Phantom

It has been some time since I updated on my LS1 conversion. The car has about 4,000 miles on it now since the conversion and it has just been little things. They include - a thermostat that was sticky so it took 25 minutes to warm up in the winter, a pinhole leak in the radiator that required 8 oz. of coolant in a month, a broken bracket on the climate control system that was pumping hot air into the car continually, an AC system that was weak due to being short about one can of refrigerant, an engine warning light that fell out of its mounting bracket, and a leaky windshield gasket. All those have been fixed. The drivetrain, however, has been absolutely bullet proof. The LS1, T56, R200 LSD have performed beautifully. I was showing off for a new GTO Monday and lit up the rear tires on the 3-4 shift at 90+ mph. At the same time it's averaging about 20 mpg of combined driving in spite of the thermostat. Work still ahead includes opening up the exhaust, sealing a leak around the shifter, replacing the door seals, new Kumho Victoracers, a Porterfield pad upgrade on the front, and brake fluid replacement along with a litany of "make it pretty" items.

Drew, When you have him make the wheels have him mill the center hole perfectly so the wheel can be 'hub' centric like the OEM wheels rather than 'lug' centric like most aftermarket. That will give you a huge advantage when mounting and balancing. You're talking around $1,000-1,100 USD which is a great price for custom wheels. I agree with your 16" diameter. It keeps you at a 40-50 series side wall (depending on tire width) so you can handle most frost heaves, broken asphalt, etc. without bending the rims.

A little "historical" perspective here. Chrysler had 4-wheel disc brakes on their cars in the early 50's. They discontinued them because they cost more than drums and no one else went to them - economics. Nash built a small commuter car in the 50's. Similar in size to the Japanese cars of the 60's & 70's. Hardly anyone bought it so it was discontinued. Did you see the first Honda that came out in the early 70's? It was 4 wheels and a motorcycle engine. They've learned fast but don't talk to me about Japanese engineering and that car in the same sentence. The 340 ci V-8 Mopar had in the late 60's & 70's redlined from the factory at 6,500 RPM. The first 302 ci Z-28 was in that neighborhood. The 426 ci Hemi redlined as high as 8,000 - depending on which one you ordered. The reason Japanese motors rev so high is that they are small and have to rev to make the HP. HP is directly proportional to the amount of air an engine pumps. Conversely, lower revving engines tend to last longer - hence the larger displacement American engines. That also made them quieter and, when equivalently designed, longer lasting. I'm not knocking Japanese engineering - it's great - but don't sell the American engineering short. It is just restricted by economics and the bean counters that are in charge of most auto companies. I think the L28, a German design, is a great engine - but I pulled it and installed an LS1. Why - better technology and a whole lot more HP with greater reliability and easily obtainable parts.

Well - at least we're all still considered to be members. The post numbers seem to be right too.

XTC, You gunned it all down with the last sentence of your post. You're looking at a highly modified motor and you want reliability and easily available parts? That's an oxymoron. If you want reliability and easily obtainable parts keep the stock L28 and just improve its breathing a bit (intake, exhaust, cam). That won't cost a lot and the engine will run forever. If 150 rwhp isn't enough for you then you need to give ground on the reliability issue or swap in a higher HP stock configured motor. That is exactly why I put a stock LS1 in my car. Lots of HP and excellent reliability. It has started first time and run great since the day I brought it home.

MAS280, OK - that makes sense then. I have 1 1/2" collectors to a single 2 1/2" exhaust and street tires. Intake is about the same. With a 3.70:1 R200 in front of them and the gearing in the T56 I really have problems hooking up. I broke them loose Monday evening on a 3-4 shift at 90 MPH. Plan to change over to a single 3 1/2" exhaust as soon as I can set it up at the shop. I'll follow that with some Kumho Victoracers and things should improve at least into the low 12's.

Excellent numbers!!! What are you running for exhaust/intake? Obviously you've got some good tires under it to hook up well enough for a 1.6 60'. Mine dyno'd at only 311rwhp & 326rwtq. My tq & hp curves were nearly identical to yours except a bit lower and tq dropped faster after 5,200 rpm. Also only got a 12.9@110 but that was on a 2.05 60' and street tires.

Let's talk about what you're planning for tires first. It would also help to know which model Z you are planning to put them on. 260Z? If so, early or late body style?

