Modern Motorsports Ltd

Fine swap Search the archives http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2394&highlight=lt1+header My dad just dynoed 300rwtq with a basically stock Lt1 with above headers.

Smoking! Great stuff Dan! Enjoy

I've heard ringing due to headers before, I'm quite positive this is not header related. Sounds coming from rear drone and not front. Nice thing with stainless piping though is you can wrap it if you want and it won't go brittle like aluminized can and has in some setups I've seen. My headers are reasonably beefy and coated, front end is quite quiet, letting me hear all the engine noise that I haven't for a while now.

Thanks for the thoughts Pete, what type of resonator are you thinking? Ones I have already are termed 'resonators' by some but I'm not sure if they do have packing in them or just a perforated tube...I'm not sure how you're thinking they should differ?....I had really wanted 6" OD resonators in their mid-car but at the rear driveshaft Ujoint it's too narrow for them to fit the dual mufflers side by side......now I'm curious if a single piece dual 2.5 in and 3" out muffler beneath my driveshaft would serve the purpose better.... Concurring with your advice, I've personally experienced, as have a few friends, mid-car resonators work great at curing resonance/drone (both on L6's and V8's)........these were all on cars that had Y pipes that merged fairly shortly and then on the single pipe the resonator was placed. Some of the resonators were not a very large case either, so I'm not clear why mine are not working to take out this resonance. (I'm positive a pair of 6" round mufflers midstream would work if they could fit them in). My dad has a large resonator (6" OD at least on his 3" single section alongside driveshaft with his OEM Lt1) works great, 300rwtq dynoed. PS, what do you think of a pair of magnaflow hi flow cats in place of the midstream bottles/mufflers...I have to think cats have to have a rather notable impact on resonance with their air obstruction...(ie. anything but straight flowthrough), cats would likely slip into present system without a lot of work

Well I'm not sure if I almost have dream exhaust or not.........KEY issue for me is being quiet with little to know resonance at cruise in the city of highway. (ringing in my ears due to major chemo years back, I like loud but it doesn't agree with me!). I just got my car back from 3.5 wks in the shop for various works, including all new exhaust. Specs as it is now (one pic in my hybridz gallery when it was partially done): Hooker shorty 1-5/8's headers, 2.5" collectors -dual 2.5 from collectors flex section on each side then 2.5" again with a 4" OD magnaflo bottle (14" long case)on each side this then comes into a single Y pipe right at rear U joint of driveshaft Y finishes to 3" which then passes over rear crossmember single 4" OD Vibrant 'bottle' as it comes down from rear crossmember towards rear muffler location 1st rear muffler they used was a magnaflo straight thru centre in/out , was too loud at cruise rpm and too barky on any throttle tip in (most would have loved it like this), idle was quieter, 2500+ rpm was reasonably quiet, up to 2500 it had a lot of resonance 2nd rear muffler is now a dynaflo super turbo 16" case, offset in, centre out, very quiet idle, and cruise above 2300rpm with nice on throttle sound mid level, not annoying but present, not a typical V8 sound at all and not high resonance, but different.......BUT THIS SYSTEM HAS A resonance from 1200-2200 rpm at light throttle/cruise that may even be louder than my original system. I'm quite frustrated as the shop was just supposed to take care of design/completiong of what was mandated to be an 'optimized for quiet' exhaust system. The original straight thru magnaflo could not be deemed optimized for quiet in any way and I've looked online/phoned many and really want the forum's inputs as I'm sure some have cured the chevy lower rpm cruise 'drone' previously. The work they've done on the exhaust is fine looking quality all mandrel stainless work. I'm hoping a muffler alone can zing out this resonance. Present system dynoed at 280 rwtq and 280rwhp with my mild mill so that's OK. I hear some lifter noises so some tuning could be done. IF I lose power with this rear muffler thats FINE, SOUND IS KEY and thus quiet desired so I still have my hearing another couple decades from now. I've read some old threads but nothing is jumping out as the solution. One exhaust guru out of province rang in with some word of mouth info that chevy V8 resonance had been dured in a couple nice setups with IPC turbo mufflers........which I've since chased down as Midas's own product line and they don't appear (in phoning anyhow) to come in any 3" configurations. He fealt the system was great, just a matter of trying different rear mufflers. ALL input welcome!! I would love for this to simply be a matter of finding the right muffler! All connections are slip fit, some with clamps (either end of bottles) so it's relatively easy to slip in other components to try before permanent slicing/dicing the SS piping etc. Dual mid-car mufflers would be great but not too much room, would cats cure this instead of the mid car bottles without killing major power? How much would an H pipe help and if so what size and where??????? (my new tranny cooler, radiator were installed, engine mounts revised, tranny mount revised, header wedges fitted/working OK). THANKS in advance! Ross (Frustrated! someones built this wheel before!) C

