Modern Motorsports Ltd

"ok the two front screws on my edlebrock are the metering screws, correct" Sean, you've got the manual right? It does a good job of describing the process as we've been talking offlist for a while. Those two screws control only your idle mixture/circuit. If turning either one in all the way (don't push them in too hard at bottom) does not significantly affect idle (ie. stall it out or close to it) then you have 'numb' idle screws or fuel is getting in thru the other port, peak into your secondary port and primary to see if it's dripping in their (might have to hold secondary weights open to see down, I recall doing this, I had a numb idle screw once and just exchanged it, PITA to find out but I still love those carbs). A TDC piston tool I'd have a hard time justifying myself. If really in doubt remove valve cover, and #1 spark plug (or all plugs to make turning easier, your choice) and put finger on #1, you'll easily feel compression stroke as it comes to TDC #1 compression and rocker geometry relative to each other intake/exhaust will verify TDC ballpark to know if timing tab or rotor is out etc. I know it's been quite frustrating for you, are you sure you only have 5psi pressure or so at the carb? I setup a psi guage and regulator right in my engine bay right above OEM fuel filter just to know idle pressure was good. You may have too much psi and flooding or floats are high or....their manual is pretty complete. Hope it starts working out soon. You can check plugs from an idle and know if it's excessively rich or lean.

quote: Originally posted by thurem: Looks good, are those aluminum setback plates? Thure Looks like JTR (or similar)aluminum spacers and ~1/4" iron setback plate.

"for the bottom two wheels of +27 and +35, what formula would I use to get 0 offset? I know rim width and offset, all I have to do is determine the thickness for the adapters???" If you want 0 offset and wheel is +27 then you need a 27mm thick adaptor (some Z's are 0 offset and some are +10, seen fuzzy info on which ones change). I'm planning to make 4 to 5lug bolt on adaptors this spring (not even starting until all CV and rear disk brackets are sent out!). I'll plan to make them to a suitable thickness so you don't need to use any other spacer except the bolt on adaptor for most applications (ie. unflared Z, likely with coilovers, will poll for feedback when production time nears). Owen, up front you'll need thicker rotor spacers to run with a 5lug hub if you keep your toyota brake setup (vented I assume)(5lug hubs have positive offset of about 20mm built in).

"Yeah, Hot Rod (I think it was) did an article on putting one in a Chevette haha... " I caught that too, hilarious, thanks for the smiley I just put on

Peter: -is the 'highway' cruising on the Island or lots of long trips? (ie. how fast.....3000rpm at 80mph with 3.7's in my setup is just fine...) -330hp flywheel I believe? (305 right?), I'd go as steep as I could for the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear punch......at least that's what I want, 1st gear in most any decent car is always fun....it's 2, 3, and 4 really still hauling I love....... -I cruised steadily at 4-5k rpm to california for spells and when you're doing 100+ it's just sweet music as you tempt your nerves....not so often for me to be able to cruise their for long -I'd go 3.7's or 3.9's depending on overall tire diameter (3.9's for 26" and 3.7's for 25"), just my .02c (and I even have a set of brand new 3.36 gears for sale), looking at rpm's it's not much difference 3.54 to 3.7 etc but power difference is more obvious IMO. -3.36's are IMO more for those doing the 1320 and needing the ratio to meet finish line/shifting/gearing needs or open road racers or high powered cars that can just really still fly in 3rd/4th/5th/6th regardless (given their rarity....if they were more common I'm sure a lot more of us would run them.......and 3.15's as well...)

quote: Originally posted by 83280zxdatsun: What is the top speed of a 83 280zx L28e 5 speed and R200 15 in tries Mine in OE form with custom rear exhaust and turbo airbox with AFM richened 2 notches and 14 initial timing was topped out right around 125/130 by my speedo (which we know can be out up to 10mph or more at that range). It got their a lot faster with 3.9's vs. 3.36's I had at first. Most US cars have 85mph speedo's and some of us CD's have 120mph speedo's (non-digital).

"just my imput but i think your all wrong using a zx body they're heavier " We're all wrong using a ZX body?? I think it's just the way you phrased it and not what you intended perhaps. 280Z/ZX bodies are stiffer and about the same weight as each other. Everyone here makes many decisions that are all a result of a balance of tradeoffs that are their own choices, not necessarily right or wrong. I went 280ZX for the interior and cargo room just FWIW. I prefer the older styling but still like my 280ZX styling.

