Phantom

280zen - Fan running while engine is running is waste. Fuel flow through the rail to the injectors will stay cool enough to not boil. It's only when it sits and doesn't move that enough heat soak can occur to boil the fuel. jjohart - You can go to the electrical board and see if someone can help out with wiring in a lower temp thermostat switch. You might also consider relocating the sensor to a spot that sees the heat sooner. You didn't answer as to whether your exhaust manifold heat shield is still in place. I assume it is? Another option would be to replace the sensor with a switch that has a timer that turns the fan on for about 10 minutes every time you turn the car off. That would be overkill but it would do the job. Now - the real question - what is not working or been changed? The fan has done the job on Z's for over 20 years. Works great on my '83. It was running in the 50° garage last week. THat tells me something has changed from the original Datsun design.

Maybe safety vs power-to-weight ratio is a misnomer. It's more like safety vs having a brain. Evaluating power in a Z and making appropriate structural changes to ensure the bodies integrity, upgrading suspension and braking, and other similar modifications are all good moves for the sake of the car. That is one reason why my car weighs about 2,900 lbs. - and is going to get heavier. The thing is - my car is designed to be a daily driver - and I'm 6'4" and 225 lb. My car has fiberglass ground effects - no bumpers of any kind. I do have an Autopower 4-pt. roll bar bolted into my fender wells but that is more for structural integrity rather than safety. I have driven a 280Z for 18 years now and have come to the uncomfortable conclusion that I'm going to take a massive beating if someone hits me. Knowing that, I have made the conscioius decision to continue driving a car that was built before crumple zones, ABS, air bags, etc. What I do that is even more effective than any of those, however, is that I drive "aggressively-defensively". I focus on my driving when I'm in the car. I NEVER drink so that is not going to affect my driving and I maintain a continual scan, not only in front but to my sides and rear. I have twice moved away from vehicles that were going to hit me from the rear becasue: 1) I saw them coming in my mirror, and 2) I had left myself an escape opening. Most drivers today are idiots so, to be safe, you have to learn to drive for them as well as yourself. I don't make a habit of racing on the street and I don't ever get real aggressive in my street driving without first considering the consequences. I own a really good helmet for the occaisional trips to the track and my car meets all the SCCA & NHRA requirements for a vehicle in its class. What that really means is that I ensure it is solid and very well maintained. I am not the fastest in anything but I sure do have a good time and enjoy my ride on a daily basis - and all the compliments it gets because of how well it is put together. My car would not work for someone that is planning on having a 10 second car or competing regularly in SCCA. It won't normally come in best in class at car shows but we keep each other alive and I enjoy the routing thumbs up from other drivers.

It sounds like you have a case of vapor lock. Your engine is boiling the fuel in the fuel rail when you are sitting parked. If you let it sit longer, or shorter, that won't happen - right? Do you have your exhaust heat shield in place? Do you have the fuel rail blower assembly in place with your engine? If youo'll thoroughly shield your fuel line - or insulate with a high temperature insulation your problem will go away. It should also go away if you have the blower installed and operational. "Renowned" dealership? If they were they would be able to work on a Z more than 10 years old. Most dealerships can't work on any car that doesn't have a computer hook-up anymore. Call around your area for a private repair shop that "specializes" in japanese cars especially if you see one that mentions "Datsun". that is where you will find the guy that was trained by the factory 25 years abo and actually knows how to work on your car. At least your dealer was honest with you. I went into the one that sponsors our Z club here in the local area to have some work done on my '77 280Z. they told me that they had no one trained on the car, had no service manual on the car, and probably didn't have the parts. Really makes you feel loved, doesn't it?

My T56 is running with an LS1 in a 280Z so, again. a slightly different application. Do yo have an early or late series 260? If you have a later production model (big bumper style) you'll configure more like a 280. If early it will be more like a 240. My shifter came up about 1/2" forward of the stock location but within the perimeter of the stock hole in the tunnel. Mine alsoneeded a little tapping on the tunnel on the passenger side to make enough room for the reverse lock-out switch. It didn't require any trimming though.

