Dragonfly

September 8, 2005

The first thing is that all I have read and heard is that a stock Nissan intake manifold will split at the seams at around 24# of boost, which means either finding some way to reinforce the stock intake or making a custom steel intake that looks like a stock aluminum intake. The other thing is you do not need to increase your bore that much to increase your displacement. Take your LD28 crank (stroker crank) and after it has been fully checked out to make sure it is good have a compitent shop weld up the journals and re-grind them with a greater stroke length. This procedure will increase your torque notibly but you will have to "notch" the bottom of your block for clearance of the connecting rods. This is what is done to get 3.2 and and higher displacement out of an L series block without blowing out the cylinder walls.

As for the boost you want to run you need to "O" ring the block/head in order to hold the boost without blowing out your head gasket. Now for my thoughts on block prep... since you want this engine to last more than one race you need to put some TIME and effort into the block. Start by de-burring everything in the block, then carefuly radius every single sharp edge in the block, that includes your mains and caps (use a small sharp file to knock the sharp edge off then use 120 or finer grit sand paper on a small piece of wood to dress the edge after using the file). You should do this to every sharp edge in the entire block except to top (deck) of the cylinders. I personaly spent over a month preping my block. Do not polish the inside of the block, it should retain some texture to help with internal cooling.

I have to get back to work right now but don't let anyone tell you it can't be done.

Dragonfly

August 26, 2005

I use the crimp connectors without the insulation, then I solder them. This way to get the mechanical connection from the crimp, and a solid electrical connection through the solder. Heat shrink it and your done.

I just re-read z-ya's post and I think that is a very good idea as long as you put the solder on the blade side of the crimp and not on the side were the wire comes into the crimp otherwise you have the problem of creating a stress point in the wire.

Dragonfly

August 26, 2005

I have a book about automotive electronics that talks about installing aftermaket wiring kits, making your own harness etc. one of the important things that he mentioned in the book that stuck in my mind was that you should not use solder to join wire to wire (such as connecting a wiring harness to a pigtail), the book says you should use a high quality crimp connector. The book also pointed out that if you look at the factory harness you will see that any time you have a wire to wire connection it will be crimped not soldered. I found this to be true in my factory wiring harness in my 72' 240. The reason for using a crimp rather than solder is because the crimp allows the wire to retain its flexibility while a solder joint becomes very rigid and can easily break strands of the wire at the end of the solder joint which has now become a stress point in the wiring.

If you stick with high quality crimp connectors and use heat shrink over the ends (or the whole thing if it is a butt connector) as insulation and a strain relief you should have many years of trouble free wiring in your car.

Dragonfly

August 16, 2005

When you upgrade your oil pump to the turbo one you are increasing the volume of oil more than the pressure. Changing the spring will increase the pressure on any Nissan oil pump but only the "turbo" pump has the increased volume that you are looking for with the upgrade.

Remember that oil pressure above what the engine needs is nothing more than un-needed drag on the engine and excess stress on the oil pump shaft.

Dragonfly

April 11, 2005

Wal280Z I drew the entire wiring diagram in Auto CAD as a project when I was in college, so the drawing is not a scan or a trace-over. BTW I got your email and I sent you the drawing.

Dragonfly

April 10, 2005

Send me an email milezgray@yahoo.com and I will send you an Auto CAD .dwf drawing of the entire 260Z wiring diagram. I will also send you a link to were you can download (from Autodesk) a free .dwf viewer which will allow you to view the drawing, zoom in and out (with very little loss of resolution) and print the drawing to any printer or plotter.

The drawing itself is scaled 1 to 1 so if it is plotted out full size on a plotter it will measure 3 feet wide by 9 feet long... that makes it fairly easy to trace out a circuit.

It may be a day or two before I can send it to you though.

Dragonfly

April 9, 2005

You were asking about using two Felpro gaskets with the Felpro cooper shim in-between, well that is exactly what I have on mine. As mentioned in one of the other replies you are going to have to take a close look at your timing chain, what you will find which is what happened to me is that the timing chain is a little to short. What I did to remedy that problem was to insure that no shims were being used and to use my old chain guides and tensioner because they were worn enough to allow the chain to just fit. Here is the info on my engine.

cam: 270/270 .46 lift

head: P90 shaved till each chamber measured 50cc's

block: F54 de-burred, casting flash removed, all edges radiused

pistons: Arias forged flat tops, 356 grams each, full floating

rods: L24, race prepped, shot peened, balanced

Crank: LD28, wet magged, polished, balanced

Compression: 9.7:1 (run 89 octane California gas)

Timing: 18 deg. at idle, 35 deg. mechanical, all in by 2500 rpm's (no vacuum advance, phase manualy set and locked in place)

Head gasket(s): Felpro, cooper shim, Felpro **** NOTE**** if you are over-bored (like mine) spend ALL the time needed to get those gaskets lined up perferct around the bores because the gaskets are not made with the best of tolerances and if your piston even lightly touches the gasket you will be pulling it apart and replacing it reeeeaaaal soon (experiance speaking).

