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Daeron

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Posts posted by Daeron

    anyone ever cut pistons

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    No such thing as the wrong tools if you've got the determination I guess...I would think that would actually be harder to do than to just machine the things properly! You'd have to make sure your pressure was consistant, and the swipe was the same length...I've done some sketchy mechanic-ing in my day, but my hat's off to Norm!

     

    try searcing the archives at Zcar.com sometime for his name.. "norm (the 12 sec dual SU dude)"

     

    The guy is WILD as far as how low-budget he goes with things, but he pulls out results. I am not 100% certain I trust my judgment of his BS factor; he is the type that makes you second guess belief as well as doubt in him.. You just can't decide whether to believe him.

    Fuel Injector Colors - Black - Please help...

    in Fuel Delivery

    Posted

    well, yes you will.. apparently the cosworth injectors are not the same as ours, but still, all you need is a dropping resistor in line with your "trigger switch" to drop the voltage down to the appropriate point... OR, just get a small 5Vdc power supply to integrate into the thing. I haven't ironed out the details for a Z EFI version of the same thing yet, but I will one of these days.. I have about 70 injectors to collect, clean, test, and label so I can match an even set (or two sets??? Or maybe eight injectors total? who knows?? mwahahahaa) for my car.

    Do ya think bigger U joints will help?

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    from wikipedia:

    Early front wheel drive systems such as those used on the Citroën Traction Avant and the front axles of Land Rover and similar four wheel drive vehicles used Hardy-Spicer joints, [READ: U-joints] where a cross-shaped metal pivot sits between two forked carriers (These are not strictly CV joints as they result in a variation of the transmitted speed except for certain specific configurations). These are simple to make and can be tremendously strong, and are still used to provide a flexible coupling in the propeller shafts, where there is not very much movement. However, they become "notchy" and difficult to turn when operated at extreme angles, [READ: outside of their tolerance, which (at speeds seen in automotive use) is a bit more than ten degrees, the number 17 comes to mind but I cannot quote that specifically] and need regular maintenance. They also need more complicated support bearings when used in drive axles, and could only be used in rigid axle designs.

     

    U joints work great, WHEN the axle in question does not depart from a straight angle greatly. However, when the axle is put at angle, the U joint is overly stressed because it is at (or beyond) the limit of its functioning range. CV Joints have a functioning range about twice that of U joints.

    Ideas for a gas powered generator...

    in Fabrication / Welding

    Posted

    10 Kilowatts == 10 horsepower. You need more than 10 horsepower to power a ten kilowatt generator, due to energy lost to friction.. but a ford I6 is BRUTAL overkill unless you want a 35-40 KW generator... which is enough for a house with central AC, a fridge, a water heater, a clothes dryer, and a microwave running all at once. Post hurricane, people were hooking 10KW generators up to their house and running pretty well everything, within reason.. just leaving the hot water heater off until nighttime when the AC wasnt on, minimal lighting, and other simple conservation issues like that.

    Broken Modern Motorsports billet stub axle

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    Post of the month? Maybe not, but thanks. :cheers: Seriously though, risk can and should be managed, but there will always be risk, and if there weren't we probably wouldn't want to race anymore.

     

    As to the why the Quaife might be more prone to breaking stub axles, it basically all boils down to loosing traction and having all the power go to the lifted wheel.

     

    Thanks.. as soon as i got this far, I slapped my forehead. Naturally, an effective LSD would be more prone to breaking stuff... :rolleyesg

     

    (I got off work and I was mad; I had a few beers. The intervening hours have brought my intellect back, d'oh!)

    Ideas for a gas powered generator...

    in Fabrication / Welding

    Posted

    I will throw the idea of an old Subaru engine out there.. Us 80s subaru guys consider a car at 200K miles to be "just broken in" Look for the 1.8 liter OHV motor, the EA81, or the EA82 OHC motor which is virtually identical. The OHC has timing belts to worry about, but other than that the only potential issues lay with overheating after the engine sees some use (we tell people that an EA82 with over 100K that got overheated once pretty well definitely has a bad headgasket) Headgasket problems are more pronounced on the OHC engine than on the OHV engine. the SPFI system used on the ea82s is wonderful, simple, and easy to diagnose with onboard pre OBD diagnostic plugs.

     

    I have also considered building a little old datsun motor for use on a generator... but never gotten around to it. How much is the gen head from miller?????? good catch on that, BTW. I know I have seen three phase gen heads on harbor freight's website, but... harbor freight... enuff said.

     

    Regarding cooling, since the engine is probably not going to run above 1800 or maybe 3600 RPMs, I doubt it will be too hard to get a radiator and a fan on it that would suffice to keep it cool under any circumstances; after all, they stay cool under a hood, in traffic, with only the clutch fan blowing on the radiator, right?

    Seats: shophyperformance

    in Interior

    Posted

    All you big people in Z cars!!!! One of the reasons I love the car so much is because it fits me, I am only 5'8" (maybe 8 1/2" on a good day) IE, sized about the same as your average Japanese man.

     

    The Z is one of the few things that make being somewhat short a good thing :mrgreen:

    Bigger cam, ignition timing question

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Agreed. That stock FI is crap. Get yourself a decent FI setup or some good carbs and you'll find out how much power you've paid for but aren't getting.

     

    "Crap" is a strong word to use, I think!! Just like "There is no 'best'" I would think that to simply bash the stock FI is a little harsh. For performance applications, the stock ECU is certainly limited, but is anyone expecting 21st century performance out of a computer designed in the 70s? The ECU is the key to the "crappy" stock FI, other than that the flapper AFM is the single worst part of the FI system's design, and again that is simply dated.

