Modern Motorsports Ltd

We're already working on that thanks Neil:) Pricey option we're working on reducing the cost of. The stub axle spline is different from the shaft spline......Weld failure is impossible if you understand the forces at play. The weld is essentially just a 'nut' like your lug nut.....if it stays tight the setup works.......force is very minimal on that weld as a result of our unique keying method and assembly process. Their are no balance issues with our setup's design, dirty CV boots are more serious.....

Just a reminder in case some weren't aware or our option as we've been selling these for a while now. We've got our R230 adaptors in stock, and they include the mandatory end stops, and we pair them with Moser axles (undisputed quality). All top quality CNC parts engineered in a package and very value priced! Adaptors are $265/pair, includes precision tig mating process, all hardware including stub nuts/etc and our top quality Moser Axles are $310/pair. Webshop package here: http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=57&PHPSESSID=d9cc31a11c1cd7991c940312fc1d8ec8 prior hybridz announcement with more info http:http:////hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&p=237499#237499

An update as I've been getting email inquiries on this......yes the undisputed to dog MOSER shafts are in our package available for $310US per pair. They've had all others, williams/strange/speedway in their shop/tested and MOSER still came out on top. Enjoy! http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=57&PHPSESSID=d9cc31a11c1cd7991c940312fc1d8ec8

I had a C4 rear, that and QA1's and AD struts have been thru here. You'd require a VERY properly stiffened chassis to run that setup properly. Nothing short of true race basically. Thanks for the compliments all and Kala Motorsport. We don't slam together quick offerings, or send out setups for customers to 'finish' etc......we do finished engineered packages to properly suit your Z. Parts designed to be strong enough without excess weight etc and balanced to meet your intended uses in combination with your other systems.

240Z2NV, Our apologies if you feel ignored. It's certainly not purposeful or typical of our practices. Please drop us a reminder email and we'll respond. We've never ignored customers, on occasion incoming email requests have grown beyond our capacity at that time to respond and some slip up the screen in our system and they're not as diligently replied to later as we'd like. This only happens as we're very actively working to meet our customers needs on the various nature of orders we have underway at the time, not due to entire lack of attention. Again, no intended ignorance whatsoever, we've been very actively fulfilling orders internationally for some time now with more than pleased customers and we'd enjoy adding you to that group. Please drop us a reminder email and we'll follow it up.

Data/leads on high end sales or even just ads for Z cars in whole or part........as per top post thanks.

The Toyo's have been quite well received amongst street/mild trackers the last few years as I understand it? I'm a big fan of the firestone/firehawk SZ50EP, it suits our climate very well.

Ditto! And don't have a heart attack when you hear a gunshot like 'boom/crack' when the rust bond pops!

With the hub and rotor assembly removed and the rotor side facing down (ie. hub front facing up), place the flat/thin end of a prybar underneath one lug stud head........this is in a slot between the hub and the rotor, pry down with great force.......should pop........pry on opposite side and progressively walk the hub upwards out of the tight rotor centre. Make sense? Easily done with just a prybar and a bit of effort. It used to be those rotor to hub bolts that would get me though prior to my impact Afterwards do clean up your hub OD to remove dirt/rust/scale etc. Good luck,

A fine solution IF your studs are fresh/good pieces and your spacers are made to fit your hubs hubcentric so they're snug/proper fit. Spacers must have centrebore and bolt pattern VERY concentric about the centre axis. We do these regularly/Nissan Quest studs are the easiest install/for longer studs and greater strength we'll bore out OEM hubs for ARP studs. Drop us a line if you have any questions or want a set of custom spacers done for yourself.

They're a VERY darty tire on uneven pavement, you can easily do a lane change (not kidding) if you're driving on rutted pavement. They're also very noisy/like a low flying aircraft........I kept looking for a plane at first.... Pros- great street/track treadlife and very progressive traction (ie. they don't snap loose with zero notice). A rather old tire design by now but suits some, I still have my set with majority of tread left.

