Heroez

A machine shop can get it out. Same thing happened to me, but mine came out by using a left handed cobalt drill bit. Once it bottomed out the broke off part came right out. Broken bolt extraction is not an ideal novice project when its on a valuable part.

Ha! I dont know who is worse off, me or the 83. We have the same problem, we can get started but dont go very well.

The rep for our supplier says the air powered guns are about 200 dollars. The one in my picture is a Swiss made gun by Mixpac. Type DP 400-85. Its been used for over 8 years and will go several more. It will likely be operating the day its phased out. Yes its been dropped a lot. Had cartridges explode in it. Its so robust I havent seen or payed attention to another brand or model. Sorry about the confusing posts. My concentration is not good. Spent a day out in a drizzle rain chasing a ghost on an 83 turbo and got sick.

If you dont want to spend a bunch of money on a pneumatic gun, the 08115 is the way to go. If you do this a lot, get 08274 and the pneumatic gun. I will get a current price for the larger gun and report back.

I would use 08274 because the cartridge fits into my pneumatic glue gun. I could empty that cartridge in less than a minute. The 08115 is made to fit a smaller gun and the small one I have is hand powered. It would take much longer to get all around the the car with manual cartridge panel bond. The difference between the 2 is the lable, quantity and cartridge style. The goo inside is the same.

I use 08115 panel bond. 08274, Its used to bond fiberglass to metal by motor manufactures, and other uses. Its basicly the same thing as panel bond, but small differences that dont really matter much. Both of them are much better than Fusor that used to be commonplace 10 years ago. For making the transition from fiberglass to steel, panel bond would be a great added step to the bonding process. There are other 2 part products that are handy too. There is a plastic repair material with work time as fast as 50 seconds, 3 minute, that comes in handy for repairing ABS type plastics. Bumper covers, plastic trim. Clear epoxies. You can use denatured alcohol to wipe around edges and it wont interfere with the curing of the epoxy. Another tip on cleaning up is to allow it to wait untill it starts to kick to clean it up. Wait for the stage when its like wax, and trim excess with a razor, pulling it off. Any residue on a surface is easily cleaned up right after trimming. You can treat edges like caulking to give a clean look. Mask off the lines, smooth it down and then pull off the tape.

Wow. Its like a dream come true in full detail. What do I have to do to make a car like that? Im not able to do it on a bodymans salary. Any suggestions? Thanks a million for posting the thread and pictures. Very inspiring!

I had that problem with the replacement precision door seal. Turns out it was operator error. I didnt have the door seal seated properly. I had to tap it with a mallet all the way around. So many people couldnt figure it out that the complaints ended the weatherstrip kits production and sale. Im very happy with the Precision weatherstripping kit when installed properly, works great and looks good. I wish I could buy one for my 240z. Maybe in the future it will be available.

Its likely that the door striker is too far in. Mark its position with a grease pencil, crayon, whatever you use so it can be wiped clean later. Take loose the 3 bolts at the body door jam. Slide the striker away from the car all the way out. Tighten it up there. Now test the door. Adjust to satisfaction. May take several or 1 adjustment. If this does not work, you may have another problem.

The door is out of adjustment. Something stuck in the door jam. Door seal not seated properly. Sprung door hinge. Something stuck in the door hinge. Damaged striker or latch. The more you slam the door, the more damage is done, and the worse you look. 30 minutes at a competant bodyshop and its likely your problem will be over.

Observations on what is what written several times, and what is written is what I doubt. Ive seen people swap out their bad tachometer with a known good one (and other parts) just to end up with the same problem. Some people troubleshoot, others guess and swap parts. Is the tach bad? Maybe. I cant say unless I can look at the tach and its associated wiring myself. I can speculate only. I like the stories about blown fuses myself. "Every time I replace the fuse it blows out." That is because the fuse is doing what it should, you likely have a short. It always makes me chuckle. I wonder how many fuses it takes before they realize they are not fixing anything.

