Modern Motorsports Ltd

Got any pics of your setup online? I'd like to see the 'entry' to your radiator frontal area as well;-) Here's a URL to a v. good (like griffin, their norm is Nascar quality/issue) water pump supplier, stewart components. I feel their pump is a large part of my easy running of 87 octane in my 9.4:1 setup along w/ the aluminum heads. http://www.stewartcomponents.com/chevyS2.htm now for my 'weigh-in': Here's my stats from a weigh-in at the Shasta meet this summer with certified scales and numerous witnesses, with my car complete with stock interior but no spare (no good to my 5 lug 13" brake/s/rims) and 7/8's fuel (~125 lbs)both with and without driver just prior to an autox event: viewed from top to bottom/left to right (scale techy enthused as many Z's shy away from scales) without driver: FL 693 FR 793 RL771 RR 659 Total weight: 2916 lbs Front: 1486 (51%) Rear: 1430 (49%) now w/ me (190lbs in the car, and rocked twice by scale technician as he was in disbelief at %'s and got out his notepad:-) 758 792 850 702 total: 3102 Front: 1550 lbs 50.0% Rear: 1552 lbs 50.0% Any spare or gear at all gives it a rear weight bias:-) Prior to moving my battery and swapping from iron heads it was still only 51/49 so a budget effort can still make for fine handling.

If I had a qjet tuner next door at a decent price or free I'd be back to one in a flash. V. good tuners often use them on street and strip cars up to 500hp and above. I just got tired of trying to get all tuning aspects nailed down. Doug Roe offers the best book IMO on them offered by HP books FWIW. Nothing hard about rebuilding them etc, they just offer many more variances you can tune in. For the less patient DIY'r that needs some economy too I like the 600cfm carters on a non-wild motor. good luck PS let him know I have a matching #'s '68 camaro/vette qjet if he needs one:-)

Just got this v. interesting IMO concept from a DIYEFI member. What's needed to play with GM ECU's I have to check out a lot further for that cost aspect.......pasted in: "First, consider using a hacked GM ECU with MAP. Now you need no "air meter" yet the ECU works as designed full time. Most IACS are removable - just re-plumb to accommodate the carb. Same with EGR etc. Ask Dr Bruce about re-programming GM units - there is a wealth available here. Now - depending on how far off the deep end you want to go, you may want to consider leaving the main/power jet circuits and carb active - just plugging off the idle and transition, removing accelerator pump and choke and doing a good clean. One major advantage of carbs over FI is that at near WOT the fuel flow thru the venturi can add a lot of charge cooling. Vizard reports that with high power engines with good carburation, he has seen frost form on the intake manifold during dyno runs. But they stink at low mid throttle. So use the GM ECU to control some smaller injectors, then jet the main, power lean and stage the fuel into the system at higher loads. Most ECU's run open loop anyway at high load. Just keep trimming back the extra richness from the ECU and adding it back by up jetting the carbs. A little more fangle - but all the benefits of a cheap, complete - including EGO and anti-knock spark, easily hacked and tunable ECU with a lot of DIY support. Also the size of the injectors could be reduced to 19 lbs or so - very standard small block size - translate cheap and available - giving much finer control of the low mid range. As the venturi fuel comes in, the ECU Al Bundies it - Don't Know - Don't care - and trims accordingly. A few iterations to get the best combined effect - and you are there. The jetting doesn't have to be perfect - just good - the ECU trims out the rest. The Victor Jr has excellent F/A distribution in the upper power/load/rpm range and the Gm ECU gives you all the EFI low mid torque without sacrifice of the top. If frost on the manifold at full throttle appeals to you - it's worth contemplating. "

Just got a good idea from a friend on the idle/cold idle issue. I could do this with one (or two if needed) plumbed into a carb spacer to air cleaner interface (I have a 'shalow' Vic. Jr. I was going to 'space' up) " On your idle speed issue. Why not just use an OEM Datsun Air Flow Regulator? You know, that funky little thingy that sits on top of the OE EFI intakes that has a BOSCH style connector on it and has 2 hoses? One hose goes before the throttle valve and the other goes tot he intake just after it. This device allows a little air to bypass the throttle valve when the engine is cold to keep the RPM high enough to overcome all the cold friction, cold viscous oil, etc. It has 12 volts supplied to it while the engine is running. With 12 volts applied it will close off the little passage way in it over time, typically 5-10 minutes. This way you don't have to use a fast idle cam to get the RPM up for engine warm up. Just a thought any how. If you use the choke parts on a carb body, just remove the choke butterfly and only use the fast idle cam and program your EFI, as you mentioned, to give the added cold enrichment."

