Modern Motorsports Ltd

thanks for the input to date guys:-) -as I understand it SDS doesn't offer datalogging which I see as a priority to maximize the combo with the miles I put on my car etc so they're out -my 280ZX V8 setup has quite a different configuration than V8 Z's, hence my stress on that point in my initial post, hood clearance is tight as stated, if I had an extra 1/2" I'd of filled it with a carb spacer by now (it's on the shelf, wouldn't fit) -I like the edelbrock proflo system but the $3k sticker is the stopper now, I already have the same intake they use so got me thinking to convert mine to a dry one and get best of both worlds (economy and high end hp from single plane) -it's finding a reasonably priced combo of the remaining (or all if I get a new manifold as well) items as listed to beat the $3k proflo system (I understand it's v. good, comments?) -Injectors and ECU's seem to an item I might be able to save on with used parts smartly shopped so once I know the best approach and my best system options I'll be ready to pick them up as they're available -how much are the TPIS big mouth 'LT1' intakes? (why named after the LT1?, flow similar? or similar in looks etc?) -using a late model LT1 EFI setup matched up with my engine interests me as these systems come available from time to time and parts would be readily available if need be, forgive this q but is it ridiculous to think my Vic. Jr. can be plumbed with injectors and then I make a custom 90 degree transition to mate to my intake that then carries on to a Lt1 (or similar) throttle body up front? I know airflow characteristics are critical and some proper transition from behind TB to intake entrance would have to be dealt with, just seems OE has it all nicely built in already w/o the big sticker price Fast frog: what TB are you using? or is it integrate in that 'lt-1' intake you mention?

Sure, fire the pics at me, I'm pretty set on going straight to a TPI setup as far as having a dry manifold and not a TBI setup. Streetability of a Vic. Jr goes way up and many runner issues are minimized (with our ligher setup and a larger ci motor anyhow)

I understand the OE GM TPI manifold won't flow much above 5500 or air for 350+hp and the aftermarket runners etc are big dough (my setup is a 400hp roller 350). That's why I was thinking of my Vic. Jr., are throttle bodies expensive? I can't find any pricing on speedpro's offerings (it's been recc'd to me, any comments? I'll have to review the 1st version of this thread) http://www.tciauto.com/ecu/index_spe.htm A TB shorter than a carb would sure be welcome but I have to wonder about the feasibility of converting a Qjet (got lots around, or a Holley) to a TB? doesn't sound like rocket science at all, add a TPS switch linkage and rig up an IAC and vaccum sensor with temp probe right? who's ECU is seen as best bang/buck for my needs? I'm aware their's many offerings and Im' sure many here have done their homework and I'd like to benefit from that.

I've read the thread on Mike's initial EFI q's and still have a lot of q's. I'd love to convert my V8 280ZX to EFI this spring if not before and I'd like a TPI setup (just not TBI, not brandname TPI etc). I enjoy figuring things out but don't want to reinvent the wheel on this one. I have a Vic. Jr. intake I'm removing shortly (works great but want better mpg for winter/school etc, edelbrock uses it in their proflo setup) so it's available for machining all winter:-) I do have quite tight hood clearance so that could be an issue. I currently have ~1.25" from top of my carb (air cleaner flange) to my hood, I should gain ~3/4-1" once I lower the motor with custom mounts and custom pan is finished up so that will increase. I could also gain a little with frame/crossmember spacers but would prefer to avoid that route (none their now). Anyhow, onto the EFI, I understand I'd need the injectors/fuel rail, ECU, TPS, O2, throttlebody, ECU interface, wiring harness and possibly knock sensor. As usual I have a hard time believing it's cheapest to buy a full system and have to prove to myself first one way or the other. I want something relatively easy to interface/setup as I want to enjoy this and not dread it. Is the edelbrock proflo setup a good point to start? I was thinking of doing a similar 'home-brew' setup but I haven't got the time to chase down a ton of detail like some on diyEFI332 etc are up to. Can one buy a separate throttle body and rest of the parts sensibly and come out ahead (or even in price and ahead in performance/function)? I have a few qjets around, do they make a good throttlebody donor at all?? What $/where are you buying injectors? Any used deals to watch out for? (ie. can a GM tpi injector/rails/ECU setup be cobbled onto a Vic. jr and X throttlebody??) lookind fwd to info;-) PSS it's destination is my 280ZX V8 used as my only/daily driver that sees a lot of miles, highway and city with summer sessions at lapping days at SIR and Thunderhill etc and hopes for time for autox this summer.

