Modern Motorsports Ltd

Looking fine!! 720cc injectors for street?? ~72pph, my god!! 5-650+hp is your build?? we need guys like you to keep tire R&D going:-) ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

quote: Originally posted by pparaska: If you put in the crosmember spacers, it lowers the crossmember and the engine. There's a thread or two on this. I know others have had a hard time seeing this (I thought it worked the way you said at first glance also), but this is how it works. Glen, we last had this thread because I saw it as you did. Then thru discussion realized the crossmember HANGS from the frame and is only connected to the struts via a double pinned connection (the control arm) so no way can it affect height. Same with strut spacers as they install below the spindle/strut interface so only lower the outer control arm end. One thing I've seen and liked was on a local v. full race/prepared 383 Z (he won some award at the NZCC in Vegas this summer, or a few awards). He installed triangular 'wedges' (like an upside down shark fin) on his Xmember in line with his headers (which are his low point) so if he nails a bump it physically (in theory and practise I'd guess) jolts his car up but misses his collectors (or hits the object sending it elsewhere if it's smaller, ie. not a manhole cover:-)d He used 1/4" 2x4 HSS with the one side mitred so two 'fins' were left hanging down from each one. Pete, 70-78 JTR installs w/o this xmember spacer are already lower than my ZX install so can't compare directly although all feedback is welcome. If I dropped an inch I'd likely almost come to where a normal JTR install might be. My engine is far from being level with a dip from front to back so dropping it will allow the rear to stay somewhat fixed and can only improve my angles. Anyone have experience with the true GM motor mounts at a lot higher $? Their was a specific one Ron Tyler used that he fealt (along with his al. driveshaft) really contributed to making it a v. smooth car. Ron and the otehr V8Z'rs that rode in his car also fealt it was the smoothest (no/minimal vibes) V8z setup. Been wondering if anyone else has any similar experiences or knows GM uses a better dampener than others....one of my mounts has been cracked for a while so time for replacement ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

are you worried you'll dramatically change the preload and wear patterns? 180ft-lbs was spec AIR which is damn tight...tolerances are mostly in the shims/gear setup etc AFAIK. Having done some 5 yokes or more by now on my own/dads/friends/sold LSD's and not a hint of any troubles just FWIW. Was a simple 10 min. max swap. Lots of miles on mine and others by now. just FWIW, I"d be hanging onto that $ Oh yeah, my dad already had a skookum aluminum driveshaft built with not so common high speed balancing so we weren't going to cut that one up:-) [This message has been edited by Ross C (edited November 05, 2000).]

quote: Originally posted by Morgan: Realistically I'd get an OE system or a carb and spend the pile of money you save on something else...... like bigger wheels or whatever. I think Mike has bought all else he needs already:-) (lucky guy) I'd seriously hop on the DIYEFI list and in a flash they'd lay out the advantages of each system, I"ll fwd some emails on a recent similar thread they had on someone with a turbo motor looking for best bang/buck system. Here's one agreed on by a few for his application (not saying it's best for Mike's) </snip> Speed Pro Bank to Bank Systems Package includes: Bank to Bank ECU, Wideband O2, Base Program, C-Com software, Interface cable, PTE Custom vehicle interface, 3 bar MAP sensor Complete System ONLY: $1795!!! </end snip> see: http://www.precisionte.com/ for more info... ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

quote: Originally posted by Arif: I just swapped out my 3.54 diff for a 3.7 LSD and I always thought the higher the gear the lower the top end mph you make? Is this correct with all other factors remaining constant? I know that mpg will suffer a bit and I'll have a better take off but what other things should I expect with this LSD? Yes you increased your mechanical advantage by 4.5% so decreased your 'potential' topend by same (I say potential as often a gear ratio increase like yours can increase topend as your car has more power at that limit to overcome drag etc etc, ever done 6000 in 5th gear?) If your motor is well setup you'll see minimal mpg change if any (saw none on my L28 from 3.36-3.9, made it way more functional) assuming you have some overdrive gears if you're doing highway. What you will gain and what I see as the biggest asset (keep in mind I'm not a stoplight junkie) is far better cornering throttle control, I just loved that when I first experienced it (I'd had the 8 a while w/o LSD) and would never give that up now. Enjoy:-) ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

