Dragonfly
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Posts posted by Dragonfly
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Opinion again here but since you say it is being used to hold the hard line where the hose and hard line come together I would in that case leave it there. The reason is because even though the hard line is ridged it is going to be flexing somewhere at the other end because it is no longer supported, that means sooner or later you are going to get a fatigue crack in your hard line
and that would be bad.Dragonfly
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I have not used that brake system but here are my thoughts. If you are not using the mount, and you have no intention of going back to disk brakes... what do you need to keep the mount on there for?
Dragonfly
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I like the way you think, but I have to do it the hard way first, it's just in my nature.
Dragonfly
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OK I'm convinced, but now I have to be sure to be do a good enough job that people will be impressed (like the one in the picture).
Dragonfly
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Well Tim I am a glutton for punishment... but if that thing starts to get the best of me it will end up with only the bellhousing painted.
My real concern is the paint not allowing the transmission case to disipate heat well enough. As far as painting something that no one will ever see... well that is practice for me to get my prep and attention to detail skills prior to painting anything that can be seen.
Dragonfly
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I am doing some work on my car which will include pulling the drive train so I started thinking "well on American Hot Rod (on Discovery Channel) they always prep and paint the transmissions before they put them in the cars maybe I should try it as well".
I have noticed that it is always automatic transmissions that they paint and mine is a manual (BW T-5). So I would like some comments and thoughts on this.
Dragonfly
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I have an electric water pump on my car that is turned on and off manualy, I forgot to turn it back on after stopping to meet some club members and I got on the freeway... a few miles down the road I notice steam coming out of the front of my car, I turn on the water pump look at the temp gage and it is maxed. I pulled over shut off the engine left the water pump and fan on poured some cool water over the top (not into) of the radiator to help cool things down. When the gage read normal I headed out to the Autocross with the other members and raced the crap out of my car, that was over a year ago and no problems whatsoever.
As for the fan belt try taking a perminant marker and painting the row (v-groove of pully) of each pully the belt travels across then run the engine and see if the ink is only removed from one side of any pully and not the other, if you have belt alignment issues that will find them.
That belt is cheap so I always keep a spare (new one) with my tools in my car.
Dragonfly
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At the last ZCSD dyno day the majority of stock L series Z's put down from 110 to 125 rwhp, so I would agree that the numbers you got are quite good for bone stock.
Dragonfly
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I was looking at my latest email from Summit and they have a virtual car show (as well as a real one) where anyone who would like to enter there car can for free. I was looking at the cars that are entered and I saw only one Z and it was a very stock looking 50th AE so I decided to put a pic of my car in and give you guys a link to the entry form so if anyone here would like to put a pic of your own hybridz in this virtual car show you can.
Here is the link http://www.summitracing.com/vshow/entry.asp, there is a link in the page so you can see the cars that have been submitted and you can also vote for your favorite.
Dragonfly
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Ivan, the reason I said "serious engine" is because you went to the effort of buying ARP studs in the first place... There is a book called "Engineer to Win" that was written by Carol Smith (you can find this book in almost any Barnes and Noble) the book goes into amazing detail of what can happen to a stressed metal part that has a scratch in it, there are a lot of good photos as well.
A story of what happened to me is I tried to save $15 by using "spiroloks" on my new engine instead of "wireloks" the results of that savings was that one of the spiroloks came out and allowed my wrist pin to score my cylinder wall. The cost was $1000 to repair the damage, replace the damaged parts, and purchase the wireloks with new wrist pins. I now have a $3000 engine in my car that cost $4000.
The lesson here is don't try to save a buck now to find it will cost you many times more later.
Dragonfly
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Replace the scratched stud, it sounds like you are building a pretty serious engine and you don't want to build it again because you decided to save a buck and ignore an oops.
As far as my opinion on the stud issue I agree that you probably created hydraulic pressure in the hole. My suggestion is to get some rest, then when you are fresh go back out take a new clean rag (t-shirt or some other thin cotton rag) then use a screw driver to push the rag into each of the holes and let the rag soak up any liquid that may be in there.
Dragonfly
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Sounds to me like you don't have an engine problem so much as you have an electrical problem. The primary thing that electricity needs is a good path to follow, so I would recomend that you replace your battery cables (both of them), make sure you have full battery output while the starter is cranking then try again. There is the posibility that you may have gotten some condensation in your distributor which has the potential to kill your engine and make strange things happen.
If you can use a hair dryer on high heat to blow out the inside of your distributor cap, if the problem is beyond what I have mentioned let us know what you find and we can go from there.
Dragonfly
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Yep, I get the same thing... my situation is compounded a little because I am the President and the "tech guy" of ZCSD. but what I do is this:
Advice = free
Referals to relaible ASE certified mechanic = free
Work on family members car(s) = cost of parts
Work on friends and club members cars = cost of parts, nominal $$, and I make them do as much of the work as they are capable of with me acting more as an instructor.
Making them do the work also insures that when they find the
part that is going to cost a bundle they don't blame me and ask me to fix it for free since I was "working on thier car".Thank goodness I am not a computer geek as well...
Dragonfly
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Experiance is the key... this sounds like a very close race and that means "luck" will be on the side of experiance.