PSS I'm going to THE dudes for suspension this Sat. am hopefully to have him look at what would be involved to convert my car to front steer and improve bump steer. Custom suspension/total design is their business and he has the goods to take your suspension right thru travel in his shop and read out it's characteristic changes with travel etc. He was fully intune with all requirements and is a roadracer himself so would have a fine approach. If I understood correctly he said Ackerman is only an affect if your steering knuckle is offset in on my rear setup. If it's parallel with car geometry then they can flip 180, otherwise they have to do their customizing. He'd use a 280z rack and just tack up mounts and test out till it's in the dead right spot and then fully weld among other parts:-) Makes me feel it's better spent than EFI mod right now (assuming all height clearance can't be gained by fully tweaking oilpan, we'll check that first). EFI still in full planning though:-)

So how best would one deal with setting up their idle if you use an airdoor/converted carb? Set your fuel maps for appropriate rpm's as per normal and it'll add fuel according to rpm? I'm not up on mapping and haven't had time to read about this aspect of the injection so if it's too redundant just say so. But I'm wondering how one would setup the TPS switch if your idle adjustments might alter it's initial location slighty? (ie. is idle EFI setup independent of TPS switch?) Not sure how I'd control cold choke other than using a choke on the airdoor/carb and then programming into the ECU appropriate maps for 'coolant temps' and then it would fuel it accordingly assuming I timed a choke operation in phase with coolant temps? Opinions on what carbs would be best for converting? I have numerous Qjets, all 750's, no 850's. (sounds like fun just to cut up an older/spare carb even if it gets trashed;^) As well I have two Holley 1850's (600cfm). I'm strongly against altering my current 600cfm edelbrock d/2 it's resale value although I like it's electronic choke that could carry over. So it's really the bottom plate of the carb that's fully linkage controlled that I need to keep and top airhorn somewhat for entry 'smoothing' as well as some feature for cold air idle/bypass method...right? back to studying PSS I'm going to THE dudes for suspension this Sat. am hopefully to have him look at what would be involved to convert my car to front steer and improve bump steer. Custom suspension/total design is their business and he has the goods to take your suspension right thru travel in his shop and read out it's characteristic changes with travel etc. He was fully intune with all requirements and is a roadracer himself so would have a fine approach. If I understood correctly he said Ackerman is only an affect if your steering knuckle is offset in on my rear setup. If it's parallel with car geometry then they can flip 180, otherwise they have to do their customizing. He'd use a 280z rack and just tack up mounts and test out till it's in the dead right spot and then fully weld among other parts:-) Makes me feel it's better spent than EFI mod right now (assuming all height clearance can't be gained by fully tweaking oilpan, we'll check that first). EFI still in full planning though:-) What are good places'URL's to find used/cheap SVO injectors?

quote: Originally posted by clint78z: Try the pink insulation in the antenna panel might cut exhaust droning more and that carpet underlay under the carpet . The pink stuff?? interesting thought, I've been wondering what I could put in their that wouldn't hang onto moisture (not sure if anything will do that) but more importantly could be removed if need be for some future work. FWIW, I used two materials in the front half of my car so far with v. good results. I used to have a lot of tranny tunnel heat etc, ebrake would get quite hot (hard to touch!) etc and legs would get toasty. I first used 'Proform' heat insulation (6"x24" strips) which was v. adhesive and seamed like a thin metal layer (ie. v. heavy tinfoil) with the usual peel/stick glue layer on it. Put one layer of this down on all surfaces from rear of seats to 12" up the firewall. Then one layer of their 'sound' pads (not sheets, figured I'd never agree on how to cut it, so bought 12" squares) which are black/rubber tiles w/ peel/stick adhesive. Made a huge difference, I've yet to get to doing the back of my car though. Heat and sound are cut down tremendously and main noise now is from exhaust droning in rear and coming thru hatch IMO. In hindsight I'd of put two layers of heat stuff up front it was so effective that w/2 I'd guess there would be no noticeable heat entry. I know Proform was quite a bit cheaper than Dynamat, I spent under $120US so far at jobber pricing(don't recall dynamat pricing but it was high for me).

