Modern Motorsports Ltd

Depending on your budget and intended buildup you could go with a quaife LSD setup (most preferred, then clutch then viscous for road track effectiveness/direct feedback). Quaife's can be had for R200's, a package on my site for full build that has worked great for those that have chosen it to date. As well you can use 280ZXT 6 bolt CV's or 300ZX Z31 4 bolt CV's with adaptors I offer, one bulletproof rear setup once done and all very easy install. Just options. For core parts I've always reccomended Roger at http://www.zbarn.com, mention myself when inquiring, never hurts to remind vendors it's a small world. Hope that helps.

Ed, I'd strongly suggest you consider the KVR carbon fiber street pads I distribute. You can search the site, they should pop up a few times. All customers have been very happy with them. They're very rotor friendly always but have fine friction that very pleasantly just increases linearly as they get heated beyond typical which is very enjoyable in events/autox/panic stops etc. For street/occasional track etc I haven't been able to find any flaws.......if OEM stuff was more like them you'd see far fewer rotor/pad replacements required. Very odd to get the friction you want without rotor wear/decreased longevity I know, but it's true. I ran them for some 4 or 5 yrs prior to MML and it was one of my first distributorships I picked up. I'd previously tried many semi metallic pads and got decent braking but horrible rotor life with early warpage. Paired with fine rotors the KVR combo will last you a long time and provides great peace of mind. Pads for your intended fronts are $40US, I'm not clear what rears you have (OEM?). Just an option, email me direct or try the webshop if you like.

Chase good buddy! That would be great! Your email's changed, I looked up your name in online phonebook/left some phone messages at the similar names that might rehook us up! Drop me an email please, some fun details to sort (Just discovered this thread, or I'd have jumped in earlier!) The Z31 CV stub axles have a few traits stouter than the 280ZXT, shaft diameter, bolt pattern just offhand. Although neither has been a point of weakness I'm aware of. I'd just take whatever decent shape axle set was available to me between 280ZXT and Z31 4 bolt CV's. A fine source for parts that has treated all my referred customers very well is the Z Barn http://www.zbarn.com/ Roger and I have no affiliation but when I send a customer referred to him he sets them up with the right parts/no questions/every time and quality of his used parts has always been good in my experiences to date (customers send me many stub axle and companion flange cores they buy from Roger). Feel free to mention my name to him as some day I'll need some parts from him I'm sure, and it's a small world so may as well keep it friendly! Reason those Z31 CV 4 bolt pieces looked too long for a 280ZX is they are! 280ZX rear diff to hub geometry is different from Z's........280ZX's use a notably longer companion flange than Z's. In this length difference is were I incorporate the adaptor thickness appropriately for the 280ZXt to Z adaptors as well as the Z31 units. Hope that helps.

Hmmmmm, I don't think that was around when they did the growth chart in Ferris Bueller's Day Off

Richard very cool, I've NEVER considered that caliper advantage, and a very fine point that just explains itself to me. Pin drive PBR's are somewhat more enclosed than the types I use. The models I use are very open, with the front face/outboard pad exposed to a lot of air on front edge/rear and underside let alone part of it's backing plate as well.(see photo, two circles are backing plate)....and the unexposed portion is tight to the aluminum outer caliper 'flange' that is a great heat sink to transfer heat. Backside/business side of caliper with the pistons is very open between the pistons and on the underside. Here's one install to see how expoed the outboard pad is and the low profile that allows it to clear wheels as well as my maximum inboard location to also aid wheel clearance and bring the assembly closer to inboard ducting should track junkies want to go that route. Here's '1 tuff Z's Xtreme front and old OEM setup pictured.

