Modern Motorsports Ltd

"how would the upper perch be more simplistic than just cutting an inch of the strut" -as mentioned, I don't have a welder so bolt on options are preferred. Top perch pictured by GC is thinner/shorter overall than your OEM, this is where the travel is gained (ie. your lower spring perch would not have to be set as low with thinner upper plates..) -if welding/sectioning is easy for you to do then it's easiest....I just wanted you to beware of the options/pros/cons (ie. if you goto caster camber plates later it may be too short...but you can just use other strut housings in that case)

"My struts are NOT sectioned however I suspect that I'm riding on the bumpstops occasioanlly as I find my bumpers pushed up to the top when I pull the wheel." OEM length bumpstops or have you already sliced them in half or similar? stock length is toooo long for us performance pushers " Previous struts looked prettyy new before being replaced but were DEAD as a doornail - possibly from bottoming..." some tolerate bottoming much better than others......tokico's are alright, someone was talking about 'old' konis or KYB's being shot after one bottoming "Oh, I'm running a 240Z so this might not be quite apples to apples " so's Chase, it's a 280ZXT motor he's referring to, in a 240Z chassis...I had to reread it the first time tooo another spot to 'gain' strut travel is in the upper spring perches....their might be 1-2" alone to gain their in using a simply made (ie. caster/camber but cheap) upper mount to replace the coilover top mount, I've thought of making them as I know I'd prefer that to sectioning the struts myself but I don't have a welder or chop saw so my preferences can differ from others , allows you to stay with easier to replace components if needbe

In another thread Chase passed on that he's also wondering if sectioning his struts is needed with his anticipated ride drop. How many here running 1.5-2" lowered and was sectioning req'd in your opinion? I'd be concerned about running out of adjustment room up top with shortened struts, larger rims and rubber...Mike's commented on this before as well. right around 225-250 out back seems to be the range for decent ride and greatly reduced rear squat. My dad has 225 with his 240, Andrew is running same, and in my heavier 280ZX I run 250 out back. I wouldn't run stiffer out back in my ride FWIW. Minimal squat such that it doesn't bother me at all and the rides plenty 'stiff' to harsh on poor roads.

"So, would it be possible to put some sort of speed switch on your speedo to turn the fans off at say 45-50 mph" Many of us run adjustable thermo switches, mines set at 190 and I run a 180 Tstat. Once rolling unless you're roadracing IME, the car cools easily without any fan input, hence I rec'd a temp-related switch (ie. no point having it on all times). My rad got very low in fluid over the last while....yesterday my coolant temp went from 185->222 F in right about a minute while sitting at a light. Less than 20 seconds of rolling and it was back below 190. I added 4+ litres to it today (got a fix I need to do). YMMV depending on rad/water pump/fan etc.

"I've come accross a rebuilt 383 that is built for pulling. My 85' full size Blazer has a basically stock 350 w/a 700R4.....BUT before I violate the "if it ain't broken don't fix it rule" with the Blazer I have a few questions. " well on that ain't broke/don't fix it...why not put the 383 into your Z and leave the blazer as is? perhaps a cam change if needed but doing the blazer etc can open up extra's obviously. "1) As part of the swap I want to junk/trash the computer controlled HEI and Q-jet and replace them with good old pre computer parts." Just be sure to have a correct TV cable hookup on your 'new' carb. Non-comp. HEI only needs one power wire so that's easy, tach is optional "QUESTIONS Are: 1) Is there a computer between the fuse box and HEI?" if your HEI is truly computer controlled then their is something controlling the timing curve, it would be fused. "2) Can I just run a hot lead from the fuse box to the HEI and eliminate any brain boxes?" I'd setup a relay to ignition & the JTR oil psi safety switch and keep any current possible out of an OEM Z fusebox. 3) Will this back to basics swap effect the 700R4? you will need to wire up the TC lockup, can be a toggle switch on your shifter and a release on your brake for full manual control. Other than that your 700 needs the TV cable hookup and that's it, nothing vaccuum controlled on a 700. 4) Is there vacumm hose routing that if removed will effect the 700R4? nope 5) Is this as simple as finding the hot HEI, connecting it to a pre 80' HEI, bolt on a Holley spreadbore and trash the computer controlled HEI and Q-jet? pretty much..from what you're building/described I assume you've played with HEI's and carbies so nothing to technically daunting involved. I'd sure be swayed to either leaving the 350 in place in the blazer, or leaving it's topend, manifold/carb/HEI at a minimum in place to run on the 383 in the blazer as that carb etc should still run that 383 fine if it's a stump puller as you say. Some jet changes might be needed but your plugs will tell you that. Then you've only really have one 'all new' system to setup/troubleshoot if the blazer induction/spark is left as is. Just some options.

