Heroez

Update- I drained a quart of the 15w 50 and added the ATF. I drove maybe 15 miles, then parked it for the night. Im hoping Tomorrow or Monday the clacking lifter arms at start up goes away. I will let you know what the result is. Castrol syntech is now called Castrol edge. I didnt see Rotella at 2 different stores. Was thinking of trying a 10w or 5w 30 at oil change. Not sure yet.

Thank you for adding your experience. I may try the Rotella T after running the ATF through it and I go to change the oil. Im just now getting home from work, and the sun is setting. I will be able to try the ATF and check under the valve cover this weekend, so keep an eye on me please. I would like to add a resolution to this thread one way or another.

I see. I remember the pump has to be timed. That is nice that it isnt an ordeal to change. Mine has just over 200k on it so I keep a watch on oil pressure. I will read up and do what I can to clean the lifters. Starting small and go from there.

Im sorry. I was confused. I have been thinking of the front cover lately. I am still a student on the motor, but learning. Its nice to know that most get dirty. Seems like something that is fixable without a big fuss. Would you happen to know any tips on getting them clean? If they are dirty. When I changed the oil it was so dark black. Took a cheapy fram filter off it that the tire place used. Love the tires though. Ah, now it makes sense. I knew the wiper arm was being beat up by the cam... you made it click as to why. Thanks for the advice on what to look for. I feel like I have to do an inspection of some sort. You can relate, Im sure. Its nice to have you guys here.

Will do. Thanks for clarification. The cars history folder had that oil type written on it, and there was a spare quart in the hatch bin. It matched up with a recommendation, so I Just use mobile 1 15w 50. Its something I should look into more on oil choice. At 60 dollars in oil and filter, maybe an alternative would be helpful. Oddly, most stores dont carry that here.

Hey, thanks for the reply. Your experience/wisdom is greatly appreciated! Im surprised I had not heard of this problem before. I will follow your advice, and report results. So basicly Im going to drain a quart of the new oil and add the ATF. You mentioned a couple days. How long should ATF be used? A week, or the next oil change?

Did the oil change. Wix filter, Mobile 1 15w 50. It didnt do it for a couple days. This morning the rapid tapping/slapping sound was back. Just at initial start up for a second or two. Tried to search "lifter slap" but didnt get much. Is there damage markers I should look for under the valve cover? It seems bad for the car when it does it. If the oil pump needs replacing, can you lift/support the engine, then remove the front cross member to let the oil pan drop?

Looking for a 1979 280zx main gauge cluster (speedo, tach) any color housing. Or a 125 mph 1979 280zx speedometer. Please PM me if you have one to sell. Thank you.

Thanks for the tip on checking the cam. On my dished piston motor it will be mid 9 compression. It will be the only mod on the car and not that big of a deal as far as results either. Just an availability kind of thing. I expect it will be something similar to a flat top p79 type motor. Im not an expert in this area but it seems in my student theory that using the mn47 with flat top pistons at 11 : 1 you could run a medium+ /long duration cam on 93 octane with overlap and be on the ragged edge. The head is a good design to be able to pull something like that off. Maybe back initial timing off a hair. I dunno. Kinda makes me wonder what the maxima head can do with triple carbs or itbs, opened up. Mine will be in the mid 9 CR so the theory is just out of interest. What would you do with one?

Im going to have to replace a head gasket in my stock/no mod 80 zx. So it has dished pistons, and n47 head. I have a complete mn47 head. I figure why not toss in the mn47 since the head has to come off? Then we come to the cam, and valves. I was kinda thinking along the lines of Leon/Gollum. Use L28 valves and cam, leaving the 2.4 designed cam and valves behind.

Even on a dished piston motor you get a nice bump in compession. My question has always been about the valves. Keep them or go larger? Everyone seems to disagree.

Someone told me they had one of the plastic ones pop sideways on them, making them lose chain tension...

Im ordering one.

If I had a lifestyle that afforded me more time I probably would make one. In my case the hour or so it would take to make a wedge, to me, is worth more than the $10-15 it would cost to pluck it out of the mail box and be done with it. I will spend that hour starting the process of removing the head to see what the heck is making me burn coolant through the exhaust.

Lets buy some. I have a head gasket to tackle! I never used one before. Are there any tips on using it? Does it snap in, or you use a mallot?

This look Ok? http://www.toolsmithonline.com/products/Powerbuilt%C2%AE-Nissan-Timing-Chain-Holding-Tool.html

It didnt make that noise this morning. Im still going to do to do the filter/oil change ASAP.

I always need some work done. Im weak at mechanical, but trying. Want to do a zx head gasket? Well, it seems like a gasket with coolant going out the exhaust. I suppose it could be worse, damaged head.

Oh, Ok. I will start with an oil change with a quality filter and see if it helps. I got tires recently maybe a month ago, and had them change the oil while they had it. They may have used a crappy oil filter. I will post any updates. It must be my lucky week because my car didn't want to start after work. Turn key, wait for fuel prime, Click. Hmmm. Click. It did this like 5 times. I wiggled the wires going to starter. Click. Then next try it started up. I don't have a lot of confidence in this car right now. Have to drive it to work tomorrow. I guess I will keep my fingers crossed and hope for the best.

Stock 83 turbo car, 199k on odometer, hydraulic head, recent oil change. Last couple days when I start the car in the morning it makes a loud slapping/knocking sound for a second then stops. It seems to be coming from and in time with the motor. After that it goes away. I dont hear it on the next start that day or during driving. Any insight on what it may be?

In less than 30 seconds I found 4 threads that accurately told how to ID the transmission. Yet here we are. What shall we discuss next? Differences between a 240 and 280? How to get more HP out of a L28?

My point is search.

Now when you are at the junk yard with a salt shaker and see there is no number beginning with "F" on the transmission, maybe, you will resort to searching an already well documented subject for good information. Then, you will know how to tell the difference between them.

Ugh

There is rumored to be a sequence of numbers and letters on the transmission housing that begin with "F". It is said that if you take the first number of that sequence, multiply it by 2, spin around three times and sprinkle salt on your left foot, then take half of your number and that tells you if it is a 4 speed or 5 speed. Works every time.