Too bad the search function isn't working..........lots written on this. Nutshell: others shops doing customer buildups have had concerns prior to receiving the product. Once they've received the product, THEY PHONE me and want me to supply them with custom spacers for their needs. Engineered pieces done right. The bad stories come from either cheap spacers done wrong/typically generic...or from those that have only seen cheap units and not actually gone thru spacer function/the physics and mechanical constraints. When done properly specific to your ride they're great. I'm an engineer by profession and take such matters VERY seriously.....I actually got into this vendor arena as I didn't truly like any products available for myV8 Z ride/then researched and gradually did my own brakes/spacers etc and they're well proven now and built upon sound proven engineering principles. Any specific q's feel free to email me directly.

"Can you just swap the entire rotor and hub off the 84 onto the 240 spindle?Can you use the caliper off the 84 as well?has anyone out there tried it?" Are you staying with 4lug? If so then you want to use your OEM hubs on your car with appropriate rotor spacers. This is for the 4x4 vented front setup/very well proven/a great moderately priced brake upgrade option. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=48 "If not i need spacers,does anyone know who has these for cheap?" Not sure what's cheap to you. They're listed in our package above. We only do top quality keeping value in mind, for my own ride I'd only want a piece properly made with no runout/perfect parallelism that was also perfectly hubcentric and concentric when it bolted up to my hub. I like happy mechanical systems when I'm doing my meant2fly imitations. Drop me a private email if you have any specific package questions. [/url]

Here's the options for the front 4x4 setup, Modern Motorsports 4x4 Front Vented Package all 3 hubs pictured, all 3 hubs bolt onto your spindle but front offset can change as well as rear offset/thus specific rotor spacers for specific hubs These calipers are appropriate: 89-95 4WD Pickup 4/89-91 4Runner As for making your rear offset equal, I'd suggest making it maximum track width if you're going to change it all. Provides maximum return and fun! Push them out reasonably within your wheel wells/front and rear maximum's are typically a different overall offset as you'll discover. Good luck! Drop me a private email if you have specific questions on our products.

PSS I got around to working out the actual weight savings......ONE-HALF of the OEM Z31 units! Nice weight savings on unsprung and rotating weight!

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Great idea Wayne! Anyone with any contacts related please drop me a line. I've been gathering some internet ads/ebay ads as I find them but files still a bit slim!

No news yet on my car/shortly the insurance group will move to establish a value on my car. A couple Z buds have helped with their knowledge of a sale or their own appraisal (thanks!!). Anyone else with knowledge of ANY sale or advertisement for a nice Z car whole or in parts/stock or modified that was priced at ~8kUS and hopefully some well above please drop me a line. I really want to increase my basis for proving the value of my own stolen Z car. Thanks in advance!!

Quite plus good power basically.......on my 280ZX V8 I had 300rwtq and quiet highway but some drone at lower rpm's. I don't need a totally free flowing system, quiet is VERY important to me with a ringing I have in my ears from a drug treatment a few years back. I've heard some very nicely tweaked OEM like setups (mod'd fbodies/vettes and others) that were quiet/basically sledgehammer sleepers. The LT1intake site is down right now, I'll have to check back on it later. Some of the quick engine details are: - 406 stroker (New) carb to pan. brodix track 1 heads , port matched victor jr intake, Callies all steel internally balanced rotating assembly, (10.5:1) weiand water pump, small balancer, new pan, comp cam (110691), roller tip rockers, demond carb, msd billet distributor.... I'd drop the carb/perhaps intake/perhaps milder cam, EFI and enjoy.

OK, no word on my cars recover yet...... Anyhow, a friend's got a killer deal for me if I act on it. Basically was a wicked V8 327 Z car, with high revving lumpy 327....he tore it all apart a few years back now and built a killer 406/brodix heads etc yadda yadda. I'd love to build up his package (clean/painted rust free chassis/recaro's/LSD....etc) as my own BUT I REALLY want the OEM like mannerisms LT1 setups have......my edelbrock proflo EFI did NOT give that, blower roll around town I never got to tweaking and some other characteristics I wasn't overly fond of (it did serve me well, I'm getting PICKY now). So ideally I'd like an Lt1 or LS1 in a V8Z as I've said for a couple years now....but my bud's got this great 406 sbc I know I'd enjoy...what's around for excellent overall EFI systems that could orchestrate this motor? Something with smart air intake temperature locations...you know.... We'll have no problem selling this setup, but I need to eliminate myself from the equation first....2nd issue was how to make a nice'n'quiet exhaust system that I never did succeed at. I'll leave that one for now as it wasn't that long ago I raised that question (last summer). Thanks in advance!