Dragonfly
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Posts posted by Dragonfly
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Last night I pulled the springs off the valves for #4 cyl. and the seals were fine, what I found though is that the valve guide for the exhaust valve is worn out and the valve has enough movement that I can easily feel it.
Looks like the head is going to have to come off even though I had hoped not.
Dragonfly
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Mike I hope you are correct with your assesment, I will check them tonight when I get home. Demidion I hope you are incorrect but if the simpler solutions do not pan out I will start checking the ones I don't want to hear.
Dragonfly
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I pulled my spark plugs the other day and all of them looked good except #4 which appeared to be oil fouled. I ran a static compression test and #4 was 165#'s while the others varied from 173-179#'s. I do not have a leak down tester so I put #4 to TDC and pressurized it to 70psi and I could hear air escaping past the rings (none out of the intake or exhaust).
I squirted oil into #4 and checked the compression again and it still read 165, I checked three more times and each time it read 165. I do not understand how I can hear air getting past the rings but adding oil did not raise the compression, am I missing something?
Dragonfly
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The 3 screw carbs are the newer style and the reason for the sleave being pressed in is to remove an adjustment that should never be made by a novice. Every thing about the 3 screw carbs that are different from the 4 screw are there to make the carb more user friendly, so as long as yours are not hitting the needle against the jet they are going to be easier to set up and tune.
The flat thumb wheel with the stops are so the mechanic who has never seen those carbs before can not screw up the settings as bad, with the thick thumb screw you can turn it down until the jet falls out the bottom.
It usualy takes me about 20 to 30 minutes to undo the 3 hours of adjusting some one else has done to a set of SU's then less than 10 minutes to properly adjust them using a color tune and a flow gage (manometer). Since you have two sets the set with the best (condition) throttle shafts will be the set that runs the best.
Dragonfly
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The value of the 3 screw carbs vs the 4 screw carbs is negligable, the differance between the two which is why ZTherapy will not let you exchange 3 screw for 4 screw and vice versa is that on the 4 screw the brass sleave that holds the jet in place is threaded and therefore adjustable while the 3 screw is pressed into place and can not be adjusted.
I talked to Scott Brunning in person at length about this and he explained to me that the pressed in sleave will sometimes be pressed in at an angle (not perpendicular to the bridge) which causes the jet and the needle to come into contact with each other creating abnormal wear and poor behavior.
My personal recomendation is that if you have the 3 screw carbs pull the piston and check the needle to see if it has been rubbing on the jet, if it has and they are ZTherapy carbs you can exchange them.
Dragonfly
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Yes I have heard of the R190 and I personally do not know much about them but I would highly recomend that you contact Les Cannaday at http://www.classicdatsun.com/. Les purchased all of the spare parts that Nissan had for the R190's not to long ago and if you ever need anything for that diff he is the guy to talk to.
Dragonfly
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As far as I know if you are ever caught with a deliberate igniting device in your exhaust system (ie. a spark plug) it is a huge fine and possible loss of the vehicle.
As far as the race cars putting flames out the exhaust I believe (but could be wrong) that the cars run a rich fuel mixture to get more top end power and when they let off the accelerator raw fuel is pulled through the engine then ignites in the very hot exhaust system causing those really awsome flames. Most of the rest of us only get enough fuel in the exhaust to cause a backfire but no flames.
Dragonfly
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Mike you may want to look into converting your steering to rack and pinion from a 79' zx, I'm not sure how much work it will be as most people are doing the opposite and getting rid of the rack and pinion in favor of the power steering.
As for the inside of the car what can go but you may miss more than your AC is you speakers, if you feel you still need some tunes get some little cheapies and put those big boat anchors you have into your SUV. If you have roadside assistance you can dump your jack and spare for a can of fix-a-flat. Beyond that you are starting to get as extreme as me which may make your car a little uncomfortable to drive every day.
Dragonfly
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Most NOS systems after being charged (bottle open) use a micro switch either below the gas peddle or on the throttle linkage which activates the selinoids at wot when dry reving his engine he hit the switch and caused the car to severly over rev. I am sure that on top of putting the NOS on the car he also changed a chip which defeated any governer or rev limmiter that may have been on the car.