Thanks Mike, did you add strut spacers or were your control arms still horiz. or otherwise? have you played with tie rod/control arm geometry at all? I don't doubt yours handles v. well. I've kept mine just a hair below stock height and surprised many at the track including my passengers. I've also ridden in a kickass 510 that could (it seemed) turn figure 8's at 115mph and see no unbalancing at all..(he took me thru 3 or 4 corners in a row flat out steady at T-hill) .I know it's a huge range to get that last true comfort. Good to know it's working fine for you Mike, if I know your other susp. mods that'd be great, if they're on a URL just point me to it. (you're running similar size treads as me right? or larger? I"m running 245s) I want to make sure I'm not ignoring some other factor and JTR was 1/2" AIR so wondering if 1" poses any problems....can't see outer knuckle doing to low with my high ID/clearance 16x8's, just thinking out loud on line here. ------------------ Ross Corrigan '80 280zx '98 roller 350 with rpm heads/vic. jr. intake/ZZ4 cam (mixed rockers) 13" front brakes, 16x8's all around 50/50 f/r with 7/8's fuel and me in the seat at 3110lbs

U've got mail:-)

quote: Originally posted by Randy79 280ZX8: The part number for the Hooker headers is #2147 just got them for my 79 ZX the driver side is 2 piece comes apart to install dont see any problems with it, and i have the Scarab type engine placement. Randy, what size tubes are they? hugger/full length and where is your engine? (I know you said scarab but I don't know where that is in a ZX) mounts straight on your Xmember just shimmed up to clear pan? thanks

quote: Originally posted by 81280zx: drax, i have a new MSA catlog and they have a kit for the 79-83 280zx, it's more money and the description is a little vague($225.00, for motor, and transisssion mouts(700r4 tranny). I notice they offer NO headers for the ZX. Sure wish they had pics of the ZX mounts, I'd love to know how they get their hood clearance, as I recall from John Haag's they have some integral motor mount/frame rail/xmember piece..... What's their return policy like?

Thinking (had no time to do...with school) about gaining my hood clearance etc.... I read up on roll centres a while back and been thinking on the JTR recc'd Xmember to frame spacer of 1/2" or so (don't recall and book is in garage, if I go get it I know I'll be distracted for a while). I understand I need to (should) correct control arm geometry (near or above horiz. desired) to compensate for lowering car and crossmember in the end and the steering rack/control arm geometry should be corrected as well (lower or raise tie rod ends to make them parallel). Basically wondering if a 1" frame spacer would be unreal or 3/4" etc as I could really use this 'hood' space and thinking thru the influences (ie. can't exceed steering shaft length;^). thanks...oh yeah, I know I don't want to decrease my ground clearance and lower my pan tooo much either

Welcome aboard Seymour:-) I'm not sure if anyone has done a swap with your steering setup or not. That's the most unique thing b/t some 280ZX's IMO. The rest is v. similar for swapping details. I have a '79 rack/n/pinion OE setup with sbc. So you need to find out what headers/manifolds will fit. As well you can save dough on motor mount spacers as on a 280ZX it lines up dead even with the Xmember (we have 3" less from Xmember to firewall compared to Z's), so just 'shim' it up with JTR mounts on your xmember and shims b/t that and your block. From above you'll find hood clearance tighter than others as well. I'm still wrestling with this but you do need a drop down air cleaner housing. I highly reccomend a Griffin rad and many other parts. Let us know your overall budget and goals (whether specific times/hp or to beat certain cars etc) and this list will be great to help with decisions along the way. My V8 280ZX is lighter than stock 50/50 balanced, 13" front brakes and 16x8's with 245's and coilovers/5 ways etc, but it morphed many times till now and will continue:-)

Thanks guys:-) I have some printing and a return phone call to make. I'm sure I"m not the only one who finds it sooooo RIDICULOUS how hard it can be to get others to buy a simple book before/when they plan on spending $$$$'s. Guess that's what makes a lot of us different, word of mouth isn't always the truth till you get it from a good one eh;^)

I'm not leary of spacers once I got up to speed on their important aspects. For someone open to spacers I can sell the 5 spoke Riken's (like Motorsport Auto usually has on a few cars) in 16x7 +20mm offset for $525 brand new, not a common look and v. desireable by some. The zero offset I cleared out a long time ago.

