WHP
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Posts posted by WHP
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I have often thought about this. Turbo parts for the KA24DE engine are harder to come by, but the potential is good. Weight distribution would be improved too. Try it and let us know.
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Right, the cars did not stink when they were new. When the window is opened the inside of the car becomes negative pressure sucking air in anywhere it can. Check hatch seal, taillight gaskets, signal bulb sockets, rubber body hole plugs in rear hatch floor area, rust holes in spare tire well, gromets around emission hoses behind the rear interior panel, leakage thru rear hatch latch into rear hatch (pressboard cover panel is probably warped and leaky by now), quarter panel or inner fender well rust holes, exhaust system leaks near the shifter boot, etc. There are a lot of possible air entries on a 30 yr old car.
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I too have to endorse the NGK. However, the first 240Z I purchased used in 1975 had a set of ESSO or EXXON plugs that were much superior to anything else I have ever used. I would put in new Champions, AC, etc... only to end up sandblasting the ESSO plugs and putting them back in. They were better worn out than anything else new. Anyone know who was the manufacturer of these?
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Thanks for the replies. Well on my home made tester the Motorsports springs were softer than the ST which were bottoming out in the back with new KYB shocks. I sent the springs back and bought front and rear sport springs from Arizona Z and cut 1-1/4 coils off. That dropped me about an inch. The KYBs lacked enough rebound to control the AZ springs. I bit the bullet and put in Tokico Illuminas set on #2 front, #3 rear with polyurethane bumpstops. Very firm but not jarring. I am VERY happy now! I can really push it hard on the rough mountain roads. I only changed the back strut spring and shock combinations 10 times before arriving at my final set up, whew.
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ZR8ED,
What shocks are the successful setups using?
Thanks.
Will
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Well I got the Arizona Z rear springs and cut 1-1/3 coils off and the ride height is about 1.5" lower than stock and just the right stiffness for me. However the new KYB gas struts are definitely not up to the task, not enough rebound dampening. I'll have to try something else.
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Yeah, I ordered a set of rears from Arizona Z this week. I'm going to cut until I get it where I want. I'm happy with the ST fronts for now. I'm running KYBs so in about a week I'll let you know if they can tame them. FWIW I made a spring tester out of a metal base with an upright pipe. I slide the spring over the pipe and measure the length then stack 450# of my exercise plates on top of the spring then remeasure the length and calculate the weight per inch. Not perfect, but I can compare springs. My measurement of the MSA rear was 138#, a lot lower than they claim. I sent them back never installed as the ST (old, well used) I was using were about 165# and not stiff enough. Not sure how accurate these numbers are but they are apples to apples measurement for me.
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Thanks, I can do that easily and cheap. Are the 2+2 car springs any stiffer? I live in the rural mountains and every day is like a road race. I run the dog dookey out of this car. I cannot however use extremely stiff springs due to rough pavement. I tried that and the car tended to "skip" across some types of bumps. Not a good thing in the curves.
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I put a set of used ST springs on my 240Z street car. The fronts are ok but the rear is very whimpy and like another recent post bottoms out on minor bumps. I ordered a set of Motorsports (no brand name) springs. I compared free length and length under 450 lbs of weightlifting plates they are almost the same or a slightly softer spring than the ST, so I did not install them. Can anybody recommend a good spring for very spirited street use without going to the coilovers? MSA has Eibach and Tokico I could exchange for, but no spring rates are specified. I don't know if they are softer or firmer than what I have.
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Just a thought from left field, there is fuel hose made for pressure and hose made for suction. The former could collaspe and starve the pump allowing it to self-destruct if used on the suction side of the pump.
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Check out the dist. section on this web page for recurving tips.
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Try the Bluebird (510) list as the SR20DET is becomming a popular swap with them. However we just went through the weight issue thread. The SR20DET fully dressed with tranny weighs 490 lbs per Sport Compact Car in their swap chronicled in May,02. A 5.0 with Al heads, intake, flywheel, and T-5 will be almost exactly the same weight. You will also spend a lot $$ upgrading to get the potential hp out of the SR20DET.
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My son's 73 weighed 2260 lbs. L24, Su's, heavier swaybars, R160, 5 spd, no ac, smog or bumpers; 1/4 tank of gas, no driver.
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Mark, I'm 2 hours from Charlotte.I have a daughter that lives there. Do you have a V8 Z car?
Will Piatt
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I'm 30 min NW of Mount Airy. Do the 280 belts stay "loose" then lock with inertia? I hate the kind that every time it takes up a notch it stays there.
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What have you guys found for seatbelt upgrades in 240s? I'm looking for something over the shoulder, retractable for the street. That rear quarter window just doesn't afford a proper view when you can't lean forward. And I hate it when the belts fall out the door when I exit. Thanks.
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What are big bore su's and where can I get them? What cfm are they rated? Thanks.
Stumped on turn signals!!!
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
I need help bad! Its inspection time and my turn signals just quit working. I have verified the following:
Fuses good and making contact
Emergency flashers work
Brake lights work
Brake light goes off when turn signal switch is put on
Tried new flasher
Tried new electronic variable load flasher
What am I missing here? Its like the turn signal switch is interrupting the brake light power to the bulb, but it won't blink. Also nothing with brakes off. What can I check next?