Dragonfly
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I was at the race legal races in San Diego the other night when these two mustangs pulled into the burnout box. Both of these guys started dry reving their cars, well one of the cars (an 02' Saleen) pushed the gas a little to far and activated his NOS, according to the track announcer the hood of the car bulged out so far he thought it was going to pop open. After they burned off all the oil they swept up a pretty decent size pile of iron and aluminum some of which looked like it may have been piston parts.
I felt sorry for the guy until I realized that he was the guy in line who was being a complete obnoxious ass to everyone within earshot.
Dragonfly
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Jt1 I am not saying what you did with your drive shaft bolts is incorrect but I want to tell you what I was just reading last night. I am reading the book "Engineer to win" by Carrol Smith and in the chapter on bolts he says that the weakest part of a bolt is where the threads end at the shank and if the bolt is being used to fasten parts the shank should be shorter than the thickness of the part it is inserted through, this allows the bolt to exert its maximum clamping force. If the bolt is being used in a double shear application (which the drive shaft flange is) he says to make sure the shank goes all the way through then you add a hardened washer to torque the nut down to.
The other important thing he said was not to cut threads into the shank of a bolt as a die will tear the metal and create numerous stress risers that you can not see with the naked eye which greatly reduce the life expactancy of the bolt.
The reason I am going on about this is because it will not break untill you need it most ie that race you just bet your mortgage payment on or that semi you pulled out in front of so as not to be stuck behind him blah blah blah.
Dragonfly
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With my 72' I had to shorten the drive shaft by 1.25 inches. I also noticed that I was not able to use some of the tricks that I had read about for mounting the T5 which leads me to believe that each car is different just enough that you will have put it in and measure for your car and go from there. BTW a compitent drive shaft shop can shorten the turbo drive shaft at the ends between the end flange and the taper on the shaft, if a shop tells you they can't do that find a different shop.
Dragonfly
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Did you notice the fuzzy dice hanging from the rear view mirror? That poor car looks like it fell into a rice field and hit every grain of rice on its way out.
Dragonfly
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Hey Tim that Summit kit you have pictured is the kit that I used to relocate my battery into the spare tire well on my 72'. I have not had any problems with the gage of the wire they sent me, my car cranks over immidiately all my accesories power up just fine and I have not found any indication of the wire getting hot or over loaded.
Dragonfly
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My 72' is like Mike C's in that it has a captive nut rather than the ears for the mount. I had to make a mount for mine but it was very easy and inexpensive. I used 2 pieces of 6" long 2"x2" angle iron (3/8" thick), I put the tranny in place Marked where the holes needed to be and then drilled the holes in the angle iron. There are no isolation options like this and it is a bit noisier but that doesn't bother me.
BTW Bob I used your info on building your stroker as a referance and guide for building mine, thanks for being so detailed.
Dragonfly
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Consider this an informed comment, the new skylines will no longer be running the rb motor. The power plant for the newest generation of skylines will be a twin turboed version of the 3.5L v6 that is in the 350Z.
Dragonfly
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Don't bypass the valve it will cause you problems. The early Z's do have the valve also but instead of being on the fire wall it is in the back of the car just forward of the fuel tank.
Since you dont seem to mind opening the brake system go ahead and pull the proportioning valve and take it apart, you will be blown away by the amount of gunk and crud built up in it. Clean it up and put it back together and do the same thing with the brake light switch (the valve with the wire going into the top). You will find it makes a world of differance.
P.S. while you are at it flush that 20+ year old fluid out and replace it, you should flush your brake system about every two years plus or minus depending on your driving and the general environment you drive in.
Dragonfly
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As a very general statement there are two types of drivers idiots and morons.
Morons - people who are driving slower than you are ie as you pass them you say "look at that moron".
Idiots - people who drive faster than you ie as they pass you you say "did you just see that idiot".
Yes I am an idiot and I am forced to share the roads with morons.