quote: Originally posted by pparaska: No, it doesn't cut down the steady state pressure. Their theory is that rear wheel lockup is due to the sharp spike in braking on rear tires that have just been unloaded do to weight transfer. I wonder if there is any info from the stock car set (that isn't classified) on this topic. Pete, have you been to an autox and seen well prepared cars sorting out brake bias? It's not an 'instant' action, no one stomps their brakes, they get sqeezed like throttles (in roadracing anyhow) and you want to reach/find that point where your rear brakes lock up just before your front brakes for optimal bias. This gives you maximum warning if you're good without losing steering control. You'll often see one of these 'sweet' autox cars briefly lockup the rears, sorta like Grand Prix cars going to 10/10 on braking scale briefly as their wheel stops and then carries on, but we go 10/10 to find that point and then usually 9.5/10 from then on (for v. skilled drivers, rest of us 9/10 or so). If one had such a system that you knew would only give max. braking and no lockup we'd be diving into those corners like Porsches with their fine balance/braking ABS doing trail braking etc. In short I feel that lockup isn't due to a 'stomp' condition except from a rookie/untaught reaction and that the rear lockup function when set right is a valuable 'threshold' instrument. Ross (driving's 5% car, and 95% driver, only 90% left to learn) C

quote: Originally posted by pparaska: Yeah, the NASCAR guys use that setup. I agree it would be overkill unless you do 10/10 driving on a road course. Another product they had is the LBS - Lock resistant brake system. It's a dampener you put in line to the rear brakes. What it does is delay the full brake hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes to get away from shocking the rear tires into a slide when you stand on them. Their theory is that you don't need a brake proportioning valve, just an LBS (I think the LC/SB has this function as well). I put one on, after I had already put a proportioning valve in line (on the tunnel, underneath the driver's knee). Like everything else, I'll have to wait to test it out. Are you sure the 'dampener' could take a bias valve's place? I read what they had as well. I can see it taking out 'spikes' like a filter/dampener but overall it won't change the eventual total PSI heading to that specific end of the brake line, just prevent a v. sharp change was my thinking. ie. long braking from 140mph-60mph, you're into brakes for a second or so and their's plenty of time to 'max' the pressure going to your rear line etc......if it does in fact take a bias valve's place that'd be great, I can't see a mechanical piece that's non-adjustable doing that though on a unique/altered brake setup (ie. non-oem)?

Anyone looked at these at all? Interesting anyhow http://www.stewartcomponents.com/LC-SB.htm Quote: LC/SB BENEFITS: Works with all existing Calipers Weighs just one pound Prevents brake fluid boiling and caliper o-ring failure Firmer brake pedal response Reduced brake rotor temperatures Reduced brake pad wear Allows for quick initial system bleed Liquid Cooled The LC/SB cools the brake calipers by circulating a large volume of brake fluid through the calipers. Caliper heat is dissipated through cooling lines installed between the calipers and the master cylinder. Brake rotor temperature and pad wear is also reduced because the caliper 0-rings are cooled as well, allowing them to retract the pistons and establish a slight air gap between the rotor and pad. The system operates well below the fluid boiling point, so air bubbles caused by boiling are eliminated.

quote: Originally posted by mattrp: Yeah, I'm pretty sure your right, but I gotta deal with what I have. This fix solved all leaking issues there, so I'm happy. Matt 72 500Z well if it travels up your speedo cable (due to rotation or something similar, happened to one non-mechanic friend on his minivan) and starts dribbling down your dash you won't be so happy, not to rain on your parade but the O-ring/cup ring would be a simple shop install (or should be) or straightforward for yourself if you have a pick to remove the one inner cup one AIR, Oring one is straightforward generally. good luck