thanks Drax, just the baseline I needed to see in my head....yeah graphs...was doing Peak Ground Acceleration/Probability graphs earlier today..oops sidebar Great stuff, I haven't got to reading Corkies part in Dec. GRM although I did read that engine swapper, good detail on some but poor detail on chevies. I'm tried to avoid becoming edjumacated on turbo builds as I have enough on the go but gotta keep my non-net friends having fun so keep it coming:-) I think a FAQ could be v. well written by the 64 posts and counting written here...(couldn't possibly be as long to print off as this:-) "potential L28 Turbo builds ins/outs" Anyone want to take that one on?? I've come across 2 likely SDS buyers for late winter to early spring FWIW (non-net again). (I think the FAQ proposed if completed could add some buyers towards achieving a GP)

if it's in here I missed it, what octane gas is required at what boost/hp levels? thanks, great info guys PSS as well what rpm band (anyone with a dyno curve?) is this waking up...

got a call from a friend tonight.....he'd like to know what a 'smart' buildup of an L28T motor would be, what can he achieve on pump gas of above octane range for boost levels and hp output? what rpm range would this produce in? and any URL's or reccomended builds? he's leaning toward an SU drawthru setup as he'd like to stay away from a lot of wiring but I mentioned aftermarket EFI setups aren't always a big 'mess'....he's not on web so I'll just pass it all on to him.. thanks (he'd looked into that Jim Wolf Supercharger unit last year to find out they aren't selling it anymore, not sure if they sold any as I've yet to hear of anybody with one on many boards/lists?)

quote: Originally posted by MYRON: What do you guys think: A supersoft rear suspension letting the car "squat" to rapidly and killing the ujoints?? Myron I can't see how your 'rate of squat' kills them. They're killed by either shock load or angularity. Many (not neccessarily on this list) setup suspension so it looks/measures perfect sitting flat w/ no driver under no load. For 1/4 mile/hard launches it should be idealized so on full load/squat the joints see as little angularity as possible. (ie. if they have 4 degrees rolling/minimal load big deal, it's under load at 0-1 degree we'd like to see). For the shock load I have no experience but two cars same setup and one can blow joints due to driver induced shock loads while other driver can bring it on 'smoother' and prolong the life of these shock-prone items, that's from feedback via serious drag racing friends I occasionally benchrace with. Raising or lowering the diff/xmember seems to be the easiest way or in combination with changing rear ride height as well to achieve this correct geometry. Same applies to roadracing, setting up for best geometry sitting flat with no load won't help on full kick corner exit where you want max tread planted/traction etc.... Now if only I had all the tools to accomplish this easily on my own:-(O) Good luck and keep us posted, I'm doing school 100% now and NEED to have some stories to live vicariously thru right now!

quote: Originally posted by Head: sorry if it has. I was just wondering if 16x8 rims would fit on my 280zx w/o clearance problems. I'm planning on putting in eibach springs later on down the road and possibly some struts. If so, I'll just go with 15x8's. Thanks Brian sure they will if you use an offset that's appropriate to your car, I have 16x8's with 245/45/16's BUT converted 5 lug hubs and brakes etc, you will have to push them out a little as 16x7's with zero offset fit but no room for more when I had OE setup on the inside. If you plan on changing susp. at all that might influence/create more room now is a nice time to do it so you can max your wheel combo without going thru a few combo's meantime. I don't think 15 vs 16 will make much difference, 15" might even be tighter to your strut than a 16" at full turn given your geometry. Jack your front end and measure clearances with tire drooped and blocked with steering wheel at full turn each way, one direction your rim will come v. close to the strut and I found this tighter than tire/strut clearance with OE setup. Certainly worth the hour max to check it all out as max rubber is fun:-)

quote: Originally posted by Drax240z: Ross, have you talked to Dan Giroux about it? No, but I know Danny pretty well of 'Poopy Head Motors' (seen his bus. card:-)? My friend looking into this swap knows Danny quite well and we've been over their numerous times throughout his 'gradual' (yrs+) planned/ongoing swap TT into his Z. nice pic Morgan BTW, a friend Dave Lum in Bearverton Oregon has a VG30DE in his 510 (only twin cammer I know of in a 510, their's several single cam setups including the kit), I won't reply to the 'silly' comment though, if we all thought/felt the same this world would get v. boring v. fast

all fine info above, if budget is 'truly' small right now (I progressively built mine over 4yrs running 99% of the time) I would buy a powertrain from a early 90's TPI camaro, you'll benefit greatly from all the accessories (brackets/bolts/dizzy/starter etc etc etc) and can later bump to a bigger motore if you like, you can even carb the above motor if you want initially (intakes and carbs are cheap 2nd hand, less than 1/2 new and carbs are easy to kit out, I think a new carb owner/installer should have a carb book anyhow for dialing it in). Lots of options, if you can part with the money I'd go new or from a known local reliable source for a recently build/barely used etc. Not sure if you've written up a full budget, powertrain can be as low as 50-70% of initial cost if rest of car is already maintained (ie. susp. is good etc), or can be even less. (I hate seeing people snowed by 'false budgets and abandoning projects)