Mike (on3go) you've got mail Basically yes, I can't say 'bolt on' in my easiest manner as it's a bit of work but all truly easy. Reverse the cages on the outboard ends of the CV's, this is easily done with a small gear puller and less than 30 minutes per side if you're really taking your time. More likely 1/2 that time plus some shaving as noted below. Plus it's advantageous to shave down the exposed end of that CV shaft past the Snapring groove to shorten the shaft just that little extra bit. My adaptor basically adds near zero thickness, just enought to allow the stub axle threaded end to protrude and not hit the CV shaft. So, barring shaving the end of your stub axle down, not easily done on the car at all, I suggest shaving the end of your CV shaft slightly. It has some shaft that extends slightly past the snapring groove, shaving that extension slightly shortens the minimum compressed length of the shaft and allows for tolerable geometry. This is for stock control arm length Z's and not any that may have shortened custom control arms as they may require even shorter CV shafts.....for them they'd want to literally shave a few threads off the end of their stub axle, and shave my adaptor slightly and then it would work on these 'narrowed' rears. May not be required but I haven't had the opportunity to check on such builds so just know what will definitely work. The CV shaft 'shaving' may not even be required but so far for my comfort zone it's something easily done and makes it all 'happy'. The cage reversal at a minimum is required for sure. Ross (I try for short answers, I really do!) C Hope that helps.

Moridin, perhaps someone commented on their C5 setup, but that's a different PBR model (pin drive I call 'em, like LS1's, LS1's are heavy, not sure on C5 models...and yes LS1's are aluminum but I'd never put 'em on my car). The caliper alone does not create fade as you know. It's the entire engineered package and it's designed balance (too much to type now/out of town on webmail for a few days) that will lead to fade or not. Rotor design, not JUST OD, but ID/all rotor specs lead to it's mass in a 2 piece system....and the location of that mass and ability for air to flow etc. PBR's have been track proven for years on heavier cars using http://www.baer.com PBR setps. With my system in competition it would come down to the correct pad depending on the top speed and differential you have to scrub. I look at this individually on more unique systems. ie. the setup I did for a high speed (150mph+) fullout road course racing Z I bumped the rotor mass up as a result of my calculations and the pads were matched HT10's. I could do the rotor's 11lbs or 20........I won't go into it much more detailed online as the great effort I put in this area is the result of a lot of work both on my own and with different model cars I sponsor and am just buds with and I don't share some hard earned procedures so easily. I can't recall how many hours went into the spreadsheet alone for some of the thermal work as one aspect. The rotor has to accept the heat created such that the rotor temp does not exceed the pad temperature limits. With my PBR setup it's not just rotor mass as I"ve engineered them into a lightweight 2 piece rotor, not the 20 lb door stoppers the OEM like domestic pieces are (but that 20 is required for those heavier cars, nothing wrong their). 13" gives you a far greater swept area at a greater radius to name just a couple benefits. The greater area has more exposure/cools easier etc. The greater diameter increases your brake force lever and subsequent braking force available which has the great byproduct of improved modulation as well. I'm not a whiz track driver and the modulation gain is incredible, much easier to drive near braking limits comfortably. It would be a tougher feat to fit the commonly wider/taller AP or Brembo calipers with 13" rotors under a 16" wheel. That's why most setups with similar sized calipers are the just over 12" diam. rotors. The newer supercars have larger and larger OD rotors while they maintain their mass with designed allowances for appropriate heatsink/thermal cycling to meet their pads etc. C5's as I recall came out with sub 13" rotors and some tracking them promptly cracked some rotors during sessions which was alarming (I want to say their rear rotors but don't recall, doesn't matter, just babbling I guess!) My own and 1 tuff Z's PBR setups tracked great with all we could throw at them with no fade running stock KVR carbon fiber street pads. Others in use with feedback being breif and very positive, "installed and works great, thanks". One other customer's wife thanked me at an event, I was quite surprised and then she relayed the car saving stop they had to do on a weekend getaway they were on, car was fine but they had sore necks for a day or two, written up here I believe: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=29771 Not all like typing as much as some of us do so feedback details aren't always that verbose. KVR doesn't reccomend these pads in general for track use as they are a street designed pad so not designed for the higher temps. But I know my limits reasonably and thus can drive my Z to the track and keep my VERY friendly rotor wearing carbon fiber weave KVR pads in and enjoy their linear increase in friction as I heat my rotors beyond my typical street temps. Not many can enjoy a 'no sacrifice' street setup and take it to track events on same pads with no sacrifice (ie. lapping days/I'm not a competition driver by any means, but my V8 280ZX hustles just fine with 300rwhp). I have NO qualms they'd suit your needs, only tuning required would be stepping up in pad types if you're getting into higher heat levels, a very easy and common thing for racers to do which I can easily coordinate with you. Nothing wrong with the brembo calipers, I have a lot of respect and admiration for their products. But knowing what goes into a properly balanced system I'd rather save you both the time and $ and see you enjoy the Xtreme setup front and rear which would meet all your needs without question. I didn't casually name it 'Xtreme' , as an engineer I'm a little cautious (understatement!) in making claims so those I do are very well backed up. My own PBR setup I've had on for some 4 yrs now with daily driving and road course events in WA, California (Thunderhill) autox and at present my rotors show less than some 25 or 30 thou wear. Hope that helps.