I have read that now that you mention it. My 260z tach is fine, so I dont believe everything I read. There is so much bad information floating around I trust my experience first. You are right about swapping the face. As for the internals, they look the same as the 280 ones. Eyeballs like butt dynos are not accurate in any measurements. Oh, windex will remove the paint on the gauge face. Use a dry cloth only!

A lot of confused people and bad information. 79-81 you could have a Grand Luxury or the Deluxe. I have 4 s130s. 1980 GL, 1980 Deluxe, 1982 NA, 1983 turbo. The deluxe manual I have came with the r180. If you want to know the facts on the deluxe models from 79-81, PM me, or read my multiple posts on zcar.com regarding the Deluxe.

Some states require bumpers. Check local laws before crossing state lines.

the 260z tach is best because internally its the same as the 280z but the face has the correct carb redline. The 280z tach has its redline 500 rpm lower due to the increased displacement.

I work in the industry and this is what you should use. Same thing Freightliner uses to glue on their fiberglass roof caps. With a 90 minute work time you likely wont need more than one mixing nozzle. Panel bond would work to. I have extra cases of new cartridges of both. Let me know how many cartridges you want and I can save you a few bucks.

It happens. I keep thinking about flaring the fenders on a S30. Like one thats been in a fender bender where its not cutting up a good car. Its pretty straight forward. For me its finding the blocks of time to do it. I can tell you how, but I cant do it myself here at the time. It would be best to use a hydraulic ram, port o power type, collision repair tool. The different length rods will be a big help. It comes with a rubber end to not damage contact surfaces, but personally would use a flat foot attachment and use a block of wood as an interface between the ram and the metal skin of the fender. This way you arent stretching a small area, but moving the larger area of the block of wood. Plant a tree to give thanks to the wood spirits. With their blessings, we can make the great fire. A man makes the fire, and uses it as seen in his vision, and it consumes him and burns the old away. From the fire comes creation. Only by performing the vision on earth, can the powers of the vision be used. Not a wheel opening. Flared metal fenders. Rare, nice.

So there is quite a gap between a bolt on, and full wide body when you look at materials and labor. The look is up to you. Look what can happen with zg flares and some different colored primer, and a style in mind.

This is a friends car. Some of the original parts that came off of it was used to fix wreck damage on my 260z. Just its unused parts make my car look better. Stupid toyota drivers!

Slightly different execution of the rear quarter.

You could flip a coin if you are incapable of decision making... This is an example of a clear plan and extraordinary execution.

Thats pretty much how it goes, besides the rice crispies. That is called making a form. If using fiberglass I would start with thin cardboard to make the basic shape. Cover that with masking tape. Resin doesnt stick to masking tape. Lay out the fiberglass and brush on the resin. Adding a couple layers so its thick enough to use a die grinder on with a 3 inch grinding disc. I wouldnt attach the form to the car untill its 95 percent the way I wanted it. My initial cardboard form would be made on the fender though, then removed for working it to perfection. Here is fiberglass to inspire you. Notice the airdam is molded into the fender and the rear quarter is more than an enlarged wheel opening. The bumper is out of adjustment, and the fiberglass is a bit lumpy in spots at the transition points, but all in all its a good job. It wouldnt take much to fix the bad spots but it would require repainting.

Agreed. Its funny to see a vehicle that is half tupperware. How many people saw the ragged broken up flare on a truck bed? A shard of that hit my car once. You can imagine my state of mind. Ive worked with those a few times. They are junk. Its like ABS plastic.

Since interest in this topic is bigger, lets go on. As for the many mentions of the aero and race body styling, its something we can run with. Lets say the idea is the point right between full widebody and a flared wheel opening. Bodykit comes to mind, but we want to take it a step further. More hands on, and labor intensive. Like stated earlier with the subtle look, and also the necessity for making something by adding labor. For example, adding 2 inches outward at wheel well, molding it in completely with the body smoothly. No visible transition. You are better off getting resin and fiberglass rather than finding the right piece. This also hits a boundry with working the metal. Instead of adding more and more fiberglass, you just add the sheet metal. Its in the area where you cant just buy it, and is more about skill and execution of the individual.