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After looking everything over and doing some digging I came to the conclusion that using 65 mustang hubs on 240z spindles is not a cost effective solution for big brakes. I am now looking into a ball joint adapter that bolts to the control arm of the 204z and uses press in 2014 mustang ball joints. I intend to use this in conjunction with 2004 Subaru wrx coil over struts to allow the use of 5 lug 2014 mustang hubs and brakes. Which are 5x114.3 The intent is to have the outer wheel mount flange be pushed out roughly 35mm.... effectively converting our cars from a "zero offset" wheel to a "plus 35mm" wheel... aka just like the 300z and the 240sx, Toyota supra etc... It's a front steer, rear caliper spindle just like the stock 240z, once I know what the bump steer geometry will be I will have a clearer picture of things. Someone could use a widebody or flared setup if they chose to run a zero offset wheel, or use cheap and readily available 350z wheels and have stock track width. Let me know if anyone has any input on this. Good idea, bad, etc...

My first car was an auto 280Z and it was sold on me while I was at school one day (for fear it was going to kill me being rwd). That trauma left me with the notion that I would own another one at some point... Never seriously looked at buying one but did dream about an RB**, VQ or L turbo (I'm turbo obsessed). Other cars came first though... I like hot hatches, ex wrc stuff and fast street cars. I had originally planned on putting a dual DC motor setup in front of a powerglide in my 200SX (after breaking too many ~1000hp 4 cylinder engines - unreliable pieces of shit) but over a year or so this idea turned into AC motor and then Telsa. After removing the subframe and fuel tank etc etc it just made more sense to me to do an electric Z where fuel fumes and rusty fuel lines and tanks etc etc may not be as easy problem to solve as with a newer 200SX. So I bought this 260Z 2+2 as a cruiser for "my son" and I in July last year and set out removing / documenting chassis wiring and a to do list for other things. I flew to another state and organised to go for a drive in a "100kw AC" powered old school hatch - just to see if the power level would be enough to satisfy me. It was very cool (my first ride in an electric car) but I knew it wasnt going to be enough unless mated to a clever / expensive gearbox - so Tesla it had to be. And the rear end setup of the Z seemed like it would work easy enough. I was on the hunt for a Tesla motor for a month or more and it was becoming quite painful to deal with wreckers. So I thought I would start by 3D printing the rear drive unit (there are 3D scanned models available for free which made it nice). Not long after getting this model ready for 4 prints on a small 3D printer, I called into a battery supplier to see if they had anything I might be able to use down the track (rather than use 16 or so second hand Tesla batteries). Turns out the business owner is a mad car enthusiast + electrical engineer, so a week later I got to watch a Tesla motor run up in a jig and I purchased this motor off them and it was in my garage ready for fitment into the 260Z. Being from Australia and having used MoTeC products in my other cars for nearly 20 years, I wanted to use as much MoTeC stuff as I could as it is very reliable and I am familiar with the products. I 3D printed up a mount for a MoTeC PDM30 to control power to the 12V "chassis items" and measured up what dash and keypad would fit where the auto shifter used to be. PDM is basically an electronic fuse box and contains a whole bunch of solid state relays and it can be controlled and communicated to by CAN via the dash. You can monitor all the current draws and no blown fuse problems. Also important to me being an EV car. I had a place in Sydney called Custom Garage modify my centre console to fit a MoTeC C1*5 display dash and 8 button keypad (don't mind the labels). I didn't want to do this as I really wanted it to look as original Z as possible on the inside and out but a) I feel naked driving a car without a MoTeC dash now and b) the dash is very important as it will be able to show all the 12V chassis item currents and also show the information from the EV items such as charger, HV battery pack, motor, DC-DC converter, cooling pump speeds and fluid temps, aircon power usage, wheel speeds, calculated RANGE, etc. I thought placing it down low in the centre was a reasonable compromise to keeping original appearance but also having the data there when I need it. I wanted to use a C185 version of the dash as this can perform more functions (and display 3 cameras) however I may end up using the simpler C125 version (one camera input - with some kind of video input switching box) and a MoTeC M1 ecu with custom firmware. Its root code kinda programming so easier for my mate at RNTechnologies / Powertune Australia to set up rather than trying to do what I want with the dash software. They're the biggest MoTeC dealer in Australia. I also sent the dash down to a place in Melbourne to be reskinned. It came back looking very nice. Anyway, I got started on removing the spare wheel well (with intention of replacing with a shallower version of this later) for ease of fitment of the Tesla drive unit. Then along came COVID-19 and the brakes were put on hard. I was not allowed to have my welder mates come over anymore (lockdown laws) and I had started a reno in my garage for more car space so I needed this thing back on the ground and rolling - and didnt want to delay the mounting process, so I had another mate who has a registered business come over (essential work for him) to finish the mounting bars so I could put the thing back down on the ground. I also ordered some rear uprights a while back from Apex Engineered to suit 370Z rear hubs as these have a similar (slightly larger) spline than Tesla shafts. I'm still waiting on suspension to arrive so I can measure and order the axles from Holinger Engineering and put her back on the ground. That'll do for now. Lots to go. Chassis wiring next + purchase (and mount) most of the HV accessories and last will be the batteries ($$$$$). Not for everyone I know but it is a 2+2 version (so in my mind I havent destroyed something SUPER special) and its just a cruiser (albeit should run a high 5 1/8 mile or low 10 1/4 mile) - and I own a collection of "fossil fuel fed dinosaur's" as well which I will never sell lol Back to work...

