WHP
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Posts posted by WHP
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I had the same set up on almost the same engine. The carb comes stock with #51 main jets. I ended up with #49. I am at 3000' altitude so the factory jets would have been dead on at sea level. I also had to change the pump cam to purple. These small jets do NOT come in the Holly jet kit assortment, they have to be purchased seperately. Like the previous posts said, get a good manual. I have the Haynes Holly Carburetor Manual and like it. BTW, my carb and manifold is For Sale in the classifieds here as I no longer need it.
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ZCARNUT,
What year Z31 lugnuts did you use? I'm having trouble finding a lugnut that will work. Thanks
Will
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I was seriously looking at the 15" Konigs. Can you guys chime in with some facts please.
Is it a fact they clear the AZ racing front brake conversion?
What size wheels and tires is anyone running on a lowered 240Z without problems with the Konigs?
Thanks,
Will
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Lewis,
I run the R160 LSD from 80's Subarus. I had one in a turbo 510 that had 250-275 HP and it held up. I run them in my 240Zs too. They are stong enough if you are not a clutch dumper/drag racer. They are lighter and well suited for autoX and track days. I paid $100 each at the JY. If LSD they have a silver tag on the rear stating LSD. Most are 3:70, 4:11s are rare. You have to swap in your side companion flanges to bolt to the halfshaft (one bolt each axle stub).
Will
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I had the MSA 3-2-1 header and it fit terrible. The ports were way out of alignment and the collector was a hack job inside, so bad I never installed it. The header weighed about 12 lbs if memory serves me. A P79 (big 280 roundport) cast iron manifold was about 24 lbs. I laid an E31, N42, and P79 exhaust manifolds on the bench side by side for comparison and the early 240Z manifold while well designed looked too restrictive for a L28. The P79 roundport had the biggest volume runners and they are seperated inside the manifold, so I ported it out to match my square port head. I also worked on the area where the twin downpile connects with the grinder to smooth the transition and port match to the twin tubes. I then fitted a custom long twin tube downpipe with a 2.5" smooth collector to a 2.5" exhaust. The car runs very well and will never have an exhaust leak! I will live with the extra 12 lbs for the $$ as this is a daily driver. My exhaust now resembles a Tri-Y. The car does not feel like the exhaust is a handicap. It is a L28 bored 1 mm, flattops, with a ported E31 head with bigger valves and a .490 Isky cam.
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I just had the same thing happen with an Isky L490 cam! The lash clearance was set correct for sure I confirmed it twice. The guy that did my head work was experienced, but I wonder if he failed to have the spring perches milled off resulting in excessive valve spring pressure? I can't imagine he got the wipe pattern wrong on all cylinders. I called a Nissan expert that swares by Isky cams and he said he has seen a few do this due to bad metalergy. He breaks in the new cams at 2000 rpm with only one spring, then puts the full springs in. I put a stock cam/head back on and lost almost 20 mph on top end. Guess I'll redo my good head again. I was using a spray bar and internal oiling and checked with the valve cover off and it was oiling good.
Hey Silent, better flush and change your oil about 5 times!
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You are right, it's not too hard for those who can do light fabricating. Be advised that the Z frame rails are thin. A crossmember to tie the frame rails together is popular if you are going to thrash it hard.
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350Z, The 390 came stock with # 51 main jets. I got best results with #49. Rule of thumb is reduce one jet size for each 1000' altitude increase.
Will
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I am using the AZ 4bbl manifold with a Holly 390 cfm on a stock 2.8 with flat top pistons. It works well. I live at 2800 ft so I had to go down two jet sizes and change the accelerator pump cam to get rid of a bad stumble. The benefits of the 4V are electric choke (no choke cables), no dampener oil to refill, tidier engine bay, and easy to find parts. There are NO cylinder distribution issues with the AZ set-up. I could not tell any power difference over my home rebuilt SU's with the tricks shown in the Z Therapy video. I never had problems with either SU's or 4 bbl once set up properly. Jetting the SU's spot on is a little harder because needle profile is more difficult to modify compared to changing jets, cams, and power valves. BTW, the small main jets needed are not in the standard Holly jet package, they have to be bought in seperate pairs. MPG was unchanged between the two. My case is comparing good SU's to good 4V set-up, not the usual situation. Just my .02.
