Daeron
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Posts posted by Daeron
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Brian:
The 1/4" difference in primary diameter yields these cross sectional areas: 2.074 in^2 vs. 2.761in^2. Thats about a 25% difference in cross sectional area, obviously flow capacity wouldn't increase quite THAT much but its fairly significant nonetheless.
How much of the difference made in 1/4 mile times do you think likely due to the layout difference as opposed to this higher flow capacity? For reference, the primary sizes converted to metric are about 41.275 and 47.625 mm respectively.. I don't know what size exhaust valves you are using, and I am not trying to point you out as wrong by any means, just emphasizing the difference in primary size on your header change.
Edit:
I read that back through and even with my statement there at the end it still sounds like I am saying "!!!BUT NO!!! your exhaust was bigger and THATS why so you are teh n00b!!!!1!!" and that is NOT my intention. When I asked "how much difference..." I meant that question legitimately, not sarcastically..
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I am just now reading this article, and its actually rather good. I've read at least a half a dozen different articles/groups of articles like this, and all of them are useful because each is a review and re-statement of essentially the same stuff.....
--edit
VERY good article... interesting illustration here:
Consider the Northstar engine. If you do a full throttle 0-60 blast, the engine will likely run up to 6000 RPM at a 11.5:1 or 12:1 air fuel ratio. But under sustained load, at about 20 seconds, that air fuel ratio is richened up by the PCM to about 10:1. That is done to keep the spark plugs cool, as well as the piston crowns cool. That richness is necessary if you are running under continuous WOT load. A slight penalty in horsepower and fuel economy is the result. To get the maximum acceleration out of the engine, you can actually lean it out, but under full load, it has to go back to rich. Higher specific output engines are much more sensitive to pre-ignition damage because they are turning more RPM, they are generating a lot more heat and they are burning more fuel. Plugs have a tendency to get hot at that high specific output and reaction time to damage is minimal.--end edit
...but whats blew MY mind (and inspired me to comment here) was the fact that I started saying to myself that the guy chose a poor font. It looked, at first, as if the "r" and the "n" kept running together and looking like an "m." Hence, instead of
b u r n r a t e
it appeared he was writing
b u m r a t e
which is two totally different things.
So, just for S's and G's, I went to highlight one instance of the term "burn" to investigate.
somehow, I picked one that was a typo and actually was (and I cut-and-paste) "bum rate"
I'm going to sleep now. The world has treated me badly today, and that was the final straw
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Well as long as it pumps some fuel, it'll be alright. I got it for $38 with my discount, so it wasn't that bad. I tried to find a rebuild kit for the pump, but apparently we can't get one.
Thats the right attitude to take, without a doubt.. I just kinda felt... old I guess... when I saw the "new" pump.
Sucks being a throwback; I'm not supposed to feel like an antique four weeks before my 28th birthday!
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hrmmmmmmm...
Well, far be it from me to comment any more on how you fit it in there. Just make it happen and I will smile when I see the end result
ONE OTHER point I will bring up... Subaru XT6s had Full Power steering. Now, that system required some liquid gold steering fluid which is now at LEAST as expensive by volume as R12.. but it required no steering column shaft. Any chance of finding a full power steering setup, or is that right out in your book?? (I can CERTAINLY agree with anyone who would write that possibility off without a second thought... I hesitate to even bring it up...)
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you intake valve is open when the piston is at BDC. When detonation occurs with the piston at this position, you get a backfire out of the intake. KABOOM!
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that doesn't sound stock, so there is no telling, really.. but there is oftentimes a screw hat somehow bottoms out at a pivot point. Look for a screw or a hidden screw somewhere on the back side of the mirror. If that fails, try pulling one off of the door to see if there is a screw on the under side of the foot.
A picture of the mirror would be more valuable than a pagelong description of it here
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that orange one is tits, go for it.
Something about an orange 72... they're damn good cars, you won't regret it. I was afraid when you were talking about the rust, but the pictures don't look so horrible. Try and talk him down to 1900-2K on it, work the shabby paint, those pinstripe things on the side dont look like theyre in the BEST of shape so exagerrate that and say youd really need to have them either replaced or pulled and that means paint... make the car sound like crap and see if he'll take 1900.. but I like that car for that price.