You already know to get on LS1tech.com and and go to the Regional Section and look under Texas. I have seen several in there. You can also find local offerings on ebay. Third option is to get on http://www.junkyarddog.com and also to just call several of the local salvage yards in Ft. Worth & Kennedale. That is, unless you have lots of $$$ burning a hole in your pocket, then you could go to SL&S and get a new LS6/T56 combo for around $12,000!!??

Yes he did. He was having some engine/supercharger management problems for a while but I think he has it all resolved now. I know he had at least one dyno run with something like 400rwhp/420rwtq. If he can get some tires and keep his rear end together it will be an awesome car. It weighs in aaround 2,500 lbs. If you do a search and look at some of his more recent posts I believe he talks about it in one of them.

My 280Z28, over the past 12 years, has cost me about $350/month including insurance, repairs & upgrades. I also have a 280ZX that is costing me less than $250/month - but it is a weekly exercise in will power to not start upgrading it. I think I would eventually lose that resistance if it weren't for a long-term plan to pick up a used 350Z in about 2-3 years.

Lone Star 1 had the first LS1 swap in the area. The car has the 4L60E tranny and a mangna charger. He's running over 400/400 at the rear wheels. Great guy - let me borrow his helmet my first time at Ennis. Car ran in the 11's that night and he didn't have the supercharger yet!

No red in older cars. Get the piece out of another ZX or from the dealer.

David, Didn't mean to pirate your thread here. Welcome to the LS1 ranks! Hope you are very talented and have lots of $$$. It is going to be a great ride once you're done! Rufus, I saw a T56 with 40,000 miles on it yesterday on LS1tech.com for $1,000. As to your question about the Tremac - I assume a T-5? I don't know for sure - which manual tranny does GM normally provide with that engine? Changing transmissions will require reprogramming of the ECM but that is all. besides the normal stuff with the torque plate, bell housing, clutch, etc. My engine originally came with the 4L60E. It now has a T56 behind it and it works fine.

Jump fast guys - I just saw one in the "for sale" forum for $250!!!

I was just on LS1tech.com and saw a 5.3 with 4L60E tranny with only 14,000 miles on them for $1,500. I've seeen several decent deals on there recently.

What kind of racing are you planning? If it is crooked track then any wheel can work with the right tire. If you're planning on drag racing then the smaller diameter wheel that allows you more sidewall for wrinkle is the way to go. If you are planning on using it as a daily driver and have potholes, RR tracks, etc. - I'd opt for the 16's. Also - look at weight - heavier wheel/tire combinations are your enemy more so in drag racing than crooked track - but - for daily driving - it generally means a sturdier wheel less likely to deform when accidently pounded across a rough RR crossing. It's a compromise unless you single-purpose the car to one kind of competition use only and no daily driving. But, if that's the case, then you don't want any of these wheels!

Thanks Mike! Excellent article. It will definitely affect how I spend my money in the future.

Check your budget. Johns Cars in Dallas, TX makes a kit for the LS1 swap. Just motor & tranny mounts won't set you back too badly and then you can pick and choose from there. LS1 prices are coming down. They are available from '97 & up Corvettes and '98 & up Camaro Z28's, SS's, and Firebird Formulas & T/A's. You can also get them as a crate motor if you have lots & lots of money. With the LS2 coming out I would expect LS1 prices to drop even further. I saw a combination LS1 & T56 for sale the other day for $1,700. Downside was it had about 80,000 miles on it. For twice the price you could have a combo with 25-30,000 miles.

Slightly, but I don't have the number handy. Didn't have to go much though because the John's Cars engine mount accommodated for the steering shaft.

I thought that LS1 & LS6 shared the same block but that LS6 had improved intake manifold & heads. What is difference between LS1 & LS6 block?

Mike, Post your mom's feedback on the 350Z after she has had it a while. That is the exact car - right down to the color - that my wife wants to get. Thanks,

Cole, Man - am I jealous of your garage. It may not be big but with a hydraulic lift and that engine hoist it looks like you can do it all. Beautiful fleet of Z cars too!

$3,500 - depends on the components. If they are in excellent condition and relatively low mileage then that would be a steal. High mileage would be OK if everything checks out.

jared, Frequent that LS1tech website. I saw an LS1/T56 combo for sale on there for $1,700 about a week ago.