zilvia_gt

ditto, me too!

Thanks for your input Careless. It was just food for thoughts. Guess it's back to the original plan, external pickup.

I'm just wondering, does the McKinney mounts come with the polyurethane isolators like the red(tranny) and yellow(engine) ones in Jakeoster's pictures or are those universal energy suspension parts?

Any update on this?

I'm finally continuing with my rbz swap. At first I was going to do an external oil pick-up, but I've been contemplating some ideas for a few days now about doing a custom internal oil pickup for my setup instead. I was just wondering if a corrugated stainless steel hose would be able to withstand the internal pressures/windage created inside the crank/oil pan area? Here are the specs for the hose: http://www.hosecraftusa.com/model.php?id=229 Here are the specs for the braided version: http://www.hosecraftusa.com/model.php?id=220 Being that the main factor to consider here is the hose/pipe being crushed instead of exploding, I was leaning towards the non-braided version since they both handle the same Vac specs (and it's cheaper). What do you fellow hybrid z'ers think?

Yeah, I would like aluminum. So where did you get the other fittings, the cable ends and the fittings to the brackets? Did you adapt the stock ones?

I'm interested, seems like you can adapt it easy enough for an rb swap as well. Will you be offering them both in stainless and aluminum or just stainless?

I was just wondering, where did you guys end up placing the shims? I read both posts and couldn't find a definite answer to this.

Thanks for clearing that up. Your comment about the honda guys. Their engines are small little 1.5-1.8 liter four bangers and our rb's are 2.5-3.0 6 cylinder engines (with the exception of the rb20). I would imagine that the rotating mass required to keep the engine revs between shifts up would be quite different. The driving characteristics between honda and nissan engines are also different. Nissan motors tend to have more torque so they can deal with the heavier rotating mass. Just my thoughts though, I've never driven any car with a 9 lbs flywheel.

Ditto, that's why I forked up the money for an Exedy one. Here's a quote on the Exedy unit; "EXEDY flywheels combine low weight, low inertia and high thermal capacity. They are designed for lightly tuned cars for drag racing, autocross, and rally events, as well as street usage. They are made from solid one-piece billet chromoly steel or chromoly steel forgings. They are specifically designed to reduce weight and inertia for better engine response. Most incorporate special design features to enhance the airflow which improves the cooling of the clutch. The ring gear teeth are integrated onto the flywheel unlike an aluminum flywheel where the ring gear is pressed onto the flywheel and has the possibility of separating from the flywheel due to the different expansion coefficients of aluminum versus steel. EXEDY steel billet and forged steel flywheels have passed engineering tests to 15,000-18,000 rpm. They are guaranteed not to fail to the said rpm, and are all SFI approved." Image of flywheel is in my album. I measured the flywheel weight to 15 lbs with a mail scale. I've read that this is the optimum weight for performance without sacrificing driveability. 12 and 10 lbs flywheels are intended for more track oriented cars rather than street driven cars, not to mention the clatter.

Thanks Rob, I sent you an email.

Ok, so I finally got to the point were I can drop my rb26 into my Z so I decided to purchase a z31 rb20 oil pan. Well guess what? Nissan USA discontinued the part number. I contacted at least a dozen US retailer and no one had it on stock. I asked if they can source it from Japan or Canada and they were like....."We don't know". Needless to say, I got no answer. So second option. I took the AWD tranny to the machine shops and explained to them that I needed the tranaxle and flanges cut off, the holes plugged and welded, and move the sump to the back via cut and re-weld...they looked at my like "are you crazy?". I was thinking "...and you call yourself a machine shop?" So the question is does anyone have a Z31 rb20 rear facing oil pan they don't need or knows where I can source one (not the front sump rb20 pans, found that out the hard way)? Anyone from Canada know of any dealers that can still get them? How about a custom pan for our swaps that they no longer need? Or if you know a reputable shop than can customize an aluminum or modify the awd pan in the Northern California area or Souther Oregon area (I spend my time in both areas)? P.S. - I plan to go external pick-up so I didn't check on #15050-20P03, which is the matching oil pick-up tube for the z31 rb20 pan, so they might have discontinued that as well. Thanks.

Have you thought about fabrication some of these up and offering them for members here (at least the delrin part) who don't have access to a lathe?

I found them on ebay; item #250107058986. They would work great for your dual bank set-up. However, I don't think they'll work for my application. The rb26dett is triggered individually buy the ecu (via the negative signal) so I guess I'll have to wire separate 6 ohm resistors between the injector and the 12V power source. At first I was thinking I can wire just this one resistor to the 12V power source, since it's 2 ohm and 25 watts, then attach all the positive side wire of the injectors to the resistor, but I'm no longer sure if this will work or not.