Yes, theirs a variation or two on that if you want more or less LED"s as well. You could also spare that construction and wire in a supply voltage and use a cheap voltage metre and just read it's reading as needed without having to construct anything. Once tuned IMO it shouldnt' be needed 'daily' etc so I don't see the need (maybe others will disagree, a good way to point to 'broken' parts though) for a permanent fixture. FWIW, I have seen this wired to OE Z voltage guages in the dash:-) two OE guages in dash setup one above another as one for each bank of his V8, not sure if their were many other details to it or not.

http://www.centuryperformance.com/heatwraps.htm is the URL, I'll paste in a little info to give their general idea "Background Information: In the past, almost all NASCAR and other racing engine builders used the header wraps for the added power gains. But, after having to replace the headers after each race due to the wrap being about the only thing holding the header together, they do not promote the practice any longer! They now utilize the thermal coatings that are chemically and electrically applied to the headers. Those include Airborn, Jet Hot, HTC, and others. Imagine having to replace a $1200.00 plus set of headers after each race weekend! Few but the most financially well-off race teams can afford to do this. But, it is also in the downtime for remaking a custom set of headers. Most custom header makers do not have copies readily available. I believe that the wraps are good to protect various items from heat, but not to hold the heat in the header. For example: you can use the wrapping for the protection of fuel and oil lines, wiring, etc. Cool air needs to be around the header, and insulating it with a wrap to hold exhaust heat in makes the header material temperatures near molten. When you wrap the header you trap the heat in the header, but also in the material that needs to breathe to dissipate heat for it's own survival."

Here's a chart to convert all measurements to the same pressure head: http://www.centuryperformance.com/afrconversion.htm

I've driven on a few lately including firehawk sz50's, intermediates, AVS-S1's, and some other goodrich as well as the Advan (A032R's). I just got the AVS-S1's and am quite dissapointed, poor traction and very 'squealy' on limits. I loved the SZ50's but thought I could get a better/equivalent tire cheaper (tirerack had S1's on sale).Well I couldn't.SZ50's were a 'sleeper' tire that wouldn't break free when others I've run have and given the attention getting squeal (I like keeping it down/sleeper) SZ50 still gets my vote bigtime for stickiness and it has an unreal traction in the wet that I also loved here in BC. Friends in WA use them rearround (barring snow) as well as their 'wet' race tires on their race-cars. The one other higher $ one is the S02 pole position but way too much $ for me. I'm trying to sell my S1's now and will get the SZ50's again (just improved for better treadlife). How much driving do you do? Tires only stay sticky so long so no point having them last more than 2 or 3 yrs IMO. I don't mind budgeting a set /2yrs, now that I have dedicated track set (A032R's) it shouldn't be a problem. good luck and let us know what you like, FWIW, tires with grooves that go straight to their edge (like SZ50) have the effect of your front tires pumping the water sideways and reducing water your fronts have to run through, I've followed others on puddled highways where they got 'pulled' sideways thru puddles and my much lighter ZX just went straight thru, that really convinced me as well as a roadracing day in the wet at SIR:-) http://www.tirerack.com/tires/firestone/fs_sz50_ep.jsp http://www.tirerack.com/tires/images/firestone/fs_firehawk_sz50_ep.jpg Although I'm leary of their new UTOQ of 340 AA A, when their old 'sticky' one was 220AA. Not sure if one of rating (all relative I know) of 340 really be that sticky although if it is that would kick ass. I've yet to find a tread above 250 that I felt was 'sticky'. The non'EP' SZ50 does lose it's stickiness/wet traction about midlife/at 40% remaining or so many of us unaminously decided, perhaps the 'UNI-T' changed that in 'EP' (extended play:-)

I'm running the 6089 edelbrock performer RPM 64cc heads as is EXCEPT I severely fatigued the OE springs (they're not v. good) so swapped in some Comp Camp springs more suited to the roller I'm now running. FWIW I had them flow tested against a set of 2.05/1.60 Air Flow Research street heads with minor porting that I had and they were virtually the same (so sold off the AFR's as several chamber construction issues of AFR's weren't favoured by local whizbang builder I was getting some info from).