I have two brand new in box Tokico Illumina adjustable struts p/n BZ3099. These are for the Toyota MR2 1987-89, but have been popularly used in sectioned struts for the 240, 260, 280Z. I bought these several years ago and never installed them and now my 280Z project has taken a different turn, and I will no longer be needing these. I will only sell both together for $250. Buyer pays shipping from Zip 29303. Please do not request a shipping quote unless you accept the purchase price already. I will need a few days to box these properly and securely including adding packing material to protect these parts for you before I can get the quote from UPS. I am attaching an article I printed from HybridZ forum many years ago that explains the sectioning in case you can't find it here doing a search. Strut sectioning.pdf

Hello Hybridz Members! Three piece spoiler for Datsun s30 240z 260z 280z Product is made from fiberglass with a flat black primer finish. Hence, spoiler is not a finished product ready for paint. This spoiler has 2 mount holes in center piece and 2 on each individual corner. It also has 2 threaded inserts in center piece and 1 on each individual corner.Quality and fitment are really good, all spoilers are brand new and never installed. some modification might be needed for perfect fitment. Price $280 shipped! - I can provide a discount for a group buy (5 minimum) Item ships from California* Local pick up available Payment: Paypal or cash for local pick up Any questions please feel free to send a PM

Introducing our first product to hit the market is our 1971-1978 LED Emblem turn signal kit. Each kit is hand made at our shop in Las Vegas, NV. Our kit is a plug n play harness kit that integrates LED turn signals into the pillar emblem. Installation is easy and we even have a tutorial video posted to our YouTube channel. To order you can visit our website https://harmonresto.com/ or send a DM to our Instagram page! https://www.instagram.com/harmonresto/

I'm still planning on sticking an RB26 in this so thought a build thread would be a good idea. The first few posts are just copied: Just bought my first Datsun and I'm really happy with it so thought I'd post some photos. I've still got loads to learn about these cars so I'm sure this forum will be a huge help. 1979 Datsun 260Z Shes in great condition, only 28480 miles on her when I bought it although its not far of 29k now. She was built in 1978 but only first registered in 1979 and going by the chassis number she was one of the the last to be imported from Japan to the UK. Theres few photos with my Civic in them also, shes a 1991 Civic running a 243hp B20. It drives beautifully, its had new bushes all round and with the low miles on the chassis it still feels really tight so its a joy to drive. I have real big plans for her involving seam welding, cageing, hugely uprated suspension and brakes and an engine swap, I like the idea of a V10 because I love them but failing that I'd like an RB26DETT. For now though the first mods will be: Paint the brake calipers and drums Polish up the lips on the wheels Give the engine bay a good clean Clean out the carbs Do something with the rocker cover Give her a full detail, I've already done the inside but the outside still needs done After that lot I'll be fitting a bigger better airdam and a rear spoiler follwed by a good coilover setup with adjustable camber plates welded in as shes definitly too high at the moment. Then I'll have to fit the arch flares before I can fit my new wheels other wise they won't fit. Photos Sorry for the amount but I couldn't decide which to put up.

