Modern Motorsports Ltd

quote: Originally posted by dankinzle: Thanks. Looks like I'll be able to close off those open headers sooner than I thought. I guess the neighbors will appreciate it. . Has anyone installed one of those things to make your car open exhaust to get rid of the sleeper effect at will? Dan, I've yet to hear a 'sleeper/quiet' V8Z with any real street stomping power...anyone comes up with an exhaust system that's quiet and doesn't interrupt 400flywheel hp and doesn't require major floor panel surgery I'm all ears. I have a ringing in my ears (not from my car) and it'd be almost priceless to get a 'quiet' system that still performed under my car. The quiet part is most neccessary from idle to 2400rpm, at throttle can have some 'noise' but I've found so much less police attention with quiet setups, the thumpers and squealers (those with cheap tires and/or poor traction) can keep all that attention to themselves as I squirt on by. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

quote: Originally posted by pauli: i would think that plugs, hoses, overflow tanks and even the radiator would go before the block... The pressure zone of the freezing liquid is not the entire length of the it's routing. Their are several 'smaller' passages within the block not adjacent to a freezeplug so block cracking can occur quite easily. FWIW the fluid being pressurized by the expanding ice/frozen zone can easily exert 29,000PSI during this hydrofracturing process FWIW, one fella had his sbc block completely prepped to the nth degree for big $'s and was then assembling it himself.....wanted to be sure the main cap bolts were well lubed and poured some oil into the bolt holes....started bolt torque down...crack he was steaming just a little ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

You've hit your force equilibrium for your current setup. Your rearwheel hp at 5000rpm is equal to your aerodynamic resisting force at that speed. You need to increase power or decrease resistance to bump your equilibrium point. L28T's go into the 140's/150's so I'm sure you can to with some mods. What's left to be done on your ride for easy mods (overall breathing)? If you have 2k rpm's left you may as well jump your rear gear. I just got a v. excited feedback from a Z31 owner (with lots of mods) who installed a 4.11 I sent him. My system crashed so I don't have it handy but in short: "Off the line really improved but in the upper rpm band at higher speed the gain is unreal, I could not accelerate or even reach these topends before that I can now comfortably run up to." He was just crawling up to 140 or so before and now can actually accelerate to that. Often an overlooked mod is maximizing your gearing. Keep your eyes open and look around for some 4.11's and enjoy:-) ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

quote: Originally posted by jeromio: What's a GTR motor? Japanese Skyline GTR, kickass modern day version of the Datsun L series

quote: Originally posted by johnnydinx: Where did you buy your ram air box? Or did you fabricate this yourself? http://www.ramairbox.com/ they're often in the back of chevy hop-up mags as well ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

just my general .02c non turbo comment... I'd certainly pull my head and verify piston specs/deck height/headwork (if any) BEFORE committing to any other parts since your setup's been hinted at having had some work done...we never do know what the owner did or even a builder to make things work as he did...if you weren't putting the boost on it or trying to tap it's potential I wouldn't worry, but good to know your basics are as assumed..

quote: Originally posted by Morgan: Sure, but like what? It would have to be rigid and have a large volume to minimize pressure changes as the manometer fluid moves up and down. Morgan, how about plumbing your manometer hose to a 5 or 10 gallon compressed air tank like all us motorsports junkies have. Your manometer fluid isn't moving that much to create a significant pressure change by displacement given compressibility of air IMO. If differences are quite small accuracy can be gained by tilting the manometer as far over as is convenient. (ie. a 2" change on a pure vertical measurement is 2", tilt that to a 4H:1V slope (ie. 12" run for 3" rise)and you're measuring the same 2" vertical change but over a 8-1/4" range (slope of 8h:2v) and increased precision of measurement by ~4x's. Useful if you do find differences to be quite small that would be immeasureable on a pure vertical. (used a manometer once or twice ) PS thanks a mint for all your efforts to date and to come, we can all talk till we're blue but working from real Z data is a nice progression:-) ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

quote: Originally posted by Morgan: YIKES!!!!! It was late, I goofed up that message. The front 1/2 of the hood is around 2 inches VACUM relative to the cabin, not pressure. Hmm, I didn't catch the relative to the cabin part before. I guess they'll all be relative to each other at least but not neccessarily to atmospheric as your cabin will have some difference right? Now with a vaccuum their as you say and the positive pressure (I just have to assume this, we force a lot of air in and it's not easy for it to get out) inside the engine bay makes more sense on the ducts existing on some race cars etc. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