After changing rockers/setups a number of times now I've been told and become a believer in 'hot' adjustments on hydraulic cams as the ONLY way to get it dead nuts right. Cold adjustments can get it v. close (w/ odometers even more so, but hot is done a lot faster by myself) but I've still found upon doing my HOT adjustment some are slightly too tight and some too soft. You don't want any too tight (bent pushrod) and if they're all the same it's smooth=>balance=>power. I go 1/2 turn for summer/racing and 5/8-3/4 for winter/street. Below URL will clear it up. Find an old valvecover and cut out the top so you can access your adjustment nuts. warm up the motor, remove one valve cover (have towels handy, things are HOT). Install 'open' valvecover, start up engine. Have your adjustment tool ready (proper tool with both allen and open wrench expedites this) and slack off on one lifter till you hear an audible clicking, may already be clicking and only get louder or take a turn or two to get it 'clicking'. Once clicking tighten slow till noise just ends (fairly audible) and go your 1/2-3/4 etc. I go 3/8's with wrench only and then last 1/8 with wrench and allen (had snugged up allen key after 3/8") to v. positively lock the adjustment. Below will clarify it more. Here's a fine URL for techinfo http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.htm

quote: Originally posted by pparaska: You got it, a welding supply company. See if you can get some lugs that fit it, as alot of the automotive stores won't have lugs that big. The welding supply place I went to only had Aluminum lugs. Anybody have a source for 1/0 or 2/0 gage crimp/solder copper lugs, for 5/16" or 3/8" studs? Same electrical/welding supply shop had the solder on lugs (I'd highly recc'd them over crimp style, no corrosion with saturated solder) as well as an auto marine shop. FWIW I used OOO cable (3/O) and I'm sure 'two ought' is fine, I soldered the lugs on after fitting all lines (ground was v. short to batt right behind pass. seat in toolwell), ground and feed to Ford solenoid on firewall/fender area. Solder v. well to saturate the end, then I smeared dielectric silicone (won't corrode) on any exposed wire (from torch heat/stripping etc) and then wrapped well with ee tape so's I never have to wonder if it's anything to do with those wires if my car won't start. My starter is also wrapped with a heat shield blanket retained by HUGE (very long) hose clamps (some 15" diameter or so, just loop a few times and works v. well for servicing). Only troubles I've had starting since remote solenoid was when battery reserve was dropping down d/2 a failing alternator. good luck I agree w/ Pete,IMO the guage2 cable they sell for longer lines is inferior. Even if it's alright at least after these changes you'll know what you don't have to check when it's not starting:-)

Replying to my own posts as we go here:-) Anyone know how different a 280Z front strut brake mounts etc are compared to a 280ZX strut? (I'd want to carry over my custom 13" setup). How's about transplanting a 280Z front endcompletely?! I know bearings are the same so could bolt my current 5 bolt setup etc on their....hmmmmmm, how am I supposed study now (in a comp. lab at school) Reinstall my swaybar etc....that system is already engineered etc, wonder how similar mounting/pickup points are.

