76s30

destroking a diesel would more than likely make an engine that didn't run, after they are compression ignition engines. deisels have long strokes for two reasons. make torque because that is what trucks demand. making gobs of torque at low revs, saves matiance, fuel, tec. second reason to build compression. i've never seen the internals on a ld28 so i can;t say for sure. but its not the boost pressure that kills its the amount of fuel being injected to use all that air. if nissan over built the ld as much any other motor they have made I would say triple stock output and as much air as needed to eliminate smoke. though you might run into crank problems depending on how fast you turn it, keeping it under 4500 would be advisable. the vernable 5.9 is usually only pushed to 5000 in competion use, and that thing is build like a tank. literally I have one in my chevy and it weights an easy 1300, consider the small displacment to weight of engine ratio. a heavy turck diesel like a cat c-12 or a cummins n14 is around 4000. big cats are 5000 to 5500. but they also make 2200 lbs of torque at 1100 rpm.

My lincoln came from an auction. My miller I got at a redneck yard sale. (redneck yard sale ... well there was a trailer home, a camaro for sale, some harley parts.... yep I think that qualifies) He also paid 100 for it don;t know where he got it, probably an auction. go to as many auctions as you can, especialy if your tring to put together a decent shop going on a budget. I've bought lots of my tools at auctions with great sucess. just go with an open mind, if you think you might need it and the price is dirt A$$ cheap, jump on it you can alwasy sell it for a profit. Thats my number one rule when I go, I only buy if I know I can sell it for more. Don't go just looking for one thing, that donest get you far. after a while of hunting you make contacts, then the stuff just starts finding you. I've been hunting for equipment for 5 years now and probably wont ever stop.

Itialian diesels. NOT a good idea IMHO. the italians never made a very stout engine (not a diesel I've seen anyway) IVECO trucks were alright not power houses by any means fuel efficent yes but no where near powerful. Jeep tried using italian and french diesels back in th eighties it only lasted 2 years I think that says something. might try an isuzu 4 banger (its a big 4 holer) those are something around 130 hp factory and turbo already. the injection pumps can be turned up quite a bit. Maybe some propane injection?

not really it was only 2x2x 3/16 if I remmeber corectly , 5 lb mini sledge and anvil.or just something hard and heavy. I got the wheels from harbor frieght for 20 each . I've had my celica frame on here and a 1966 chevy cab held up great.

if you hunt there are good deals out there you don;t have to buy new. I've had the same lincoln dc-250 multi-process machine for years. I got that for 400 bucks with a LN-7 wire feeder and 50 ft power cord to the feeder so I can go ANYWHERE. I added a tig torch and pedal to that for 200 (used but they still work) and just last week I scored a Miller Dialarc ac/dc HF machince with cooler and cart everything minus gas tank and tig torch for 100 bucks thats right 100 bucks. 400 dollars for the tank and torch and consumables. and I'm welding alum at home now. Buying used old equipment for good deals is better than buying new cheap stuff any day.

what kind, not that i've never seen it done but an l28et in a 74 720 2wd would be friggin SWEEET.

mustang related mags have adds for rebuild kits. other good reading material would be "how to rebuild and modify manual transmissions" I forgot who its by. I got it at Barnes& Nobel good reading and half the book is dedicated to T5's of all types.

just thought I'd add this the cross bar to conntect the two isn't shown. Itcost me 100 for the wheels and 40 for the steel. The wheels are 10" makes it super easy to wheel around.

what I find the most funny are the real california cheese commercials, happy cows make good cheese. yet you live in california and get cheese here. LOL Just so this isn't totaly off topic I'll be building a tubular mostache bar on monday (hopefully) i'll post some progress pics. after that I think I'll try my hand and some ALC for the rear. NO way am I paying 500+ dollars for 10 feet of cromoly tube and 4 rod ends.

using the stock turbo manifold would be easiest. The h1c, hx35, hy35 all bolt right on. hang out on the z31 forums (not that this isn't a great place) but theres more people there runing budget built v30et's, many pushing 500+ whp.