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wow, that pump is as big a disappointment, as the car was a happy surprise.
I haven't seen a "new" mechanical fuel pump in about 15 years, come to think of it. That thing looks sad... weird.
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whoooooaaaaa man, my heart, shes a thumpin......
d0000d.. D00000000D!!!!1!!!!1!!
thank you so much for making this happen. I mean, I have heard VQ exhaust before, and I knew, intellectually, that I would see my S30 girl talking with that voice soon enough.. but now I SEEN it. Thanks.
oh yah, and the unchained melody was a nice touch
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sweet, maybe she's not such a ding after all!!!
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probably since you get further away from the flat 4.
?? Except for the Justy, the XT-6, the SVX, and whatever 'ute they have with a six now, ALL of subaru's engines have been flat-fours.... its the ancillary equipment, switches, carbs, dizzys, efi hardware, lots of junk thats very very similar. I was even told once that there is a fair chance that some of our L-series cylinder heads were cast by fuji heavy under contract... and that was in response to a question of *mine* regarding the similarities between soobie heads and the datsun heads..
In any case, the point stands that subaru and nissan have alot more in common than any other pairing of japanese companies.
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Well, Kevin, if you are looking at possibly SECTIONING the CAR to do this, I MUST suggest finding a different chassis to do it to... or, go back a couple steps, and look aat making the engine a stressed member of the chassis.
Ever see the steering setup on a later model Honda Civic? The rack sits just in front of the firewall, about on a level with hydraulics on our Z, and the steering knuckles are welded to the TOPS of the vertical suspension members rather than the bottom. Yes, its a total redesign of the vehicle.. but... Sectioning chassis number 935 to fit the motor?? HybridZ, woo hoo, I'm with you.. Most of the time.. but actually cutting the car in half to weld back together around the motor of your choice? I'd think more on the lines of other ways of re engineering...
I mean, its your project, and however you proceed will be awesome.. I wasn't wincing at butchering the chassis when you were talking of cutting tunnel and firewall, I just found my limits when I read "section the car behind the wheel wells...."
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OH MY GOD I just found this thread
I had no bloody idear chevy made this motor, and now I am in love!!!
but the stock manifold has 2 airplane wings inside the Manifold between runners 1&2 and 5&6. It's actually a molded in portion of the Plenum in the shape of a "Wing" that divides the air above and below as it intersects the runner opening on #1 runners. It must increase the Velocity at the corners of the plenum that feed the outside 2 cylinders!....And I had to stop reading and reply immediately to this because my guess is those wings are there to counter vortices generated at the extremes, just like in justin's plenum that got oh-so-much computer testing time and open critique and development with so many heads involved here.
thoughts??
Edit:
I have to confess.. I see this engine and get strange thoughts involving the chassis from say, a circa 1990 volvo 700 series.... or maybe even a bimmer!! Hmmmmm.. Seriously, I had NO idea this engine existed, and inline sixes just make me randy. (sorry, but its true.)
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No offense, my friend, but I believe it is your sister herself, who is the small ding.... THAT is definitely NOT a small ding.
Don't forget that the 77-78 280 doors are wholly different, I couldn't tell what year your car was.
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It LOOKS like it was taken apart and re assembled on a bench by the seller.
That alone, even knowing NOTHING about the seller, is a confidence-enhancer in my book. Remember the OTC quaife knockoff someone reconned and turned into a viable unit????
I say it can't hurt to get one if you take it apart, inspect tolerances and craftsmanship, and then put it in your car. In other words, treat it like a junkyard/NOS/mystery replacement unit rather than a $1200 brand new part from garrett....
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yes, it is, and there are threads to be found. Try getting less specific in your search terms, search N47 manifold and then scan through those thread titles. Look at any thread with more than 10 or 15 responses, even if the title isn't a direct hit.