Yes, Congrats! More control is always good in that regard! Corners become a new experience with the slick LSD

OK, should get my car back early this week.........it's now got 4 muffling devices total! 2 magnaflo's on the dual 2.5's before my merger to 3".......and one Vibrant on the downslope from the crossmember rearward towards the muffler.........and then a 5x8x18" oval at the rear:) All straightthru with SS packing where they do have packing. Can't wait:))) I did hear it idle and it was a lot quieter which was great....they've got some tweaks left to do including the post mod dyno and dial-in. Been so long since I've done (or had done!) some seriuos work and this waiting is driving me nuts! Y merger is a gorgeous IMO piece, I'll see if I can post up some of the pics to my gallery later today.

" 1.The top of the line stuff was good and it is nice to see it the form of a complete kit, but it is expensive." Perhaps in comparision to typical Z stuff, but for it's quality it's typical or even cheap considering the volume/market and product. Price out buying an all new complete front brake setup for most any new decent car and you'll see what quality components run. "2.The Budget stuff was good, but incomplete. You must out-source many of the components. And in the end, you do end up with a high quality, functional system. But, it is a hodge-podge of a sort. And unlike the kit mentioned above it does not have an “Aesthetically pleasing appearance.†IMHO." Outsource many components? Two sets of calipers (one for front, and one for rear) for which all specs are provided, a few minutes by phone to parts yard or counter jockey's. I can supply the front calipers now, just not added into the website. Rears I'd supply as well but costs are prohibitive on full new at present and I've consumed all rebuildable stocks to date and turned them over as professional rebuilds to customers. I made a large effort to make available as many used sets as possible which greatly pleased those that did receive the all inclusive package. I don't see why it's a hodge podge of parts.......if they're balanced to work effectively together then that's what's important is it not? Their is ONLY one OEM setup on a 70-78 so anything else is a unique and non-OEM package. "3.That maybe, there is an opportunity to fill the in-between market, where I think a majority of us fall, with a complete, safe, durable, good performing, aesthetically pleasing, brake upgrade for a street Z car that is priced similarly to other systems available for the Z and other cars." Good to hear your thoughts, perhaps a silent majority now speaking out orperhaps not..... to date this has not been the thoughts of my customers. They know they can have very reliable 4x4 setups with fine function or the pillar of braking function and effectiveness with the Xtreme setup. That caliper availability is great at parts counters most anywhere. Aesthetically is judgemental as we know.......I know some that really like the big blocky 4 piston look of 4x4 or aftermarket etc, I automatically see the lighter 2 piston floaters as more pleasing as I'm intimately aware of some potential inherent advantages, particularly with PBR. Having said that I am always curious on potential new setups and pursueing R&D on potential parts candidates for these. What would you spend and what do you see as more pleasing? Assume an all new 4x4 setup including calipers and all caliper/rotor mounting hardware etc is about $475 IF you buy your calipers local and supply cores, otherwise add another ~$100 for cores. So for you all new/one box that's $575. What would you pay for a Baer Serious Street system as you note? That is a PBR 2 piston floater they use (not a 4 piston as you noted above), it would likely have to be paired with a 2 piece rotor for proper geometry so it won't be cheap as I refuse to use the entry level cheap low quality 2 pc rotors. A smaller OD 2 piece in 0.8" thick is going to be borderline too light for appropriate mass for heavy street use and moreso for hard track use. My 13x1.1's come in at the appropriate weight with immense swept area. Noone here is producing for a thousand+ units/year as Baer knowingly does. As well this is brakes and just because someone sells outer 2 pc. rotors at $50 or less doesn't mean they're suitable for our application. I could sell much cheaper quality & pricewise rotors with both my front and rear current setups but it's not within my conscience or professional judgement. I'm not picking on you in any way, just passing on my own opinion on such matters. "I guess my frustration at the high cost of putting modern brakes on an old car got the better of me. My apologies to any who were offended." No worries It took me 4 other types of brakes pads, a few rotor purchases, many years of having components not fulfill expectations before I bit the bullet and devised my own Xtreme brake system on my 280ZX. And now it's taken two prior exhaust sytems, over 7 yrs or so and lots of research for me to accept the system I wanted would cost a LOT but I'd get one that would meet my needs in all desires (sound/effective flow/ease of removal). Thankfully not all solutions have to be notably pricey but for ultimate desires the prices do rise for the quality parts and we do (as in Z community) have effective lower cost solutions for various systems which is quite a blessing. Sometimes I get babbling as it's taken a lot of reading/asking q's/spending money on things that didnt' work to learn the lessons I know and I'd prefer to see others expectations met the first time so like to inform as much as is reasonable. Many others here feel the same way and that's what makes this such an enjoyable place to be, I just wish I had more 'web' time in the last year to 'live' here a little more but lifes still progressing and I have my mandatory Z content Last night I was at a Kumho Super Challenge Dinner Gala that was quite enjoyable with engineers in town from Kumho to talk with as well as a display of a couple new treads they have underway that we enjoyed seeing and hearing about.

