Modern Motorsports Ltd

what's your intended uses? 1320? daily high miler? roadrace? what's your frame of reference for 'stiff'? stock spring rates are ~100-120, on this forum guys are running from 150 lb/in (and less in MSA/euro springs) up to 375lb/in, lots of examples in past posts, swaybars/tires/cage/posi can come into play as well

I can supply all you need. This forum is full of TONS of info on choices pros/cons. search 'koni, eibach, coilover, tokico, illumina' etc under suspension forum and you'll have some reading to do. www.ground-control.com lists lots of options, keep in mind their pricing is old and has not been updated (nor their web, Z related anyhow) in quite some time. I haven't got too listing much of it on my web yet, busy enough completing CNC projects and meeting ongoing susp. requests.

"Ross, One day when I'm big, I'll buy a drill press, oxy acet torch, lathe, cut off wheel etc., but for now all I have is a hand drill, wire feed welder and 4" grinder" Tim, did you cut that plate etc with your grinder? You have more patience than I or better zip disks. I bought a $13 cutoff (air) tool from harbour freight I've been v. happy with. So what's a decent wirefeed to buy? I love making stuff and not having a welder has held that back Something with decent capability but naturally of an attractive price? I'd love to seam weld some portions on my ZX and lots of other parts.. thanks [ October 22, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

quote: Originally posted by DavyZ: Yes And 280ZX wheels as well, and some 300ZX 15" mags only require a 1/4" spacer or so if you come across those.

Great thread going on, as this has been enjoyable in the past as well. Megasquirt had a GP going I thought via diyefi or perhaps another DIYEFI board they're doing for wideband O2. I really enjoyed checking out all options when I was aspiring to go EFI.....I found I had to make a complete list of all items I'd need to properly compare them. BLKMGK's talking some great/cheap tuning applications but hybridizing a harness/ECU would be lots of time=$ as well. Great part is someone cracks a new puzzle every week it seems. Speed Pro with wideband would be my mid $ choice. GM TPI if I was running that motor. A LOT to be said for tuning on the fly UNLESS you spend $$$ for a pro shop to dial it all in on a dyno (not just a WOT curve, the whole shebang). I'm not saying edel. proflo is the one but being able to sit their or be navigating with bud driving, engine running, dial a value up or down and feel the respone and react accordingly is worth tons IMO. So much guesswork and time saved which = $ for most of us. I wanteed SDS but it didn't have idle control and was really only a harness and ECU. And to date others have offered piecemeal EFI stuff for silly high $'s IMO. Even a used holley TBI system can be great just as a TB source for an MPFI setup....or for the more creative most any carb could be used in that manner......a true TB purpose built was my desire to help gain extra hood clearance but Z's seem to have more of that so perhaps their's more alternatives. When I priced it all out piecemeal doing hours of custom work on my own I came out only a few hundred less than existing complete packages. Any value to my time quickly made the existing a better V8 value....I'm kinda envious of how the L6turbo guys can tweak a mild OEM motor to decent normal V8 power using SDS.

quote: Originally posted by thurem: More off a pita than the regular style. Thure I politely disagree. I've loved my shortie since day one....alternator fits fine, I've had it mounted three different ways now in my continual tweaks. If it helps fit an AC compressor or PS pump I could understand. Otherwise I can't see why wouldn't want that whole engine front the extra 1"+ rearward for more clearance/free room up front to your rad and fan. I have a large clear line of site across my engine bay at the front, perhaps just a personal preference. This shows the 'line of site' once you drop things down below. other pics

Sounds like their might be some more diverse vendors in NZ or AUS? Afco only makes a few progressive rate coilover springs and from their pics they look like crap IMO. Several coils so tight like that are next to useless which makes me wonder at the seriousness of their design intent? See if afco (only NA retailer of progressive rate coilover springs...they have 3 options AIR and all 10.5" or longer) can tell the working range of their springs.....if not and you must have coilovers I'd select them on the softer end, 125/150 or similar......~$60@ for the springs to change later on.

Progressives are absolutely excellent IMO if they offer the range of rates and ride height you want. I loved mine, but I needed every 1/8" (literally, I'll have to post that inner tire to coilover clearance pic...<1/8") so finally went coilovers. They worked great on track as well. Swaybar kit eliminated my majority of body roll.

"I'm around 350 hp now (according to Desktop Dyno) and I'm thinking that for $1400, everything included (except for some fuel line I'd need to run, maybe), it'd be a nice upgrade from my Mt. Vesuvius " $1400 vs. 1900 for proflo? not saying proflo is the right solution but you get a v. nicely plumbed vic. jr. efi manifold, throttle body and easy controller/tuner with proflo. I was not in favour of the laptop requirement of the 4Di. I don't alter my EFI setup daily but I will tune on it weekly. The intake and laptop quickly close that price gap (ie. sell your intake, if a good one you'll get decent dough...if not you'd like a better one anyhow). I've often been surprised at how much $ you can acrue towards a project by selling anything you're not using that others can use, ie. manifold/fuel pump/etc. PS I had a fine 4Di setup I bought for $325 in near new....still sold it to a friend as the laptop and TBI deterred me...if I was going to spend time going EFI I only wanted to do it once and I did want to get to MPFI eventually. Pete's heard my 'song' before but perhaps others haven't. EFI is afterall largely about producing power and efficiency by being able to deliver equal amounts of fuel to all cylinders which MPFI starts to accomplish. off my soapbox now.....PS my 'blower roll' at idle with my proflo is now greatly reduced that I richened up my superlean idle setting , felt kinda silly that I"ve solved that on carbs many times quickly (high idle/dieselling d/2 leanness) but skipped on the easiest of all to adjust lately, my EFI.