quote: Originally posted by zfan: MY 240Z HAS A OPEN BREATHER ON TOP OF THE REAR DIFF. IT USED TO HAVE A LINE RUNNING FROM IT TO THE TANK OR THAT VAPOR RETURN CASE WITH ALL THE HOSES CONNECTED FOR FUEL VAPOR RETURN. ANYWAY I NOTICED FLUID AROUND EXHAUST ETC. IT APPEARS TO BE COMING OUT VENT HOLE. HAS ANYONE ELSE HAD THIS PROBLEM OR DID YOU LEAVE VENT HOSE CONNECTED? IF SO WHAT DID YOU DO TO ALIEVIATE PROBLEM? THANKS IN ADVANCE. MIKE That's strictly a breather as the diff fluid expands/contracts cyclically during use/shutdown etc. Make sure your's isn't overfilled, remove the back inspection/fill plug (not bottom drain plug), fluid should be just beloe the level (ie. if its running out and car is sitting level that's OK, let it run out till done and now it should be at the right level). I can't see why else you'd have diff fluid coming out your breather. I've yet to have it come out of any of my breather's, that'd be like having oil spewing out your breather on your motor, if it's all done right it doesn't happen.

quote: Originally posted by Mikelly: Tony, What is a set of 1 3/4s running these days? Mike I'm ordering a set from rewareder shortly as he'll custom tweak them to fit my 280ZX for no change in cost and their price of $310 for a coated set of 1-3/4's built properly (still short/huggers (not full length) is v. reasonable IMO. Very open to any comments on these vendors or other options though, I'm about to mail him a check (Jim is away this week if you call rewarder with q's, he does the custom work). I'm trying to avoid needing special head/header adaptors/spacers. I also included any SAnderson's I thought were relevant (most 1-3/4's except the cc1ap) http://www.rewarderheaders.com/ http://www.centuryperformance.com/detail.asp?Product_ID=SDH-C32 http://www.centuryperformance.com/detail.asp?Product_ID=SDH-CC1AP http://www.centuryperformance.com/detail.asp?Product_ID=SDH-CC1-3/4

quote: Originally posted by John Scott: SCCA? Who, where is MIkefonebooth? Sorry, you lost me. JS check for member 'SCCA', he's in a few forums here and definitely under buysell forum, local racer who's put together various brake packages for Z's

quote: Originally posted by mattrp: Well, If any of you guys were as unlucky as I and your speedo cable from JTR has a leak at the crimp point between the outer cable and metal screw on portion that goes to the tranny I have a simple fix. Matt 72 500Z What's leaking out your speedo cable? Their's more going on than a cracked/poor crimp IMO. Unless your tranny is different from what I'm used to, tranny fluid is NOT supposed to come out of the speedo connection if it's all sealed up right. Their's two rubber seals their, one cup type rubber seal and one O-ring. I've also found few tranny shops replace these but if you do get a leak some are more than willing to replace yours free with some interesting chit-chat:-)

pretty sure SCCA (MIke/fonebooth) has this

quote: Originally posted by pparaska: Someday, I'm going to experiment with taking a 50 or 100 lb weight and moving it around in the car's luggage area to see if I can feel the effect. My guess is that this has more effect than you'd imagine. The moment of inertia (MOI) effect is proportional to the square of the distance (D) from the center of gravity of the car, and proportional to the mass (M). MOI = D*D*M So moving things closer to the CG has a large effect. I also put my battery behind the passenger seat on the luggage shelf, longitudinally and near the center of the car (just inboard of the strut tower). Nice sealed aluminum battery box from Summit also. Hmm, used a normal battery?? That and the battery box will be adding weight, can't help teasing you Pete when you get into this enjoyable detail. If you do replace your battery I'd recc'd an Optima or equivalent which doesn't outgas, is extremely durable/long lived. Mine has survived 3 alternator failures and other wiring booboos. Friends rolled race car had a dented Optima, they figured it was dead and hooked up some leads on it and touched them and made a MASSIVE spot weld:-) That's safety when a battery dents and stays intact IMO. Anyone that does put one in their car I'd recc'd centred b/t the axles (BLKMGC mentions on his rear axle, is this for drag use?, if so you might even want it slightly behind rear axle) and it's VERY handy to put a full disconnect switch adjacent to it. You only need v. short battery to frame leads for the ground etc and it's v. handy whenever you do work to just turn it off in a second (anti-theft too). I reccomend using single ought (O) welding leads at a minimum and OO moreso as it's extrememly low resistance (and the cable weight is down low anyhow:-) I used OOO cause it was cheap but likely overkill with solder on lugs on the ends for a permanent setup.

