Modern Motorsports Ltd

Great stuff Ron, I love seeing an older camaro doing a nice launch where it just rises up uniformly (front and rear) and hauls ass when it's setup nicely.

Thanks Andrew, I'd guess the 225 -> 250 step is more obvious in harshness given my stiffness in my heavier ZX with 250's out back. Damn sweet boat and you'll always be special in my book

There's actually 'crayons' for the perfect O2 location, it's not as close as you can get necessarily....you rub it on your exhaust and one melts at (just for ie.) 1000 degrees and other at 800 and midpoint is the optimal location...(not those numbers...I don't recall the real numbers...for any techies out there they can pipe up. Beware you install it where you have a decent access/angle to service it after (you will be servicing it) and it's protected from road-debris/wires not exposed overly etc.

"... but I credit that to major squat in the rear suspension. Since then, I've added adjustable coil over with a healthy spring rate." Andrew, what rear spring rates did you go to?225 or 250 enough to stop you truly HIPO guys from squatting too far? My TRW"s allowed me to squat 3/4" just putting it in gear (foot on brake, 750idle). 250's now only allow a 3/8's or less I'd guess? I should measure again...was fun last time I did it And with max brake stand as well Keep us informed on your success. -Andy[/QB]

"As Ron Jones was saying about the video of Nozcar, a lot of time is spent squatting instead of forward motion. Would be quicker with a stiffer rear." Quicker how so? Isn't that 'squat time' for the driver to account for in reaction? or does that 'break you out' early? If the squat happens prior to fwd motion, ie. tripping beams then it would be alright? correct? I"m very green on straight lining but curiuos on this point...my stiff rear lights up v. easy compared to hooking with softer rear springs and I'm sure it's due to some changes in my weight transfer and my current minimal squat.

"And read his explanation (in the article) about his tire choices. Interesting reading! " yup, we had a long chat a while back on a 510 list quibbling on whether or not your actual contact patch was the same size REGARDLESS of your tire size assuming same weight of vehicle.........anyone care to take up that one Hmm, wonder how many mpg I'd gain with 195/70/14s again

quote: Originally posted by Drax240z: Time for my Kevin Shasteen impression. <snip of coffee and toast discussion> I do highly recommend the book Johnc mentioned. I don't know what he means about it being boring though! (engineers are funny that way) BWAHAHAA, ROTFLMAO, sorry, couldn't help it..struck a funny bone here, another list I'm on has the AEOTY award....

Great stuff Mike! FWIW, TC rods on 280ZX's (likely 510's as well) can be turned down and the threads ran down further(ie. I wouldn't make all new)...as they're ahead of the control arms. (Z's are behind, correct?). I was going to put a pair into the machine shop here soon as I'd like to correct some geometry shortly and subsequently pair with my caster/camber plates. Do keep us updated

Measure voltage across the battery terminals with it disconnected and then compare that to the same measurement once the battery is connected. A change in voltage will be an indicator you have a draw (live circuit). If you have a difference in voltage you can progressively remove fuses until the voltage #'s match and you've found your draw....or remove all fuses and work the other way....my dad had some circuit feeding back thru his headlights such that IF his headlights were left on and he turned the car off it would NOT shut off!!! some prior owner had fiddled with his underdash wiring more than once.....he since just recently rewired ALL his circuits thru a '95 camaro OE fusebox, lots of work but he's satisfied now everything is fused and routed properly. (it ran great for 2 months till the funny wiring finally reared it's head...just before a viper encounter , oh well, always next time ) [ October 01, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

"... Ross may also sell a coil-over setup, I'm not sure. Ross? I'd buy from one of those two guys..." Sure, I sell coilovers...been to busy pushing the rear CNC disk bracket & CV adaptor to production and meeting other custom Z package goals to update my web though. But most anything legal I'll sell you For those daunted by welding/grinding you don't have to do any if you're satisfied running 225 width treads at near stock height (ie. not lowered 2"). You can simply slip your threaded collar and nut over your OEM unaltered tube leaving the OEM perch their. Not a showstopper but it's a very easy install and leaves you the option of throwing OEM springs etc back on with little trouble if ever needed (ie. an all original car) for a comfortable ride in the off-track season or for sale (and keep coilover setup for next Z...). My dad got in a time pinch and had the local Z mechanic install his setup and the mechanic never altered the struts, it all clears fine as it cleared with OEM struts so my dad's fine with how it is. He's right around stock height or possibly a bit below. 3.75" clearance to his mid-car bottle/muffler.

quote: Im looking for a 3.36 which if either one is my best bet??? Thanks The earliest 280ZX's you can find, it hasn't been dead consistent what the few around have shown up in. As Scottie says the early ZX2+2 (ie. a 78 production) is your best shot, I've seen one come out of a 5spd ONCE.

