Daeron
-
Posts
2148 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Daeron
-
-
any twin pipe setup should involve a collector section, where all the exhaust is flowing through the same pipe, and then split off into two. it takes four cylinder per exhaust pipe to get anything remotely resembling proper scavenge effect, so anything less than an eight cylinder using full twin exhaust is losing serious power potential by doing so, and even a V8 benefits from the added scavenge effect of all eight cylinders running through one pipe. Note that I said power POTENTIAL; the increased scavenging of the exhaust pulses allows for much more aggressive tuning on the fuel and spark timing front.
-
simpler (and better looking IMO) to get a urethane* airdam from MSA.
*why isnt it "an urethane?"
Can you find a car in the JY? best bet would be to examine the mounting points for yours, and if you wind up finding a 240Z and not a 280 then consider picking up the turnb signals and going for the 240 turn signal look.. or use the 240 turn signals as lights to illuminate that corner that come on with the turn signal.
In short, If it looks like it will bolt up to your car, it will. It may require more work than just the sheetmetal swap if its from a 240 though.
-
Different strokes. One day I plan to do a "to the letter" restoration of a series 1 240Z. The fun (?!) in that kind of effort is the hunt for the parts and making everything perfect.
sick bastard
-
Cool, good to see one man at least posting an "It's OK" opinion on this.
I didn't want to point any fingers, I just knew that *I* was appreciative of getting to see it; *I* felt somewhat guilty (but I saved the photos anyhow) and I could certainly understand how it MIGHT have been a potential sticking point.
Whatever, tho. Thanks for the pics, heh.
-
Do you really think that was bad of me to post those pics? I dont want to piss anyone off, Dave seems like a great guy, and I did not realize that he might not want that sort of thing shown. I'm feeling kinda stupid now:bonk:
I do not know; I felt it might be worth pointing out. Let me be brutally honest and say this: I saw that, and then read BRAAP's comment about the shape of the combustion chamber, and my first thought was "I need to save that image, it looks almost exactly like I thought it should anyhow, but now I have seen a rebello head even though I haven't bought one yet."
Quite frankly, Rebello is as much of a dream to me as Ferrari
SO, I don't know.. it isn't INCREDIBLY compromising, but it isn't my place to make that judgment call. What would some of our professional members (gee, who am I really talking to here?
) think about this? My point was simply to say that I can see where someone *might* consider that photo "intellectual property" in a sense. -
Sounds to be that a lot of the weight difference that accounts for the later S30's versus the earlier is in bolted on parts more than the actual chassis itself. Heck, I wonder what radiator, trans, fuel tank, control arm, suspension and steering rack differences are alone?
No; not true at all. Read the post immediately preceding yours for just one detailed comment on the substantial amount of metal added to the bare chassis in stages between 70 and 78.
It really was both, and in the end you cannot sacrifice much of the weight without losing the other advantages of the later model car, and winding up with a poorer compromise than either stock choice.
-
talso.... DAERON thank you for your support . even though it might not be your choice of a styled kit. i appreciate that you see the work that went into it. so many people trash projects like this if it isnt what they would have done . they cant just appreciate all the time and effort that went into it and say anything nice.
No need to thank me, We just exchanged words about my thoughts on your work and its quality
The rest of your projects seem to ring true in my eyes, but I have a certain "un-Hybrid-like" strain to my passion for the Z's, and that keeps my tastes on the S30 body kits or extreme revision somewhat restricted....but mostly I had to say that I was amazed at how much MORE like a WWII airplane it looked than the natural Z lines!! The cobra front end is undoubtedly one of the more stunning "faces" ever put onto a vehicle, and 99% of my "distaste" (honestly, even that is too strong a word.. I don't DISlike it, but it doesn't have my jaw on the floor from looks alone) comes from plain and simple shock.
Its taken me years to even accept 280 and 300ZXs as "deserving of the title of Z-Car;" I am a strange d00d.
EDIT I was wrong, i saw the vid and it IS dead sexy, post edited for posterity's sake
-
It's a P-90
Thankee. Rebello might not like it, but *I* sure appreciate getting to see those shots of the combustion chambers.
-
can anyone ID the hatch as an early 240? I cant make out enough detail in the pics. I also don't see white faced gauges.. and I can't see anything that isnt stock about the console either, but I may be ignorant of an "early 240" difference on that... my dad's 70 never had the console
-
The new Ingersoll Rand #2135 Titanium 1/2" drive Impact Guns have 1100 ft-lbs instantaneous reverse torque with 700# normal... and nigh on 625# in the forward direction! It's a composite body, meaning it's UNDER 4# in your hand as well. 7 Vane Air motor....5CFM Nutrunning, and 24 CFM busting...gaaaarrrrrgggghh! Under $300 as well (check Harbor Freight)
Times are changing gentlemen, and those old tools just won't cut it! Many pros are grabbing those Ti guns because they're CHEAP and they have the power of what you formerly used a 3/4"drive to do! I use one to do the 2 5/8" Casing Nuts on a 4C Centac---used to hang a 3/4" impact to do that, and it was a ball-buster to get to some of them...now with the 2135 I can almost one-hand the operation, and when you got 44 Nuts that size to do...LIGHT comes in handy! LOL
TonyD, it always stirs me in a frightening way when you talk tools.