I have raced several DSM's (all wheel drive with 24-26 psi boost) and I can tell you that I beat most of them purely on experiance, but when a good driver gets behind the wheel
I see tail lights .Dragonfly
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Just a little more information for you... my car has 10" wide rims but they are 16's instead of 17's, I am running #300 X 12" springs and my tire diameter is 25.2". With this setup I have 1.5" clearance from the top of the tire to the fender (I don't know your offset so your measurements will most likely be different), I have 3/8" clearance between the bulge of the tire and the outer most portion of the spring. This setup gives you very little room for error so follow the advice of the others who have posted about taking accurate measurements.
As bad as this may sound to you now remember that after you get the car rolling you will need to insure that your suspension is correct and you are not relying on the quick fixes to keep your car under control while driving. Make sure to RECORD all the measurements that are being taken now so you can referance them when you are ready to complete the fender/suspension work.
I have no doubt that this will be nothing more than a lesson learned before long and you will be out driving that nice looking z and giving someone else advice on thier setup.
Dragonfly
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My first thought is that you cooked your starter and quite possibly a couple of relays in the process. The reason I say this is that when you put the neg. cable on the "lower" lug of the starter (z starter not ac delco) you created a direct short when you turned the key. Most likely the same is true with an ac delco. The only thing the black and yellow wire does is provide enough juice to trigger your selinoid everything else is handled by your battery cables.
Since you are still using what sounds like the stock wiring there is a very good chance that the "interlock" relay is bad or fried, when the interlock relay does not work all you hear is a single click when you turn the key then nothing. The best way to remidey the problem is to remove the interlock relay and run a new 10 gage wire from your key switch to the blade on the starter.
Good luck
Dragonfly
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Jonas, like John C. said "go for it" but I would like to recomend that you get some books on aerodynamics and do some reading then since you live in Huntington Beach you are close enough to contact Group Z about "helping" (start as a gopher or whatever) Andy with his record setting 2+2. Andy is the guy who owns the car John mentioned earlier in this thread.
After spending some time with the guys who are pushing the envolope for top speed on Z's then you will be far closer to realizing your own goals. One more very important thing is you better have a truly SAFE cage in any car traveling at those speeds.
Good luck on your quest.
Dragonfly
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Well I figured out where my response dissapered to... I had made my above response for the guy who was asking about removing his front sway bar for better launches.
Now what concerns me is was it me or was it the computer??? Whatever, sorry about the wrong response in this post.
Dragonfly
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Just to let you know the fron sway bar will not do anything for your launch (installed or not) so I would'nt mess with it. My car has the fron bar on it and the back bar removed and I pull mid to low 1.9 second 60 foot times, but I am also using drag radials at 12 psi. In my opinion your going to be much better off using the proper tire than messing with your sway bars.
Dragonfly
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I have not run the car in the 1/4 so I don't know what its Q.M. times would be. The tires hook up well enough that they knocked .4 seconds off my 1/8 mile time.
I did only put the races that I won but on the other hand I won 9 of the 10 races that I ran, the only one I lost was a mustang that ran 8.5 seconds at 88 mph and the video was similar to the first one (kinda hard to see) so I decided to leave it out.
BTW my best run was 9.0xx seconds at 76.xx mph. I think with a few more runs on these tires I should get into the very high 8's as I was knocking several houndreths of a second off each run.
Dragonfly
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Ok thats weird... I tried the link and got an error also but when I pulled it up the long way (through the website) it came up fine. I will try it again and see if it works this time http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4289844391 if it doesn't work try a copy and paiste.
Dragonfly
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Last Thursday I went to the racelegal 1/8 mile drags with my new Nitto 555 drag radials, a friend of mine took video of the races so I thought I would share them. Here is a link to the mpegs http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4289844391, this is on Imagestation and it requires that you be a member in order to view. If anyone would like to host these in an esier to access environment please let me know and I will get the mpegs to you.
Dragonfly
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The best hiding place is in plane sight... with my car I have the switch in plane sight but you would never know it was a switch. As an example in my 260 (which I sent to the scrap yard after a long hard life) I put a small switch inside heater/ac panel and I used the ac on/off lever to toggle the switch on and off, since my car had the ac removed this system worked great.
Now with that example of how to disguise a switch its time for you to let your imagination run wild.
Dragonfly
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Dambro do you have access to Auto CAD? The reason I am asking is because when I was in college as a project I drew in Auto CAD the complete wiring diagram for an early 260Z, on the computer it is in color but I also labeled all the wires with the correct colors in about twice as many places as the FSM did. The drawing I made is (when plotted out full size) 9 feet long by 3 feet wide and if you have access to a color plotter you can have a very easy to read color diagram to hang on your wall.
If you would like me to email the CAD drawing to you let me know and also what version of CAD would you would like it in.
Dragonfly
and that would be bad.
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Track tonight, with Drag Radials...
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
On my car I run 275/50/15 nitto 555dr's and I have found that for them to get a really good hook I need to spin them up for about 10 to 15 seconds with plenty of water on them (in the water box).
Let the other guy heat his tires first then heat yours after he starts, he whould be staged as you finish your burnout, then you stage last so your tires are still as hot as possible. You will also find that you need to increase your launch rpm or you will bog the engine because those tires are going to grab and not spin like your street tires.
Dragonfly