76s30

well if its leaking because of so much pressure your regulator is probably fualty, but that shouldn't keep it from starting. i would check to make sure the injectors are actually fireing and do a compression check. engine needs compression, spark(at the right time) and fuel to run i would pull you distributor cap and make sure the rotor is lined up with #1 when #1 is a tdc.

toyota never did, I did. twinturbo, built it for my celica never used it. I've already got alot of money in the 5m.I set it up with two 14b's I put oil squirters in the block,je forged pistons , and 7mgte rods and crank, yes this makes it a 6mge.

well l31 been done. blow through webersive seen done/run well, mikuni's are easier to tune from what i've noticed so far. but as a general rule blow through sidedrafts just isn't a good idea. further or blow through carbs just kinda lame. i've see draw through work well but boost is limited by lack of intercooling (its impossible, not safely anyway) if you got the extra cash just do EFI, if your ambious and want to be differnt do mechanical fuel injection. wires can be hidden just look at austin's car, efi stand alone is fairly easy sort of. you'll curse the day you thought blow through was a good idea.

ok I can go back to FI tubo and go against everything I normaly do in the name of budget and hp. I'm an N/A guy at heart I love the sound of a engine winding out,and open TB's . the way things are going right now I've got two basic plans laid out that I can accomplish in the desired time table, both leave room for future mods (which is always a must in my book) and have about the same end cost and hp level. Option 1 turbo the l20a I have already use a different head for lower compression or a thicker gasket (not sure on this cuzz a l20 bore head gasket might be hard to come by) run a standalone and a t3 for now. expected power goal 225-235 crank. Option 2 keep the carb, cam and header I have, get an l28 a "good" head run 10:1 comp . expected power goal 210-215 crank edited Option 3 install my 5mgtte with stand-alone (this cost the least but I'm kinda a purist) this has much mor hp potenal at the same cost since i already have it only reason this has even come up , was my turbo buddies working me down. Now i've owned a few turbo cars but, it felt unresposive and had a "disconnected" feel but when that turbo spooled you remebered why you bought it. I hate deceisions like this so I beg of you help me make up my own damn mind!

yes its a spectator only event. but if you really want rack time the Porsche club rents the track 1 or 2 times a year get buddy buddy with them pay part of the rent and vola track time with Porsches and the like. Thursday is qualifing, its nice cuzz no one is there and you can walk the pits and bulls^&% with the teams and check out some of the cars up close. and you get to see all the classes run the track. Friday, Saturday, and Sunday have specific classes that race each day. classes that race at June sprints. GT1, GT2, GT3, GT4, GT5 sports racer C, D . Formula mazda, ford, VW, Atlantic, Contennital And the vintage races are in July, thoses are an absolute blast, wanna see gt40's and other super race cars from times past go then, I'm gonna defiently make those this year.

I can only asume this is an nissan l6 ok if you got fuel presure ate the rail (that is the term) I would use a screw driver on the injector body other on your ear (cheap stethescope) have a friend turn the engine over. you should hear a disticative click, click , click. it will have a faster pace than the other engine "noises". if no check ecu. if yes pull spark plug wire from #1 cly put another plug in and ground it well. if theres a good blue spark check compression. if theres no spark check ingition system. hope this helps

I thought it might be cool if a few more z guys showed up at the June sprints then my local Z "click" which amounts to 4. we have gone to the june sprints every year since 01, always have fun, bulls*&T and watch the races. just a thought. thanks for reading. FYI SCCA june sprints are at Road America, Plymoth WI

Thanks 1 fast Z i found the info on your head page. every one says tiny ports, but my mikuni manifold (yes its a short runner mikuni) lines up perfect i'll snap a pic down the port/runner today. so i keep thinking l28 flat top with e30 head according to every one else thats actually looked at one they have good quench. but L engine (yes i know its fubared) says 11.33 comp which sounds aout right with std gasket, so i figured thicker gasket or E85 (i have a fill up right in town, my big block runs on it, hell i built it for it) thoughts any one? how do mikuni like alcohol? or i could run some turbo blue 105, since i drive the thing like once every 3 months i put 275km on last summer

i'm cirious what the average e30 l20a head cc's at does any one know? thanks

thanks i've looking for a way to clean up that potion of the underhood area does any one know what each color's link amp rating is, i was thinking of doing the same thing but with self resetting breakers