Hmm, may have been in Zcar mag a while back. I remember reading it and seem to recall it had too much Z content to be in anything but a Z mag..... I don't recall them hitting 200mph though... ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

Forgot to mention, you use machinists blue or similar to check out the wear pattern after assembly...no good wipe clean and reshim....etc

quote: Originally posted by Morgan: You have to keep the gearsets matched, just like any other differential. YES! And you may need to assemble a few times until you get your shims setup right so the 'new' assembled gear wear pattern looks v. good (ie. v. 'flat' parallel to the surface so no cutting is going on). I haven't set them up but friend have done diffs etc and once you do know how to do one and have the oedometer etc they're all quite similar I've been told. Pete, if you have a 10mm and 12mm handy why not crack them apart (I know you've had the LSD apart before;^) and get some sleeves done...I'll buck up for 2 sets myself. Diff shops would have lots of the shims etc to get that to spec and you can do a FAQ once done:-) Ross (just seems like a Pete project ) C ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

I'll be especially keen to hear pressure's from the front wheel wells fwd of the tires and rearward as well:-) Their's a reason rads and airboxes have been tucked in their on some v. 'neat' cars I'd quite enjoy an airbox up front behind my drivers headlight in the wheelwell;-) I've heard it can be quite a high pressure zone, be curious how it measures on a 240 but especially on my ZX. How'd you make your manometer Morgan? I have a digital temp guage with a 3' lead on it but haven't got to using it yet:-( ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

quote: Originally posted by Morgan: The leading 1/2 of the hood had a fairly constant pressure profile - 1.5-2 inches of water at around 100mph over the whole surface. In the foot or so at the middle of the hood the pressure dropped rapidly to roughly 0 at any speed up to 100mph. From there back the pressure was constant at 0 all the way back to the trailing edge of the hood. In layman's terms, this means the best place to vent underhood air out is in the rear 1/2 of the hood, and a hood scoop would be best placed in the leading 1/2 of the hood to take the best advantage of the dynamic pressure. I'd caution against assuming it's best to vent from rear half of the hood. To move air or anything you either need a push or pull in 'laymans terms'. The higher pressure restrained (quite confined by hood as a boundary surface) by the hood will continue along the hood surface and if the NACA duct is designed right could serve to pull the air out. Refineries routinely use injection of this nature on pipelines etc, 30 degree to the approach/feed site of the pipe and the mainstream sucks the 'injection' along with it. Same as any soap/chemical additive on your garden hose. It's taken along for the ride, the mainstream doesn't revert into the lower pressure feed as it has an easier outlet ahead in it's direction of momentum/inertia. I think that air running by would 'drag it out' (picture the air as water flowing by, it does have mass/fricton after all as does your exhaust). Of course the underhood data would be great to know as well:-) Their are many cars ducting on front 1/3 of the hood in a rearward NACA duct for race purposes and OEM design. Others have a forward Naca duct so this air is sucked in. At the base of our windshield is another matter as it's not full laminar flow so cowl's work when not even optimally setup:-) Cowl's also work best when they're a sealed unit (ie. sealed from underhood pressures/rad air etc) so it has a vaccuum from the engine ingestion and will definitely suck it on in:-) ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

It certainly can't hurt to seam weld the panels/joints together and this does add a lot of stiffness to the car. A $30 book can pay off pretty quick IMO but each his own, I guess I just enjoy reading it even though it wasn't specific to my ZX it brings up numerous points many might miss and covers some sound engineering . If I was to buy my spacers I sure like JTR's minimal 'I' tower design in aluminum and it looks sweet IMO.As for your hood latch, I'm not sure if anyone is using MSA stuff here, hence my JTR question. The JTR book says it must be done, using the smaller remote coil dizzy does allow you to go back an additional 1/2" though. What position does the MSA kit place your engine in? You want at least a 3" setback IMO. It gets v. expensive to create an improved handling car otherwise. Look fwd to hearing your info on MSA.