" i want to use 5-way adjustable struts, do i have to shorten my housing so the cartigdes fit? " No you don't. Their's been lots of discussion on this forum about this. Consensus as I recall was if you've lowered your car a substantial amount then you may want shortened/sectioned struts to regain that lost susp. travel. If you run larger wheels/tires (ie. right up to the strut) you could actually run out of room to locate your spring perches if your struts are lowered. For 240Z illuminas it's not needed.

Welcome Zthang, I'd heard via a fuzzy grapevine a year or two ago their was a nice 4.3Z in the Seattle/WA area...great to see you pop up!...got any pics? I loved that motor in 1990 and I know it's only gotten better since then. Did you try the EFI at all? what size carby you running? Great to have you aboard

Isky will tell you what spec's/range his cam wants, compare that to your Kmotion specs. Depending on rpm ranges etc lighter weight springs (singles or duals vs. triples, smaller ID's etc)/retainers/keeper combos can add some sweet rpm till you hit float, cost isn't that sweet though...what rpm range you building for BTW?

"I would like to compare weights of various cars. Would anybody be willing to give it a go?" 1980 280ZXV8, 3110 with 3/4 gas (95lbs) and my 190lb frame in it, 50.0/50.0 f/r at that time (David Carroll rocked my car, he didn't believe 50/50, at that point he started taking notes, Shasta'00 ) I had only my spare removed for the autox and when I waded thru the numbers the car came out lighter than stock and the spare/any cargo gear/full gas tank makes it rear weight biased. Very neutral handling. I have full corner weight info at home somewhere. My dad got full corner weight info on his 240ZLT1T56 lately as well, I'll see if I can chase that up....be good info for a FAQ or Andrew's specs page...

I love my roller but can't properly compare it to standard hydraulic flat tappet as I changed a lot more than the cam. idahoevette website or similar had a great writeup by Herb Halverson (AIR) with a direct dyno before/after of v. similar cams in same motor, one roller and one not. FWIW, going 'roller' for a mild motor does not have to be so expensive....cams are available used or new take outs for $50US and up from ZZ4's/Lt1's etc... OE lifters are cheap and setting up that 'spider' to use OE lifters isn't a big deal, take care of front 'button' and dizzy gear if need be and that's about it. Has been done anyhow...I like Mike's quoted spec's...right in line with built-modded Lt1's, one WA guy has a shoebox or more full of dyno slips....cerberus, LPE might do solid cams for Lt1's?? (drop me a personal email and I'll fwd you to someone who knows the sources). Main advantage for a solid roller IMO (for non high rpm motors) is the lighter lifters vs. hydraulic lifters.

Kim, what did you have added 'custom' to your rad? Mounts or....just curious...I've got the 2-1.25" rows in my Griffin great rad, $270 on my doorstep including tranny cooler added. What power is that 406 at? Black Magic's don't cover the whole rad but neither can your clutch style...as we know it's the shroud that makes the difference ONCE your rad is up to snuff if your fan can't do it alone (my basic flexalite does fine with no shroud at all)...and I've always wondered why a Black Magic is only rated at 2xxhp. Liability perhaps, with todays v. tight engine bays in new cars. I don't mind pulling amps...it's hp I don't want to pull

"Ross, thanks for pointing out what I meant to " You did say it fine! I just hadn't seen your post yet while I was composing mine....if you're all quick on the draw today I should get back to work

Thanks Mike, just found some webinfo as well: HAL spring offerings. I wonder how their 'bulk' buy compares to JEG's pricing? Those 10" 140/250s would be right up my 'winter' alley

"I'm seriously considering Mike's idea of using the Holley intake and selling both of my Victors Summit has it listed on backorder and I don't know what the rails cost of what they look like etc" looks great! I'll be curious as well to see what's offered up for fuel rails, they'll be different from proflo and other top bolt down styles I've seen as those bosses appear to be sidemount. Holley has added the rear boss for throttle bracketry which is nice as others have not included it. PN and pic

quote: Originally posted by Mike kZ: These HAL's are coil over progressive springs sold by Jeg's. I'm going to try the 130/250 12" springs in the rear. They are $53.99 ea. Have you got PN's, any other offerings by HAL? Is that their full name? I'd have to make new coilover setups on my ZX to fit 12's I'm quite sure (Z's are more forgiving). Sounds like a great 'winter' setup for me to run.