I use a typical synthetic 75/90 and then the GM LSD additive. I progressively add the additive until it no longer crabs on tight/slow turns. Work your fluids into your clutch plates with slow tight turns initially to get them all properly lubricated.....if you have crabbing (feels like it's locked) on corners then you need some more LSD additive. If you use David's suggested fluid you may not need the additive, see if it crabs at all on low speed corners and you'll know:) Enjoy!

Great for OEM powertrain or spirited street. At higher power levels, speeds and consequently far greater braking requirements than OEM the fluid and typical pads will show signs they're not happy as the smaller OD rotors heat up:wink: I easily proved that out in my track efforts at SIR a few years back with my OEM brakes. Stepped to my 13" Brembo rotors and started outbraking many Maintenance and good pads (KVR or similar) go a long ways to improving them for very little cost, but no substitute for the control and modulation you'll gain with a more effective system if you've done serious mods or drive with some high braking requirements (not single stops from high speed, I'm intending repeated..). Then again ducts would be very effective on an OEM 280ZX setup to take it yet a step further.

Can't be too desperate Several reference above to myself but I haven't heard from you and you don't post with an email for contact I can do it in 4lug or 5lug with same specs as my new front Xtreme setup on my webshop (link below, it's within 'Z Brakes' at present). Clear many 16" wheels. I've got some committments and will be off email for about one week but can reply to any inquiries after that. I typically deal with inquires via personal email as it's the easiest way to reach me and then details are unique to yourself and easy for me to track, as often others misinterpret some solutions unique and meant for others with needs they're not all aware of.

P.S for Ross: if you uncork that V8 with a single 3" pipe instead a a 2.5", you will pick up half a second easily. I had a single 2.5" when I originally built the car and found a lot of top end with the 3", FWIW. RC: Well old exhaust was so poorly done/restrictive it'll be hard to have a realistic 2.5 vs. 3" comparision. They're remounting my engine (lower for improved breathing) and several other mods, new mufflers are in as well:) I can hardly wait to get it back, their install/build methods will leave me with a v. secure leakfree/troublefree system and noise should be a lot quieter:) It was your own dual cats that inspired my mid car dual bottle/muffler idea, thanks! Pre mod dyno indicated 246 rwhp/256 rwtq, and I'm expecting at least 50-60 more from the mods. Will have to be quite careful afterwards to recalibrate my driving style.

