Dragonfly
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Posts posted by Dragonfly
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Bad news Tom, the hinges will line up and the doors are physicaly the same size but the latching mechanism is different. I have seen people change the latching mechanism but it seemed to me to be somewhat labor intinsive and not worth the effort. Also the 280 doors weigh about 40lbs each more than the 240 doors.
Dragonfly
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That little "half a track" will be going on again this Friday night (12-6) and the guy with the 350Z said he is going to be there again. I get the feeling he will beat me this time as I know he has a place by his house were he can practice his launches.
I'm not to worried about it though because he is going to grow complacent very quickly then drop a load in his pants when I get the stroker back in the car and stomp him. The only reason I am racing with my spare engine is to practice my reaction times and work on making more accurate and smoother shifts.
Anyone in the San Diego area who wants to come out and play is more than welcome.
Dragonfly
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When I saw those flares on Monday the first thing I thought was "wow those are nice" "I would love to find a set of those flares". Later Monday eavining I got a phone call from a friend of mine in the San Diego Z club who asked if I was still looking for some fender flares, I said yes and he told me he had some flares and other fiberglass parts from his brother and he would bring them to Tuesday nights meeting for me to look at.
Last night when he opened up the back of his truck I almost had a heart attack, sitting in front of me was a hood, front air dam, complete L & R front fenders, 2 L front flares (exactly like in the picture), 1 R front flare, and 1 R rear flare. None of these parts has ever been on a car, also he told me he is sure he knows where the missing R front and rear flares are as well as the 2 missing L rear flares. The total package when he finds the other parts will be 2 complete sets of the flares pictured by Jumbo240Z, a hood, full front fenders and an air dam all for a price less than any single item mentioned would cost new.
Dragonfly
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The charcoal canister is part of your fuel ventilation system, if you remove it from the system you will more than likely get a raw fuel smell from under the hood of the car.
If you don't like the way it looks your best bet is to plumb the line labeled "tank" to your air filter so the vapors are drawn into your engine rather than floating around in the engine compartment.
Dragonfly
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David, you have mail.
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Probably not as effective but here is what a friend of mine did with his Z. He bought the offset bushings from Motorsport that allow you to adjust your camber and installed them to lower his pivot point rather than change the camber (he has a camber plate that allows him to set his camber correctly).
Dragonfly
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David I would like to suggest that you "French" the rear side marker lights. I have some pictures of mine but I don't have any way other than email to show them. If you would like to see them give me an email address or if someone else would like to post them I will email them to whomever.
Dragonfly
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Good luck with the insurance thing. What I would suggest is try to gather as many reciepts as possible, then get a copy of the Motorsport catalauge and go through it and highlite all the things in it that would require replacement on your car, if at all possible find an auto shop who will be willing to appear in court with you or at least sign an official appraisal of the labor cost. I have found that the insurance companies back peddle pretty quickly when they see you have done your homework and have documentation to back it up. Make extra sure you fully understand what is required on any and all documentation you intend to submit in court.
Also I would like to wish you the best of luck and health to your mom.
Dragonfly
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John I'm glad to see you were able to find a replacement car. My recomendation is to do the body work, undercarrage, and engine bay before installing any of the parts from your car. When you put the engine in you can always do it with the fenders etc. off the car.
Remember it is always easier to work on something when there is nothing else in the way than working around stuff to get to what would have been easy to reach.
BTW welcome to HybridZ.
Dragonfly
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The procedure I outlined will work for any vehicle that has pickup coil in the distributor. If the problem is only with the tach and you are not having trouble with miss firing, bogging, etc. the problem is probably in your tach or the wiring to it. A bad pickup coil will cause erattic tach behavior but will also cause erratic missing, bogging, engine dieing while idling, and other various ignition related problems.
An MSD uses the same pickup coil that your stock ignition system uses so the procedure is the same.
Dragonfly
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There is a guy on here who is also named Miles and uses his name in his handle, I remember seeing the post you are talking about, but we are two different people. I have to admit that when I see him post it throws me for a loop at first then I'm like "oh yea thats the Miles with the V8 Z".
Dragonfly
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TomahawkZ I wish I had a Griffin radiator, what I have is an aluminum radiator from a Fiero, for both upper and lower hoses I had to use a generic hose (corigated with spring inside) and hand shape it to fit. You can buy the generic hose in almost any length you want and almost any diameter you want.