I used to work for an IR warranty repair shop; we rebuilt alot of other things, too. Those IR Titanium guns are the bee's knees, but NO impact gun can be any better than its air supply. Make sure you have a good sized compressor, and a good sized hose (3/8" is a BARE MINIMUM! 1/2" is FAR preferred even for a 1/2 inch airgun!) or you will NOT get close to ultimate torque rating on the gun.
The only problem with those IR guns is the way the air inlet is built into the thing, but they keep tweaking that and improving it. Really, its only a problem when it fails because it can be a pain to remove; most people have plenty of service free hours, as long as they have clean, dry air.....
:lmao::lmao: -
http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/ratio.html
jmortensen, thx for the link you posted; it finally helped me prove my own personal observations/calculations from driving my 75 for four years without a functional speedo.. I was spot on!!!
-
I guess at 600hp you put some..."Different" forces on an L6 head.
QUOTE OF THE DAY!!!!
EDIT
While I'm at it: Monzter, what head casting is that, P series?
-
I have to say that it AINT my cup of Z at ALL... BUT I must agree,
incredible, incredible work. That is an IMPRESSIVE Z!!! I never thought I would see one look MORE like a WWII Aircraft!
EDIT I just saw the vid of the car in motion and changed my mind, it IS my cup of Z!!
-
Valve cover is a billet unit, VERY expensive piece of material!!!! I Should have pics of that in a couple days, I have to do some more programing on the CNC to finish it up. I will probably leave both valve covers with a Machined finished, as by me being a machinist, I LOVE that look. We are working VERY hard to have this car at the JCCS show in october, and we need about 2-3 weeks to work out any bugs in the system, nothing works perfect the first time on a engineerd project such as this. It will be driven 1000 miles round trip to the jccs show, so reliablity will be proven on that trip.:mrgreen::mrgreen:
I couldn't agree more.. the only reason I even mentioned a finish was, the only valve cover I had imagined was possibly an RB?? and I thought if so, that more similar color scheme to the RB valve cover might be in order but... the raw metal is much much nicer. I hadn't imagined a billet valve cover, but I guess I should have. Cant wait to see it, your designs are so functional that the beauty shows plain and true.. this motor should be mind boggling.
Aluminum is in many ways the Mahogany of metals.....I think so anyhow.
-
My jaw was literally trembling looking at the pics.
I would LOVE to see what a set of triple webers or ITBs would look like on that head.. somehow the images of the cams and all the rest, and the lines of sixes and twelves going down the entire length, beg for the image of the six runners/carbs attached to them. Not to actually question anything technical by any menas; I was merely discussing the sheer aesthetics of the image. It honestly looks alot more impressive and frightening with that airbox and huge TB on it.
What was your plan on the valve cover again? any thoughts of finishing that top timing cover at all or are you leaving it as is?
If this power plant runs half, or even a fourth as strong as it looks.. OOMPY! Much congratulations, tickertape parade, and complete Roman Triumph shall be awarded to you upon your return from the dyno shop.
Thanks for the update, we have been starving here
-
Haven't seen this 260 ad posted before, but I will apologize anyhow because I know these posts are always repeats to some people and not to others.
This is the single neatest car advertisement I have ever seen.. the under hood shots, the way they call attention to the driver activating the choke etc.. Really cool! Dated, but cool!
-
Really? Wow that rare? This one has to rusted greatly inside being the cap has been missing for 3 years exposed to outdoor elements. It would need detailed restoration attention. If someone helped me with shipping I would donate it. I don't have a big enough box for this one lol!
Well, its rare enough that my Dad had a tough time getting a stock tank for his 78 280. I wanted to point it out; I didn't read the whole thread, I simply searched it for the work "tank" and found nothing, so I asked.
If the tank is in crummy shape, then i guess whatever, heh. Hopefully someone notices this because I said it and they will snap it up for the price of free and go to the effort of fixing it.. if its worth it..
otherwise it just proves that I'm useless
-
You got yourself an "error" car...You should have kept it in the blister pack.
It happens sometimes.
Here`s a little something about little cars that most people don`t know:
All diecast model cars in all scales are hand assembled. You can NOT assemble them with machines. Tampo graphics are applied by machines, body is painted in booths but small details like the shifter knob in a 1/24 car is hand painted. Windows, bumpers and all other parts are hand assembled. You can`t do these with a machine...
So basically what I`m trying to say is every 1000th car or so, might have a small error. There are people who collect error cars in blister packs and depending on the error they pay at least 3-4 times more than what the model is worth...
Also, when it comes to collectability, the most valuable of all scales is 1/64 - 3 1/2" scale... I know a model that sold for over $70K...
