cegrover

That car was indeed most interesting up close! I haven't seen it since I took those photos in August, though...

I am about to go with standalone EFI on my stroker build and am thinking of making the jump to ITBs at the same time. Please let me know if you have a setup you'd like to offload. I may consider another custom intake, such as Lonewolf. Thanks for any help!

No real update except I've been putting some miles on it. I moved across the country and back to SOCAL; so the Z is now a regular at Irvine Cars and Coffee. Anyone else here regularly appear there? This photographer seems to catch me every week, but, then again, he takes a TON of photos: http://www.cncpics.com/2012/June/Cars/23882067_9vDBbs#!i=1941280503&k=Rqhz5cX&lb=1&s=A Game plan: 1) Keep breaking it in for a while 2) Get hole in floor pan patched - had to cut it out to clear the header 3) Change over to AEM EFI with either MAP sensor or MAF 4) Install interior! All this starts when there are fewer boxes around the house to unpack.

And...it's back and running. A bit rich, but will try to sort. It's definitely much more torquey than stock - MUCH better all around. Still no interior, but I'm hoping that's easy compared to the engine swap, etc.

Thanks! Re: Drip rails - Right now, they're just body color. I may just leave off the trim, but we'll see.

And...off to my Z specialist for tuning and AC completion. Then, it needs an interior.

I'm about to get a 3.1L project running and know that stock EFI is not optimal. I ran into the item listed below and am curious about it. The question is whether there's anything valid about using this type of device, or if it can't make a complex enough 'map' to run as well as something else. I certainly have doubts about such a 'quick fix' solution, and am interested in whether anyone here has actual experience with one. Outside that, I'm leaning toward SDS, at this point. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fuel-Control-Box-Nissan-Datsun-Toyota-Supra-Mazda-BMW-/380151907169?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5882d1c361 http://www.hiperformancestore.com/fuelinjectors.htm Quote from ad: "The old L-Jetronic system is an analog fuel injection system. This means it has no software to chip, flash, or reprogram. It can not take advantage of the mass air flow conversion kits out there as they only work on digital systems. With an old analog system like L-Jetronic, it's all in the hardware. For years those of us wanting to change the fuel curves on L-Jetronic cars had few choices. One popular choice was sending the ECU to a specialist for adjustments. This cost about $400 and involved a certain amount of risk to the ECU as the units are very delicate when they are apart. Hairline cracks in the boards and loosened solder joints were common on these boxes. The worst part was you had to send it back in every time you made a big change to the motor. Finally someone has an inexpensive and ADJUSTABLE solution. Our new product allows excellent control of the fuel system. It DOES NOT make L-Jet as good as a modern injection system like Gotech, SDS, Motec, etc. However it does allow enough control over the fuel curve to handle about 5 pounds of boost with stock fuel injectors and 10 pounds with Stage 2 injectors. If you want to avoid the hassle of upgrading to modern injection. Or you just feel comfortable with the reliability of the stock injection system then this product is for you. Two factors can be adjusted. You can control exactly when the system signals the ECU to send in more fuel and you can alter how much extra fuel is added. The amount of fuel is not infinitely adjustable however we include 25 settings which will provide enough range of adjustment for almost everyone. The device on my car is set to trigger at 5500rpm and adds enough fuel to handle 10 pounds of boost on my 2.5 with Stage 2 injectors. Without the device the car starts to lean out at 5500 rpm and would be dangerously lean by 6000 rpm. Now at 5500 the car accelerates noticeably harder and the mixture stays in line up to 6500+ rpm. Installation is simple and only requires one wire on the car to be cut. It does not require removal of the ECU, soldering or anything else. It's very small and can be hidden anywhere. Even in plain view nobody notices it."

I don't know of anyone, but I'm soon to be in the same boat. Please update here if you find someone!

Thanks, I think... The goal was to have a modern update somewhat similar to the original copper color. Hopefully, I'll have images from out in the sun soon!

And the new engine is in! I only have a crap phone pic for now...

Oops, no evidence of the new wheels and tires was included...

With help from friends, I finally had major progress on my Z project today! Short version: - Jan 2007: Bought car locally from original owner - Drove off and on - Jun 2007: Bought used 3.1L stroker, 3.90 diff, 5-speed trans, header and other related parts (head has turbo injectors and intake has larger throttle body). - Jan 2009: Sent to Westside Group on Torrance, CA for media blasting to bare metal, rust repair (pans and rails), rubber coat, bumper conversion (MSA fiberglass 240-style) and paint, which is 2004-2008 Infiniti FX Beryllium - Dec 2009: Sent engine out for rebuild and cam swap from MSA stage 5 (too much for fuel injection) to stage 2. Raised compression to about 9.5:1. - Jul 2010: Got car back and started attempting to get it running again with stock engine (it had been out for all the work) - Jul 2010: Got engine back (yeah, it sat at the shop a good while) - Today, Jan 16, 2011: Pulled stock engine and started prep for stroker! That's the short version - now to get the 'new' engine in and get weatherstipping, sound deadener and interior together. I'll later be looking at whether I feel 4-piston conversion and maybe rear discs are necessary. The plan is for a fun street car, but it could see the occasional track day. Anyway, I'd meant to start a thread a long time ago and I've found this forum to be a VERY valuable resource, so this is the update, well into the project. A few more details are below and some photos from along the way. Details to be finished/added: Centerforce PP with stock equivalent disc, old Nissan Motorsport header to be ceramic coated, 3-inch exhaust, old Nissan Motorsport short shifter, carpet kit and door panel material from Too Intense Restoration, some emblems, dash coverlay, etc. Parts already on the car: ST sway bars, Illumina struts, Eibach springs, 15-inch Konig Rewinds (need to space a little to fit center caps) with 215/55r15, Russell stainless brake lines Shot from when I bought it: In progess: In progress (paint done!): On its way home: Back home in the garage: Today (Jan. 16, 2011) after engine pull:

Hi Deja: Your front bumper looks great in the photos on your web site. That's where I'm headed with my '75 280Z stroker project. Have you changed the rear bumper?

Did you get the bumpers on and do you have any photos?

Hi, do you have any photos of the new bumper on the 260?

I've found some decent info on bumper swaps involving 240 bumpers on 280s, but haven't seen a lot of info on fiberglass bumpers on 280s. Obviously, the mounting methodology should be the same if the fiber bumpers are designed to be direct bolt-ons for the 240; but I was wondering if anyone had experience and photos.

Looks great! What bumpers are those?