I would say put the provisions for mounting it in. leave the bar out. drive it see how you like it, pay with the suspension a little espicaly the 3 link there a lot of adjustablity there. if you don't see the results you wanted try it with all over again. Most guys I see running 3 links at the track run rear sway bars.

E85 has some very desirable qualities. Like 105 octane rating. obvioulsy fuel milage suffers but not all the time. meaning only when you get into it. other wise expect to get 90% of what you did before when "normal" driving. ethal alchol has much lower btu content per gallon, to produce the same hp it takes 40% more fuel. usually depenging on boost level an inter cooler can be done away with. thus making the whole system more responive and efficent.

IM my buddy on AIM he put one in his Z31 turbo along with a ACT solid 6 puck his AIM S/N is cheez300zx he'll be able to answer all your questions just tell him Jake sent you.

ok I don't have any experince with the LD28, I do have experince with nissan UD truck though. I've found nissan to build a very stout/sound truck IMO fun fact: in the hay day the international haverster company built scouts they offered a diesel model, know what powered it... A UD... huh..... If I wanted a diesel to be fast or at least quick...... much taller rear gears to make use of the torque and lower rev range. possibly a sequencial turbo setup for boost in the niehberhood of 75 psia much larger exhuast and of course a re calibrated injection pump. maybe port the head to lower the egt's if it became a problem.

well I don't know about cars but DOT regulation for a medium/heavy duty truck emergency brake must be activated by mechanical means only. be it cable, linkage etc. and in the case of a heavy duty they have dual camber brakes, when no air pressure is pressent a 1650 lb/in spring holds the brakes locked on. I've never seen a car come factory with anything but a cable.

30#'s of cheese my god man, I hope you don't eat all that yourself. I don't think any one here even eats that much in a year. Oh and I really didn't mean to start a pissing match with you. for what its worth I appologize

use a screw driver as a stethascope (haynes tells you exactly how. its andold trick) on you injectors to be absoluty sure they are indeed not functioning. from there its generaly bad wiring or bad ecu. no compression means more than bad rings or gasket. If a valve is bent/stuck the cylinder will not build compression, furthermore if the cam is not timed correctly it will have no or little compression (if the cam is to far out of time bent valves are a possobilty) PS the auto parts store will loan you a compression tester for a small deposit refundable when you return the tool.

update A z friend stoped by yesterday, ofered a l28 and n42 head for a very good price. right now I want it running so I'm gonna put this one together and run it. In the mean time I can put together a turbo motor. For now at least the car will be running/ driving. I just didn't feal right puting a 5m in a Fairlday. If it was an A-spec, I would have done it already. Thanks for the advise.

well two mufflers (as long as they are non louvered core) in series will make it quieter, and not reduce flow. packaging I leave in your hands or you local exhaust shop.

Pump gas, and water injection is a form of intercooling. Just saying theres easier ways of having a more drivable vehicle. I've never messed with carbs your right on that account but I have plenty of friends that do. I'm a diesel mechanic by trade so fuel injection is just normal to me (albeit it opperates completely different) My samurai is mechanicaly fuel injected and superchaged toyota 20r (electronics don't like water) Don't ever call me a parrot, since you don't know anything about me. Thank you

ok start by replacing the battery they are cheap and it will help to know its for sure good, isn't time for an optima anyway? then replace battery terminals. check condition of all major lines, i.e. battery to starter, battery to body , body to engine, etc. make sure nothing is shorting out, leave the key on for a little while and touch wire with you hand to see if they are warm.

Sorry missed you post until it was to late. I'm aways from stevens point to. green bay.

ok some of you probably know these guys thought i'd add it though i've used them for years. mostly for circle track, hot rod. but then again with a welder its all universial. check um out http://www.speedwaymotors.com

Currently there is only one person designing coil overs for z31 stuff. My friend with a turbo z31 has been awaiting these, but alas they are still not avalible.

as far as i know (I've done a few firwall R&R for customers) the firwall is different. on my Fairlady every thing is in about the same place except the pedals, MC,throttle, etc. and thats from the engine compartment side. on the dash side of the fire wall is an array of different brackets. I preffer the real thing any way.