MY 76 fairlady is a 5 speed, has non vented hood, and 240 blinkers, and tiny little 240 bumbers. and from what i've read this is how all the s30's came in japan. but it also comes with a tiny l20a I just relized this is an old post oh well

well as for engine localy avialble to me i've got a 2.8 with n47 and 2 82 zx with p79 now both the n47 and the p79 's have liners yes i know they still flow good but i already have a square port header. i figured i could get the 2.8 with the n47 head and use the cam towers from that. and the work of removing and cleaning i'll do that my self, so it really doesn't cost anything but time.

i found a n42 head but its in rough shape its been sitting in the elements for a while and the cam is more than likley siezed in the towers, the valves would take some work to remove but its free. so can I use cam towers off another N series head? or are the line bored on the head. thanks

That is a really cool swap, I would have never even thought of doing something like that. bravo for originality.

well I'm no expert (not even close) on these cars but my engine slants the same amount and all the other ones I've seen (including my friends 71 240) slant that same amount. so i would say you go it right IMO

the tail lights were acutaly a kit sold by a company called "IMPACT PARTS" they were based out of NYC that kit was sold in the late 80's early 90's I don't know how ever what vehicle they actually sourced the lights from, but they made the fiberglass rear filler panel. again they were installed when I found it and they are ultra rare and I kinda like um so there they stay. A little more info about the car, when i was going through it I found the original wheel stops still sealed in the plastic bags they came in. and some emission testing papers from 4/84, 10/85, 7/86, but they are in japenese, I'll try and snap some pics of um if you would like to see. There also a U.S. forces Japan sticker on the windshield just above the rear view mirror, assumably from the serviceman who owned it back in the day and was nice enough to bring it home with him. Sorry savageskaterkid unless your going to finish my 3 other projects for me no

So then would it be worth it form me to rework my E30 head thats on the l20a right now with bigger valves and new springs, port polish, I've heard the E31 head takes alot to get it to work as good as a N42 or P90. Are the camber volumes the same on the E30 and E31 I thought that they made them smaller for the smaller engine. To BRAAP No I did not install the valve spings, it did pull hard to 6k (the stock redline) I rarely took it to 6500, so I guess I didn't make note of the exhaust note change, by valve float I meant the valve kissed piston and bent the valve. thank you for your insight.

Thanks for the compliments guys I am new to L series, carbs, and Datsuns. Nissans (even though its the same thing) I'm familiar with, I've had my share of Z31's, sentra's, 240sx's I'm also currently working on my 76 celica liftback , new frame is almost done and bbf is going in soon Thanks again

I've been reading alot of pasts posts here and have seen alot of misconceptions about stroke to rod ratio being asscoiated with the stroke "I thought the ideal stroke/rod was 1.8 on a short stroke engine" and many others just like this. so I though i would post some very good reading, it sarts off explaining the 4 stroke cylce yada yada, but if you read farther there is some really good stuff in there so for you reading /learning pleasure http://www.elgincams.com/campaper.html

Let me take this opportunity to introduce my self. My name is Jake, I live in Green bay. One of the cars I currently own is a 76 fairlady Z I saved from a barn other than the lower core support its clean. it was originaly brittish racing green (looks about that color under the carpert) now its a blue that looks sorta like the 350z color. (painted before I found it) When I found it it had dead mice in the HAVC system, it was dirty and other than paint and maybe the mirrors (they are power, still on the fenders though) it was original. The fuel injection system was in/op faulty ecu I believe. The fuel lines leaked every where The clutch was in/op I replaced the clutch, removed the fuel injection system wraped and boxed it. installed triple 40mm phh mikuni's MSA "stage 3" cam, and the correct lash pads. MSA 6 into 1 header 2 1/2 " exhaust Magnaflow SS muffler Holley fuel pump inplace of stock hi pressure efi pump and a regulator. well under 3500 it ran like poop, due inpart that the carbs were set up for a 2.8 with same cam. rejetted it, and ran good.Took the car to the family afair for Thanks Giving, on the way home I put it in 2nd not 4th (doh) floated a valve. Now its almost Z driving season again here. If I'm rebuilding an engine its going to be a 2.8 N/A for now with room to turbo later. so my question to whom as ever been kind enough to read this far, is are 40mm phh to small with an N42 head stage 3 cam on a 2.8 I would like to make 170 -180 whp. I'm afaird that the 2.8 will run out of breath on the top end with 40mm carbs, are my suspisions true? Thank you

thank you

ok this will probably get me flamed but i searched and read and the r180 and r200. sticky says 280z 75 + manual should have r200 but mine is a fairlady so i was wondering if they put r180's in because of the smaller engine. thanks in advance

I'll take one I can mill the bellhousing my self. great job austin