quote: Originally posted by pparaska: Duh, I didn't think about that. You're right! Maybe a right hand drive 280ZX rack flipped over? Hmm. Seems a 280Z rack might be something to look into, since it's a front steer rack and plentiful. You'd have to compare the inner tie rod ball to inner tie rod ball distance on both to see if it would work. Custom might be in order here! On that note, why not just take the 280Z crossmember.....seems playing with frame mounts is easier than rack geometry.Doooh! And then I'd be v. similar to 'normal' Z engine bay/JTR configuration and could most likely take my steering 'rod' outside my drivers side headers! Rather than inside with custom header pulled away from block. Hmm, their's a v. good custom susp. shop 1.5 hrs away that I wish was closer by......I was about to measure up for headers etc but if I do need to severely modify Xmember setup to lower my engine (and the engine has to be lowered a fair bit for improved breathing!, this is a must) then the header mod should be integrated with it. Damn, been sucking in exhaust fumes with poor header/head match and wanted this done yesterday:-((( Ross (feel free to bid up my r200 4.11 on ebay:-) C I'll have to put the car up in the air and have a v. good/hard look to see how much more drop can be gained via more oilpan mods before I get so involved in Xmember but enjoying pondering it.....I'm pretty sure 1.5" is the max gain I"ll be able to lower my motor which isn't much extra but with an airdoor/EFI it could open up that area as well...$5k from Ed Mcmahon could solve this methinks:-)

quote: Originally posted by pparaska: The other thing to consider is bumpsteer. If you can bolt the steering knuckles on the struts so that they are turned around 180 degrees, and remount the rack at the same distance from the imaginary line connecting the ball joints, but in front instead of behind that line, the only variable you'd need to worry about would be the height of th e rack, which will govern the amount and type of bumpsteer. Making that adjustable once you get it close for welding on new brackets for the rack would be a great way to go. Well from memory the steering knuckles have a slight inward arc to them but if my pass. side one was reversed AND taken to drivers side the inward arc would be maintained. I have no idea where the control arm centreline relates to centreline of Xmember yet (ie. if wheel/control arm is centred about Xmember then ~steering rack spacing would be maintained) but visually from above would have to guess it's offset rearward ~2". If I did change to a front steer rack I wonder if the ZX rack is preferred as so many like a Must. II or mazda rack? Any others have engine height comparisons?

OK, got some measurements here: for engine height comparison: I have 5" from ground to bottom of my rails at the front of my car (figure they must be within 1/2" or b/t Z/ZX -14-3/8" from ground to ~ centre of crank bolt my crossmember has 2.5" rearward offset of the centreline of motor mount to centreline of xmember built in, overall 4-1/8" from centreline of xmember to rearward edge of Xmember (excluding steering mounts etc) front edge of mount receeds at least 2" (ie. only 1/2" max fwd of centreline) so going reverse w/ Xmember in quick look would gain (all relative to xmember frame mount centreline) 4-1/8" minus 1/2", 3-5/8" which is a helluva alot and would clear most any pan etc....hmm, certainly justifies further investigation....

Just got hit out of the blue from seeing another totally unrelated hybrid. My hoodclearance/oilpan clearance issue bugs me. On my 280ZX as I've mentioned my 'rear-steer' rack and shorter Xmember to firewall (-3") makes for quite a different install. What if I reversed my Xmember for front steer thus increasing rear room quite a bit with no steering rack/mounts in place (and possibly offset gain in Xmember centreline as well)?? New 'dragstrut' mounts (what are those called?) would have to be added to the new 'front' of the Xmember and steering link's somehow moved fwd/customized?? Figured someone may have thought of this or understand more of what's involved than I and be able to comment. I'm so busy doing school it's easy to type a q' and do some 'net surfing but hard to break time away into the garage for some 'real' study breaks.

OK, my initial goal sides learning a lot on what I can mix/match in planning was to see how I could create a multi port injection system for less than Edelbrock's $1925US system which isn't the best but is a good midrange system as I understand it. After looking at many websites and bargain hunting parts I have this list of all parts as new and I'm not less than the Edelbrock system and their's a lot more for me to match/coordinate/resolve. ECU and wiring harness $800 minimum (new) airdoor $500 Injectors $400 (SVO 36lb/hr brand new) fuel pump $267 (porsche 930, advised by SDS) fuel rails $100 (material and labour) intake/bungs etc $100 (have the intake, bungs and labour) This brings me to $2170 not including an O2 sensor/bung ($70 or so) and possibly a laptop of required. So if I find an ECU for 1/2 price I'm still at $1770 which for a $155 saving over edelbrock's setup isn't worth my time. And I felt fuel rail and injector estimates were conservative (I won't be doing that, I want injectors in the exact right location!). comments/corrections...poor estimate?? Found an SDS 4 banger unit brand new (fuel only) that SDS would make an 8 cyl. ECU/harness for $617US total (their list is $843) FWIW.