Will Piatt
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I used a line lock on my 510 after converting to rear disc brakes. Went to work and failed to get it all the way in reverse gear and the line lock bled down. I got paged to come get my car. It had rolled down a slight hill and into the wall just missing the front glass entrance door. Damaged my beautiful red 1 week old paint job not to mention the egg on my face.
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Thanks guys. I was looking at Sanderson SBF 64-68 Mustang headers. They may be worth the shipping costs to try? At least they angle toward the rear instead of putting a 90 degree elbow at the end of the collector. Anybody tried a trial fit with them?
Will
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Would everyone using them chime in on brand and fitment please?
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After doing searches and coming up empty I have a question. Has anyone tried the Sanderson FF3 small block Ford headers for early Mustangs? I am using Ansil's mount, meaning the motor is centered in the engine bay. I am not happy with a 90 degree elbow at the end of the collector ( I've seen the effects on industrial blower efficiency). If not, they have a 100% return policy, minus freight so I am leaning on gambling if nobody has any info.
Will
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Anybody done it? I too don't like the block huggers because of the sharp turn after the collector. My first choice would be an unequal length shorty header exiting closer to the motor mount but slanting toward the rear. Is there a HP factory cast iron manifold that exits in good location I could maybe port and extrude hone capable of handling a 350 ft lbs torque engine?
Will
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My early 260Z 5.0 conversion is starting to take shape after collecting parts for about 1.5 years. Been Datsun wrenching for 28 years. New to Ford however. Anybody got a web site or book specifically that details swaping a '92 5.0 GT to new aftermarket cam, heads, and conversion to a carb. I know about the distrubutor, but intake plumbing , new roller rockers, pushrods, AFR heads, and Edelbrock intake with carb is what I need. I think I know the basics, but heater hoses, PVC, water pump rotation, firing order, holes to block off etc. and any other quirks would be nice? I don't want ot miss anything first time around. Or at least a check list of all tasks. Thanks.
Will
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I went from Nissan EI to MSD6BTM on a turbo L-4 in a 510. It made a noticiable difference at high boost (14-21 psi). It eliminated the high boost miss. I could tell no difference at idle.
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It is a beautiful engine to the eye. It looks tall, so check the height too. I am afraid it will come with a significant weight gain.
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What are the specs on that engine? I'm local and might take it off your hands for a spare if the price is right.
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I made a pushing tool to remove the rubber. Steel bar stock bolts to the three strut tower bolts on top of the cup. The steel bar has a big nut welded to the center. I use a bolt thru the nut to put pressure to push out the rubber while I heat the metal cup with a torch. The rubber will pop out and then can be shaved about .5" thinner. I shaved it on a table saw with a junk blade. The top of the rubber then must be contoured to fit back into the cup and glued in place. Not a fun job but nets 1/2" lowering with no loss of suspension travel. I've been driving my car like this for a year and it works fine.
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In true Hybrid spirit, go for it! Sometimes it's the journey more than the destination that is fullfilling. My old Datsuns have provided me a "rolling classroom" for 25 years with many hours of learning and fun at a very reasonable cost. I never have had a truely finished project. Soon as it's finished I would drive it for 10K miles then disassemble and upgrade again based on what I learned. FUN FUN FUN. I've heard it said new cars have advanced significantly, but their fun factor has not.
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Bob, I'm really curious...
1) what brand long tube headers did you use?
2) how far did they hang down under the car?
Thanks, Will
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I have been using an asphalt/adhesive/aluminum backed product called "Peel and Seal" that sounds EXACTLY like the Brown Bread. I bought it at the building supply store and it comes in a roll aprox. 36"x 70ft for about $70. It is used mainly for mobile home roof repair. It must be applied when temps are warm.
Will
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Here is the route I chose after much research.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0307_ford/index.html
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The bad news... I have egg on my face.
The good news... I should have looked closer before posting. ALL my R200 diffs, both u-jointed and CV axled halfshafts are the pop in style.
So now the question is: Where is the best deal on getting a Quaife put in it?
At least I can admit my mistakes, right?
Bottom alternator bolts keep coming out!!
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
And use a nylon stop nut on that bolt!