I have been running it like this for 3 years now (after replacing the head gaskets that were touching #5 piston) and I have not had any problems with it. I race this car on a regular basis and I drive it on the streets often enough to say it has been quite reliable. I agree with those before me that you are going to be hating it if you run anything higher than 10.5:1 compression, and IMHO if you would like to drive it just a little more often try to lower the compression to somewhere between 9.5:1 and 10:1.

Dragonfly

September 13, 2004

Forgot to mention... they also provided food and drink, and in the passenger seat of each of the CTS-V's was a professional driver/instructor who would give tips and advice as he felt neccesary. I got a "good job" from the instructor after pulling the Caddy back in line from the very short lived drift.

Dragonfly

September 13, 2004

Not only did I get to drive one (actualy I drove 4 of them), but it was on a autocross style course with a dragstrip start. It was less than a 1/4 mile because they didn't want people getting the cars over 100 mph.

This was an event sponsored by Cadillac to allow you to drive thier cars and the compitition to thier cars ie BMW, Mercedes, Lexus... This is the website http://www.drivesummit.com from there you would need to call the 800 number to get a registration number etc.

Now for my opinion of the car this is a Cadillac with the heart of a Vette and having driven a Z06 on a similar course I can say that yes the Vette will easily beat the Caddy but the Caddy will hold its own against nearly any production car on the market and it still has the comfort of a Cadillac. Out of 5 runs in 4 cars I managed to get one car sideways and it pulled right back in line almost instantly. I wish I could actualy afford one of those, that would make such an great commuter car.

Dragonfly

September 3, 2004

Here's the link that Blueovalz was talking about. http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm

I think that it is very possible that Pop N Wood is correct about the pad material being stuck to your rotors and that being your problem. As far as the mechanic saying the rotors are warped... did he/they take them off the car and measure them with a test indicator or did they test drive the car and say "yep there warped". If they only did a test drive they could easily mistake a 'bump' (brake pad residue) in the rotor as the rotor being warped.

Read the article from the link and you will learn how to check and clean up your rotors.

Dragonfly

September 3, 2004

Here is another exerpt, it is from Wednesday and is the results of some kids playing "ricky racer" in traffic. Remember these read from bottom to top.

Incident: 0490 Type: Possible Fatality Location: SB I5 JSO PALOMAR AIRPORT RD Zoom Map: 1126 6J Info as of: 9/2/2004 8:20:53 AM

ADDITIONAL DETAILS

6:38AM - VERY 23103, HIGH SPEED, LN CHANGES

12:32AM - PER DYNAMIC DETAIL ENTRY AT MIDNIGHT 06, IT WAS 1039 TO WESTERN THEY CAN RELEASE THESE VEHS

7:21PM - SENT TO 92-S5 VIA MDC FOR INFO/1039 S5 REG INFO

3:57PM - SIG ALERT CANCELED, TRAFFIC RETURNING TO NORMAL

3:04PM - SIG ALERT CONTINUES ON CAD #635

3:02PM - PER CT SENSORS, SB 5 TRAFFIC IS BACKED UP INTO CAMP PENDLETON

3:00PM - OFFICERS HAVE CLEARED THE SCENE

2:55PM - PER OFFICER AT THE SCENE, RACING WAS INVOLVED IN THIS COLLISION

2:54PM - 13X SIGN TK 1097 WB 78 JEO JEFFERSON, RS "ACCIDENT AHEAD PREPARE TO STOP"

2:58PM - WE HAVE RECEIVED SERVEAL MEDIA INQUIRIES ASKING IF THIS WAS RELATED TO VEHICLES RACING ON THE FREEWAY

2:45PM - PER D1, EB TO SB IS NOW OPEN

2:29PM -

2:29PM - THE SUSPECT VEHICLE WAS NOT DAMAGED, IT JUST CAUSED THE COLLISION

2:17PM - SUSPECT VEHICLE: SIMILAR TO HONDA CIVIC, LOWERED BODY, DARK OR PRIMERED BLUE GRAY, REAR SPOILER, ANYONE WITH INFO SHOULD CONTACT CHP DISPATCH

2:17PM -

2:03PM - PER B92-5, FOR CT SIGN TRK, TRAFFIC IS BACKED UP TO 78, MIGHT WANT TO MOVE NORTH

1:40PM - 1039 S&R TOW FOR EVIDENCE , ENRT

1:33PM - SIGN TRK 97 SB 5 JSO O SIDE ONR CD WITH "ACC AHD-PTS"