quote: Originally posted by Scottie-GNZ: Ross, I can understand the fascination of the TT, but just the mere mention of the word "cheap" implies there are some budget constraints. Hey you won't find me on a TT tangent:-) Kicking their heavy asses isn't so hard IMO. I probably already got too deep in this thread already. My friend isn't looking for other mod options for the 84-86 Z31. The TT came up and he's been thinking about it for a while. He is not cheap and not a newcomer to spending money. He has two award winning full resto's including a gold 260Z (from Albuquerque if anyone remembers) and a 84 300ZX AE. So he knows what goes into a proper resto. I don't think he wants to get into messing with engine internals (I'd ask him but we swap emails late at night). So if noone has done a TT into a Z31 then that most likely answers his q. This was not the usual 'justify' this swap type of q. I already delivered opinions echoing many above last summer when he first mentioned it. His efforts are a labour of love, not one of picking the easiest/cheapest route neccessarily. Having done two wicked resto's he's toying with what concept he wants his first 'rod' to be. I appreciate and I'm sure he appreciates as well the great opinions coming out so no offense intended.

A friend has a great line on a Z32 with some frame damage but basically intact powertrain. He's been trying to find anyone that might have done a Z32TT into an 84-86 Z31 or any Z31 for that matter. Anyone........

It's a rather unique rod setup he's got a big interest in doing. A friend of his has a 400hp or more fully custom Z31 setup so he's aware of it's strengths. It'd cost a lot more motorwise to build a Z31 to Z32 outputs if you get the Z32TT powertrain cheap I'm guessing. Nice to keep OE ECU as well(not my arena, you wouldn't find me touching anything with more wires than valves;^)

Morgan: typically a vaccuum advance unit is just that, with vaccuum it advances your timing, without vaccuum it has no effect and you have only mechanical and initial timing acting (ie. your intial of currently 5BTDC and whatever total your dizzy will bring in mechanically). have you checked out your dizzy to see that it's not 'locked' into full advance? (can't see how it is if you can 'see' 5d BTDC)sounds like you have as you say two much advance for lower rpm use which would correspond to when a weight/spring setup would not yet have full mechanical coming on.....any chance they locked it in at max timing with no mechanical/spring/weight advance?? The norm for low rpm/load pinging on a sbc would be someone with a two large vaccuum can. let us know what you find, have you taken in a timing curve on the engine? ie. rpm/timing gun so you KNOW what the curve is? many assume curves are fine and often they are too large and detonating which they don't always notice or too small and they're missing BIG power.....best IMO to find out what you have first or it's hard to know what else you're affecting,

quote: Originally posted by Morgan: The gear ratio is stamped on the edge of the ring gear as X:Y x and y being the number of teeth on the ring gear and pinion gear, just divide. You can't tell from the outside what the ratio is(Other than guesstimate by counting revolutions). No guesstimation involved, it's an easy fact to obtain exactly. Checked out many diff's in yards, can't imagine pulling them all and yanking rear cover just to know gear ratio. I only pull rear covers to check diff condition. Here's an old archive of mine on checking/ascertaining the ratio: Take a buddy, and just turn it to find out. should be able to by rpm's but the tried and true is...to hoist one rear tire in the air (need two people) and mark the driveshaft and tire relative to some position, turn the tire exactly 10 times while the driveshaft rotations are counted, you'll get a whole number and a fraction (like 17 3/4 driveshaft turns per 10 halfshaft turns) double this divide by 10 and it's your diff ratio....so 17 3/4 doubles to 35 (as far as you need to go but some get picky) so /10 and it's 3.5 ie. 3.54.... whammo its your diff ratio. 17.5 then a 3.54 18.5 then a 3.7 19.5 then a 3.9 Each difference is at least a whole number (except 3.36->3.54, but still 16 or 17?) so this always works for us. Don't forget to grab the speedo gear out of the tranny (one 10mm bolt), even though you don't need it (w/ your 700R4), if you ever sell it it'll help out a datsun dude. Others reccomend removing the rear cover plate and reading the ring gear, but the diffs I look at are still in the cars so... may variations all accomplish the same thing, this one's stuck with me and works easily IME (you can go 20 tire revolutions and simplify the already straight forward math if you like but I"d guess the longer you take the greater the chance is one of you falls asleep and loses count;^)