Wanting to hear opinions on how great or small benefits b/t huggers and 3/4 or full length headers can be. My motor will be a 400hp flywheel roller 350 once all tweaks are done (air in and air out). Huggers are the 'easy' route but many are discouraging me from this easy route and saying full length will be far superior......but they'll be a headache I think. Been told to get corvette full length and have them modified to fit my setup...I love the ease with which I change plugs/gaskets/oil etc etc and dont' want to sacrifice this too much... opinions/facts please, thanks

Hmm, what ideas have you got for changing the distribution? Got some detailed pics of engine bay on line? -where is your battery and what size/weight? What type of radiator do you have? What type/weight of wheels? Sounds like you've done a lot already for weight efforts. Aluminum heads? seen some GM BB alum. heads for $1500US complete on sale at Sallee GM

good info all... I really like this air door http://force-efi.com/parts.htm $525 including TPS and IAC, I'll keep scouting but I do like that... -I'll likely source injectors and any other more available parts local thru a v. good pricing connection...I"ll have to see if they don't have any contacts for any air-doors for this 'multi-port' (I was wrongly calling it tuned port) system I want.. -can anyone toss out a PN for a recc'd injector for me to get an idea on price? and any OE or 'common' company selling fuel rails that I might be able to pull this discount with (or any OEM rails good enough to adapt for my use?) -off the computer for the wknd and looking fwd to reading the replies on my return to the keyboard:-) ahh, found a page with some ECU/controllers pricing info..... http://force-efi.com/price.htm Haltech E6s looks good http://www.haltech.com/ looks like http://www.rancefi.com/ManifoldsforSale/Chevrolet.htm is similar to proflo kit but with DFI software, do you have to buy the calmap and cable, or can you make the cable and 'copy/borrow' the software? [This message has been edited by Ross C (edited September 15, 2000).]

quote: Originally posted by Owen: I'm not sure about this but you might want to check and see if the stock LT1 intake will fit with your heads. I know the LT1 is reverse cooled and I think they run coolant thru the TB. Sorry if I'm wrong. Owen Owen, I have 6089 (edel. 64cc rpm) heads so the older style bolt pattern bolted onto a '98 'vortec (ie. oldstyle basically) 350 shortblock rollerized etc. So need an intake that bolts to 'normal' oldstyle head pattern etc, I saw only a 'miniram II' at TPIS http://www.tpis.com/pg9-12.html for $900US, is this the one you're running fastfrog? Who has the 'superram' setup and/or pics of it? don't see it at TPIS thanks...

quote: Originally posted by pparaska: bubafett, Thanks for posting that I think it's pretty exciting that the motorsport headers are full length and 1-3/4". I guess I'm now wondering if they are equal length tubes, and how thick the head flange is. Well as far as equal length most headers purported to be that don't measure up to it when you actualy spec them out in person just FWIW (ie. one vendor may just be more honest and have same quality header and not say 'equal' length). While (if) the MA offerings are being measured can you tell us: - how close to the block/oilpan interface they come (ie. within 1/2" or 3" etc) -where the collector finished (ie. 5" rearward of engine/tranny interface) -do they come v. close to your motor mount (picture your motor mount sticking out 5 inches like mine on my ZX is), would it clear this? -I assume they drop straight down b/t motor mount and starter (symmetric are they ?)? -how far below your oilpan/block lip do they go at their 'shallowest' (then we'll know ground clearance regardless of our rideheights) Thanks! PSS a few asked about whether 1-3/4's were needed, not an absolute at all but since we don't have a set already (well mine need to upsized from 1-1/2) and you're spending money IMO it's best to go a touch large if anything on size as we're not challenged for bottom end torque by any means so larger tubes will only enhance upper end and move any exhaust restriction further down the line (ie. with 3" Y and 3" single it moves back to muffler) and further away your restriction is less effect it has....