"Ross, How much for the brake setup (5-lug) you have in that picture? Funny, those hats are exactly what I was picturing and (attempting anyways) what I was trying to draw in that diagram for you. That looks like what I am needing for a brake setup. Thanks for the Willwoods vrs PBRs info. I never thought about OEM type longevity and that is something I would want since this is a street car first and occasional trackday car second." You're welcome, nice feature is whether street or track their is NO drawback to the setup (ie. no cons for street use and none for track use....pads can be swapped in 10 minutes including jacking up your car if you're a diehard pad swapper:) Setup will be $1200US, this includes the full front package with DOT (yes, DOT! , same quality as recent DOT rear lines!) stainless custom braided lines, PBR calipers, Xtreme 13" HD, balanced/stress relieved rotors etc, and all other bits except brake pads. The pads are then chosen to suit your needs. Custom anodizing (hats) /powdercoating (calipers, and yes even rotor portions for Xtreme show entries). Oh, and while at your website I noticed you have some sweet Koni's availabe. Qustion: Will the 280Z strut tubes needed for these inserts drop right into a 240Z or is there some modifications required to make them work? Also, if I lower my car, say 1.5" from stock, would I want to add spacers for these inserts (as described on your website - perhaps you intend this to be for people who don't quite section the housing enough) or section the strut housing? I'm sure a search of the forum would yield the 280Z/240Z rear & front strut tube interchangeability. I've heard 280 control arms are slightly longer from one customer.Those race inserts you're querying on are specific race inserts, even sectioned struts still require the inserts to be properly spaced as you only want to section your strut tube so much or you've got 1" clearance at your rockers (ie. if strut tube is 18" long and insert body is 12" you won't section out 6" of strut tube..., you'd take out 1.5" for example and then space 4.5" beneath your insert for a proper compression fitment under the gland nut) I'm not surfing so regularly so please do email me directly for personal responses:) (this used to be my regular chat/hangout but not much time for the surfing thing lately)

Shops are spot on, you'd actually lose torque most likely by altering backpressure so notably. If an NA L28 then 2.5" back from lowermost point of OEM manifold to a dynomax muffler works great, add a resonator if you want it quiet. If a turbo you may want more than 2.5" but others can chime in. 2.5" single supported lots of power with my V8.....if you like noise fine, but many allow it to confuse their power 'spidey sense' , many a thundering domestic, beedroning-deafening import has routinely beat me in at noise levels...but that's one contest I want to lose every time frankly. Every hop in a truly quiet but quick car? Helps adjust your spidey sense NAL28E exhaust manifolds are very well designed and you may lose power going to that header FWIW, tuned length runners as I recall on the OEM piece. L28 responses to headers are not comparable to typical SBC header responses...(typical chevy OEM exhaust manifolds are NOT good, Nissan ones are fine in typical use.) HTH

yes it is great in some uses, I find it too soft for exhaust sealing when you have a questionable surface (ie. you need the silicone to remain in place under some pressure). Between nice flat matched surfaces most all seem to work well. I'd suggest building up the inside of your 2100's to match the D port better. Leave the header port slightly oversize but if you build it up and then file/machine flat you'll have a much improved sealing surface. I fought sealing issues for years on my setup and hope to now avoid it entirely. My father had his 2100's welded up internally to better match up to his Lt1 D port heads......otherwise they'd leak excessivly at that lacking mismatch on the bottom of the ports. HTH

hesitation could also be your timing at idle......I've found my setups have required 14/15 degrees static at idle minimum.....but make sure you're not exceeding reasonably total timing......I fiddled lots with springs/weights/tweaks to get near what I wanted and finally went EFI to nail a truly desirably timing curve....but my hesitation's have been slightly fuel and mostly timing in my past (with sbc's). and guys giving you great advice as usual.......if a mechanic/shop isn't on board/in favour/ of doing mods/tuning the right way it's not worth convincing them.......they'll never stand behind a product you convince them of that they're not on board with. Can take time to find the good guys but well worth it. My cars in right now for my long awaited dream exhaust (to me anyhow!), new rad, new tranny cooler and numerous other tweaks as I haven't had time to work on my car in months. The new exhaust/headers I've wanted for a number of years actually. (Hooker 2100 coated, dual 2.5's with largest mufflers that'll fit in tranny tunnel, then an artful 2.5-> 3 Y custom made transition to largest muffler that'll fit in the rear......all stainless and mufflers most likely to be dynaflow, quiet (better be!, very important to me) and fine flowing. FWIW, this will be my 3rd V8 exhaust........both prior's were quite poor from years back when I got snookered, this one is to be my final, fingers crossed it meets all needs (seals great and quiet! flow should be easily accomplished).

Well what thickness would you like them to be and would that suit most? That's what's deterred me mostly, that and the install is a little more involved than a typical bolt on (mine is a one piece design ) I've got a complete design shelved for some time but if each set is custom done to specific thickness it's pricier.....and if they're all done to same thickness then I'd hope that offset as is would work for users. I want to avoid customers 'stacking' various spacers and if the first piece isn't the specific thickness then this would occur. Typically my 5lug customers often run different spec wheels up front and rear such that the a single offset would not suit them. Perhaps I'm out to lunch and their are enough wheel combo's to suit a single thickness (or two options) adaptor. Opinions/thoughs/ideers always welcome.