     

    Antique, yes, short on power potential, yes.. (and I am not trying to convince you, I know you know this as well as anyone else would.. I am just putting this up there to go beside your statement for posterity's sake) BUT for stock performance, the stock FI is wonderfully easy to understand, and despite what many have problems with, all it takes is patience and the EFI bible to fix ANYTHING with it. Many of the components are servicable (try to "fix" a hotwire MAF or a MAP sensor, or a potentiometer style TPS.)

     

    Once again, Jon, I am not trying to explain anything to you, and I agree that the stock FI leaves NO room for real performance improvement, (MS is one of the first investments I plan to make once work begins on my car, before intake, before engine work, before everything but my exhaust) but "crap" is a slightly strong word and I wanted to make this post to make sure that nobody decides to scrap their stock FI because "its a bum system," yanno?

    Bigger cam, ignition timing question

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

     

    Wouldn't it be pointless to open up the intake manifold runners without opening up the intake ports first?

     

    I have no numbers to back up my "internet parroting" here, but the stock manifold intake runners are MUCH more of a restriction than the intake ports themselves are. manifold runners are 32? mm in diameter (low 30s at least)

     

    Now, think about that 32? mm, and think about all the posts people have made that discussed the high HP limitations of the 40mm diameter triple carburettors... and think some more. A new manifold is more important than opening up the ports on the head.

    Broken Modern Motorsports billet stub axle

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    If you don't want risk you should forget racing and take up shuffleboard or ping pong as a hobby. You'll never take all the risk out of racing. As to reducing the danger or the stub axle breaking, I have two suggestions.

     

    1. Don't use a quaife.

    2. Reduce the power.

     

    I nominate for "post of the month" even though I do not entirely understand the motivation behind #1. I have long since come to terms with the potential mortality of both my brothers, my uncle, and my dad.. and my uncle is the only one who has gotten into driving beyond local club level (SCCA and HSR roadsters, the SCCA is one of the two BRE cars :-D)

    Turbo

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    Thank you for the sage advice. I am totally with you on that. The fact of the matter is, I have been one of the 'elders' so to speak on quite a few forums before; sometimes it's hard to find info to get going. Once I am rolling, it is much easier to seek out information on the specific things I run across as I move forward.

     

    Word, someone called me a Sage!!! That is the best name I have been called in a pig's age, thanks.

     

     

    I also might suggest you try a new thread for your own specific questions :rolleyesg It helps get better results.

     

    Also, do not go assuming that because others have built 500+ hp L28s, that yours will be able to hit that mark. 500 horse is a VERY MAGIC number for the L-6; 600 has been achieved.. but it takes TOP NOTCH work to reach that mark. Think about it like this.. in the almost 40 years that the L series has been around.. through the countless race efforts, and personal project cars.. only very very recently have people actually accomplished 500 HP. it was just earlier this year that the first (to MY knowledge) 600 horse dyno sheet was announced.

     

    400 is the number to just drop casually.. 500 is SERIOUS SERIOUS power that may well take race fuel only (allowing you to run more compression, more timing) to achieve on 2.8 liters.

    There's always a cure for displacement

    in Other Engines

    Posted

    4G RWD? Wow, that's cool! I'd still want the displacement and toughness of a 2JZ but a RWD 4G is pretty neat. What I'd really like, and I hear it's been done, is an AWD Colt. Kewl motor and lots of parts for it. Be interested to see how this works out.

     

    Why bother???

     

    Subaru Hatch, came with an EA81 1.8l OHV engine, should be able to retrofit just about any 80s subaru driveline onto it with ease, use an adapter plate for the 80s tranny to bolt on an EJ series engine (read: all subarus newer than the Loyales have EJ series engines.. impreza, (and WRX and STI) legacy, forester, etc etc. they made several variants on them, (1.8 JDM only, 2.0, 2.2, 2.5, DOHC *should* bolt onto any engine) but they all have the same flywheel housing.

     

    The EJ swap is a very common 80s subaru mod; there are plenty of Subaru RX's around with a locking center diff and fulltime AWD.

    Show your Z car sketches/drawings/ideas/off-the-wall stuff

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    Something I free handed. Realized after the fact it looks a lot like the DB9. Still not quite finished.

     

    jw1iq8.jpg

     

    Okay.

     

    Stop the presses.

     

    Now, I think it goes without saying that, while it is an AWESOME drawing, as a concept for "what to do with my S30" it is just right out the window... literally. The quarter panel window is nowhere NEAR to scale, the wheel wells are huge, etc etc.

     

    BUT.....

     

    I think we have an image that needs to be forwarded to Nissan under the title of "Next Generation 350Z Concept"

     

    :rockon:

    stock wiring?

    in Ignition and Electrical

    Posted

    well, I will comment ON topic before I skew it into a tangent...

     

    Personally, I would take your time in rebuilding the harness.. rather than just yank it all out, examine hoe things are set up in the first place and find if there are any bits you want to leave intact. Some things, like the instrument loom, might be best off with a thorough inspection rather than replacement. However, IF the concept itself does not really intimdate you, then re-doing the whole shebang is not an awful ordeal.

     

    Now, OFF-topic.. BRAAP, I think that "HybridZ OxyMoron" should be an honorary title granted to anyone here who has too many tendencies towards the "purist" to REALLY fit into the Hybrid crowd (like me) Somehow it just seems appropriate..:lmao:

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