Sure Mike, drop me a direct email. I believe you have the address Can't wait to hear of some driving experiences from you (if I missed them point me to them). You'll be moving toward having a very stiff 'hop' like rear experience from a start with that stiff of a rear......at speed acceleration is OK but slower/starts is a different animal. Whats leading you to 300 rears? FWIW, 250 lb/in starts approaching the limits of the Tokico line of struts from my experience. A jump above that but the 375's I so enjoyably ran on my front stressed out my own Illumina's/pricey detail to learn! I didn't follow up with Tokico on warrantee as I fealt my use was abnormal outside their street design. Ground Control had helped with my setup years ago prior to MML and wasn't yet very aware of Illumina limits at that time. That's why the Koni's are listed on my website for the racers as with a properly reinforced car and typically slicks, their suspension setups are VERY different from a street type setup. Springs rates are a lot higher and they require a strut that can provide the responses required, Koni's are basically an affordable entry into struts of this nature. You may be fine with 275's but it is approaching a limit. Local racer uses 400 lb/in with a fully reinforced car and slicks with Illumina's but he's pretty much autox only so doesn't generate much heat or much of any use duration, I believe this allows him to get away with the Illumina's in such a stiff setup.

OK, OK, OK, price just doubled kidding! Thanks for all the kind words fellow members! Some very warm words and much appreciated. Helps make the late nights, some sorta sleepless designing a lot more rewarding. I often don't see the customers cars/experience their results and its the feedback/support like this that is a great 'extra'. Davy, the upcoming aluminum 240Z hubs will suit your needs and will compliment your CCW wheels very nicely! Nothing like dropping weight while boosting performance, less polar moment of inertia/quicker torque/easier braking.... Charles, those were new OEM cast hubs without bearings or studs I'm assuming? OEM has a healthy markup on it, no doubt about that! Interesting comments on the quality/cost. Touches a familiar spot with me as I'm ALWAYS searching the limits of most any design detail and will eventually frustrate the machinists as my nature is to explore each limit and only timely efforts with them allow this. They appreciate the purpose but that doesn't mean they have endless patience This attribute likely explains the restless sleeps conjuring up new ideers to sharpen a pencil on and bring to availability.

Enjoy the new wheels! I'd be quite curiuos to know the runout toloerance on those spacers you made with your methods? If you could pop them by your machinig buddies place some time I'd appreciate knowing......I get kinda geeky about these things

A big congrats to Pete as I enjoyably spotted his work of art-mechanics Z in the Sport Z Magazine I received today! Very kewl Pete ... and naturally

Update:) OEM Z31 spec Aluminum Hubs Available! http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=220800#220800 all the function with some holiday weight loss (the 'see aluminum' diet works better than the 'sea food' diet ) In a nutshell they're round overall, have identical front and rear geometry for rotor/wheel placement (I have many customers running 5lug fronts with zero spacers on Z31 hubs). More details above. Z31 CV adaptors AND R230 CV adaptors in queue at CNC shop Z31's have been out a while with slow feedback coming back since last spring/summer? All details known and being made available mainstream. For the R230 adaptors, they'll include at a minimum the R230 flange adaptor to the flange style CV joint, CV internal stop to allow ideal CV shaft travel/geometry (yes, geometry nailed down ). Shafts may be included as well, finalizing details at present. Front/rear mounts are not in the works at present, anyone particularly liking their own setup we may look at replicating it if you're interested and may want another part of ours in lieue or similar...... Xtreme rear brakes forthcoming shortly:) They'll match our front Xtreme setup to a T! Retain ebrake etc etc......whole nine yards and cake at the finish line Nite.

