76s30

well it would be prefed that you make the piece from not cast. so the block alloy would need to be analyzed and a sutiable alloy of steel would be chosen and machined from a solid block. after all if your puting that much effort in to it go all the way and do it right. Then you'd at least have a cnc program you could make more. but it still would need to be installed and line bored honed on each individual block.

I've had the same problem with a couple stock dampeners the key keeps flipping out. Glad I'm not the only one I felt like such an ass when I cracked a pulley. I ended up grinding the key so it was steped (narrower on the top) and took a little of the top and mic-ed the pulley and remmed it.

they have those for rb's already it add's about 1/2" to the pan rail. But prevents the block from cracking between 5 and 6. this only happens above 700 hp. It ties all the manins directly to the block skirt. Electromotive alos used one of these in the z31 race car. OTM it should be made of the same material as the block or a material with very close expansion rate. after all its what holds the crank, as it is only a main girdle. VG's already have something like this but it doesn't tie into the pan rail. it just connects the mains to help with block flex. Hell even the old d15 12 valve in my 87 crx had a main girdle. but again it didn't tie into the pan rail. And before you try and figure out how to get the bottom end to stay together worry about getting a head to flow well enough to support 10k on an L. toyota 4age's hold together to 11k with out such devices but they are iron blocks.

the shiro springs are worth something to z31 guys too

the 4.5 from the land cruiser isn't that just the lexus v8? pretty sure it is.

Jeep 4.0 6 holers also got the r154 but in the parts world its refered to as a asin warner AX 15. If they use it in a truck it probably more than capable. remeber it not just how much torque your making its how much the vehical weights or pulls. cars don't need big heavy transmissions they can't tow much and don't weigh much, now a 1/2 ton truck with a 6000 lb tow capacity, thats 11000 lbs of weight to move thats 4 time the torque LOAD than the same trans will see in a car.

well yes the ultimate torque (at the wheels with correct gearing for the diesel) would be the same as a gas. I was refering to the torque that the drive shaft and the body would experience. with tall gears the transmission and drivshaft are put under much higher torque loads than before. So I would think that the body would twist more. especialy between the trans and rear. I'm also used to big trucks which are under a higher loads every where because of the weight they must pull/haul no matter what the gearing. But the main objective would be to increase the gearing ( lower number) untill e.t.s start to rise. Other wise you will not see the potential output of the diesel. On the subject of the head it is my opinion that nissan cut or cast the head with a shorter deck to cam center distance, as an easy way to increase compression. since I have only see one of these and it was in a 4 dorr stanza I can only speculate. What if a gas head was adapted and injectors placed in the spark plug holes? yes a custom piston would be required to get the compression back and adapt to the differnt combustion camber design. but not as much compression would be needed or wanted if turbocharing was used. There are quite a few porduction diesels with aluminum heads. this would also help fix the port problem.

The other porblem I see..... say you do make 550 ft/lbs from one of these. good luck on the tranny. the torque comes in hard and fast. would you put a big block in front of your little nissan tranny... probably not. When juging power of a diesel its best to look at the torque not the hp. since you don't rev to the moon anyway. now how many rpms can you make 450ft/lbs of torque? if you could do it from 1500 to 4500 and had some tall gearing you would be very fast indeed. I see 12's possible in a z car though major structural renforcement would be needed.

ok the cummins is a med duty truck engine so is the 7.3 ford (built by IHC) they are bulit alot heavier. and can take punishment accordingly. Glow plugs have one prupose to preheat the air so after it is compressed it is at 1000 degrees or more. Glow plugs hang out in a little precombustion camber a small cup in the piston or in the head that the fuel is injected into. Not all diesel have glowplugs, the cummins B,C and N seires just have a flat head and a dished piston. If you were set on making power with a L I would work on adapting an injection pump from a larger (higher hp) engine. maybe even a p7100 bosch from a cummins. Making power in a diesel is about flowing fuel. We port heads on the big diesels when egt's get to high. Air flow is nesscesary of course. but when your runing 80-100 lbs of boost you can cram alot of air through a tiny port. Not that some care shouldn't be taken to open up the flow some since the richest a diesel runs is 15:1 A/F and thats the piont were you see black smoke and egt's start climing above 1400 which mean piston meltdown is close at hand. Tractor pull guys run in excess of 250 psi with turbos feeding turbos the enigne disapears under a mass of exhaust tube. Its common to find any where from 5 to 8 turbos on a competion rig. there are at least 2 stages, almost always 3 sometimes 4. A diesel can spool a very large turbo at relativly low rpms as long as its under load.The more load the more boost. your average semi truck will boost 2 psi when you give it with no trailer. Put a full trailer behind it and watch that 30psi gauge peg. The biggest problem I see with making power (not making it hold the power) is getting the fuel, its not like gas efi or carb and you can just swap out for bigger stuff I.E. bigger injectors remap the computer and maybe a bigger fuel pump. The heart and soul of a diesel IS the fuel injection unit. Tunning is not terribly difficult though. Getting the timming right and add fuel untill you can keep egts below 1400 under full load. Diesel injection pumps have "torque backup" built in the amount varies between pumps. But 25% is generaly the case. Torque backup is what allows the engine to built torque when the rpms drop becuase of load. I.E. an engine is held WOT and is spining 2000 rpm no load, A 300 ft/lb load is placed on it. The rpms drop untill the eninge is making 300ft/lb of torque. Gas engines have this to but not in the same way. I.E. an industrial gas engine is grossly under rated from its max hp. say an l28 for example in an industrial application would be rated for about 50 hp maybe 60. Its how much power it can make at what rpm with out losing rpm. sorry for the long post hope this info is a little helpful.

yep it is an anchor has exremly long stroke 4.5" and it weighs somthing like 680lb

ok i re read the other post I'm an idiot

your welcome to but nothing is free (I'm sure you alreday knew this) but somethings I have a hard time selling. Like I said I'm a total pack rat.

the advantage of dom over erw other than a slightly higher tensiel strength lies in the fact that dom tube that is said to be .095 wall is really .095 every where. erw tube can vary to .089 to .099.... so to keep from having an illeagal cage you buy erw tube with thicker wall. which is heavier. Speed costs money.