I am selling my 1973 Datsun 240Z. Bought as roller without engine/trans in 2011/2012. Previous owner/s have changed the roof and various parts, so some of the stuff i pulled out was off a 260z/ 280z and there might still be some mixed parts on it. That and all the modifications pretty much eliminate this as a show car. Do not buy this thinking it can be restored to show car quality. It would take far more than would make economic sense. This is purely made to run quick/fast, not to look pretty. It's raw and needs muscle to be driven. It has manual brakes without booster and manual steering without power assistance. You need to be strong like bull. But it is rewarding! If you dare you can get 0-60 in just over 4 seconds, while carrying a passenger. I've never felt the need to put effort into it, but I am certain it'll crack the 4 second mark if you just lower the tire pressure... This is a great handling, light weight car with balls! Once you get used to its noise and raw roughness or like me, fall in love with it, this car is AWESOME! Took it to tracks and autocross events and thoroughly enjoyed the @#$% out of it every time i drove it, but I am almost done building me next racecar and I need the funds to focus and finish it up... Now to the great things about this car. I'm just going to list as much as I can and I'll save some details for when you come to see it: SOLID 1997 Pontiac Trans Am LT1 V8 with 310 hp at around 5250 rpm and a torque curve that starts well above 320 ft. lbs. from the word go all the way into the rev limiter. Max torque 340 ft. lbs. Stand-alone engine harness and Howell Engineering computer, tune-able, obviously T56 manual 6-speed transmission out of the same 1997 Pontiac Trans Am S1 Sequential Shifter that translates forward/ backward motion into the H-pattern - yeah, it's awesome! R200 rear diff with a fantastic Quaife ATB torque biased helical limited slip differential upgrade and 3.545 final drive ratio Nissan Armada CV jointed half shafts LED sealed beam replacement headlights with aero covers Both, front and back bumpers lightened (not good for crash resistance, so be aware) Fiberglass bumper covers, front and back, front with lower air dam Fiberglass fenders Fiberglass hood with vents and secured by lockable aerocatch latches Fiberglass cowl Fiberglass flares Wilwood brakes (almost 13" all around) with 6 piston front calipers and 4 piston rears - high temp fluid, track disks, track pads, biasing valve installed Complete Arizona Z car suspension kit with billet control arms etc pp, which keeps the rear control arms straight while the vehicle is lowered! 5-lug Rota wheels 17x9 front and 17x9.5 rear with Nitto NT01s in 255/40/17 fronts and 275/40/17 rears Autopower bolt in 10 point roll cage NRG hub and deep dish steering wheel with quick disconnect and lockable cover Custom light weight polycarbonate dash board Dakota Digital gauge cluster with 0-60 timer and 1/4 mile timer and couple neat functions Ignition activated dash cam with GPS Corbeau racing seats on sliders, forth and back adjustable! Schroth ASM harness belts Fuel-Safe bladder fuel tank with functioning level sensor and external high flow filter and Mallory pump Fiberglass deck lid spoiler American Autowire chassis harness Clean California title Made in 1973, this car is PRE-smog and does not have to go to smog inspection! Current registration Asking price $12,500.00 Located in San Diego

Hey all I'm just looking for inputs on CV axle lenghts for anyone using the r200 longnose 300zxt axles. I am looking at possibly having custom axles made and I'm just looking for any inputs on axle lengths. I realize the that the driver side is shorter but I haven't been able to find specific info on axle lenghts. I have seen that people have flipped cages, shortened the shafts, or widened the track. I am not interested in these options. I am just looking for measurements.

