rich280zxt

But can anyone tell me the real difference in horsepower? What would I be better off using?

I have no idea, on Clifton's Z you mean? Think he's got a 5-lug conversion.

Alright so I've searched the forum and found the same response of "well, depends what application you're running." The headers that came with the motor I bought were cut 4 inches before the tip, So I'd have to get the end welded back on, and then the rest of the exhaust run. Headers that came with the motor are 6-1. I found a good deal on a different set of headers but they're 6-2-1. I have a built 3.0 stroker motor, with a pretty decent cam in it, no exactly sure on the specs, but I'll be running triple webers- most likely 45 or 44 mikuni/ weber/ delhortos soon if I can get my hands on a set. So the question is, Keep the 6-1 headers or get the 6-2-1. What're hp rating differences. I'd like to install cut outs, So I can run it wide open at the track but be somewhat quiet on the street. Guessing 2.5" exhaust will be sufficient, or should I bump it to 3"? Not real sure on what muffler I'll be using either but most likely won't be a ricer pipe. Unless I go with the HKS 4.5" tip. Opinions appreciated.

Thank you sir

haaa I wish, credits go to Clifton Ragland. He needs every bit of that rubber, 7mgte pushes out like 600 hp. Not the same guy, but check out this vid.. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=124131&highlight=ferrari+video Datsun eating a ferrari. So sick.

Got the motor in, still have a small patch to paint in the bay, but mostly done. And here's a shot of the interior with the seats in.

No, you're talking about what most 240sx people do. Old school is like this.. Only he wants a dual outlet muff

It says JaxDrifting.com I took the side molding plastics off and got it to sit pretty low. I'm going to take off the original datsun seat sliders and make a custom spacer bracket to clear the lumbar on the bottom and use those. Because the Tibruon brackets are 17" apart, stock is 13". I'll be able to make it work. Recently I've been working on my 240z, because I really something to drive. Got the stroker motor in it, just waiting on an early zx distributor coming from cali, to eliminate the resistor and get a stronger spark. I'm putting the stock fuel Injection back on the 280z, since I couldn't figure out how to wire it. I posted a few threads and no one else seemed to know either. Its kinda rhetorical, because I put an 83 zx motor in a 75 280z, both are L28's so I don't think anyone was stupid enough to try it. I wanted that blue 240z in Mass. under the classifieds but I called the guy and asked him a price without the CCW's and he told me 4200. Guy is a total a hole. I "wanted" to get the 280z running and scoop up that 240z but I'm not going to deal with him. Trying to tell me he has no use for that car if he can't put a wide body kit on it- idiot doesn't even know what hes doing. Getting back to the point. I might decide to put a turbo motor in the 280z if I can find one cheap.

Thats was the sytle of most old school japanese cars, with the muffler sideways. I can't think of any good mufflers though off the top of my head.

oh yea, and theres no back pressure so I noticed right away I could rev alot higher.

No man, gtfo

rb26, I'd even go with 3 1/2 piping. Depending on how much you boost.

Thats how mine looked, sounded awesome, I loved it.

lol, yea well, your forgot the 10 mil. but thats mostly for the 280z, there must be a thousand tapped 10 mm. screw holes in that engine bay. But good luck, it is difficult finding 240z's clean enough to build but especially anything 69-71

However I take that back, you california a holes have enough z's. Leave it on the East coast for someone else to restore.

Look in the classifieds, that 240z was posted on craigslist for 800 bucks, I'm sure you could get it shipped to you. I used Four corners transport for a non-running car shipped about 800 miles it ended up being like 450 bucks. Good shipping company.

helppp

I have a Fireball Ignition, and new MSA coil. I swapped the motor from my 240z into a 280z, the motor came out of an 83 280zx. Everything ran great when it was in the 240 so everything should match up as far parts go. But I'm a little confused on the wiring for the starter motor and the coil/ ignition. First picture shows the end of the wiring harness for the coil. Guessing the blue wire goes to Neg. and black pos? and then if you look in the second pic... The bracket under the coil.. its not marked for pos or neg, so which way do I connect the other black and blue wire. 2. In the second pic, the wires in my hand- is that a ground? Finally.. The last wire. Where does it plug into? Thanks

Where do these connect? Where does this plug in?? Thanks in advance

About finished with the rear side marker cover up:: HOWEVER! This thread may come to an abrupt end. I changed my mind about selling my 240z and have decided to keep it. I am going to be pulling the L28 from my 240z and putting it in this car. Idealy I would have gotten a ported and polished intake manifold from lonewolf, new fuel rail and injectors and then finished whatever was left on the car; BUT I just got offered a 1966 Chevy Impala numbers matching 327, new paint rebuilt motor, tank- for the 280z w/ swapped L28 and triple webers. The guy said if I can get the car running perfectly he'll let the paint slide and do the trade. Pic of the Impala incase you were interested. TAKE THAT HYBRIDZ! haha just kidding I love you guys. So now there will be another thread on the restoration of my 240z, which doesn't need very much attention to be a 10 out of 10 car, including my 3.0 stroker motor which is coming this week! STAY TUNED

yea, its already been built. Bought it used, had like 100 miles on it. Sry haven't gotten an update, been raining every day here (FL Summer weather) And I've been working about 50 hours a week.

haha yea actually, the passenger side seat fits perfectly. But I remember reading somewhere on Hybrid that the transmission tunnel is closer on the driver's side, making it narrower, so the driver's side seat doesn't sit all the way down the way it should. However, the seats have a plastic siding on them where the levers are, I'm going to take the plastic off and see if that won't make it sit right. I'll make them fit reguardless haha

2006 Hyundai Tiburon, they're firm as hell and extremely comfortable.

Yeah, I'm picking up a sand blaster tomorrow and removing all the paint, and when I send it out to the painter going to have him paint the engine bay same color as the outside of the car, midnight blue. Hopefully the engine bay will look like this when finished..

Started removing all the bondo.. here's a picture after it was primed. Still got some dents to work out, and have to grind down the weld beads, bondo over the side marker hole and smooth it out. Front side markers, bondo and sanded.. Getting the car primered, so it doesn't develop surface rust, Then I took a break from the body work and started removing the intake manifold, and disconnecting the injector harness. A few days later bought an engine lift, and pulled the motor, by myself haha sry for the crappy shots..