For what it is worth, Lanes Wholesale Tire & Wheel in Irving, TX, http://www.lanesperformance.com does a lot more than just wheels & tires. They also will fabricate and install exhaust systems up to 4" in diameter. Not cheap, but I'm looking at a 3.5" on my 280Z28.

Well, yes and no. JCI made the torque tube arrangement on my car but it apparently is a one-of-a-kind. After developing it John felt it was too complicated and expensive - lots of little parts and complicated shapes - so he re-eingineered the kit with a more conventional cross member. It sure is impressive though!

I took the 280Z28 to a place in Irving, TX , http://www.lanesperformance.com They do custom engine installs, exhaust work, wholesale wheels & tires, etc. I wanted them to quote on converting erxhaust from 2.5" to 3.5". $500! The good news, however, was their reaction to the LS1 install in the car. They couldn't say enough good things about it. Of particular interest, however, was their impression of the modified torque-tube transmission to differential mount. They must have looked at it 4 or 5 times each time commenting on how slick it was. I took some photos of the underside with a disposable camera so I'll have to have them develped. Underside is really bsuy though so the details will be non-existent. For you guys going for headers with 1 3/4" primaries - stay after it. That will help your performance.

Get the car ready first - then go for th edrivetrain. There are plenty of them around and your options may actually increase after a little more time goes by - like an LS2!?

Dang! That's like getting an Oscar - right down to the difficulty and the acceptance speech!! Congratulations!

To All: When you call JCI be sure you are actually talking to John. There are others that get on the phone. Once you have John also be sure to let him know that your calling based on my recommendation (Bill Davis). Be patient, be polite and it will work out. You will just have to warm up to each other. LS1 conversion kits constitute about 1/2 of 1% of his business. In other words, at this point, he really doesn't care if he sells one or not. If the numbers increase and he realizes it has potential it will get better. I know that he already has a 280Z, 280ZX and Z31 chassis on his property to be able to do more development at a future date - if the business warrants it.

For obvious reasons I spend some time over on the LS1tech.com site and the folks there use a lot of $%^&*. I really don't find any positive side to it. As a matter of fact, I found myself thinking a couple days ago about how much I appreciate the guys on this forum and the restraint they show in that area. Thanks to all for making this forum a pleasant place to read and post!

Joey - Welcome to the forum and the land of LS1!!! Great to hear of someone else who has JCI stuff and that it works as advertised. I'm available for email questions if you have any as your project goes on.

Dang! This has to be the longest first page of any post in the history of the forum! alternator - can mount low or high on drivers side or high on passenger side - your choice. AC compressor - can mount high on passenger side if stock unit used. If the JCI unit is used it can mount either side. It is much shorter in length tha the OEM unit. If the alternator were high on passenger it might even be able to mount low on driver side but I doubt it. Transmission mount - maybe Gary can shed some light there as he has the new one. Gary - you've let the cat out of the bag! I have mixed emotions aabout a fuel cell becuase of having to make it work with the datsun gauge - or replacing all the gauges. That may be the only option though with the 240. Since the 280 was set up for FI it was no problem just to toss a higher capacity pump into the stock location and go.