ERIC
HAHA, you screwed up!!1!1111!!
(please take this in the right humor, im being funny:ass:)
-
Three years in October since my car got fried, and three years since I have driven a Z. Click the phrase "Fusible links blow" in my sig for that story (beware its long.)
Sunday, if all goes as planned, I should be driving my brothers' 240Z in an Equipe Rapide autocross event at Moroso Motorsports park in Palm Beach Gardens, Florida.
Now, I haven't even driven this car yet.. and its my first time out on a track.. so I am going to be GRANDMA about it and do not give two FIGS about my times.. The car is a joint project between two of my brothers, one of whom recently had shoulder surgery. He wants the car driven by two drivers at least, in each event, soooo... heheheheheh. Even though I don't anticipate approaching even 85% of what I might COULD do in the car, I KNOW I am gonna have me some FUN!!!
-
I just searched this thread for the word "tank" and it didnt find anything, so apologies if it has already been discussed...
BUT KEEP THE GAS TANK!!! Sell it on ebay, if nothing else! IIRC, 77 and 78 each had unique gas tanks and they are not cheap to buy! Don't let one go to the crusher, SOMEone wants it.
-
stab in the dark, are you positive that you havent switched the X and Y axis and rotated your switches 90 degrees, turning Up/Down into Left/Right? I can see where that might cause a problem, so I figured I would mention it in case it hasn't occurred to you.
-
Ever take a look at the castings closely?
Hitachi, like Yamaha, has a very distinctive mark. Even with 'Nissan' throttle bodies you can find 'The Distinctive Trademark of Hitachi' on some of them! Many times it's a factor of who did the design work.
Nissan may have done the work, as they did have a large foundry, but some of it morphed into Fuji Heavy (ever notice Subie Diffs are R180's and R200's? 'Datsun Parts' to us, but "Fuji Heavy" componentry available to anybody who wanted to buy in sufficient numbers.)
Jaguar used Saginaw Steering Gear components made at Plant 2 in Saginaw Michigan for years. Matter of fact, there was a LOT of 'secret product interchange' on componentry.
Johnson Controls makes seats for Ford...Dash Assemblies for Nissan and Ford, amongst others...
Some people do one thing, do it well, and everybody beats a path to their door.
Oh, and 'I have ways' of finding this stuff out. LOL
I have seen the Fuji Boomerang on a number of bits of my datsun, as well as hitachi and N-D and niles and so many other component manufactorers on both cars.. In fact, I have deeply considered the viability of using a pair of my GL-10's SPFI TBs on SU manifolds as a quick and dirty FI conversion, and hope to someday sit down with my uncle and build one of his roadsters inot a MS FI car with the various ignition and induction parts from both subaru and datsun. After all, "SU" Carbs are all really hitachi "knockoffs" anyhow. In any case, between the Z car ignition bits, the stock roadster ignition bits, and the subaru ignition bits, I should be able to hobble something together to go in the distributor slot of the roadster engine, yet provide a computer with the right output for FI control. (the FI sooby distributor has an optical pickup wheel built into it, and there are two different flavors, one maunfactured by ND and one hitachi.)
-
Datsun didn't make the head anyway, I suspect Hitachi did it...or Fuji Heavy...
Fascinating... I know there is ALOT of fuji heavy industries in the car, but I hadnt suspected the cylinder head, heh... Come to think of it, the P series CC and the one on my 87 Subaru GL-10 are essentially identical in shape..
now you got me wondering, and something tells me that IF I ever hear the answer, its going to be a looong time. Not to question your facts, but I am curious where you picked up this bit of knowledge.. inquiring minds want to know.
-
maybe 1500 pounds? probably in the 15-1800 pound ballpark somewhere. Maybe a bit less; the way I see it is the trans itself has to be about 120 full of fluid, the engine, accessories, clutch flywheel, full of oil and water, another 5-700, the rear diff about 80, and the drive axles etc around 50.. fudge all factors by about 20%, and thats a good SWAG.
) think about this? My point was simply to say that I can see where someone *might* consider that photo "intellectual property" in a sense.
:lmao:
:mrgreen:
1976-1977..whats the difference!?!?!
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
you are reading an incorrect source; the "horsepower" numbers for the S30 line are confusing to say the least because most of them are rated with flywheel horsepower, not wheel horsepower. Modern vehicles are rated at the wheel; the 149 figure was probably a whp figure. My 75 280Z has 170 stamped on the engine bay VIN; you are simply tripping over a piece of misinformation regarding the relative horsepower figures. All 240s were rated the same, all 260s the same, and all 280s the same. N/A 280ZXs i believe were slightly different, but I am unsure in what direction (also unsure if they were still crank rated) but in reality, the motors are virtually identical and regarding potential, exactly identical. The motor most people build bears only passing resemblance to the motor that was in their car, in regards to specific heads, pistons, and even connecting rods and crankshafts they choose to install; this is how we get up to 3.1 liters.