76s30

thank you jmortensen I would have searched a little more had I known that info.

if so what are the benifits of this setup, http://page11.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/n51283261 thanks

SEARCH ITS stright up from here ^ but since I'm feel like being nice p90 is the usual head of choice with turbo theres a company selling the z32 tranny swap kit the stock ecu afm is good for 300 hp tops r200 axles and rear will handle just about anything msa sells turbo cams I have no experience with the turbo cams but have been very happy with their N/A cams clutch you have lots of choices 240hoke is selling is lightly used one. ld28 crank for stroker there finaly i got to tell some one to search....lol

I guess they are all 400 plus,well as long as they don't shread I can deal with that. Thanks for the info.

Yes I did search and I found that rabello was working on one. that was a pretty old post though, I was woundering if anything came of this or am I stuck shelling out 400 bucks for an ATI. I've shreaded the 2 I've had on hand in the past 3 weeks I and only take it to 6-6500. so now I really need one, and its becoming quite anooying to change them this frequently. Thank you.

the ford stright six in your co workers truck is a 4.9 300ci. chevy has made striaght sixes since the fifteys , often refered to stovebolt sixes. chevy started with a 215. then made it a 230 then a 250. then they casted a new 250 block that they made into a 292. Ford's made the 170, and 210. the ford 300ci has a rare Cross flow head for it with much better combustion camber design. the chevy has siemes ports but is a reallllly smooth engine (I've owend both a 300 ford and a 292 chev) ford 300ci as been one of there staple industrial engines for a very long time now. I don't know about the ford but my 292 chev with factory one barrel carb, made something like 275 ft/lb's of torque at 1500 rpm.

If I was filthy rich that would defently be the thing to have.

Yes sir it is. it was just toooo clean a z to pass up. still shiny black underneath ( well after 40+ hours or cleaning it was) a little rust on the core frame but i took care of that. I absolutly love the car. Thanks for all the compelments, though i really wish i had decluttered under the hood before the vid. the vid was open header I've been terrorising the industrial park my shop is in. I still had a light load/ part throttle miss, so I installed the MSD after the video. now it takes 5-6 turns to start instead of one and it misses even worse. It back fires out the carbs while tring to start. what gives I changed nothing just installed the box?

got it. some where along the line I had 2 plug wires swaped or something took them all off and did it again and ran fine wtf. whatever it works. http://s88.photobucket.com/albums/k165/red66chev/?action=view&current=100_1073.flv

tried searching all i found was turbo related threads and rich was the cause. f54 short block n42 head. msa stage 3 cam (270/280 advertised) compression is 175 all cylinders. blaster 2 coil dissy from 76 l28 new cap new rotor new wires new NGK 6es's gaped at .044 timing set at 16 btdc idle. same thing happens at 20 btdc and 13 btdc I forgot to hook up vac advance maybe this is the cause? I just relized this triple mikunis setup for this engine combo, I'll note the jet sizes sunday afternoon after I go mess around with it for a while holley 110 gal/hr fuel pump regulator set at 5.5 psi idle. timing light shows miss at all rpm's engine idles extremely rough like it has twice the cam it reallly does it smothes out 2-4.5k rpm (still missing but smoother) it hits a wall at 5k load and no load I don't get it; could it really be the vac advance, I have an MSD 6AL I'm going to install sunday. I'll note any efffects; improvements

Ok this is such a newb post but when it comes to wheels I am. any way I'm shopping for wheels now 15 or 16" dia. and old school. I've seen lots of pics of wheels I like that meet the criteria but I don't know what they are. I'm not how you say a Wheel-ologist. so if any one has some good suggestions. for wheels for my Fairlady, please chime in whith picures of the wheels or the wheels on the car and what size brand etc they are. I've found its quite difficult to shop for wheels if i don't know exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks in advance Jake

the core design would give much better heat transfer but it is not as compact. with the tube intercooler thought you could make a new J pipe and fool everyone. "all stock no intercooler" lol

on the trailbazer six don't use the stock intake. and slant the motor. there hood clearence solved. its also all alumium top to bottom. well except for the oil pan maybe. they are very light and about the size if not smaller than a jeep 4.0 I really believe anything widely available with a larger displacement as far as staright 6's go, is going to be a much larger engine (outside dimension wise) Staight sixes have many draw backs they are heavier for equal displacement to V engines, most have harmonics problems. they really long which obviously isn't good for weight balance, and a couple others. But man are they sweet. how short do you think this big big nissan six is? not very is my guess. not to mention it has sae 3 bellhousing bolt pattern. for those of you who do not know what that means. Its really big well for a car any way. the bellhousing bolt pattern is a circle and 16.5" in dia. uses larger med-duty truck transmissions. the gm I5 is more like a saab I5. your better off using a 292 chevy or a 300 ford if you want BIG displacement straight 6 theres a racing class just for american straight sixes. So they do go. long time ago I think it was car craft did an article about making power with these engines. since in stock trim they don't turn a hair more than 4k.

