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Daeron

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Posts posted by Daeron

  1. 76 fairlady

    f54 block

    n42 head

    msa stage 3 cam

    triple 40mm mikuni's

    msa 6 into 1 open header

    http://s88.photobucket.com/albums/k165/red66chev/?action=view&current=100_1073.flv

     

    This one sounds *juuuuuuuuust* right.

     

    Don't get me wrong, all those turbos sound incredible... but theres special noise that a weber makes, or something. The SUs sound good, but not enough to make it preferable over the turbos like the triple webers or solexes or whatever..

     

    Wish I had something to post to add to the discussion.

  2. we can't see the car and make a good, honest firsthand judgment.. but I say "salvageable." Would I write that chassis off? no.. but I don't know how eager I would be to buy it in the first place.

     

    You won't be the first, if you DO opt to repair it. Especially for something like a track car, where a cage may wind up being welded into the vehicle anyhow, rusted rails like that are no big deal.. other rust on the vehicle is an issue, and DEFINITELY needs to be thoroughly addresses, but in the end it is up to you.

  3. you wont find Z-cars in tuner magazines unles its a tuber build.. the RB swap is getting more popular now so you might see one of those, but to find a sports car you look in sports car magazines, not tuner magazines.

     

    Personally, I am not much of a magazine person in general; so I cant give you any titles.. but, its a sports car, not a hot rod and not an import compact tunermobile....

  4. I have read that completely removing the guide bosses can actually hurt flow. The idea was to thin them out, as thin as the guide, and then give them a leading and trailing edge to enhance the flow around the guides. They are also directed them with the shape of the port to enhance swirl. I have also heard that the trailing edge rib remove the possibility of the air expanding behind the guide and slowing down the flow, as well as the wet flow of the head being improved.

     

    This is all just what I have read, so we won’t know until I finish the port work and flow test it, then run it.

     

    Braap, do you have anything to add about your experiences with the shaping of the guide bosses

     

    Thats about what I figured, but I had to ask. makes perfect sense, now that I have seen it.

  5. grumpyvette:

     

    Google congress auto parts. They actually have a FANTASTIC website that basically gives you terminal access that is almost the same as what the guys behind the counter have. This might be of some service to you.

     

    When I discovered the website, I was amazed. For the rest of the world, Congress Auto supply is a small local chain that some of us find a great deal of pleasure in maintaining a relationship with.. not quite rock bottom prices, but good enough and worth using if they know you.

  6. I got as far as 20B 3.... and my eyes started blinking rapidly, and eventually twitching.

     

    3 rotor oompah!! I say thats the ticket right there. would that be a major investment for you to do? the mere fact that you even bring it up suggests that it may be more in the realm of possibility for you than many...?

  7. i have maybe a half of a coffe can full.

     

    Funny, I just finally decided to formalize the clutter in the bottom of my toolbox into a coffee can, myself...

     

    Theres nothing like a bolt bucket, BUT you would be surprised how easy it is to acquire several of the odder bolts simply by finding the right cars in the junkyard.

     

    As for obtaining a collection beforehand, that is ALWAYS a wise idea and it is at least a hair better (possibly somewhat more) than using JY bolts.. but don't go too crazy, and plan on restocking certain sizes. Nuts and washers are more valuable to purchase this way than bolts, but a limited supply is worthwhile.

     

    someone mentioned above,

    Yes most range from 6m-14m at 1.25-1.75 pitch
    so grab a couple dozen bolts of varying length, I would concentrate on 8, 10m and 12 mm although the smaller ones do seem to go quicker once you find a place that needs them. Retaining clips, the slide onto a hole in sheetmetal and screw a machine screw into, are also a wise investment.

     

    If you can get a nice drawer setup with a stock of bolts, nuts, washers and lockwashers, then by all means go for it; speaking from experience it feels good each and every single time you reach in there and grab what you need. I reach for the buckets as often as the drawers, when I have access to my uncle's stuff :rolleyesg but each situation calls for one or the other.

  8. very few threads ever actually get deleted. We add to the archives every time we post.

     

    Back on topic, I want to ask the OP a question.. Am I correct in understanding that you are telling us that you had a stock turbo engine, along with a totally bone stock turbo car, that developed a lower end knock, and you replaced that longblock assembly with a similar, "stockish" turbo engine that had nothing except the cam kit installed, and now you expect the boost to come on in the same way?

     

    I cannot specifically answer your vacuum related questions off the top of my head, but to change the camshaft in an engine is tot totally change the way it breathes; I would certainly anticipate a change in boosting behavior of some sort, and you wouldn't be the first one to install a camshaft into an otherwise stock turbo car and lose performance.

     

    I am not the one to direct further questions to, as I am but a humble regurgitator here to save those with more knowledge than I some time.. but dare I suggest that things are running perfectly normally given a non stock camshaft and an EFI/ignition system that still expects the stocker in there?

  9. I presume that the ridge line parallel to the flow of air through the ports, that is bisected by the valve guide, is there to enhance swirl? Or is that simply tapering the existing valve guide ie, "streamlined leading and trailing edge" rather than totally grinding it down?

     

    Grasshopper ask simple question, and smile politely. :)

  10. awesome AWESOME video, great choice of music. Did you manipulate the replay speed of any of that video, or did you manage to synch the music up that well with naturally timed clips? I was amazed how well the song fit the clips as they progressed.

     

    Another question, what is that "cruck" (car/truck) I see twice in the vid? First it looks as if it is parked in the lot where you all pull out of, facing the left.. then again it drives past in the background right at 1:45. It doesnt look like a Brumby (Australian model name for the Subaru BRAT) but what else could it be? that dodge thingy? a Merkur?!???

     

    On further review, it may even be two different vehicles, since in the first image there appears to be a camper shell on the bed, but when it drives by later there is no camper shell.. curiouser and curiouser.

     

    Thanks for that awesome footage of all those RHD S30s! Positive rating given on youtube.

  11. Chosing a turbo is a lot like chosing a camshaft, it all depends on what kind of power output and when boost "hits" it what rpm range.More information would be needed on what horsepower level you desire and what kind of driving you will be doing. Having too large or to small of a turbo for a particular setup can be at the least a frustrating experience. My particulat turbo is a ballbearing T67 T04S / T3 .82 witha P trim wheel with a "built" motor and a head and intake setup to flow at higher rpm it suits me just fine but would not be a good choice for someone who road races their car. A friend who does road race uses not quite so radical of a motor and a T4 .60 AR housing with a 60-1 compressor/ T3 .63 with a stage 5 wheel. Both turbos can make enough horsepower to get your attention, but are each suited to a particular application.

     

    No it isn't, he wants a purple one.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    :ass:

  12. I was waiting for the contest to be officially over before I posted this car. This is a hybrid that was made from the remains of the contest. This 442 ended up as an engineless hulk so with a couple mins of work I slapped the four banger from the Z in! I was shocked that it accutally looks decent, now I just need to find a replacement spoiler...

     

    100_1414.jpg

    100_1415.jpg

     

    4 cylinders,

    4 on the floor,

    2 passenger maximum cargo load!

  13. I am playing with some ideas, here.. and I know that my uncle has lots of roadster parts of various states of quality, from OEM to BRE quality...

     

    I haven't had a chance to call him, because I am working nights. I have picked the internet apart every way I knew how, but can't find these specs anywhere.

     

    Basically, I'm looking to see what the length is; and if the ends are the same size as L-series rod ends.

     

    If anyone has this info handy, I would appreciate it.

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