If you're mainly into straightline performance and therefore reducing squat is your prime interest, I'd agree with your plan and do springs first (assuming struts are adequate). What torque/power is your setup again? I run 250lb/in out back and it's very tolerable IMO, a lot LESS squat than my former TRW's. Still some but I don't think you could decrease it much more and have the suspension function much. TRW's are bolt on and cheap but I doubt they're stiff enough for you ($55US/pr). Eibach progressive OEM replacements (ie. not coilovers) I"m not familiar with but if they're similar to their Z offerings most feedback I've received is they're soft. Another option is coilovers at $200 for the rear. You can choose your spring rate, I'd reccomend from 225-250lb/in and a 8" spring. 280ZX coilovers perches are not a shelved item and are typically made for 8" springs which place you (I'm guessing here) 3/4" or so below stock height. I'm looking at custom (sometimes a simple camaro or corvette with boltons would be appreciated...custom is fun and tiring!) altered perches to allow longer springs. I've got strut tower to firewall braces up front, but I've yet to go straight across. My setup also has swaybars front/rear which greatly stiffened the body response and reduced flex. any q's feel free......I haven't had time to detail the coilover stuff on my web yet, standard pricing of $400/4 corners or $200/2 corners. Sleeve lengths can vary up to 7" to meet customers needs for (4-5" sleeves standard). PS not sure if it was clear that I am running an '80 280ZX with 350sbc... coilovers/illuminas/16x8's/lsd/swaybars/13" discs, not too many of us playing hard with 280ZX's so great to see another one around! (PS we had a skiff of snow today, interesting )

Here we go....Vinh's web Somehow I recall it in a different state, maybe it was a different car or stage? (Vinh?) I recall different taillights?? PS nice wheels Vinh

quote: Originally posted by mtj71Z: i like corvette tail lights on a Z maybe one day i can make some... Take a look at Vinh Vu's very impressive 280ZX. Finished in bright yellow, he customized it fully with a rear treatment similar to a C5; but (AIR) he did all this BEFORE the C5 was out (ie. it's his original viewpoint!). Very impressive piece of work, murals kewl too Anyone got the link to paste it in here? or a pic or tooo?

They'll all pretty much clear with drop down filters....depends on Vic. Jr. as well. One is a low rise and the other has ~1" spacer built into it. I cleared the lorise version (2975) on my 280ZX with a Mr. Gasket dropdown cleaner base and ~1/8" from top nut (ground flush) to hood. But my 280ZX has a lot less hood clearance than most JTR Z's. With my EFI now in I had to find an offset drop down base (which I did) to clear as air horn was located closer to dizzy than usual carb intake FWIW. Lots of adjustment available in various air cleaner bases/lids/spacers etc.

Tom, have you read up on the CV adaptor I'm selling? Full details on my website. Drawings are in machinists queue for production at present. I can package the 280Z stub axles/companion flanges with it as well as the 280ZXT CV axles. But I prefer you source your own CV axles if at all possible as I don't have any extra. Scottie's used this system on his GNZ with no troubles.

"I was planning on running 225/50/15 tires. Can I go wider or would the sidewalls bulge too much? Also wouldn't tread life be adversely affected by all the resultant flexing?(15x6.5 rims)" Omar, I ran 215/60/14's on 14x6's and they rolled a LOT, tons of body roll such that it unnerved me in my otherwise 'tight' car. Shortly after mounting them on my 14x6's I had my 14x7 slotted mags ready......they felt really good on 14x7's, nic'n'tight by my old definition (which might be soft by my now hard as nails preferences . Hard to say how they'd feel on a 6.5" rim. What's the intended use? It's not the tread life that you'd lose most on if your tread is too wide, it's more that your tire will flex/roll and car body will follow and thus you won't have an optimal/flat contact patch of which to make best use of your rubber (ie. less than optimal traction). I'd pick a 205 which would be nice'n'tight, you might get away with a 215 but it's like cams.....more is sometimes less overall.

"JCR makes a supercharger for Z's" I heard via a customer of mine that they weren't selling that system anymore? Have you got info that says different? PS MAK, where's WAUA?

"Omar aka Hydra, writes: Isn't the offset waay too off? you'll increase the track by 3"" Nope, their offset is +40, not -40. Simple wheel spacer would push them out to the owners desired location. (+) offset was more typical of FWD (today it's typical of more than just FWD) which is easier to remember...slides on further over hub, you see their calipers right up tight to outer edge of wheel etc.....we prefer them at ~0 overall offset (relative to OEM) so use 5lug hubs/spacers etc to push them out and return to OEM track width if not greater (hopefully greater ).

"I paid $1100 for it. I'm not too worried about selling it. The local bone yards are asking $1500 for older trannies." Be careful, we all know the 93-97 trans have a demand and thus that higher price. The LS1 trans is (well was a year ago anyhow) very available at lesser prices as their is little to no demand for it. The only guys swapping out OEM 93-97 T56's I know are either die hard road racers having them rebuilt or hardcore draggers putting powerslides or TH400's etc in their place. If their was a polite way to step out of that deal I'd pursue it myself. Another yard has no way to tell the trans you want to trade in is known good etc....... good luck with whichever route you follow, given the plethora of chevy guys on ebay I'm leary of anything chevy at a price that seems less than market.