You picked up a 6-71 intended for a diesel application, correct? Do you know some guys running those on gas motors? 6-71 diesel blowers are quite easily and cheaply available used but diesel units have far greater tolerances/gaps etc. Years ago an article was written and a few were converted. I polled a v. techie list and it was a resounding 'No' at that time. If you have info. otherwise I'd LOVE to hear about it....I know they're not the most efficient but they're still of strong interest

If your springs are weak inserts aren't rec'd as they'll only stress the weak part more. TRW makes an awesome IMO rear pair of springs for a 280ZX (might not be designed for it but they do come up as listed for 280zx). I ran them for 5 yrs till I went coilovers to clear my 245s. They were definitely stiffer than stock and progressive. And only $55US/pair, I'd have bought them for twice that in a wink. Worked great with my BOGE strut cartridges. Up front, if you can find any low miles 2+2 springs they might be suitable....measure up your OE spring size & pass it on to me and I'll check out another idea I have.

"I have had several queries about what pump to recommend and several turbo cars need an upgrade but do not necessarily need a pump rated at a gazillion GPH and costing $250" Conservatively my bosch will support 450hp which is plenty for me. I used figures from the SDS website for fuel consumption ranges. I mounted it on the stock bracket with two large hose clamps and wrapped the pump in some VERY skookum 1/2" thick rubber (typically used for bridge bearings....soft enough for great damping but no wear....used same on base of radiator mounts)" SDS has fine info for calculating fuel needs. Just IMO, but I'd rather have an OEM brand pump which is known as damn good (ie. bosch) than aftermarket where far fewer units are made and quality for electrical can often be less than desirable....the quality and quiet bosch had me sold).

I've seen same case PN's on many different R200's. Your gear PN difference is most likely because they are different....yours are likely 10mm and the LSD you're looking up (87 OEM?) is 12mm. NISMO has same PN's for all gears of same ring gear bolt size for an R200. They only vary for ring gear bolt size within same case.

I assume their LSD setup is complete and of correct bolt pattern for your gear setup. A competent gear shop can set it up for you (ie. it's not a homebrew bolt in install). You may want to renew your bearings and seals at the same time. An option you may not be aware of is the quaiffe worm gear type units. A little pricier but when setup right, you should not ever need a rebuild or parts etc (whereas clutches on NISMO setups will wear and are pricey IMO to replace). Quaifes were $1200 retail till lately when it dropped to $1000. $900 at present from myself, some more tech info at my URL below.

blue on startup is typically valve guides and/or valve seals, but seeing as you've done both already it's hard to say..... [ October 17, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

I think I've put this example in almost every thread lately: stock 240Z, sitting low as springs and struts were shot....... 16x7's zero offset with 225/50/16's fit fine up front, out back they rubbed inner fenders (but it was really squatting) until they were rolled in. With a 'fresh' suspension at normal height the rolling might not be needed....either way the 'rolling' isn't such a big deal IMO. or go +10 offset and it might be perfect. Have you checked out what's available? It's rarely as easy as going to your local wheel shop and picking some off the shelf. good luck, if you want more options you can check out the adaptors I offer thru the URL below.

looseness can vary from 1/2 to a 3/4 turn past 'snug', with snug being point at which you feel the pushrod resist rotation by your fingers (not point at which you can no longer turn it, with soft hydr. lifters this can be important). Hey is it a hydraulic cam? Typically I go 1/2 turn past snug for the 'cold' (ie. non-running) adjustment. A non higher rpm/non racing setup can go 5/8's or a hair more and run them a bit tighter. THEN, once you've got it up and running etc and want it adjusted dead nuts right, I do a HOT adjustment. Not absolutely necessary but it's led to the quietest valvetrain on all my motors. Cut up some 'spare' valve covers (can be lorise) so the tops are wide open and flared up but still allow access for your wrenches/sockets etc, whatever you use to adjust them. Install one on one side (after engine is warmed up) and proceed to loosen that rocker arm unless you're already positive it's loose (ie. clicking), then slowly tighten until the very moment the 'clicking' (it is audibly distinct) fades out/quits. This is 'snug' as I referred to up top, go 1/2 turn tighter and lock it in. If using locknuts I go 3/8's of a turn and for the last 1/8 I turn the locking set screw snug first then outer 1/8 turn and this gives it a very tight 'lock/set'. Just tightening the set screw afterwards does not I've found. Very satisfying to have a quiet valvetrain you've set hot and know you have them all nailed down. A bit messy but not a big deal, a comp cam or similar (crane) adjusting wrench with inset allen key is quite handy for this. Allows vertical access with minimal oil splash. Oh yeah, if you have stamped rockers you can install (temporarily) metal clips to minimize (they do help) oil spray (Mr. Gasket has some as do others). If you have a solid roller cam then it's a different procedure and you only set them cold as per a different spec....ooops, by cold I meant non-running.....as Pete says, best done hot. I've bent a set of pushrods from excessive revs and learned to appreciate having valves set just right Your idle can really smooth out once they're tuned in as well...pretty kewl as you progress in your adjustments and your idle just keeps smoothing out more and more........ good luck [ October 18, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