Thanks everyone for putting up with my curiosity. Zmanco, by breaking it up like that it makes more sense. However, in your case you're using MS that fires 2 banks of 3 injectors at a time. So the question now is on a stock rb26dett using the stock ecu, is it sequential fire, batch fire, or 2 banks like your MS? Following your math, I calculated that sequential fire (6 banks or 1 injector at once) will need 12 ohms resistors to get 2 ohms at the injector and a batch fire (1 bank or all 6 injectors at once) will need a 2 ohm resistor to get 2 ohms at the injector. I'm I confusing myself again? GetoffMyInternet, good find! On a side-note: If I did find a 2 ohm 25 watt resistor such as below: I could just use this one resistor, connect one end to a 12V and connect all the + end of the injectors to the other?

Yes I did, but you posted the the 6.2 ohms / 10 watts, part#280-CR10-6.2-RC. These are the 6.8 ohms / 10 watt, part#280-CR10-6.8-RC. The current price for both the 6.2 ohms and the 6.8 ohms / 10 watts from Mousers for a set of 6 is $3.30 (without shipping). What still gets me (even with the multiple posts) is how to determine the resistor that will provide 2 ohms at the resistor. Since I will be wiring in parallel, one 12V power to the resistors, then from the resistors to the power side of the injectors, what still gets me is how to determine the resistor that will get 2 ohms (exact or as close to as possible) at the injector. Even with the formula and multiple posts, it still confuses me a bit. You mentioned that the ideal is to get around 2 ohms at the resistor and around 25 watts capacity. Ok, for the watt capacity we just add the individual capacity of the each resistors, so the ideal capacity would be a 5 or 6 watt resistor, but we opt to go 10 watts for safety and heating issues, that I get. So instead of the 30-36 watt total capacity of all six resistors, we now have a 60 watt total capacity. Wiring in parallel without banks like you did, would the 6.2 ohm or 6.8 ohm be more ideal?

Ok, so after much research I think I found the answer to this problem. I found some resistors that Jim Wolf sells with their ecu/injector upgrades. They're 6.8 ohm / 10 watts sold by VividRacing. http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/jwt-dropping-resistor-nissan-240sx-p-12658.html Upon reading numerous threads, this problem is actually a pretty universal thing with the import community. A lot of the DSM crowds, supra crowd, and even big turbo Honda crowd need to do this mod when updrading to bigger injectors. The consensus seems to be that the resistors need to be in the 6 ohm range and 10 watt range. So a 6 ohm / 6 watt resistor should work, but a 10 ohm / 10 watt resistor might be too much. I'm guessing the 6.8 ohm / 10 watt that Jim Wolf uses is the best bet. Here a great in-depth article on resistors for those who are interested: http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/resistor/res_1.html

Radioshack is probably the cheapest route other than swiping them at the junk yard (after hunting them down of course). Two relays will work, but I think the 30A is the more suitable one: 30A http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062477 40A http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3020762 However, there are mixed reviews about the quality and durability of these relays. For those who want the blue relays and can't find them at the junk, here's a like to an online retailer that carries them. Price wise I wouldn't know (haven't called them yet). If you click on the image of the relays, it'll take you to a page where you can view all the other Nissan relays they carry including the green ones mentioned earlier in this post. http://www.mynismo.com/products/?id=4869 Can anyone (...Careless?) post the part numbers of these blue ones for the sake of this post? The website where I found these ask for a part number for confirmation purposes.

Isn't this a Lotus Elise?

Sweeet...Thanks for the info. I imagine they're a lot cheaper than the Nissan originals too.

Just got my motor set today and the relays by the ecu are missing. There's two blue plugs (with no relays). Where can I find replacement relays for them? **This image was borrowed from Chris Rummel's wiring guide from the f.a.q section**

You should write a comparison once they get here. So I guess it does come down to the lobe designs and centerline of the camshafts. I guess the performance trade-offs are minimal then. Greddy cams have more duration, but Tomei cams have higher lift. I also assume the shorter duration on the Tomei would give a better idle? Still, the fact that the greddy cams are made to be drop-in cams, I would imagine that since they have lower lift than the Tomei, the wear-n-tear on the valvetrain wouldn't be too different from the Tomei either.

Why wouldn't you want 4.11's for daily driving? Don't the skylines come with 4.11 stock?