David, Minor correction. John won't sell his other components if you don't get his engine mounts. His mounts don't require that you use all the other stuff but they are required to make his other stuff work. I have evaluated the layout and both the alternator and AC compressor could be mounted in different locations. The advantage of this layout is that one is a stock location and by placing the AC compressor where he did we were able to use the stock accessory drive components, including the stock serpentine belt. The transmission mount will allow you to run dual 2.5" exhaust if that helps. It's harder with the 4L60E than the T56 but it works. The engine mount brings the gearshift up about 1/2" forward of the stock location in a 280Z. If you can use that as a reference for your 240Z then glad to help. The biggest thing about the components is the amount of work you don't have to do. He uses a recored stock radiator so there is no fabrication to do there and I'll definitely vouch for its effectiveness when used in conjunction with the Z28 fan shroud and fans. That's the other thing - the Z28 shroud and fans only require a small amount of trimming to fit like they were made for the Z radiator. His vital fulids kit gets you the hoses you need for radiator & heater hook-ups. You can source those yourself no real problem - it just will take a little time. The headers are headers. No big deal. But they do come with the 02 sensor bungs. You can cut up the stock exhaust manifolds a bit and move your steering arm slightly and make the stockers work. I've really tried to not come across as a salesman for his stuff but, since I'm the only one with very thorough first-hand knowledge of it, I will attempt to clarify any issues. Anyone can PM or direct email me any time with questions. If you are in the DFW area I'm even willing to meet and let you look at the car. One other item. John does come across on the phone as rude. I've been to his place many times and you just have to understand the literal hundreds of calls he gets from guys that just want free information. He also has a very dry sense of humor that can be mistaken for rudeness. I had to learn that one myself. If you give him the benefit of the doubt you'll find him to be a very knowledgable guy and, at least in my case, a good friend.

Since my car was the prototype for the Johns Cars conversion components I have to chime in here. I agree completely with Gary. It seems that facts seem to get twisted based on perspective. I've seen Johns price list and it's about $2,200 for everything, not over $3,000. Also, if I remember my conversations with John, you're not required to purchase all the parts. Example: if you don't have AC and are using an electronically driven speedometer the price quickly drops below $1,500. Another thing, John is a no-nonsense type of guy who is in business to make money, not to be a free information source for every enthusiast with a question. He's a business man and needs to spend his time doing things that further his business. He actually developed this kit as a favor to me. I twisted his arm to get him to do it. I will personally vouch for the time invested and the overall quality of the components. The installation is fully thought through and avoids a lot of pitfalls that folks fall into when doing it themselves because they "just didn't know". Do a search on this site under "LS1 / T56 Update" and read my posts that were done as the work progressed and also the ones since I got the car back. Several guys on this forum have seen the car and fully appreciate the quality of the installation - it looks OEM. I guess I just value my time too much. Like Gary I'm willing to spend a few extra dollars to speed up my project and avoid a lot of heartache and chin scratching. I'd much rather be out driving the car and chalking up the "kills" than be a member of Jackstand Racing - no offense intended there guys. If this offends anyone I apologize now. I just hate to see a guy I know personally get disparaged and not shed a little light from the other side. Bill Davis

iaconsultants, Pull up the third link in my signature and show the "sexy" engine bay to your wife.

When we were doing the LS1 install on my 280Z we really didn't want to add an additional light for the OBD II "Check Engine" light so we used an existing light. This light also flashes on as the key passes through the "accessory" position on the way to "start" to repeatedly verify that the light is functioning. How appropriate is it that now when I go to start my car the red "Fasten Seatbelts" light flashes?!! Now if I could just figure out how to get it to also say "Hold on and Shut up".

Touch base with Al at http://www.chipsbyal.com. He'll do an edit pretty reasonably.

One more item - turns out the frame that holds the shifter boot in place had lost 3 of 4 of its screws. Replaced the weak OEM version with some hex head metal screws about twice the diameter & cranked them down hard. Absolutely no heat infiltration into car now and it is also much quieter. I can talk to myself without shouting now. Hopefully this week I'll get a quote on the exhaust upgrade to 3 1/2" and a set of Victoracers. My Porterfield pads are due in via UPS sometime this week. Getting ready for the big day out at Texas Motor Speedway.

Somebody needs to let Lone Star 1 know these times. Sounds like the gauntlet is down!!

I once had a neighbor that got so pissed about my sons friend parking, barely, in front of one corner of his property - 30' from mailbox and around the corner from his driveway, that he called the cops on him twice. THe second time the cop told him he would get the ticket if he called again about a legally parked vehicle. Then he put roofing nails out in the spot where the kid usually parked - on a public street!!! where little kids were riding bikes, etc. What a moron! Thank God he finally moved away - after his wife left him.