We're very proud to announce our new aluminum hubs are now available! They were bench engineered well over a year ago with other items seeing production priority (Xtreme brakes, Z31 adaptors, R230 adaptors). So now the hubs are fully proven, all due diligence completed exhaustively (and not without it's costs!!) and ready for enjoyment! First hubs out of the box are Z31 OEM 'knock off' aluminum hubs. These can replace the pentagonal OEM Z31 hub in any existing install combo using this hub. All the exact functional geometry of a Z31 hub with a 240Z rear seal preferred detail, and without the excess weight and improved aesthetics(round ). Not a minor feat to see thru but it's been an enjoyable engineering (thermal/structural/mechanical/QA/QC) combo development process overall to satisfy the 'stout damn strong bulletproof' side and the 'gotta be light and wickedly functional' side, especially when the discussion/debate is often in your own head Many thanks to those that interrupted my internal design efforts and have helped us (this was a team effort, not just me!), engineers and others heavily involved in motorsports that have supported Modern Motorsports strongly in the past and contributed in many facets to this new package available from Modern Motorsports Ltd as part of our new promised lineup. This lineup renews our creative ambition (dropped somewhat in past 10 mos. during that rigorous daytime assignment done now!) and direction to fulfill unique desires of our customers and other enthusiasts that have passed on their suggestions our way. We take great pride in the engineering effort that goes into our packages created uniquely for your Z in function, appearance, and cost. The first run of Z31 OEM 5lug hubs is fully subscribed for by customers already that have rolled them into 5 lug brake setups from ourselves. Very shortly we'll have the second CNC machining run complete to fulfill new orders we're taking at present. This run is expected to be complete within ~ 3 weeks given our present queue of work with our faithful CNC wizards. The initial hubs are available with the OEM 5x4.5 bolt pattern, a full set of CR or BCA (top quality) bearings with races installed & seals included, as well as a set of very stout ARP 1/2" studs installed are included. After we've gone to the effort of creating such a fine piece we're not leaving it to chance for you to sweat out a proper install of the studs and bearing races That'll be done by a machinist using methods to guarantee a square aligned install, similar to our other 5lug hubs and stub axle stud installations. The most critical step once machining is complete. Aluminum is not near as friendly as steel for the stud (or bearing race!) installation and we want these perfect for your ideal use! Did I mention these hubs will also have a new custom aluminum dust cap to match the hub? A neat piece I couldn't resist adding to complete the package in an appropriate manner. We're also going to have the hubs anodized with Type II (HARD!) anodizing to prevent any dissimilar metal corrosion between bearings, potentially steel wheels, steel rotors of one piece design as well as any road salt/grime etc. Besides anodizing looks great and does a wicked job of preventing unwanted nicks in billet aluminum in case you slip with a wrench etc! The price for one complete loaded-fully prepped pair of Aluminum (6061) Hubs Anodized with Hard Type II anodizing, Chicago Rawhide races pressed in, bearings included, ARP studs installed, is $369 US. We feel this is an Xtremely fair price! Many other US fabricators doing far greater sales numbers are selling wicked aluminum hubs for winston car use etc sell their's at $225/hub bare unanodized and upwards depending on specifics. We'll be adding these shortly to our webshop but are taking the usual direct email orders on non listed webshop items as well. Our dedication to delivering on existing orders and fulfilling new requests is priorized above web updates. We'll also have these Z31 hubs available in custom bolt patterns specified by yourself at time of purchase, to suit the needs of some more unique buildups Other items coming forth very shortly include our rear Xtreme PBR large OD vented 2 piece rotor Z brake system! It'll match our front Xtreme setup and make seat belt padding mandatory! Immediately following the next Z31 aluminum hub run we'll be producing 240Z OEM hubs (by demand!), and then perhaps a 280Z OEM hub (minimal requests, let us know via direct email if of interest to you, some wilwood/outlaw brake users are in queue if it goes ahead). Their's another version we may do as well but we'll hold off on that announcement. Our CV adaptors lineup is being expanded, Z31 (4bolt) CV adaptors will be mainstream available shortly along with R230 shaft adaptors as requested. Enough babbles for tonight, thanks again for your support in allowing me to do something I truly love and enjoy! Cheers,

Same place that set you up with your satisfactory rear brake setup Rusty http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=53&PHPSESSID=4906a57aacfbc1a1d42d7a136f5179d1 As you know, it's not an easy solution and in the past many had to create their own custom flared lines to go from SAE to metric, this package makes it easy. Glad you got your install complete and working fine If you do the adjustable bias valve you'll have it all optimized