quote: Originally posted by pparaska: Dude, a bit of salt on the road and the Aluminized stuff goes to rust! Haven't seen that happen here or in Alberta, and both have lots of salt, especially here where it's borderline freezing and not deeply subzero...so salt is more effective. I'd give it a 5yr+ great lifetime before it shows any signs (as I've seen none yet)easy, just from my experience. their were changes in piping 5 yrs ago or so in case our material comparisons were different.

"I would imagine that ceramic coating your entire exhaust system would be a complete waste of time and money if it hung low enough to scrape on speed bumps. As soon as you've scraped the coating off of even a small section, you've exposed metal and invited rust to come out and play." Ceramic coating with today's aluminized pipe is IMO for keeping the exhaust heat in the exhaust gases and getting it out the tailpipe. I coated my headers to keep engine bay temps down, and I'll most likely paint my Y pipe too as they all influence my starter/firewall/floors/transmission cable/tranny etc....just a good thing IMO. My Y pipe isn't coated now but next one will be. I've got a layer of proform heat shield pads from front of bucketseats to 14" up my firewall, and then proform sound pads from rear of bucket seat to up my firewall on top of that in same area. Made a big difference in cabin heat (wife really appreciated it, as do I) AND noise. I didn't think todays aluminized pipe was very prone to rust? On the few aluminized systems I've seen, they looked just fine at least 5 yrs later. Any other experience with that?

"Where did you get the coilover kit from? " Looks like www.ground-control.com setup to me. I sell theirs and others as well FWIW.

Enjoy your planning zeezee, my 280ZXV8 has: a slight rear weight bias is lighter than stock daily driver (ie. not a stripped out race car by any means) , and this is without any exotic mods. Idaho Z makes a good point, part of the more pointed replies is due IMO to the fact that are archives/search contain 95% of the answers to any newbie q's. Someone suggested a 'have you searched the forums yet' tag to come up before you post a new topic which seemed like a good idea. Their's often updates to that info obviously, but an informed reply from archive reading can stimulate even more detailed discussion. Just an ideer.....

OK, only q left is if it'll fit or not without coilovers then. Your front tires will most certainly have to be 235's or less (not 245's). My Z to honda adaptor set (simple picture on my website, URL below, and yes it's as you described, is $210 for the set of 4. Anything 1.25" (and perhaps 1.5") or thinner is same pricing (ie. 4 bolt or 5bolt etc). Thanks for that prior note on machining. The 'display names' here can make it hard to associate real names. I actually received a check in August from someone whom we'd exchanged email, but his 'real name' was never displayed or given. It was a bit of work sorting to which email address/name it actually belonged. (most buyers include a copy of at least one email of correspondence). My adaptors are made by a man who's made it his profession(fully certified) making wheel adaptors and the quality is all top notch but I have your prior email filed for future use drop me a line with any further q's, I try to read/post here regularly but it's not always possible on my end.

I prefer the first which IMO is a much smoother/sharper wheel, naturally opinions vary. 2nd might be more suited to a 'v. distinct radically modified Z exterior'(ie. racing rear wing etc...)?It's just as easy to post those pics here as well, same way you posted your URL's, just use the image button below and to the right instead. PS they v. much remind me of Boyd's styles.(did CL take over BC? I know their was some change with BC?)

"And Ross, I'M NOT DONE ASKING QUESTIONS YET! " hehehe LMAO, agreed....if any of us were done with q's we may as well roll over I figure. If we're no longer learning it's not tooooo interesting. The casual humour on this forum is v. much enjoyed It's always more cautious joking with those you haven't met but at least that region is well received here when done appropriately

quote: Originally posted by S: Can you use adapters? Spacers will not work for this distance (35mm or 1.4 inches), but adapters will. He likely doesn't need a full 35mm, that would definitely put rear tires into the fenders unless his lip is fully rolled ALL they way upward (assuming tire travel isn't severely limited, which it shouldn't be with MSA springs (ie. not too stiff)). And spacers can be used if desired. But obviously studs should be changed and upgraded to 7/16's or 1/2". I run 1-1/4" slipons up front and 1.5's on occasion. I rec'd bolt-on's as those not so familiar with spacers that haven't used/seen them in action typically prefer bolt-ons. My buds lean to slipons once aware of various setups/options. If you plan on having more than one set of wheels their are great advantages to slipons IF their is any chance your offsets/tire sizes will differ.....numerous autox/event drivers use slipons. Drive up on 7" rims....swap on 3pc wheels with 8->10" width spaced outward to max with slipons, nice to be able to do that in a 20 minutes or so. Always options