it was in complete condition. I had to modify the corvette rear end into size to match up the 240Z suspension. I might run wheel adapter for the front to widen up the track of the 240z to gain its handing maybe would be better than stock with its wheel adapter.. I am using the 17x11 aluminum wheels with 335/35-17 tires which is heavier than the stock setup, with the c4 rearend, which is lighter, it may equalize to the stock 240z setup and remove the wheel hop and wheel spin for higher hp applications. The first gen suffer this alot even with upgraded suspension in the rear. I am still in the progress building the Z with this Corvette end, I see many benefits over any stock setup for a Z. It may preform better since the C4 provide the anti squat setup. "Note: Many Z out there suffer the rear squat under acceleration with higher hp/tq set up" It only take true guts to cut a Z up to fit this C4 rearend. I took this path because it was cheaper than anything else, and I believe I could I could cut a Z up and make it better. I spend over a thousand to get it to fit, maybe more. It also take real measurement to cut up a Corvette rearend to match the front to equalize track width to gain handling. I am just throwing random information out there about my little Z project, plus I am a bit drunk at the moment. Please accept for my spelling or grammar errors.

I am in the progress swapping a 1987 Corvette rearend on my 73" 240z, I'd tell ya it takes alot of cutting and welding on the IRS and the Z if you wanted to make it look "stock".

The label are pretty much torn off by age, so I couldn't get the specs. I should had looked all the sticky before I asked these questions. The 280zx booster and master cylinder might be the better option afterall. Rockauto.com sells A1 Cardone 280zx Boosters and A1 Master Cylinder with the 15/16" bore. So does some local autostores. How do you guys feel about the A1 Cardone brand?