I believe the rotors you're referring to are the same ones I'm using with the rear disk conversion package going to CNC production shortly(prototypes to be completed by mid-week if they weren't finished on Friday FWIW, see web for update). Uses 11-3/8's Z31 rear rotors and 240SX calipers (retains ebrake). Those rotors (brembo preferred for metallurgy) will give you greater leverage and heat sink. Torquing wheel nuts to spec (and not beyond)is standard procedure to avoid prematurely warping rotors.

"Also for those out there with GC camber plates would like to know if people mounted them under or over the strut tower. Thanks" Just a comment on the over/under issue. Unless I had a reinforced top hat on my strut I'd ONLY mount plates underneath. Simply due to the fact that if they're on top with only minor material bearing underneath (ie. 3 or 4 washers) then you can have a strut 'blow-through' the top as it no longer has the large OEM style perch/surface underneath. This HAS happened on 510's before with over the top camber plates (same bolt pattern as 280zx struts). I'm sure GC has a rec'd method of install, the GC 280ZX caster camber plates install underneath FWIW.

John, if you have a reliable/repuatable flowbench in your area you may want to have some flowed yourself for comparison. It's been shown time and again how much published numbers can vary etc. It's really fine to get two types of heads flowed on the same bench by someone you trust. (been some slanting on AFR and other numbers in the past) Stats/numbers can prove anything depending on their twist......it'll be a helluva setup when you're done.

J&H, I have a set of 3.36's with details here: goto products, then additional parts at bottom 3.15's were made by NISMO, how many I have no idea, I have one set and am only aware of 2 others in NA. The 3.36 I have available is a 37/11 (=3.36) ratio just FYI (in checking diff's that's my key check I've always done if I can't get to turning it in the car) good luck with your car, sounds like a blast

I recall a thread or two saying 225-250 was a good range for rear springs to minimize squate, Andrew's running 225's AIR and quite happy with his 1320 launches. I can't see how we can enjoy our high speeds with great stability/control and roll around town soaking up all the bumps. My 250 rears squat somewhat but at least 1/3 or less than the stiffer than stock TRW's I was running (280ZX, ~same weight as a 280Z), I'm pleased with their rate and 225 rears in my dad's Lt1240z have him quite happy. Depending on your goal it's not so much the weight of your car as how much squat you want to reduce when you place a priority on 1320 launches. Just as key is setting up rear geometry such that on full squat (launch/corner exit/whatever....) you have as close to zero camber as your setup will tolerate to maximize your tire footprint for maximum traction. Details like this help a lot in street class road racers etc (and other arenas as well). It's been delved into a few times the degree of squat (if any) that's desirable for launches and I'm sure searches would turn it up, part of it was the more squat the more time spent moving fwd during your trap time but not at optimal traction yet (at least that's how I recall it, Rick did a nice job AIR).

Nion, you've got lots of fine feedback. I'd put some zapstraps/tiewraps around your strut insert pistons at the bottom and drive it as per normal to see how much travel you're getting. This could quickly tell you if bottoming is an issue or not. For the wandering I'd be quite curious to see the results of your last alignment. Don't sweat your tire OD, at 25.2" it's larger than many of us at 245/45/16 (24.7), 225/50/16 (24.9) and is similar to stock (slightly taller). Good luck and let us know how it goes.

quote: Originally posted by Owen: Really? So what's all that fluid that dumped out in the back of my CRX? Do these things use two kinds of fluids or something? Owen Normal gear fluid Owen, think of them as all other diffs etc. Just a different posi mechanism that consists of a sealed unit (with it's own fluid/sealed/not serviceable, at least R200 viscous units aren't servicable).

"The engine is running in the car. Now this doesn't seem, on the surface, to be a big deal." That's a HUGE deal, everything else is just details!! You've worked thru a LOT of details to date and having it run is so triumphant , easy enought to relate to even though our builds are so different I can appreciate what you've accomplished to date. Congrats

a search on 700R4's might yield some more info -700R4's lockup ONLY when they get the electrical signal to do so, can be at any rpm. TC rpm figures relate to the gear multiplication the TC can add in. Hence one wants a brake triggered 'kickout' so your TC unlocks before your car stops, or a rpm/speed controller on the lockup. -bypassing lockup as that fella suggests takes out your lockup completely. You should have a dummy valve and non-locking convertor for that as I understand it (Keith?). If it doesn't ever lockup then yes, it will run hotter if your cooling doesn't keep it below it's happy zone. More wear on the convertor in any event which translates to wear on tranny if convertor is giving up metal particles. Their's a few rpm sheets online, including I believe one link off this initial homepage showing mph/rpm for given combos. If not drop me a line personally as I have excel sheets for comparing combos.