Larkja, dieselling is typically due to your mixture being too lean so it's v. hot and preignites itself, dieselling on...mainly with carbs where dieselling with draw fuel in to continue the cycle...or too little ignition timing [given fuel/air mix, ie if one is out it affects rest..](or too much/my brains foggy this am). Perhaps your SU's don't quite flow enough at idle for the larger cubes? Or the stroked combo makes for more detonation/preignition hotspots so they keep lighting off after shutdown? Whenever my ride is tuned for our annual smogging (ie. leaned out and timing backed off) it'll diesel for a minute or more after I shut it off if I let it...I literally have to get out and knock dizzy back to reasonable timing before shutoff. I forgot to do that this year and the unburnt fuel haze in my garage had my eyes watering good as I scrambled out of my car and the garage In school last year I was cheap so ran a leaner idle and just shut it off in gear...mines an auto so no biggie. Now with EFI I can run that lean idle without the dieselling thank goodness. good luck (PS thanks for tagging a follow up..I'm not fond of seeing the exact same post in multiple forums and what you did grabs my attention better )

I'll have to take a harder look at rear Z tire's fitment sometime. This spring/summer I saw 225/50/16's on 16x7 zero offset fit fine on my dad's 240. He had to roll the inside of his rear fender lips as his tires were rubbing slightly, then we realized his struts were blown and springs were weak. But rolling them alone made it fine and he had lots of room behind his tread to the rear strut, 235's would've fit no trouble. He went to coilovers for the optimal spring choice and ride height for spirited driving. I'll be curious to see how much room is their....I know Pete's documented his fully etc but are all Z's the same out back for clearance? Is their a simple top perch mod/swap to lower it 1/2" or so? If current setup is fine doing coilovers for a 1/2" drop seems a bit of work and dough. If you're adept at welding I was thinking of sectioning the strut below your spring perch and thus retaining full travel....assuming you can fit your 235's (if that's the size you have to have...seems a bit low profile for a strip launch IMO if strip is a big priority) beside stock perch/springs.

Great you solved the rear noise Jim. Now you've noticed your FPR up front is buzzing/vibrating??? I have a hard time imagining why a fuel system part up front would create any noise in itself unless perhaps your return is too restrictive and it's at a pressure higher than desired?? any other ideers? I just can't see that vibrating/or buzzing when you're sitting their with only the fuel pump on and no engine harmonics etc to cause ONLY loose items to vibrate. perhaps I misunderstood?

Do you know for sure how much vaccuum that can was adding? I had a crane adjustable can once and quickly found out it was adding in 20+ degrees and wouldn't adjust low enough without putting limiting plates in my dizzy etc. Yanked it and put a normal GM 10 degree can in ($5 or 6 bucks at any auto chaing/Neihoff lists by inches of vaccuum) and that helped. I had tooo much advance at part throttle so it would knock.....sounds like what you're experiencing. 48 total including vaccuum at cruise is not alarming....you just need to ensure it drops off fast enough when you load it up or it'll knock/stumble as perhaps you experienced. WOT total I keep at or below 38 typically and rest as high as possible without stumbles or knocks. FWIW, 16/17 initial is where mine really wakes up off idle. An initial timing change a few years back is what got my first 2-3 rear end stepout at WOT w/ the ole 327......made a surprising overall difference/I was v. green tuning at the time and having my car jump a 1/2 lane sideways at 50mph was a 10 on the pucker factor.. good luck nailing it down.

Jim, is it present at 1500 when stepping into the throttle transition? You mention you haven't played with initial timing much......why not??? I know I rec'd it as a solution to a prior q you had a while back......sbc's like lots of initial...it can seem find, add a couple degrees and it'll scream more Here's my more recent..fine to bump it up to see if it makes a difference, just DON'T go WOT higher rpm's until you're sure your max timing is in a safe realm....fine to do low rpm transition 'tests' though. Good luck http://www.hybridz.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=001183

search the archives and you'll find info that the 4/87-12/89 NON SE 300ZXT rears are a rather easy bolt in posi, just change front flange and rear cover. Other option is to buy the 'powerbrute'? carrier from someonea and have a shop install it with your choice of gears.

quote: Originally posted by BLKMGK: Not to worry Pete, I'm not thrilled about the cell being in a crush zone either but it's foam filled an should break away or go down in an accident. At least that's what I hope occurs! I'd prefer a stiffer rear as well, foam or not I'd be concerned about hot exhaust/sparks from the carnage/electrical to pump and other items back their etc. Let alone if you can't get out easily that could be a lot of fumes moving your way that might find a spark/short somewhere. Then again, I have a hugely long list of what I'd prefer on my own car as well

quote: Originally posted by 383 240z: The WOT 3-4 upshift valve is a $35 dollar part that you can get at any AAMCO Thanks Keith, the part you mention (price range anyhow) I'd understood to only allow 2/3's throttle to WOT, a few on a classic listed proved that out a few years ago. Perhaps it's changed or they just fudged up? I should be doing my tranny filter someday here anyhow...is the above something I could attempt?