Dragonfly
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Well heres my 2c worth. Next time you take a look at an intake/exhaust manifold gasket look at the shape of the exhaust ports on the gasket. They are a funny diamond shape, the reason for that is so thay can make one gasket that fits round or square port exhaust.
By using one of these gaskets (as far as I know they are all made like that now) you can easily mix square and round exhaust heads and manifolds. You will not get a quality port matched flow but it will not leak on you either. At this time with my spare engine in my car I have my square tube headers on a p79 head with round exhaust ports and no leaks, as far as how much power you may loose doing this take a look at my post about racing the 350Z to see my 1/8 mile times with this bone stock engine.
Dragonfly
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Sounds like your pickup coil inside your distributer may be going bad, here is how to test it and find out.
Take off your distributer cap and pull the rotor off, then locate the connecter beside your distributor where the wires connect to the distributor. Disconnect the wires at the connection, using an ohm meter check the resistance of the wires coming out of the distributor, right this number down. With the ohm meter still connected use a halogen work light (or any other hot lamp) and heat up the top portion of your distributer and watch to see if your resistance changes, then after the thing is hot tap on the side of the distributer with a rubber mallet or something similar that will not damage your distributor, again watch for a change in resistance. If you see any eratic or obvious changes in resistance your pickup coil is bad and needs to be changed.
Changing the pickup coil can be done yourself but it is not a job for the mechanicaly timid. If this is your problem it will only get worse and your car will start to die on you for no apparent reason, what is even worse is when you take it in to a mechanic they will not be able to find the problem and will probably just replace your entire distributor and charge you an arm and a leg for all there trouble shooting time.
Good luck and if that is the problem and you would like more details on fixing it yourself just let me know.
Dragonfly
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I have to agree, he started pulling on me very hard in 3rd and would have had a clear view of my headlights by the time we passed the 1/4 mile mark. I was actualy there to practice my reaction times, now I really want to get my stroker back together so I can beat him with my car and not experiance.
Dragonfly
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I was at the Racelegal drags on Friday night and a guy showed up in a 350Z, I managed to get the chance to run against him 4 times. There are a few things I have to sy before I post the runs: This was the first time the 350Z owner has ever drag raced and I was running my spare engine (bone stock L28).
LEFT LANE RIGHT LANE
5163 Entry # 5341
WINNER
0.00 --------------- Index -------------0.00
0.554 --------------- Reaction------- 0.494
2.196 --------------- 60 ft ------- 2.397
70.98 --------------- MPH ------- 76.14
9.770 --------------- ET ------- 9.737
First ------- 0.093
RED
LEFT LANE RIGHT LANE
5163 Entry # 5341
WINNER
0.00 --------------- Index ------- 0.00
0.500 --------------- Reaction------- 0.681
2.297 --------------- 60 ft ------- 2.424
71.09 --------------- MPH ------- 74.87
9.811 --------------- ET ------- 9.882
0.252 --------------- First
LEFT LANE RIGHT LANE
5163 Entry # 5341
WINNER
0.00 --------------- Index ------- 0.00
0.442 --------------- Reaction------- 0.720
2.268 --------------- 60 ft ------- 2.356
70.98 --------------- MPH ------- 74.74
9.830 --------------- ET ------- 9.952
0.400 --------------- First
RED
LEFT LANE RIGHT LANE
5163 Entry # 5341
WINNER
0.00 --------------- Index ------- 0.00
0.582 --------------- Reaction------- 0.670
2.217 --------------- 60 ft ------- 2.390
71.09 --------------- MPH ------- 75.12
9.758 --------------- ET ------- 9.804
0.134 --------------- First
I am # 5163 and the 350Z is # 5341. BTW we were both running street tires.
Dragonfly
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Just my opinion here but if you are thinking about taking that route I would follow JeffP or Zgad and build a turbo stroker. If you are going to start from scratch anyway and you are going to use an sds or similar system why not shoot for the top of the ladder instead of the middle.
BTW the F54 is the correct block.
Dragonfly
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In my stroker I am running an aluminum radiator from a Fiero, I am also running the Fiero fan which just happens to be a two speed fan.