1:18PM - EB PALOMAR AIRPORT ROAD ONR TO SB 5 IS CLOSED

1:13PM - PLS ROLL EVIDENCE TOW 1185 TO CD

1:09PM - PER FD, DOUBLE 1144, PLS ROLL OMEGA

1:05PM - SIGN TRK ENRT FROM KEARNY MESA

12:56PM - 1039 SDPD

12:57PM - PAR ONR TO SB IS ALSO BLOCKED

12:56PM - #1 BLOCKED, PLS ISSUE SIGALERT

12:56PM - SIG ALERT ISSUED

12:56PM - POSS 1144, UPDATE MEDICS, 1039 --

12:51PM - 1039 RANCHO FD

12:50PM - LOOKS AS THOUGH THE VEH ROLLED AND NOW IS BACK ON ITS WHEELS

12:50PM - SOLO VEH IN CD , RED CRX, MAY BE A CEMENT TRK ALSO INVOLVED IN CD ALSO

Dragonfly

August 26, 2004

This is a link to the CHP incident page http://cad.chp.ca.gov/ from here you can pick just about any "large" city in California and see what is going on at that moment.

I check this site regularly before hitting the road so I know how bad I am going to get screwed.

Here is an excerpt I took this morning because I thought it was funny... Incident: 0257 Type: Hit and Run - No Injuries Location: SB I15 JNO VALLEY PKWY Zoom Map: 1129 4G Info as of: 8/26/2004 8:38:46 AM

ADDITIONAL DETAILS

8:08AM - PER RP ANOTHER PTY STOPPED, CLAIMS SHE SEES THIS MC DRIVER DO THIS ALOT

8:08AM - RP IN WHI FORD EXPLORER, MC USED HIS HAND TO BREAK HER WINDOW

8:07AM - PER RP CHANGED LN, MC HIT HER WINDOW

These things read from bottom to top. Oh yea I ride a motorcycle to and from work and although that was not me there have been many times I have wanted to do that.

RP= reporting party

MC= motor cycle

LN= lane

etc...

Dragonfly

August 26, 2004

What 2126 was talking about I call a 'pack mentality', most people do it without even realizing it, that of course brings us back to the root of the problem of the fact that most drivers are completely un-aware of anything that has to do with driving.

I'm not going to say anymore or I will get myself all worked up...

Dragonfly

August 26, 2004

I used to have a ZX-R wing on my 240Z but when I got my carbon fiber hatch the wing came off. It sold for $100 about a week later. Here are a couple of pictures where you can see the wing although not real well...

By the way my wife found that wing in the wrecking yard when I took her with me... she wanted to do some treasure hunting for the car.

I don't know why the pictures are not coming up but here are the links http://hybridz.org/nuke/modules.php?op=modload&name=coppermine&file=displayimage&album=lastup&cat=11963&pos=9 http://hybridz.org/nuke/modules.php?op=modload&name=coppermine&file=displayimage&album=lastup&cat=11963&pos=7

Dragonfly

August 5, 2004

I wouldn't go so far as to say that... The members of the club wanted to see the parts and we had our event coming up... It also turned out that racelegal was going to be having their last race and I did not want to miss it so the parts made an apperance there as well. So thats it (until something else comes up).

Dragonfly

August 5, 2004

Here are a few pics of my car with the hood and hatch (they are still in primer).

Dragonfly

August 3, 2004

I like the way your valve cover came out and I also like the way WigenOut-S30's looks (BTW thats the same valve cover I have). I do have a concern though and that is that neither of you said anything about using a primer on the valve cover before painting. I can tell you from personal experiance that if you did a very good prep job but no primer the paint on the valve cover will last about 2 or 3 years then start to flake off, if any contaminants were left on the aluminum the paint will flake off sooner.

It is very important when painting aluminum that you use a compatable (with your paint) aluminum etching primer prior to painting. I was not a happy camper when my beautiful black wrinkle paint started to flake off my valve cover. I painted mine right this time but used a "hammered" paint instead of a wrinkle paint this time.

Dragonfly

July 28, 2004

The parts made by John (Beta Motorsports) are intended to be pinned, they have no mounting points for hinges etc. The hood made by Les (Classic Datsun) http://www.classicdatsun.com/new/carbonfiberhood.html is made as a direct bolt on replacement for your stock hood. Both of these hoods are made with a very high attention to detail and they are both at the top of thier respective uses.

It is important to remember that 99.9% of the time you get what you pay for. If you want to go less expensive both of these guys also make very high quality fiberglass parts as well for much less money.