Qwik240z Everyone mounts their systems a bit differently. Lone Star 1 actually mounted his alternator backwards - sticking out in front of the engine to clear his mounts. He also opened up a larger hole in his firewall and moved his steering rod about 3/8" to clear the stock LS1 exhaust manifold. My alternator (Stock LS1) is mounted low on the drivers side and clears the crossmember by about 1/16". The AC compressor is above it in the original power steering pump location. The Japanese compressor is a compact, high-efficiency unit and fits very well. That leaves the "high on the passenger side" idler position available for an ATI Pro-charger at a later date. It also allows using the original serpentine belt. The John's Cars mounts and headers locate the engine so the transmisssion shifter comes up about 1/2" forward of the stock location, the steering gear arm does not require moving at all, and the mounts bolt to the original Datsun mounts on the crossmember. My transmission mounting system is unique. It is a modified torque tube design using C-channel that John abandoned in favor of a simpler cross mount that bolts into your floor pan. Mine bolts the transmission tailshaft to the R200, locking the two units together. The radiator is my original radiator recored to 4 rows. It solves the problem of sealing the mounting area in the front of the car so all the air goes through the radiator rather than around it. It also uses the Z28 fan shroud assembly which, with minor trimming, fits lthe Z radiator like it was made for it. I had a few photos in my album - when I used to have an album. If you'll PM me your email address I can send a few pictures to you. They aren't good enough to build from but they'll give you a good idea of the approach.

It has been some time since I updated on my LS1 conversion. The car has about 4,000 miles on it now since the conversion and it has just been little things. They include - a thermostat that was sticky so it took 25 minutes to warm up in the winter, a pinhole leak in the radiator that required 8 oz. of coolant in a month, a broken bracket on the climate control system that was pumping hot air into the car continually, an AC system that was weak due to being short about one can of refrigerant, an engine warning light that fell out of its mounting bracket, and a leaky windshield gasket. All those have been fixed. The drivetrain, however, has been absolutely bullet proof. The LS1, T56, R200 LSD have performed beautifully. I was showing off for a new GTO Monday and lit up the rear tires on the 3-4 shift at 90+ mph. At the same time it's averaging about 20 mpg of combined driving in spite of the thermostat. Work still ahead includes opening up the exhaust, sealing a leak around the shifter, replacing the door seals, new Kumho Victoracers, a Porterfield pad upgrade on the front, and brake fluid replacement along with a litany of "make it pretty" items.

Drew, When you have him make the wheels have him mill the center hole perfectly so the wheel can be 'hub' centric like the OEM wheels rather than 'lug' centric like most aftermarket. That will give you a huge advantage when mounting and balancing. You're talking around $1,000-1,100 USD which is a great price for custom wheels. I agree with your 16" diameter. It keeps you at a 40-50 series side wall (depending on tire width) so you can handle most frost heaves, broken asphalt, etc. without bending the rims.

A little "historical" perspective here. Chrysler had 4-wheel disc brakes on their cars in the early 50's. They discontinued them because they cost more than drums and no one else went to them - economics. Nash built a small commuter car in the 50's. Similar in size to the Japanese cars of the 60's & 70's. Hardly anyone bought it so it was discontinued. Did you see the first Honda that came out in the early 70's? It was 4 wheels and a motorcycle engine. They've learned fast but don't talk to me about Japanese engineering and that car in the same sentence. The 340 ci V-8 Mopar had in the late 60's & 70's redlined from the factory at 6,500 RPM. The first 302 ci Z-28 was in that neighborhood. The 426 ci Hemi redlined as high as 8,000 - depending on which one you ordered. The reason Japanese motors rev so high is that they are small and have to rev to make the HP. HP is directly proportional to the amount of air an engine pumps. Conversely, lower revving engines tend to last longer - hence the larger displacement American engines. That also made them quieter and, when equivalently designed, longer lasting. I'm not knocking Japanese engineering - it's great - but don't sell the American engineering short. It is just restricted by economics and the bean counters that are in charge of most auto companies. I think the L28, a German design, is a great engine - but I pulled it and installed an LS1. Why - better technology and a whole lot more HP with greater reliability and easily obtainable parts.