Wanted: 240z, 260z, or early model 280z. I need one with all glass and a body with no major damage. Rolling body with a dashboard is a big plus. Im located near sumter sc, and can have family look at cars near louisville ky.my max price range is 8k.

I have 10-20k to spend on a clean car. Is anyone looking to sell? I'm willing to have it shipped to me or drive to pick up the car

Hello Everyone. I am looking to purchase an S30 with a manual that is in decent shape. Don't care about model (Coupe or 2+2) or year. Just an S30. Not too much rust or no rust and something that runs. It can be ugly just want to not have to do tons of rust repair. I'm looking for a light project not a complete ground up overhaul. I'm located in Coal City, IL. My contact information is bkhansen93@gmail.com or 8154053050. Will be willing to speak to anyone who has something to sell. Just reach out to me.

I'm highly interested in buying this 260z I found on craigslist. There is nearly no rust aside from some surface stuff on the hatches. It's a pretty clean car but there is a big dent on the passenger side fender. The current owner says it was (likely) a parking lot mishap from the previous owner. My question is how much would a replacement passenger side fender cost for a 260z? How much would it cost to replace it? Thanks!

I see a few posts in here but I am looking for more specifics if anyone has any input or wants to try and convince me toward a direction go ahead but. I want to do a clean build (no junkyard shit) that I can take on road trips and whatnot, maybe on weekends and all that. I have heard horror stories of horrid MPG and being in the shitty state of CA id like to keep in the friendlier numbers of MPG. I am also not shy of HP so I was looking into RB26 swaps, Chevy V8, etc. Since I am a bit new am I going to run into shit with some setups, huge costs? Any info would be great or links to good posts.

So over the weekend I finally found a decent 260z to start my build I've been wanting to do since about 2008. Like most z cars it has it's rust and it needs alot of stuff. But I was kind of looking for one with those needs. I don't have a ton of pics yet but I have started a little of the teardown. The second pic of it is after I got it home and into her new home.

Hi everyone, I was wondering if anyone could help me with a problem concerning my left front coilover. I have new T3 coilovers on the car along with camber plates that I installed relatively recently. I have maybe driven ~200 miles since the install, however I have noticed when turning left at low speeds (such as backing out of a parking spot), the spring and perch will bind causing a really loud "pop" noise. Please see linked video. Apologies if the size is large, I couldn't figure out how to change it. As you can see by the sharpie mark I made, the perch does not turn smoothly. It seems to bind and then pop with the spring into place. The popping noise is fairly loud and makes me look like a terrible owner haha 😭. I then jacked the car up and noticed that the spring is rubbing and has shaved off part of the threaded section. This is probably what is causing it to get stuck: I guess the spring is somehow misaligned between the upper and lower perches, but it seemed odd as the spring was properly seated on the lower perch when the car was loaded. I dropped the strut assembly and checked for straight alignment (which it looked perfectly fine), bolted it back in, and put sharpie on the threads to see if it would still rub. It still rubs!!! Anyone have any suggestions on what to do next? The popping and now the visible rub is making me not want to drive the car

I purchased this dash over 5 years ago but never used it. I believe it was an alternative dash for use with Vela Rosa or Thunder Ranch GTO kits. Anyone have an idea of worth, or have a need? I'll probably ebay it. PM me with any thoughts