The radiator is NOT a direct bolt in but it is not difficult either. If you decide to go this route make sure to find a Fiero with an all aluminum radiator (and plastic side tanks) not the combination brass/aluminum with brass side tanks. Get the radiator, complete upper support, fan (if you want to go that route), and the rubber radiator mounts from the lower support.
I made my own lower support and I modified the upper support to allow me to bolt it into the car, on the fan I trimmed down the plastic on the sides so it would fit closer to the radiator to allow the minimal clearance I have between the fan and the water pump, I also drilled two holes in the top of the radiator support so I could bolt the fan directly to the radiator.
All the above may seem a little confusing but with pictures it would make more since, unfortuanetely I do not have a digital camera or a place to put the pictures even if I had them, but if you decide you want to try this set up let me know and I will give you all the help and details I can.
Dragonfly
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Tim at this time my plans are to put my spare engine in, repair the stroker and make a couple of changes to bump up the power a little, seat the new rings, get a dyno pull or two then put it up for sale to help finance the V8 swap.
I would have to say that unless 1fixer1 buys all my parts before I make the repairs I would be interested in doing some trading with you. You are correct about the transmission, not only do I want an overdrive I would also prefer to run a T56 or at least a 5spd if I just can't find a reasonably priced T56.
By Monday (11-11-02) morning the repairs will start on the stroker and at that time I will no longer be willing to sell parts, it will either be all or nothing.
Dragonfly
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1fixer1 if you would like to talk me out of the parts before I do the repairs send me an email no later than Friday and we will talk about what I have and how much I want.
Since you are local (to me) there is a chance that you may have seen my car before. If you have made it down to the racelegal races at Qualcomm I have raced nearly every time they were open for most of the year running this engine. I am also the VP of the Z Club of San Diego so if you have ever seen a large group of Z's cruising by I would have most likely been in the pack.
My Z is a white 72' with black hood vents and inspection covers, black type "R" whale tale, black air dam that is aprox. 3" above the road, and very large Centerline wheels. The car also has Dragonfly written of each side and a hand painted graphic on the power bulge on the hood.
I can be contacted through this forum or you can go to www.zcsd.org and look under the club officers section.
Dragonfly
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Well Tim now that you mention it... I was thinking almost exactly what you just said. I am going to get the engine running again, get a dyno sheet on it and put it up for sale to try to recoup some money then go V8.
Since you have a stock pile of sbc stuff laying around you may have just saved me some shopping time. Do you happen to have the JTR manual laying around as well?
I have a spare (bone stock) L28 in back that I am going to put in the car until I get the stroker back on its feet then I will start working on the sbc.
Dragonfly
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My little problem I had with oil fouling on #4 cylinder just became much much worse. I pulled the head and took it into the machine shop and the owner said it looked like #4 piston contacted the head
he told me when I got home to see if there were indications on the piston of contact.Upon inspection of the piston (which was at BDC) I found evidence of contact but I also found two perfectly matched and radiused grooves cut 1/8" into the cylinder wall
thats when I realized that my circlip on my full floating (damn expensive) forged piston broke and allowed the wrist pin to do some custom machining into my cylinder wall.My delima is that I have 3K into this stroker and this is going to cost me aprox. $700 in parts, labor, repair work etc. and of course there is no way of regaining these expenditures. If I decide to go V8 then I need to get the engine, transmission, JTR manual, and any number of small misc. stuff to put it all together and get it on the road. This is where I need profesional help... are there any shrinks on the board
?Dragonfly
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I am running a lightened flywheel, my engine is a 3.0L stroker and I had the stock flywheel lightened to 16lbs from 24lbs. For me this has been very good for the street and on the track.
The primary thing about going overly light is that your idle will suffer and taking off from a stop can be tricky, remember your flywheel is designed to balance the energy created by cumbustion and keep the engine rotating steadily at low rpms.
Dragonfly
he told me when I got home to see if there were indications on the piston of contact.
thats when I realized that my circlip on my full floating (damn expensive) forged piston broke 
and allowed the wrist pin to do some custom machining into my cylinder wall.
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DOOR NIGHTMARE! - in need of some assistance
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
The doors from a 260 and 240 are completely interchangeable and if you have access to 260 doors they should work fine for you.
Dragonfly