"1. Is there an easier way to get to the top bolts on the tranny? It was hell getting to one of the top ones and I know it will be close to impossible for me to put it back in." AIR upper trans bolts should be accessible from top of engine bay as they're fwd of firewall or pretty close to it...a shorty wrench should do it.....OR the prof. trans way of often doing it is from underneath with a 30 or 36" extension on a ratchet (you still have to start it by hand, I'd start all bolts by hand), Home Depot had a 17 or 24" long 3/8's extension AIR. "2. Now that the trans is out of my way I can replace the clutch. When I took off the clutch and pressure plate I seen that the fly wheel has some grooves in it. So, I guess it will need resurfacing. How can I get that fly wheel off? I try to loosen the bolts, but the engine just keeps turning." Sounds like you don't have air so I'd either think harder about how to jam your flywheel (ie. lightly jack a 2x4 underneath your flywheel to keep it in place) or rent/borrow an electric impact, or and my favourite...buy a $10 impact hammer, basically a 8" or so long thick scredriver type piece that has a ratchet type end for your socket, the other end you hit with a hammer and the ratchet imparts a very small twist to the socket...worked v. sweet on frozen wheel lugs in yards and those pesky phillips brake/dust shield little screws amongst others...MAKE sure it's going the right way first... oh yeah, why not put a breaker bar on it and turn your starter KIDDING!! had a long day here and it'll be a longgggg wknd toooo, good luck & hope that helps

Sounds better Jim, I didn't want to bug you but since they're not made yet....did you spec the 1404 for them to match your header flange to this? Might want the lower tubes swept back a bit to make that 90 a little less harsh..(or see if they can include some mandrel 90's at least, I recall that being no trouble in talks last time), lets hope they come thru for you!..good luck, I hope to do up my drawings for them this wknd

Well you do away with a rubber insulator present in the OEM mount. I'd think a simple 'thin' high durometer rubber ring or 'washer' might help that, if an issue in Z mounts? Friends running the 510 setup I discussed above have not noticed any noise due to this setup. I have heard of poor bearings/poor fits on other setups but no specifics...any slop in their and you will definitely get specific noise, not just translated vibrations from below.

Forum seems fixed now Besides what's above I was looking for feedback on existing camber plates available for Z's. Are current designs liked? If not what aspects are disliked? My setup above has been used on rally/race 510's with no complaints (heavy duty teflon bearings etc). Reading Terry's writeups at www.zhome.com it sounded like max (or at least more)caster could be a great thing, allowing one to reduce their camber settings and reduce tire wear. "Terry's 'additional' caster writeup ".......second benefit of this set-up is that it will allow quite a bit less static negative camber to be needed in setting up the car, which then allows for more tire to road contact in straight line braking. I currently run about 3/4 degree negative camber very successfully on my racing Z with the 7 degrees caster. The Z cars started with 3 degrees caster, which was later changed to 5 degrees in the ZX's, and I believe it ended with 7 degrees on the present day 300ZX's....... If more is good I might alter this camber plate design for more built-in caster... thanks in advance

quote: Originally posted by Cerberus: My tci kit allows wide open 4th I was doing above 110 though I know the $$$B&M WOT4 has worked for others. We didn't take mine back out to see why not yet....I was 120mph at 6grand...105-110 was my typical Turn 9 EXIT speed at SIR so the straight was VERY boring without 4th..I could float it in 4th at 120 cruising or hold it at 6grand in 3rd...both very boring for a 1/4mile plus straight. been wanting that WOT4 for a while...wish it was easier to work on the trans...Y pipe's in the way toooo

tailhousings swap quick IME, when I first went to pick up my built 700R4 he asked my rear end ratio and then we looked at speedo gears...he had the closest combo for the 'short' (th350?) tailhousing so that's what we put on.....turns out that tailhousing has an almost infinite number of speedo gear choices as the speedo gears cover trucks/60's vettes etc etc......I'd be 99% sure it'll swap very easy but you may need new speedo gears which are cheap. What year corvette Dan? 4th WOT would be nice....my $$$ B&M kit hasn't given me that yet FWIW, an OEM 'vette governor is suprisingly cheap for a bolt on shifting change.