back in japan in the day they made a 6mge before a the 7mge, it was just that a 7m bottom with a 5m top. the 5m heads flow quite well have a close look at one off an engine. nice combustion cambers, good radius's on the ports, big valves. a turbo 5m makes same hp lb for lb of boost as a 7m. but the torque curve is wayyyyyy different. I built a tt 6mge. I sold it just recently to a friend of mine that has a MKII supra, can't wait to see it in there man that sucker will go.

as any one considered the chevy trail blazer engine. its 4.2 Liter dohc 275-290 hp stock depending on year. uses standard new chevy belhousing, so transmissions are not a problem.

l28 is just a little to heavy for my plans. mine floated with the suzuki engine I hope it still will with all the added weight of 20r and dual t-cases, and toyota solid axles. and 18.4 -16.1 swathers those are 44" x 18.5" fyi my rad is also still in front.

back before diesel became as popular as it is today, hell even now. farmers ran irriagation pumps on NG when the engine was designed for it not a "converted" gas engine, they made great power and lasted almost forever. for now I'll stick with running a diesel DD the fuel is cheaper and you go farther on a gallon.

I'm putting the fairlady back together this week with the f54/n42 triples and 280 cam. as it looks right now i'm still putting an l28 In the celica. just a turbo one now. those 22ret's are junk. its still a 22r which is a steadfast reliable engine. but the turbos sucked and they are plagued with problems I'd take an l28 over that any day. l28 in a samurai have you ever even been in a samurai? 22r barely fits length wise. add 12" where am I going to sit. second I'd have to use nissan tranny and transfercase. nissan transfercases suck. and I'm already using toyota axles so that would mean funky driveshafts. third a 20r is heavy a l28 is wayyyy to heavy. for a samurai thats going through mud anyway.

on the old efi ignition is seperate. i put mukini's on and left the ignition alone.

level ten can build just about any auto/converter set up worth running. they also carry performance valve bodies, real shift kits, performance rebuild kits. everything auto. best to call them and talk to a real person.

give Level 10 a call they might have a valve body for it.

I read all four pages all I can say is wow. I build almost every thing my self, usually proud of it, but the difference is I should be. They brag about low buck..... well if the cost of tools is not taken into considerration only materials, I can make stuff a hell of alot nicer for less. Like Tony and Paul said there's making it work and theres doing it right. but theres also making it look like you actually cared. It seems this guy did care. but didn't want to do it right only make it work. Its a sad world we live in, I was better off knowing that site never existed, I think we all are if the majority of the content is this. God bless Hybridz

well we all know s*** rolls down hill. a short time ago I went and met WHEELER. I bought 3 l28s from him for a very reasonable price (Thanks Collin). One of them is a 81 turbo the fairlady gets this one. even though the engine in the fairlday won't be used as a "whole" the majority of the parts are getting put on one of the other l28's which is going into my 76 celica, the 20r from the celica already went into the samurai. so it goes like this new engine + fairlady -old engine+ celica- old engine + samurai = lot of work. I feel this qualifies as hybridz material because the celica is getting an l28. when I get working on it again I'll post some pics in the project sec. gotta go get my frame bench back first.

I'm not on the up and up on new welders. mostly because I just won't spend that kind of money. But my advise would be to get a machine with square wave, that adjustable, it will more than pay for it self with saved frustration on alum. with adjust. square wave the amount of penatration versus cleaning action can be varied. makes welding that much easier, and prettier. I get buy with my oldies but if i had more money to spend thats what I would buy.

I just noticed this thread going.... doh. just so you can take my word for it I'm an ASE certified heavy equipment tech. lest start with the first thing that really pissed me off. diesel fuel has less btus per weight. well you can't go by weight fuel is measured in volume. If it had less energy per volme then why the hell would we use it in big equipment, oh yeah gas isn't 25 cents a gallon any more we can't just make super huge gas hogs anymore. efficency my friend. a friend of mine had a 87 pete longnose flattop sleeper (all bad for areo) ran a c-15 cat cranked to 600 rwph. reguraly hauled 83k lbs plus the truck he barely got by the scales at 99,800 lbs did 70 mph west coast runs weekly and got 3.7 mpg try that with a gas engine. second you gave numbers for #1 diesel where the hell can u even get #1 diesel any more? #2 diesel has 144,600 btu's per gal. gas if I remeber correctly was 136,*** increasing combustion camber volume might be very difficult on a ld28, I 've only seen one and I remember it had glow plugs, this means it has a precombustion camber its a small little "cup" "shpere" either in the piston or in the head. which the fuel is injected into. the glow plug is there to pre-heat the air. diesel fuel burns beacuse the air is heated past its flash point (the temp/ conditions when some thing will self combust) diesel pistons vary but most are dished, and the heads are also mostly flat, the whole combustion "camber" would be considered a "quench" area. and I'm yet to see an injection pump that can be "cranked" up to 5x normal output. production light duty diesel engines such as the ld28 the injection pumps are purposly built just big enough, with almost no extra delivery available. The reason for this, when the injection pumps get old it will start to over fuel, black smoke high egts, etc. second reason it costs less to produce a smaller pump. modern heavy equipment engines cost as much as a brand new car, they don't skimp, also they build the same basic engine for several power- levels for different aplications.