"]Hey, that looks pretty beefy. Lots of room for exhaust too. I'm also looking at a similar kind of mount arrangment - up into the tunnel instead of bolted to the floor." I have one similar to that pictured, not as beefy or near as nice though (1/4" plate, ends bent up same as pic to go up in tunnel, bolts pass thru my tunnel ~10" below my shiftern/console). I'm making a new one (or using a Z JTR one I came across) to go across the floor....I want it to be a LOT easier to drop/lower my trans...I'll either section the flat one so a centre section unbolts or have the top nuts welded into my floor/sole plates so I can just unbolt from underneath. Not as much a factor with sticks likely, but I've wanted it to be easier to yank my 700 in the car or even just lower it for governor changes etc. PS if I could weld or fabricate half as good as Tim, I'd be making it all myself too , now where can I fit a welder.....torch...drillpress...great stuff Tim [ October 22, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

Mike's info is correct. However L6's have fine exhaust manifolds to start with unless you go quite extreme. Quite a few dyno's were done by a race team with different headers etc and its been agreed for a while that no an L6 headers aren't much if any of a bang/buck unless you're doing a stroker etc and even then it might be questionable. Custom exhaust from the downleg to horizontal transition of the OEM manifold rearward is generally simplest and most functional. I love headers but on an L6 I'd avoid the install/maintenance hassles for sure. AIR, a 280ZX manifold has tuned length runners, not sure if 70-78's have same? (ie. would a 280ZX manifold be an up grade to an older L6?). www.zhome.com might have those dyno results listed somewhere. I recall no more than 4 hp variance b/t any of the tests.

"How much is "full value"?" I just recall it was a fair chunk more. My bosch was $150US, is dead quiet and will support 450hp easily. Scotty started a similar thread recently in which I reposted PN's/specs for some bosch stuff.

FWIW, I've come across R200's out of cars that acted like LSD's.....they were so junked up inside they acted locked up. Most misrepresented Z part around IMO. Ross (if I had a nickel for every LSD someone tried to sell me) C

"I am very disapointed in the lack of follow up of many issues including this one on the Corvette IRS. Scotty, you have let a lot of people down. Why get everyone going about the upgrade without thinking it through." WTF??? Agreed, we better cancel Scotties pay raise and cut some benefits....NOT! If you've read as much as you have I'd have guessed you'd have figured out that the general spirit of this forum is info. sharing and group brainstorming to devise new solutions where needed. Faulting anyone for lack of info, particularly someone who tries as hard as Scottie to make it all crystal clear for the uninformed is scarilege IMNSHO. Scottie's explained a lot of the swap and his plans already, it's a hobby for him, IMO he goes way beyond anyone's expectations regardless of what they may be. Reread the opening statement when www.hybridz.org first loads. Guys here spend hours on their keyboards regurgitating what they've already done when they could be working on new projects or with their kids or ..... I apologize to admin if I stepped out of line but STEELMAN's response really irks me.

Fully agreed with Kim. A fair number on the classic fbody list are running 400's. I was all set to do it when my roller 350 landed in my lap My plan (and it would still be the same although an LT1 would likely distract me now) from all their inputs and others was: find best 2bolt stock 400 block I could, run 2 bolt main caps...if I ever got to 'big' power I'd have splayed milodon's installed (2 bolt 400's are stronger than 4bolts, 4bolts have 2 going into the 'weak' area..) -their cooling is a non-issue when heads are drilled out for steamholes, I came across tons of misinformation on that issue and finally just paid attention to those actually running them successfully, no rocket science in their combos. -most 400's were not advertised, corner shops, etc flushed out a few, I could have swapped my non-bored 327 for a 400 straight up but already had my 350 and no extra room -if built for true torque (ie. not 7000rpm) your headers aren't as key and rewarders headers 'appear' a very fair value IOM, we'll see what Jim's final experience is. -although I've grown fond of roller cammed seutps, sweet idle/low load mpg and decent upper end, I'd have to go for cubes on anything that wasn't to be a daily driver!

All bosch pumps can be bought individualy. Several porsches run the same pump, great unit, not cheap by any means. It was at least a $100 more than the bosch I picked out. If you're buying new/ie. full value and aren't doing 450+hp its hard to justify the expense.

"Cheap fuel injection, is there such a thing?" Yup, that's what makes LT1's and LS1's so attractive. Factor out motor/trans costs and the efi is practically free in comparison to a non-90's OEM motor buildup. Lt1's respond great to easy mods IF you need more, many would not (~300+hp in an uncorked Z install); I'm not up on Ls1's but I assume similarly. IMO they're too often overlooked. I've seen a fine powertrain and 4th gen car for $3500US, powertrains complete at $3k and up. Great deals IMO. Just wish they'd been available economically in '94 when I started my swap. Always a next time

"As to the drill press thing - if ever you do get one, make sure you get one that can turn really slowly. Most of them that you find at Sears and Home Depot are meant for woodworking and spin too fast for metalworking. My friend gave me his Delta benchtop and it just eats up the drill bits." Yup, I've used one with an extensive speed chart on it, material dependent. You can also use a machining 'lube' (like a tube of jewellers rouge) that does wonders on the drill bit life and cutting speed. I've found a specific temp. at which a friends press would cut very well with minimal to no where on my cobalt bits, with the 'rouge' on it. thanks for the wirefeed info.

Great 'rambles' Tim, is their an amerage range or frequency range I'd want to spec (ie. perhaps I could find one for decent $ that could do 18 guage or less)? I assume their's various wire types, do you use the one with the 'gas in it' seeing as you're 'gasless'?