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oh yah, same thing through and through, just internally regulated. Actually, it (the soobie/hitachi alternator) resembles the externally regulated unit from my 75 in every way but clock positioning.. if there are any differences between MY datsun/hitachi unit, and the one in your ZX, then the soobie unit in question would look more llike mine than yours. The maxima unit (90 amp bugger that I have in my soobie now, and many others have in their Z's already) is nothing like it in appearance, but mounts the exact same. it IS slightly larger, but my soobie is far more restricted in space than any L6 Z I have seen, and it fit in there no problem.. just had to change the pulley to a V-belt type.
Subaru/Fuji Heavy and Nissan did alot of parts swapping. There are many eerie similarities between my EA-82 subaru and my old datsuns, and I suspect the similarities only get more common if you delve further back into subaru history.
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I don't know. Why don't you explore their website? I know my favorite way to source bearings on the cheap, and make sure I get quality parts. I thought I would share it.
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I *should* have an informed answer to give you explaining all the vagueness about the wires, but unfortunately my understanding is too tenuous yet.
How about I just say, I replaced the 60 amp internally regulated alternator on my 87 subaru (looks identical to the 280ZX unit, slightly different clock position) with the maxima alternator you are talking about, and all I did was splice terminals onto the cutoff ends of the maxima harness that plugged into my car's T plug. And, Yes, fatty to fatty, skinny to skinny.
I just feel guilty that I haven't expanded my own understanding to include this stuff yet. BTW, if you do this and fry somethin, it ain't my fault, heh.. but yes, you should be right.
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Yeah, you need to slide the motor forwards off of the transmission slightly before you lift it up very much. Lower the engine fully, lift it back up just a *little* bit off of the mounts, and get a crowbar to wedge the engine and trans apart. Don't force it TOO hard, and honestly.. its probably better to try the clutch first (Like Rags said above.)
Thats actually a very good point Rags; thanks!
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One thing you might be able to do is take an intake manifold from the engine in question, lop off the majority of it leaving the flange and a few inches of each runner, then get three weber flanges and weld them on. That way you can choose your own length.
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Thermotime sensor???
Were any valves in particular, far from proper adjusment??
Pull the spark plugs and check each one to see what the burn in the engine is like. Clean them, run it a bit, then check them again.
Unless one of the valves was way out of whack before you adjusted it, I am going to guess "completely random coincidence" on the timing of this problem... meaning I doubt it has a very obvious connection with the valve adjustment.
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Check for high voltage output , possibly caused by a bad voltage regulator. norm... approx 12-14 volts. over 14.3.......BAD . check at all rpm ranges and loads on system. Make sure battery terminals are CLEAN AND TIGHT.
That. check the voltage with a multimeter; if it is over 14 the voltage regulator is bad.
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bearings like that are sold by size and speed rating... scan the bearing for a numeric code, and call a local NAPA with that number. Alternatively, you could look up the bearing by part description on a site like http://www.rockautoparts.com or http://www.thepartsbin.com and see if you can find the number there.
It may be available at any number of stores; there is no telling how many of them would know they had it though. Many industrial repair places would stock a supply of bearings that might include it, but the only way to know that would be by bearing number. Theoretically wheel bearings can be sourced the same way, but in practice is somewhat easier with bearings along the size of what you are talking about.
Well as long as it pumps some fuel, it'll be alright. I got it for $38 with my discount, so it wasn't that bad. I tried to find a rebuild kit for the pump, but apparently we can't get one.
need double check on VG alternator into '79 ZX
in Ignition and Electrical
Posted
I was sounding kinda dickish last night.. but its kinda interesting. From what I have gathered, Fuji Heavy decided they wanted to make cars back in the fifties or so. They knew VW was doing great with their setup, so they sent some engineers over with a few notebooks, and the subaru was born. AFAIK they were always front engined, and i think all but maybe the EARLIEST were water cooled, but they were pushrod only until the mid 80s, they made one 1800 OHC 4 cylinder that was a direct link between the final 1800 OHV motor, and they also made a six cylinder variant of that OHC 1800. Then, at the end of the 80s, the EJ22 was born and that is all they have made since.. only NOW have they finally developed an engine that wasn't an EJ or a 6 cyl variant of the EJ..
blah blah, im telling you stuff I think is interesting because I was a little short worded last night. Good luck with your alternator swap, I'll shut up now.