Not fully related but I'm sure some who could use this info will read this thread, came across this in my archives and I'm sure some wouldn't mind having these PN"s handy. (for a clutch posi R200 from NM as mentioned above) Complete p/n's and pricing are as follows: 38432-N9000 Friction Plate (1.75mm) 32.37 ea 38432-N9001* Friction Plate (1.85mm) 32.37 ea 38433-N9000* Friction Disc 34.79 ea 38437-71S00* Side Spacer 15.60 ea All item are available. P/N's with an asterisk (*) are OE and will take an additional day or so to obtain. Your order will be processed upon receipt of a VISA/MasterCard # and proper shipping address. Ring & pinion sets weigh approximately ten (10) lbs.

Nissan Motorsports does and is available at 310-538-2610/ fax 310-538-1462 or email at mc.race@nissan-usa.com They don't have anything more really than what's available on the street though. Although if it's not locatable on the street obviously it's great to have them around. They have the standard ratios from 3.36->4.11. Only the 3.36 that I know of with no OEM 12mm bolt source, I'm still skeptical that 10mm vs 12mm is really a weakness?? (seems to me it hasn't shown up as one yet). If I wasn't in school I"d be having bushings made so's my 3.36's and 4.11's could go into LSD pumpkins. I didn't follow what you meant by 'cheaper in the long run' Mike? New gears vs. used?? Or a gear swap vs. a blower;^) Here's your PN for the 4.11 12mm R&P 38100-16S01 and it has a '*' beside it was available as an OEM part (maybe you can get it thru normal dealer/OEM discounts??, not NM?) let us know:-) ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

What about your front frame rails 'looks like they need it' makes you think they need more welding? Corrosion/cracked welds.....? Do you have the JTR book? (had to ask, haven't heard of anyone ordering MSA who does have it, if you can weld I'd guess you would've made the mounts, just my .02c) One area that often comes up as a weak spot can be the swaybar tie-ins near the front frame rail. Reinforce this area so they don't tear out. You may get away from the easy hood latch mod but generally it's needed for a decent rearward engine displacement. Seen many people go to great pains to avoid this and finally just do it in the end as it's usually the right thing. More with Z experience will comment I'm sure (mine's a ZX and my dad's Lt1 Z doesn't have a rear dizzy:-). keep pics etc as they're great memories years later to enjoy (wish I'd taken more) good luck ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

quote: Originally posted by BLKMGK: Stay away from the late model Cobra rears. Those folks are breaking the halfshafts on the launch pad anytime they add sticky tires! But where are they busting them? if anyplace but the immediate outboard flange it wouldn't consern me. If I were to use one I'd most likely have 280ZXT CV shafts welded to the Cobra units or mated on that outboard flange if parts could be found. And do they get an angularity issue when they get stickies on their? ie. they now have an IRS and I'm guessing they get some squat that might not be accounted for in their setup (I'm guessing new cars, minimal mods, ie. no home improvement on susp. yet...improved rear launch angles etc?) could be wrong.... ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

Into what car Alex? Your Z32 NA motor died or?? I'd just love to see one in a Z32:-)) Yet to come across a good body/dead motor Z32, usually the other way around... Let us know what your intended chassis is and what power/manners/performance you'd like to have:-) ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

quote: Originally posted by scca: havent seen them but a mustang 5 lug rear brake setup is only a single piston caliper EVEN the cobras.... and the rotor is about a 11" diameter. so not any better than using 280ZX stuff IMO Current late model cobras do have a fine rear brake system of 11.6" diameter AIR but their upcoming ebrake recall has me concerned. Haven't heard the reason but it's due top a few of them rolling away and ebrake failure etc. It's as much more rotor and a little more piston at a minimum I want, a lot more piston and rotor would be gravy. As for using that Tbird rear subframe, it looked v. heavy to me??I have a hard time seeing gearing below 3.36 really justified and given that's available (albeit expensive, but diff rebuilds on any donor aren't cheap) no huge need to change. IF someone packaged an improved rear susp/diff/brakes the benefit MIGHT become worthwhile IMO. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