Hey everybody! So eight months ago I bought my dream car for my dream project. It’s a 1974 Datsun 260Z, but it’s no ordinary 260z. Here goes the story. One night I was just browsing Craigslist, looking for a possible candidate for a special build. I came upon an ad that had few words and no pictures at all - pretty much just his name and phone number. The next day I gave him a call to get a little more info on the car, and he told me the story of how he bought it from a friend 10 years ago. His friend was at a gas station and accidentally tapped a pole - literally tapped, only leaving a small dent in the fender. He didn’t want to get it fixed so he sold it to his friend (the guy I bought it from). Right after receiving it he started to take the front end apart to do a V6 engine swap, but he blew his back out right as he got things apart. So for the past 10 years it has been sitting on jack stands in a shipping container, untouched. The car has (I kid you not) ZERO rust on the body. The only spot that will need attention is a circle on the passenger floorboard, no bigger than my fist. He decided to sell it due to medical bills and the such, and EVERYTHING he has goes with it. That includes a full 280z parts car, new weatherstripping, full interior, extra dashes, disk brake kits, bushings, g-nose, etc. etc. I went up there a few weeks later with a trailer and dug the car out from where it had sat for so long. I brought the car home, cleaned all of the rat turds out of it, then pushed it into the garage. That pretty much brings us up to date... I had done a few things like starting to pull the original motor apart, but nothing significant. For the most part the car has just been collecting dust for 8 months while I worked on other projects I had gotten myself into. One thing I forgot to mention is that the car is VIN #49. I know that collectability-wise the 240z is the most sought after, but it feels pretty special to have one of the first 50 cars sent to the US from a one year car. That brings me to the struggle of not knowing where to take this build - completely stock, lightly modified, or balls to the wall nuts. I'm still not 100% sure where I want to go with it but I think it'll be in the "lightly modified" range. In the end I think somewhere around 300hp would be perfect for this car and chassis. If some of you think that's still a bit much, I was originally considering around 800hp! So now you're really caught up on the project. Below is a video I made for my YouTube channel of me going over the car and explaining the project a bit. If you'd like to see video updates of the car subscribe to the channel! I'll try to update this thread but I primarily post on YouTube. Also, if you'd like to please share the video with all your car friends! I'm really trying to grow my channel and need all the eyes and support I can get. If you made it to the end, thanks for reading and enjoy the video! -Austin P.S. If you have a better project name than "The Datsun Build" than please let me know

Hi all, I have been a reader on this forum from 2013 and now decided to transfer my blog also to here in hopes that someone finds it useful and interesting. Hopefully you have some good feedback and also criticism! This is my first car project and first time welding on a car or with a MIG so all help is appreciated! Best regards, Olli-Pekka My quest to find a suitable project started when I saw a article/video called "Dare to be different in a Datsun 240Z" (Dare to be different in a Datsun 240Z). Although my goal was not be different but the lines and the body of the Datsun appealed to me so I had to find one. So the quest to find a suitable car from Finland started, because it looked that the prices abroad were higher than in Finland. As by order, there were two specimens for sale on Nettiauto (Finnish car-sale site), that piqued my interest. Both of them were in a reasonable condition and so was their asking price... that is if project cars can be reasonable priced. After few events, it was time to decide which of them I would like to go to see. The choice was to see the car in Eastern part of Finland which was a 1976 Datsun 260Z 2+2. This decision was based on the fact that the car in question was priced better and it was in "better" condition. By better I mean that the condition was good but not too good not to warrant a full going through and to build the car just the way I would like. Added bonus was that car was reasonably rare: the car was sold new in Germany in the year 1977 and for the European market there were 454 cars made that year. (ZHome - Production numbers). The car changed owners after few hours of negotiation and kicking the wheels.The fact that the car had been in a garage for the last eight years, caused a bit of a problem to get the car on the trailer, because car did not move on its own (gearbox was broken and fluids had been drained from the motor) and the trailer we had did not have a winch. With the car came a "new" transmission, all of the parts that were needed to make the car run again and a rust free right fender. The seller also had all of the cars original documents and a Factory Service Manual, which was really nifty! All in all, I drove about 600 km to get the car and all of the driving was done in the worst weather that early winter 2013 had to offer... It snowed very heavily and it was slippery as... well it was very slippery. We did manage to get the car to its resting place without huge problems and the "great journey" towards Gran Turismo could begin...