I myself haven't bought wheels in a few years now so can't really say what has the best wheel choice. Off hand I'd comment for used-OEM style choices their's more favourable 5lug options but for aftermarket I'm not sure if their is a difference or not, depends as well on wheel styles you like. Some styles are much more availble in certain bolt patterns. I know both the 4 lug and 5 lug setups are popular with both having wheels available. Either way one has to check out offsets. A number of my customers have run newstyle (ie. Cobra R knockoffs) 5lug wheels on the front 5 lug hubs WITHOUT additional spacers (some state spacers are required no matter what when going 5lug, they're not). For overall strength, we're quite fortunate as our Datsun OEM parts at the spindle (and many other places) are VERY strong. Now apples to apples with same studs a 4x4.5 bolt pattern is stronger than a 4x100, and thus a 5x4.5 is a step stronger yet. (and 5x5.0 stronger...) Now thankfully we haven't seen (I'm not aware of) failures with various hybridz experiments using these bolt patterns and all have stood up fine to date. If I had the same wheel choices in any wheel pattern and the budget to go 5lug (it is an additional cost over 4lug) I would go 5lug as I have on my own ride. Being an anal engineer extra strength is always appreciated ARP studs are a fine piece of work and I love the tapered/unthreaded snout on the end for initial wheel mounting. I don't have them on my webshop but I've offered used and prepped 5lug hubs for some time of which I typically include them with my Xtreme setups as my customers typically want a soup to nuts package in one box that allows their full install. Just prior to Xmas I sent out a full front/rear brake (Xtremevented/rear solid), adj. bias valve/ Illumina set/coilover set/ Z to Honda adaptors/ swaybar setup to a customer who had planned a single day install for everything with a couple friends helping. Only post shipment response I got from him was " went great, nice stuff ". That's the nature of the packages I ship, cover all requirements and are engineered to your setup. It was with that all inclusive intent that I invested my R&D into creating the PBR setups amongst others that I have. I hope that helps & didn't babble too much. PS Moridin, I read your links with interest and after some lengthy reading only found the PBR 11" Stang GT setup faulted, with no surprise as it was packaged as an economical setup on their still notably 'not light' setup. THeir are MANY different one piece rotors available for 13" PBR setups, some truly suck and some are very good. Friends have raced and cracked the undesirables in the first few laps, others have raced on the top end stuff and loved them. I only use my HD Nascar balanced/stress relieved heavy duty pieces. I don't skip quality steps in any way, one way to do these things IMO. In the one thread the one racer was still using 12 lb 2 piece rotors happily with his PBR 13x1.1" setup on a brake intensive course(v. similar weight rotors to my own) with his led sled stang (no offense, I can enjoy those cars as much as many others, just differentiating because comparing an 11" PBR setup to my own is not apples to apples at all, they're very different calipers actually let alone rotors and vehicles of application).

First off Happy New Years!!! Thanks for the PBR plug guys:) Your own longtime hybridz member/contributor has a front PBR Xtreme setup and will very shortly have an Xtreme rear PBR setup as well, very close to production (260DET, you don't list an email, drop me a line if you can, we're likely similar). PBR has many calipers as we know, my Xtreme combo will clear 16" wheels handily with it's 13" 2 pc rotors, and we're just now looking to see if it will clear 15's by any chance. We never thought it would but appears my geometry even has a shot at that If our standard Xtreme doesn't clear we'll be doing a slightly smaller setup that will clear 15's handily and still provide a large OD (ie. very close to 13"!!) rotor to offer the leverage and appropriate mass (ie. not boat anchor, OEM 13" PBR rotors are some 19-20 lbs!! not rotating on my Z!) for the Z car braking needs. It'll include our usual detailed design/engineering effort already completed. I'll reply at greater length later, I've got to attend to some familial duties with relatives in the meantime on this fine New Years Day! Zya till later,

John, how did the weights work out on the Kodiak wheels? Were yours with his prior billet centres or newer forged centres? Just curious... And I totally agree, with a custom wheel specifying offset is by far easiest to make sure you get exactly the strut to wheel relation you specify (critical clearance for most). For those curious on difference etc, new non-custom order wheels typically are specified with offsets as owners are fitting up and wanting to typically keep the same centerline/wheel location..Xtreme Z's throw that out the window often.