quote: Originally posted by John Scott: When I swapped in the 4.3, the change in PMI was amazing. The response to steering input seemed instantaneous. I'd love to see a comparo. with the V6 vs V8 vs L6 in twisting through the cones all with identical suspensions. I know which my money would be on JS John, so what is the weight difference b/t your 4.3 and an 8 with the 2 more cylinders? is their writeups on yours anywhere (mods/pics)? I"ve previously gotten info requests on doing the GM V6 swap but didn't know anyone to recc'd. Their is one in the Seattle area but I've never gotten any contact info.

quote: Originally posted by pparaska: Not to shoot holes in your ideas/cars guys, but all that cast iron turbo plumbing and equipment looks like it might weigh something considerable. How much do those IPR intercoolers and the piping weigh? The reason I'm asking is that stuff is far in front of the crossmember, and it increases the polar moment of inertia of the car. B] Ahh, love to see talk about PMI! Thought I was the only one throwing that around (holds true on other lists, haven't been in here as much). I have a lot of respect for turbo setups and their originators and I'd ponder v. few custom setups ever get pushed hard enough to notice/benefit a lot from a lowered PMR (polar moment of inertia) but those that are can sure benefit from the light/lower/centred approach. Particularly the heavier your car (ie. a 280z/280ZX vs. a 240Z) the more gain you'll see. Same reason I didn't put my battery in the 'standard' drag back of trunk and instead placed it right behind my pass. seat. Ross (small PMI and proud of it;^) back to classes......

I don't feel I knowingly sacrific safety. If it's a known weak link then sure replace it. I just hadn't come across that yet and having run with 26 members of team nwfbody 2 wks ago at the drags as well as being part of their online list I just figured I'd of heard of that as a weak link by know with some of the hardrun setups they're pushing including a few superchargers/roadracers etc. Now my curiousity is peaked and I'll be running it by them. Almost sounds like a good candidate for cryotreating if one were to stay with a steel one. I know I"ve always been interested in a tranny blanket if that was a risk, that and a driveshaft loop so I never have to fear doing a polevault at 120+mph (most hear running that loop ?) PS sure enjoy the 'straight' shooting info being posted on all forums:-)

I was exagerating with the 5mpg, 20 is rather good. But it seems like I'll need to chop the crossmember, or have the engine sit to far forward, and make the swap useless. Also, getting a 350 & tranny is easy, but to balance the weight out, all the aluminum parts add up $$ really fast, I was looking for something lighter on the frame/weight balance, and on the pocket. I have an Zxt engine that I recieved with the car, but its totally apart, and there's a good deal of stuff missing. I figured if I'm going to blow all this money rebuilding and finding/buying new parts for this engine, why not go 350, but the car being a ZX I'm looking for something that will work better.[/b] Well having a 350 280ZX the crossmember/rear steering rack certainly is a pain in the ass as your motor does end up sitting about 1" higher than I'd like. Leaves minimal hood clearance but it all can be dealt with etc. I've run mine at 300hp for a few years now with a drop down aircleaner and am finally going to drop it down that 1" (had my pan clearanced somewhat) to open up the inlet path. Be sure to price out full costs of other motors/setups as most parts you'd likely buy would be similar for either conversion IMO (radiator/driveshaft/fan etc) besides the actual motor. Lt1's aren't that pricey these days and are a fine lighter weight setup as is any base chevy shortblock with aluminum heads and the intakes are available used along with many other parts. My V8 280ZX was 49/51 weight balance with iron heads and a large truck battery up front (for the ex-stereo). Moving my battery into a toolpocket and going aluminum heads changed this to 50/50 with very enjoyable handling. This is with crossmember stock (I have non power rack'n'pinion fwiw). My engine mounts sit directly above my crossmember (easy mount setup) and it's as close to my firewall as I'd like it. My hood latch is stock and my dizzy slides in underneath it for easy servicing as well, my bellhousing/flange is v. close to being flush to my firewall and I have lots of room left up front for electric fan and daylight:-) Lots of motors can be fun, just wanted you to know how a sbc can be fitted in and run (4 yrs daily driver now).