The higher pitch is me blipping the throttle. When coasting it's quite and on acceleration where the engine is actually pushing i.e. going down hill faster than gravity, it has this whine. The last transmission flush had an inch of shavings on the magnetic drian plug. I have a 4 speed 260z and a unknown welded diff. Plans to swap out to spare open diff. and swap in a 5 speed 240sx transmission. Any info on that swap would be helpful to have!!! PS 75mph is actually 60mph

I'm doing some long overdue maintenance on 260z today. When I jacked up the rear end the left wheel wouldn't come off the ground so I had to put a block of wood on jack to get it up another 4 inches. In photo you can see the passenger side wheel is off the ground and suspension in a normal relaxed position. The driver side is about six inches lower and wheel is only 1/2 inch off the ground. The second photo shows the shock appears to have moved in the tube. This is new, haven't seen this before when working on the car. Anybody have any ideas on what has changed and why this is happening? The reason I have it jacked up is because the rear brake reservoir is empty so I'm tracking down where the leak is. May be related to this weird deal with the shocks or may be unrelated. Appreciate any thoughts, thanks!

So I'm beginning to fix some things on my series1 240Z #5837. One of the most obvious issues is the horn button. The black plastic behind it was 40 years old and cracked and crumbling to the point that no amount of glue or Zipties was going to hold that button on. So talking with a buddy of mine, he suggested maybe I could print up a fix. He gave me another busted up button to tear apart, so I did and created a new insert to replace the busted up 40 year old crappy plastic. I printed this out of ABS and worked it into my old button after removing the old plastic. I made it about 3mm wider OD to ensure a snug fit. It can be glued in place with rubber cement, but I'm not certain that's necessary, as it's fairly tight. It fits well on 240Z's and I can print it in about any color (not that you'd see it). Here it's printed in white so you can see the detail. It snaps on just the same as the original did, but ABS is a little more forgiving. If there's a market, I was thinking of selling the printed inserts for $20 ea. It's very interesting to think of recreating various classic S30 parts that are difficult to come by, especially NOS. Let me know if there's any other parts you might like to see recreated. Phar

I just bought some new headers for my 1974 260z, but they run into some transmission coolant lines. Does anyone know if I would be able to bypass these lines? Or what I could do to get around this problem? It's an automatic and I have removed the air conditioning. Any information would be greatly appreciated. The two horizontal lines in the second picture are what I am talking about.

Hi guys. Been a lurker here forever! Picked up a 73 last summer and haven’t had the time to sort it out. Anyone recommend a tech or mechanic in the LI or metro NY area? Car came with triple webbers but seem to be wired up or lined up wrong. If you spray starter fluid, she fires up and sounds pretty damn good. But the throttle and the choke seemed to have been routed at the same line by the previous owner 😑🤨. I own a business and really have not had any time to just sort out the damn thing. Any direction to a trustworthy guy that can take this job on would be much appreciated. -Alex