"Thanks Ross, I saw the adapters you make and just assumed (sorry) that you only made those specific ones" No worries I never assume folks read my complete website but I am truly into making new items. This is a hobby for me and is not keeping the roof over my head. I really like working out new ways to skin the cat and improve upon existing solutions. That's why you don't see my regularly posting as I'm working on R&D projects underway.....280ZX rear VERY adjustable integral coilover setups (NOT Illuminas), and always new brake setups which I'm very passionate about. A LOT calculated before parts are even made for my custom brake setups, piston size/fixed/floating/pad size/rotor size/rotor diam/MC bias (if any)/line pressure/intended cars speeds/scrubbing speed/weight etc.....I just cautioned a hybridz bud that was planning same size caliper front and rear with single MC (ie. no bias in MC) as that will NOT work optimally at all even with an adj. bias valve...(I've been avoiding delving into the 'cheap big brakes' thread to date, I'd like to see more considerations on component selection being discussed for non brake gurus...)but I'm babbling now, sorry. MML 'About Us' I have dealt with so many venders that just make what they make and if what you need is different, they don't want to take the time to deal with it (less profit/more hassle than production pieces) or what they charge is prohibitively expensive. That is why I searched around for a place that specializes in custom wheel adapters BUT... since you can provide what I need for a reasonable price I will most definately go with your parts (gotta support our Z vendors). >>Thanks:) Oh, and I was not the customer you talked to recently with a similiar idea, I just thought of doing it this way yesterday. >> That's two thinking of it at present as well then I'd really like to see some slick BMW designed wheels on a Z car as well. Ross, if I go with the 300Z hub on a 240Z spindle the brake disk ends up being WAY off. Can you make a hat that bolts to a 300Z spindle that I can bolt a 12" Willwod brake disk to? Something like this (you will have to copy and past the link): http://www.geocities.com/gprix1/240Z/BrakeHat.jpg http://www.baer.com/Products/BrakeSystems/FrontSystems.aspx first 5 systems they offer for performance packages are all PBR calipers. No knock intended on wilwood as their higher end lines seem to fulfill their intended race function, but various vendors of mine and several others in the custom business I've communicated with do not back wilwood for street or track setups. If racers are rebuilding calipers/replacing seals on stockcar type calipers at 500 miles or so that'd be every couple weeks for myself as I drive my car a lot and truly work towards longevity AND performance in all my own mods on my car as well as MML products. PBR's more than proven with baer and DOT history, as well as on my own car that I'm extremely pleased, I've only bled my brakes for maintenance in some 4 or more years now including tracke events etc and year round daily driving. I've had one customer leave a new wilwood Z front and rear setup in storage after some experiences he passed on to me and he's since chosen my setups. Each his own, just my .02c based on my background and feedback I've received. When respected vendors and tuners (I don't see many wilwood kits for late model imports, I'll see a half dozen others for subaru's etc) aren't fond of the line, I combined it with my own experiences, Z owners feedback of many setus out their, and chose to stay with PBR or other DOT like offerings OR higher grade calipers (ie. I understand SLII's, SLIII"s are far greater than base SL's). I can and will always offer to make items for those knowing what they require or already posessing the combo they'd like married together. But that's not a setup I'll be ordering in for my own future promotion. I've got my own 13x1.1 rotors (all HD, balanced and stress relieved) which are mass balanced to meet Z braking heat sink needs and I even tailor some even more uniquely to different weights to match some truly Xcessive braking needs! Last scale I checked had my 13" HD rotors weighing less than 4x4 vented rotors and still fulfilling my design heat sink criteria:) Lightweight wilwoods at 1.25" thickness have thin outer walls as auxiliary pointed out in a prior thread as the rotor mass present is placed across the great width of 1.25" so same weight in that rotor spec is not as effective as within a 0.8" thick rotor with more mass concentrated within the firepath. And some stouter HD 1.25" thick 12.2's are notably heavier than a Z requires. A few weeks ago I did a custom set of hats to allow the user to have several rotor options in case his car's high speed roadracing (2200lb/500hp) efforts tone down so he can step to a lighter rotor at that time (or to suit higher desired temps/different pad combo). And prior to that some for 6 piston Alcon's with 13.5's on a full race 4th gen camaro, so I do enjoy playing with other products. (that car needs heavy rotors!) Babbling again........time for some rest:) I've been intending to put a technical approach writeup on my web to cover some pros/cons fixed/floating, rotor spec's etc but it all takes time and R&D calls me stronger than webwork. PS I have been working on some tweaks to help reduce my 13" Xtreme setups price to make it available to a broader group but it is the ultimate IMHO for street/track or combined for both performance and longevity, not always an available combo PSS here's a summary PBR put out on their innovative patented 'pad guided' caliper systems PBR's slimline aluminium brake calipers combine lightweight, low drag design with excellent aesthetics to improve the braking performance and look of almost any vehicle on the road. The benefits of PBR's slimline calipers are many: Weight saving of around 30% (typically understated, a bare PBR is less than 1 lb) High torque output Uniform contact pressure Minimum dynamic caliper drag Lighter brakes contribute to a lighter overall vehicle enabling better road holding Less wear & tear on high stress parts Shock absorbers / tires Aesthetically pleasing appearance With opportunities for enhanced styling effects Proven thermal performance enhanced by substantial cooling fins Here's my PBR 5lug setup that's in limited circulation at present (yet to fully writeup for webshop) http://www.modern-motorsports.com/miscpics/xtreme/Xtreme5lugZ2.jpg' alt='Xtreme5lugZ2.jpg'> Gprix1....don't let the long story above lead you to avoid asking me more q's...my typical responses are shorter