Dragonfly

July 27, 2004

Here is a link for you with some pictures and prices http://www.betamotorsports.com/products/index.html but if you think that $675 is to high... you might want to sit down. You should be aware that these are actual race parts and not some of the cheaply made "look at my hood" parts that you see on ricers.

As for the hood you where talking about I believe that is made By Les Canady of Classic Datsun, and if that is the case it is a very high quality hood as well but it is made for apperance and not as a race part, his hood weighs 17 lbs and can be attached to your hood hinges/springs and held down with your hood latch.

Dragonfly

July 27, 2004

I recieved the other day my new carbon fiber/nomex hood and carbon fiber rear hatch from Beta Motorsports (John C.) needless to say I am quite happy. My car is now 71 pounds lighter and no longer has the 280zxr wing on the back so the drag has been reduced as well. I don't have any pictures at this time but when I get some I will post them (no digital camera).

As far as the quality and craftsmanship on the parts I would have to say that I am very pleased. I personaly do not know much about carbon fiber besides what I have read, but I spent many years as a calibration tech and inspector in the aerospace industry so I feel qualified to say I got what I paid for and I am quite happy.

Thanks John.

Dragonfly

June 23, 2004

When a bone-head in an suv backed into my wifes Z, then admited guilt I was able to show the cost of replacement parts (which you have already done) so they just cut me a check for the total amount plus 3 day car rental. I went to the loacal wrecking yard cherry picked the parts I needed and made the repairs myself.

Since you could possibly get a door from people on here it may benifet you to try to just get a check from them and fix it yourself.

Dragonfly

June 23, 2004

Those metal support pieces are not going to cause you any problems and you can leave them in place (they're braces). But I was thinking exactly what Sean73 said "did you replace the side seals on the rear main cap?" it is important that they be replaced as they get abused pretty bad by the removal of the cap.

When those seals are replaced they should also get a thin film of oil, but it is also very important that the seal is pushed all the way down into the slot then the remainder cut off flush using a sharp razor blade, you then carefully drive the metal shim (that comes with the seals) between the seal and the bearing cap (the two small lips on the seal should face the block and the flat side of the seal should face the bearing cap).

I also use gasket sealer on the pan gasket where it meats the rear main cap and cap seals to help ensure no leakage.

Dragonfly

June 23, 2004

Nah I'm not trying to psych you out just telling you exactly how I prep for each of my runs, and trying to help you psych out your opponent although with runs like your pulling I don't think you need to worry about psyching them out.

Those were some impressive runs and I think as you practice you are going to find out how much you need to heat your tires and at what rpm you get your best launch at etc.

BTW since my dragstrip is a parking lot there is virtualy no traction off the line for anyone so it is very common at the racelegal drags (where I race) for people to do very long burnouts to help them get more grip on thier launch.

Dragonfly

June 22, 2004

I have no doubt that Scotty is correct about me overkilling my burnouts a little (or alot). What I have to try to keep in mind when I reply to a post like this is that I have a lot less horse power than most of the people on here. That is one of the reasons I need to keep my tires very wet while doing a burnout, the length of time I heat my tires has to do with intimidation as a lot of the cars I race are capable of beating me but when I can intimidate the driver... I do pull 1.9x 60ft times while most of my compitition pull 2.xx 60ft's, but I only run 8.9's in the 1/8th (my local track is a parking lot) at 75-76 mph.

One of these days I will have enough power in my car to allow me to have some of the same concerns as many of you guys but until then I am going to continue to psych-out who ever finds themselves lined up against me.

Dragonfly

June 22, 2004

I agree that you should check the oil pan bolts again... and again... etc. If you use a torque wrench and tighten them to the 5-7 ft/lbs as called out in the FSM you will find that by the time you get back to the first bolt it is no where near the correct torque. The reason is that the oil pan gasket compresses a lot. I would Highly Recomend that you use a torque wrench and tighten them again and keep on tightening them until you achieve a consistant 5-7 ft/lb reading on every bolt.

If you need to change your rear main seal again the best way (you will hate this part) is with the crank out of the engine, the second best way is with the transmision out of the way and the rear bearing cap removed, and the worst way (most common) is rip the old one out and hammer the new one in place then cross your fingers and hope you did not damage it.

However you decide to do it be sure to put a thin film of oil on both the inner and outer side of the seal (inner contacts the crank shaft and outer contacts the block and bearing cap), think of this film of oil just like the one you put on the seal of your oil filter when you change it.

A quote from one of my engine building books "if the engine is for racing any oil leak on the exterior is un-acceptable". You may not consider your engine a race engine but if you don't want a trail of yuck all down teh underside of your car you will get that taken care of.

Dragonfly

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Posts posted by Dragonfly