I saw a thread a few days back about the euro damper. But does any one know anything about this one its only 120 plus the "bolt kit" I guess its special is 40 so 160 plus shipping. In my eyes not dam bad. I know the BHJ piece is really nice but its really expensive, I have other cars to spend money too. This is for a stroker motor I've yet to assemble, I won't be turning past 7k. Comments? thanks

well as far as spare parts specifily Impossible for me to list. only a 1/4 of it is z any thing but it all takes up 4 8foot tall 8 foot wide shelves and another 15x20 ft of floor space. I get stuff really cheap and I just kinda hoard. AND I have abondand projects in the past. so everything but the car satyed.Not nearly as bad as my neighbors though. both of them have 8 or 9 semi trailers packed with every thing and any thing. They're the guys I call at 3 AM "do you have one of these" ......lol but off the top of my head - 4 l28's - 1 l20a - 3 z five speeds -1 z four speed. - boxes of injectors for eveything - boxes of fuel pumps, oil pumps -2 toploader 4 speeds -3 toyota 20r's -2 460's -2 76 celicas in boxes - 4 toyota t-cases - 3 rockwell t-cases - 2 boxes of AN- lines - 1 boxes of AN fittings - steering racks for i don't know what - one 8x8 wheel rack full - carbon fiber z31 hood - 3 or 4 boxes of z31 stuff - 3 boxes of s30 stuff....... -.................. Hello my name is Jacob and I am a parts whore "Hello Jacob"

I was 17 living with my dad at the time, my witer beater for the year wasn't starting. so to find out if it was the starter or the ignition switch. I turned the key to run and prociede to jumper the starter with a screwdriver. well it started to bad i left it in revease (auto) it then bashes my dades garage door out a foot and half. I had to work soon so I did my best to bend it back and make it look like nothing happened. 5 years later i was up at my dads house visting we were in the garge b.s. ing. and he says "why is the light coming through between my garge door panels". "oh that I said uhhhh...." and the rest is history. driving folleys- 16 (had brighter years) they ahd just installed a round about in our small town, and i though to my self I'm gonna drift that. well it was a year later Ihad a z31 and I did well sorta. I made it 270 * around and then sand and gravel came into play. out went the back the whole pass side of the car went up onto the curb. But not be fore making a loud thunk. Ok i'll just drive away I thought... wrong. start the car let out the clutch ... snub ..... okkkk try again let it out .... snub.... wtf. get out look .... ahhh #$^& wheel is cocked at a 45 arm is cracked stub axel snaped or bent. next thing i know a cop is shinning me saying what happened. "AHHHH........ " completely dumbfounded I fese up, he laughes at me, calls the tow truck. tow truck comes and the wheel lift won't go narrow enough. calls a flatbed. flatbed comes picks it up. at this point i relieze i forgot my walet. the took truck takes the car, I walk a mile home and get a ride and get my car out of hoak in the mourning. to this day I have not drifted another corner. hell i barely do the speed limit, even in my Z's

Well since I now have to punch out my block. I thought a 3.1 would be pretty cool to do.

any one have any experience with these or the seller, or perhaps any advice? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Nissan-280Z-280ZX-L28-3-0-Flat-Top-Piston-Kit_W0QQitemZ110141410283QQihZ001QQcategoryZ140692QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem thanks

Just thought I should clarify a 4 bar is not adjustable. a 4 link is.

I took the car around the block, about a mile away, smoke just poured into cabin. go back to shop open hood smoke is coming out of crank case breather. do compression check number 5 plug is soaked in oil, absolutly no compression, NONE. Did I break a ring land and or ring. simply because of a interminit miss? I haven't tore it down yet but its pretty obvious already that the cylinder and piston are toast. Just that I've never see it happen with only a miss fire. still had good oil pressure 4.5 bar all the time temp normal. It was fine for a week and then a low milage short block takes a dump. WTF!!!!!! I was not extremly hard on it, I drive spirtedly but usually not hard.

This I already knew we used to run vacum pumps though with a wet sump. the comparison was done on the same unopened engine. IT was on the Power block on spike I forget what show. but all they did was slap on the dry sump pan, pump and fed it back into the stock oil filter location. The engine was on a dyno, never removed and consectutive tests where done. They picked up 20 hp on the top end. Normally on a ford this would not be done the stock oil passages would be blocked and AN- lines run to the respective sub gallies; ie head had seperate lines running to it from the lower end, solid lifters were also utialized in our builds. Most high rpm ford builds involve some kind of oil restricter to limit flow to the head. But it was done on a 350 chevy which I know next to nothing about.

ok it seems logical to me and I've seen a comparison done on the same engine with and with out and picked up 20 hp with the dry sump. but it was sbc and I believe they only took it to 6k. So just how much is a l6 lossing to windage at what rpm, wouldn't the L series crank have more conter weights slinging through the oil? Why I ask this, I have 3 stage barnes setup with a 1.5 gallon butler tank I got way cheap a few years back. I thought I might use it some day, well I still haven't now I'm tring to make excueses to use it. Any insite is much appreceated.

hey collin hows the Z comin along, finally got the new front frame stub in? I'll be down in elk heart this weekend for the races. maybe take a detour and say hi?

Aircraft spruce they have every thing from chromoly to carbon fiber