It certainly takes a bit of elbow grease but no rocket science at all. grind a relief on opposite sides of the companion flange large nut where it's 'pinched', use large prybar/socket/impact gun etc for removal (brace stub axle wheel studs for a strong reaction force)....beg/borrow a slide hammer from your local friend/auto shop to remove stub axle and it's apart.....been done by many on this board. It'd take me 1/2 hour per side max. now if I already had halfshafts and rear brakes removed.

Yes, when you switch to using the 5lug hubs a new brake setup must be included as well as the rotor offset AND rotor bolt pattern have changed. I do 4x4 vented 5lug setups as well as my more recent 13" Xtreme fronts in 4 or 5lug I haven't yet gotten to posting on my webshop (but will be up soon!). Some brake options

"I just got an email back from them for the adapters and they are $65 a piece made to your spec's." FWIW, I routinely do custom wheel adaptors, some done this week. Top quality, hubcentric etc...price depends on thickness but for 1" or less they're $50 each typically for custom units. "I was considering a Corvette front suspension to go with my '84 'Vette rear but then, it is just looking like too much, so I starting thinking of a more conservative approach and thought of just keeping the 240Z front suspension (with big brakes and coil-overs) but going to a 5-lug 4.5" pattern using 300Z hubs and then using a 4.5 to 4.75 adapter from http://www.wheeladapter.com in order be able use a GM wheel up front to match the rears. Does this sound feasable?" Sure, I proposed just such a solution to a potential customer within the last couple weeks doing a curiously similar project. Easily done, although I'd suggest you may have a simpler purchasing experience and perhaps even save some dough with quicker shipping from myself:) "The adapter would then also act as spacer and can be made in various thickness' and even hub-centric to the wheel being used. Apparently, just the 300Z hubs alone widen things about 1" on each side plus the adapter would add another inch minimum" Bolt on adaptors we can do as thin as 3/4" if required. (yes, requires shaving OEM wheel studs typically but a great option for those requiring that thickness). Feel free to drop me a line for the opportunity to discuss your project if you'd like. sales@modern-motorsports.com

Shorter Z inserts have been available and shipping, I'm just not good at updating my webshop with working on emails/orders/R&D the webshop falls a bit behind on updates. Inserts that work with sectioning are same price as the other same brand units (ie. $75 or $130 depending on Tokico type). Koni race inserts I don't have pricing handy but email me if interested. Just email me to take care of that transaction. Please email me personally for q's on my items, I can't check in here regularly so may not get to your request at all or as quickly as I would if you email me. Thanks,

As mentioned above, the mustache bar bushings are the same between the kits. The steering rack'n'pinion do change from 240 to 280Z kits. I just went thru this with a customer that bought a240Z master kit from myself a while back, and now he's planning an R200 swap. Made no difference on his related bushings.