franky240z

To be fair, there's not reported problems with the L6 forged rods that are all over ebay for a few hundred $. Why would these be different? Most things in life are made in china, you don't hear people moaning about iphones etc.

The car looks like a great project, just IMO 16"or less looks better.

14x8" plenty of sticky rubber that'll fit that size. Any larger than 16" just doesn't look right(IMO).

I've heard a few good things, nothing bad to be fair.

Has anyone used them? Seem to be good value.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/for-Datsun-240Z-L24-H-beam-4340-Connecting-Rod-Conrod-Con-Rod-Rods-ARP-/141012734111?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20d503909f

Hi Cheers for the info, I know about the head type etc, just the random numbers on the back of the head had my head scratching. Your guess of casting numbers etc seems to make sense.

I can't find details on this. On sorting out my garage I noticed that the 3 heads i've got(going e31/e31/unknown) have some numbers on them, what are they for and what do they correspond to? Someone on here must know?

Well gents, after lots of research and my 'total goal' considerations i'm going for a set of +1mm cast pistons. The whole rotating assembly is going to be dynamically balanced, the second 290F type cam, 40mm carbs and a long manifold nimso type exhaust. Having thought about it and looked at the costs/done so so much research it seems cast will more than do for the intended road and occasional track use with a limit of 7200rpm that it will see once in a while. The whole engine will be new components and everything will be matched as far as possible. If it does go bang(hopefully not!). looking at lots of dyno runs it seems that on similar modded L28's 40mm carbs will still make 220+bhp with them flattening out at the very top end(7300rpm where I guess the size restriction affects ultimate bhp). They should suit my old school modded 2.4 fine, if they do cost me a few bhp i'll get down the gym to shift a few Ib's to improve my own power to weight

Yours is a 2.8 too, I'm sticking with a little 2.4

All Good points, I was coming back to this to say I've had a think about the cam and how I want the engine and have decided that 7000rpm ish will do, and using this cam which from all my research and info from here should do the job. Part Number: 17036 Grind Number: 290F Intake Duration (gross): 290 Exhaust Duration (gross): 290 Intake Duration (.050â€): 244 Exhaust Duration (.050â€): 244 Intake Valve Lift*: .495" Exhaust Valve Lift*: .495" Lobe Separation: 106 Intake Valve Lash: .008" Exhaust Valve Lash: .010" Should make good power/rev to 7k and work well with the carbs etc I've got? ETA John as a side note, how far should your subaru diff adapters stick out once fully home? I guess the debate is, is it worth the extra $350 for forged pistons to future proof my engine? I guess they'll help the motor spin up a little quicker too.

I would have thought that 40's with big chokes would be a good choice for a 2.4, keeping gas speed up and a bit of smoothness at lower rpm?

I might come down on the cam a little, I'd prefer a peak at 7500rpm. Which I guess is still outside the limits of cast? Its not a race car so won't be sat at that rpm all the time.

Yes but how much really, whats the safe limit for cast(balanced ones mind)? So more rpm and another 10bhp?

Trying to work out if I should go for forged or cast pistons. Crank - lightened and balanced(dynamic balance too), PSI damper cam - Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 264 Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 264 Duration at 050 inch Lift 264 int./264 exh. Advertised Intake Duration 306 Advertised Exhaust Duration 306 Advertised Duration 306 int./306 exh. Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.530 in. Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.530 in. carbs - triple 40's Block - original 2.4(+1mm) Ignition - mallory unilite dizzy and MSD ignition head - e31 or e88 both will be big valve with light porting Exhaust - 6 branch nimso long style flywheel - standard lightened. Compression 10.5:1 or upto 11.0:1(95 or 98 ron european fuel). Basically i'm thinking with cast pistons i'm limited to about 6800rpm, if I went down the extra expense of forged what would it really gain me?

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Ideally looking for new but will have used. longish duration cam with about 50 lift, also upgraded springs and bits.

As above, looking for an adjustable cam sprocket for a nissan/datsun L6

If you're stuck on an adjustable perch why not go for some where you can just use shorter springs?

I think this is what I want. Just a little more lift.. Brand Isky Racing Cams Manufacturer's Part Number 718196 Part Type Camshafts Product Line Isky Solid Flat Tappet Camshafts Summit Racing Part Number ISK-718196 Cam Style Mechanical flat tappet Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 264 Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 264 Duration at 050 inch Lift 264 int./264 exh. Advertised Intake Duration 306 Advertised Exhaust Duration 306 Advertised Duration 306 int./306 exh. Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.530 in. Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.530 in. Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.530 int./0.530 exh. Intake Valve Lash 0.010 in. Exhaust Valve Lash 0.010 in. Computer-Controlled Compatible No Grind Number Z-196 Valve Springs Required Yes Camshaft Manufacturers Description Fits the Datsun 280-Z 2,800cc engine. Competition camshaft, thicker valve lash caps ISK-LC-263 required. Quantity Sold individually. Notes Rev lube included.

i'm fitting new rockers though, I guess new ones would be ok with a cam change under 1000miles?

I just want a lively feeling engine, i'm staying at 2.4 +1mm. 40mm carbs, lightened/balanced bottom end and flywheel. What do you think might suit? My current cam?

I love your engine spec+airbox

I already think i'll have to get something a little lumpier. I'm running a 4.44 subaru plated lsd so no having much push low down isn't an issue. its not a daily driver either. Ideally i'd like something that came on about 3500ish rpm and pulled nice to 6800. As its a fun/toy car I do want a fun feeling engine.

Should also put, 2.4, worked head, 40mm carbs, 1+mm bore, 10.0:1 compression.

So not quite enough 'cam' then? Does anyone run something similar?