Are you sure the other measurements are within spec of what's listed in a Mitchell manual? Your local ICBC or experienced shop should be able to give you a photocopy of the other critical dimensions. If you know the one dimension you're checking is the only one that was astray and you didn't create any other differences in your changes I"m certain 1/16" is tolerable. I had my car pulled/majorly repaired this spring from a front end twist and recall >1/16" being accepted industry standard but mine was pulled to at least <=1/16" difference on all measurements.

First of heard that one should upgrade from the OE flywheel? Numerous friends have been racing these for quite a while now locally in the northwest in camaro's without troubles (occasional clutch replacement). Is it considered necessary on any sbc or at 400hp etc?

I'm surprised at the 'long' springs I'm reading about up to 12" in length and the bottoming out issues. My experience is with my '80 280ZX substantially heavier than the 240's but likely lighter than some 280Z's running around (I'm lighter than an OE 280zx). I have the www.ground-control.com setup on my car. I like their hardware but have been less than impressed (being polite) with their product support. Only reason I went with them and not Mike/fonebooth (I've seen and enjoyed Mike's hardwear/upgrades) was I'd already cut a deal on my 5ways tokico's and I'd had a hard time finding anyone experienced on 280ZX roadracing spring rates. Aside from that I'm running Eiback springs with 7" 350lb/in springs up front and 8" springs (can't recall rate) out back combined with Tokico 5 way struts. I told them my cars specs and uses (daily driver with emphasis on great handling the few times each summer I get out for a lapping day at a raceway roadcourse) and they spec'd the springs. I have it set just below stock height and have no bottoming out issues at all. I had 8" springs up front and the lower collar interfered with my 16x8 wheels/custom hub combo so I went to the 7" springs to raise this collar. I normally drive streetwise with struts set at #1. I use #2 satisfactorily for autox with enough weight transfer. I've been using 3 and 4 for roadracing/lapping events with success although it's a little tight for slow hairpins when set their but certainly tolerable considering other 120mph+corner etc. I moved some rubber 'bumps' to the bottom of my struts to see what my max travel in daily use was and never had more than 3" if that of susp. travel which is fairly stiff but my roads are v. poor. I'd consider it fine on smooth roads and completely enjoyable on any highway conditions. I just received a pair of front adjustable camber/caster upper strut mounts v. similar to GC's stuff but from a local friend. They offset the strut centre mounting point rearward and outward to account for the lowering of the car besides the adjustability of the upper plate. I look fwd to installing these so I can lower my car a little more and still retain v. good susp/alignments. hope my .02c made sense

Measure the complete car to see if it's square, a body shop or insurance shop should have the diagrams from Mitchell's manual to tell you what measurements should be. ie. front hood corners to opposite rad support and then frame rails to ground (assuming it's set up level) and other measurements (I'm not a whiz on this, just seen it done on my car after a frame 'tweak')

Yes, agreed their are two HEI types. One large with coil in cap and one smaller with remote coil. I use the coil in cap as it's one less accesory to mount up and the larger cap that goes with the coil in cap model makes for a greater distr. post spacing to further prevent crossfire/arcing. HEI setups are not exclusive to computer models by any means. Just yesterday I picked up a billet Proform dizzy to replace mine with worn shaft/bearing etc. it's for 78-80 pickups and a host of other vehicles. If this was the only factor stopping me from 3/4" of setback I'd go with the remote coil. But on my 280ZX I already am lighter than stock and 50/50 weight balance and if I go any further back it could make in car access to tranny bolts almost impossible and I know it might make head swap/cam swap v. difficult if not impossible. Keep in mind I have the ZX not Z, I kept my stock hoodlatch but did have to grind a portion of its support (minor in strength issue) off on the pass. side to imprpove clearance on one plug wire (I do not run the 'wire cover' extra cap/cover some do, can't see the point, ever see an HEI terminal fly off? no, never!) Beauty of HEI (and others I'd guess) is it's so easy to service/replace any part. I started out with a free dizzy and now have one with all new stuff (bought bare dizzy yesterdy and put my old (but fairly new) cap/crane coil etc on it)