OK, for those of us into our brake upgrades... anyone looked at these Tbird rear brakes as donors for us 5 lug's? Mike have you seen them before? http://www.mn12performance.com/mn12how-to/irs/irs.html vented disks but not sure if they're larger than my ZX oe stuff... just caught my eye and hoped to start a ball rolling;^) ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

quote: Originally posted by Mikelly: I don't think first gear would be hindered that much, and I'm not doing a lot of 1/4 mile so it wouldn't matter. I'm preping the car to do the Nevada Silver state challenge or the Blue Blocker, and a few other events. Mike What are others experiences with this? My 1st WOT is useless unless 245 R compounds are on and you'd end up with a higher final drive ratio in 1st than I if you went to 4.11's(mine below 11 and yours above). No big deal IMO as then the power is obviosly their and you start out in 2nd as Ron Tyler always did in his Lt1T56240z (1st was useless). (I normally 'drop' into 2 right off the bat for a killer long 22222;^) As long as 2nd and 3rd didn't escape usefullness/traction as well, all the more fun. I assume you're hunting for the rare but obtainable 12mm 4.11's found in a later 80's 200sx (not all~87 turbo, I don't have specific dates) to simply swap into your 3.7 LSD? I had a set a while ago but sold to someone who'd make use of them. Local fella did a set as well into a VLSD he used custom (welded) halfshafts with. He enjoys it immensely in his high hp autox Z. Just stay within the god of traction envelope and enjoy...(and rule out R compound traction as they're usually not allowed in the events you're planning) PS Mike, have you started stocking up on Nomex yet? better add that to your xmas list:-) ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

I'd sure need a lot of motivation to put an R230 (Z32 TT) diff under my ride. One local guy has it and I"d guess it ways as much or more than my heavy 700R4 tranny. BIG HEAVY unit. Two characteristics I try to avoid. I'd look at a Dana 44 vette IRS unit long before. Their 80-82 had aluminum case and are often avoided as they had a Cclip weakness as the halfshaft acted as a control arm and on this 80-82 unit the Cclips would wear so eventually you could pop an axle on hard cornering. BUT in our use we wouldn't use it as a structural susp. member (the halfshaft)so this would not be of concern and they're available (I know of one in 3.07:-) along with easy to get/affordable rebuild parts. OR (and I haven't seen this) a '99/00 ford IRS (ie. stang) unit. I know a mech that has one for sale minus halfshafts but NO time to check it out. Not sure they'd offer gears below 3.45 or maybe 3.23 though (unless it's standard ford 9"?, anyone know?) Jim Biondi's R200 clutch LSD stood up fine so I"m not concerned for my use:-) BUt it's fun thinking about it.. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

Emphasizes just one eason I don't like header wraps. Easy sponge for an oil leak from most anywhere (valve covers/intake/dizzy etc) and definitely exposed to heat and potential spark (starter wires etc..). good reminder Mike, got my extinguisher too:-)

quote: Originally posted by Morgan: Any comments on gussetting the cage? like little triangular pieces of plate welded at the inside angle of every joint? Is there a danger of making a cage too stiff(I can't imagine that) or anything like that? Any suggestions on attaching it to the body? Just nice big plates to weld to, nothing special? I haven't done it yet but did all my background for it. You won't typically see my suggestions done as they're not common knowledge. My advice and drawing came from an ex Nascar chassis/cage builder and current member of another race team under confidence. You can make your connections too stiff...YOU want the car and cage to behave as one. Connected well their strength is far greater than sum of two parts. He rec'd a full weld of your tube ends to your anchor plates. (here's the switch) BUT your anchor plate to car welds he rec'ds staggered welds of (I'd have to look up my dwg) ~1" weld 1.5" gap and 1" weld etc as you go around the plate perimeter. This allows this connection to flex WITH the car keeping max strenth (cage alone or car alone is no good to you). If it were too stiff it could be inclined to separate from a flexing car. Other v. important point he stressed was having your main hoop as TIGHT to your body as POSSIBLE. Even if you have to winch it together with a cum-a-long to get it inside the car/into position and then when it relaxes it's tight to your outer pillars. You then want it TIED IN to your pillars and roof every 18-24" with a small tab welded to hoop and roof/pillar. This again combines the cage/chassis strength for a greater sum. Keep in mind that's my version of what he stressed but I feel I relayed it accurately and it makes total sense to my engg mind. PS he mentioned many rear tower connections are done v. poorly and will punch thru their tower easily (ie. tower approaching your head!)when done with a fwd facing plate on one edge of tower. I'd have to check the dwg for detail on this connxn. AIR a top integral cap was preferred. Hope that's discernable...He hit a wall with just a race rollbar at 140mph and walked away so has benefitted from his attention to detail (since then he won't do motorsports w/o a full cage) There's more than one way to meet a spec, Mine will be done locally by a guy I trust who agrees with my expectations. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.