Thought I would actually post my build in the project section since this is a project. As the story goes my 1995 240sx was stolen on 10/21/12. Had SR20DET S15 with the S15 6speed, Nistune ECU management. Tomei 272/272 cams. 750cc injectors, Z32 MAF. AEM tru-boost controller. Ran the J30 dif with abs sensor that I used with a Digital decoder to convert signal for the speedo. Full gauge setup last tune done on the car in July put 305 HP to the rear wheels at 15lbs of boost. Car had working A/C. Fortune 500 coilovers, Isis rear adjustable suspension. Paint and body work done in July as well, Navan front bumper, side skirts and rear valiance. Here is a dyno pull!! http://s158.photobucket.com/user/melbellwood1/media/1995%20Nissan%20240sx/20110923_162204.mp4.html Here is a run at the track!! http://s158.photobucket.com/user/melbellwood1/media/1995%20Nissan%20240sx/20120113_185224.mp4.html The gray 240 is a friend of mines, He runs deep into the 11's at the track makes 390hp runs sticky drag radials all with A/C! Car was recovered 3 days later stripped. Did not have full coverage, my stupidity. Makes ya sick. Now onto the next project. Found thru the internet in Salt Lake City Utah. Car originally bought by person when living in California. Car was originally green and repainted in the early 80’s red. Late model 1974 260Z. Car had updated DGV carbs installed. Western Star wheels and headlight covers with a rear deck louver. Car ran great for short trips to work and out. But my first road trip to a car show about 60 miles away the car overheated on the freeway cruising at 70mph. So switched out for a new radiator and thermostat. First upgrades was a twin pipe exhaust through twin glass packs. Sound is awesome. Power is limited. I was originally going do a head swap, raise the compression and run triple 2 barrels. I wanted to get 200+ hp. After driving the car for 3 months and missing the pull of a turbo, I decided to do a turbo. Didn’t help that a close friend drives a Golf daily with 400+ hp to the front wheels and owns a tuning shop. I decided from research (not deep enough to add a turbo to the 260Z motor because I am over 4 times that cost so far and still counting). Looking it over I thought with intercooler and buying all the parts that I could do this with only about $1500 out of pocket and I would have a turbo driver! HAHAHAHA..... Plans are to be a driver with some track use. Here are some of my trips to time attacks and road course racing. http://s158.photobucket.com/user/melbellwood1/media/Tooquick260z/20130216_150116_zps0eee095d.mp4.html At the point of putting the parts together and driving my car some issues started happening to the 40 year old car. The transmission that worked flawlessly started being difficult to put in first gear (after removal realized it was the slave cylinder no pressure). It developed an exhaust leak, thought it was the new exhaust that I installed. During removal of the intake realized that the #6 cylinder exhaust bolts were gone, yeah missing. Also the head gasket was leaking. I found great deals on all the parts and put them together. Turbo, ECU, AFM, wiring harness etc. Look at the boxes of parts WOW! I located a P90 head and had it rebuilt and flycut. Bought some cam tower shims from Derek, member on hear from Ocala. I put new valves from the 75-78 head with some addition spring spacers got them lined up. Before.... After.... Bolted to the head with cam timing done. Cleaned the engine compartment and painted with a few coats of clear. Looks like a deep dark hole where all the money has gone. Who’s counting right! While this was going on my brother toasted his 1993 300zx by letting the timing belt break, can you say interference. With the tranny going bad(auto) and a/c problems and other issues he decided to part it out. So, I purchased a lot of the parts from him. Breaks, Diff, MAF, Master cylinder and booster, and drive shaft to put in my Z. To put all that stuff on I purchased the rear setup from TechnoToyTuning. Nice stuff. Rear Z32 diff mounts, coilovers with Tokico’s. Old and new clutch, I should hook now!!! Handle the projected 250 HP! So since I had a 6 speed in the stolen car I decided to go with the same tranny. S15 6speed. I researched and found a few people with attempted installs of this tranny but no one had a step by step build. I posted I wanted to do this and a fellow member Xnke (Jacob) said he could help. He said to send the 6 speed with an S30 bellhousing. So I purchases a 6 Speed from JDM Tech of Orlando put them on a crate and sent to Xnke. He then cut the S30 bellhousing and mated it to the S15 6 Speed. Jacob informed me that this is actually a Mazda MX-5 6 speed. he can source and work on these tranny's! Awesome. Here are pics of taking the S30 tranny out and apart. Then with the 6 speed back ready to be installed. Znke even machined the speed access hole for the S30 speedo cable. He got the 4.11 speedo gear that will work great with the Z32 4.09 rear diff. Tranny installed and mounted in Stock tranny mount! Street T installed to run the turbo oiling line. Electric fans installed,,,, Isis 12" fans Stay tuned for the process.......

Hi everyone, I've been having some issues with my door that I'm trying to fix but frankly I need some help with what I can actually do to fix it. I made a video showing and telling the issues I have: My hope was some folks on here could watch it and give me some guidance as to what exactly is wrong and how to fix it. Thanks, - Pac Man