BTW I agree with all the previos post whole heartedly.
Dragonfly
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Hey, I like the new car, it's to bad about the 280z but that is all part of life I guess. As for the discount you recive at the local Nissan delearships when you are a club member it is 20%, you also get 10% discounts at several shops and parts stores around town.
The Z Club would still love to have you as a member if you are interested feel free to send me an email, give me a call, or just show up at our next meeting. Our next meeting will be Sept. 3rd at 6:30pm at the Nissan Design center located at 9800 Campus Point Drive, La Jolla.
Dragonfly
(619) 589-6023
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I know that I have been waiting a long time to get some real numbers on my car and I believe a couple of people on here have been waiting as well.
The dyno informed me that I have a peak hp of 166.6 and a peak tq. of 169.2, since I don't have the chart in front of me I don't recall the rpms for the above numbers but what I do remember is that my torque was 157 at 2k rpm and climbed to 169 in the 6k rpm range. The numbers where a little lower than I had hoped for but the owner of the dyno shop was blown away by my torque curve and my surprisingly flat hp curve.
I also raced my car in the 1/8 on Friday night (dyno was Sat. morning) and my best time of the night was 9.42 with a 2.1 sec 60'. I think I may have to go to a taller rear diff because I just can not get traction of the line, most of my 60' times are in the 2.3 to 2.4 second range.
On the plus side of everything I learned that many of the spectators think my car is a V8 and I am starting to gain a reputation as someone to look out for.
I would realy appreciate some comments suggestions etc. from the others on here with regaurds to what I have and what can be done to improve my times.
Thanks
Dragonfly
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Yes you can bypass it, but I would recomend that in doing so you use the fuel vent system from the early 240Z's. The charcoal canister is a vent system for fuel vapors and is associated with fuel tank venting.
On the early 240Z's they used a small and simple valve system that runs the vapors together with the block vent vapors and into the air filter box. If you bypass it all together without using some other system you will end up with a raw fuel smell under the hood or vapor lock problems depending on how you bypass it.
Dragonfly
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I just put a T5 in my 72' 240 (about 2 weeks ago) and what I found is that no two cars are quite the same dimensionaly. What that means to you is that you are going to be without your car an extra day because you need to install the tranny put the drive shaft in then measure the distance from the u-joint to the face of the "turbo flange" on the diff. if the driveshaft is pushed all the way into the tranny subtract 3/4" from your measurement and make sure the driveshaft shop knows what referance points you used for measuring.
With mine I only needed it shortened by 1" so I was able to have the turbo drivshaft shortened and re-balanced. I also run the 3.9 rear diff. and although I have not run the car in the quarter I have pulled a 9.4 second 1/8 mile run with tires smoking through first.
Dragonfly
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I just ran across your post and if you have not taken your car somewhere yet I personaly would recomend Pacific Nissan (I have never had to use any of these places thank goodness). The reason for this recomendation is because Pacific Nissan is on very good terms with the Z club of San Diego and if you happen to be a member of the club you can also get a discount.
I wish you the best on this.
Dragonfly (Vice President Z club of San Diego)
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Last night I spent some time going through the FSM and I found the switch mentioned twice, once in an exploded view of the transmission with no info and again on the very last page of the body electrical section. In the body electrical section it did not tell you the location of the switch but it did tell you what color the wires are and how to test the switch for continuity.
Sometime in the next day or so I will have to put the car up on jack stands and see if I can find the elusive switch.
Tim... I'm back but I don't know how often I will be able to post. I have all kinds of stuff to say and talk about but I can only get away with the time on things that are more pertinant than the stuff I like to post in the "I'm tellin ya" section. BTW it makes me feel good to know that I was missed.
Dragonfly
Stumped... lookin' for advice/thoughts
in 6 Cylinder Z Forums
Posted
Yea its going to get everything cleaned up etc. it has already been ported and polished. To make a long story short the head should have had new guides also but they went into a head that was bad and I missed having them put into this head.
While I have it off I am going to have the head shaved a little to bump up my compression.
Dragonfly