Flexicoker

Does anyone know of any easy way to do this? I tried importing the .vex as a space delimited, and then saving the output portion of my spreadsheet as a space delimited .txt, and copying that into the .vex, but that didn't work. I'm trying to use excel to give me AFR and spark tables based on my VE table. I did one already for AFR's and it seemed to work pretty awesome.

In Tuner Studio, under the "Other Tuning" menu there is IAT based fuel correction, MS has all the same features, so its got to be there.

I've got a 225LPH external, maybe the gsl392, and it is freaking loud. I can hear it over the exhaust at idle. It seems like it got louder after it had been in the car for a week. I don't know if I just got a bad one, or if its due to something in the rest of my fuel system. Its getting a steady 12+ volts, but the feed and return lines go into the stock location/diameter bungs on a '73 (carburetor) tank.

gotcha! I thought you found a cheaper source for the real Recaro 1300's somewhere. I will probably have to start saving up for a pair of the Nurburgrings, or maybe the ST's... hmmm...

Where did you find prices for those Recaros? I looked around and the only ones I could find were on eBay out of a 911, asking $2500/set =/

=) Its a small world! One of these days I'll get a Taylor Race gearbox in my Z, for umm... testing purposes =)

I may be wrong here... but even if you had a low ramp angle Salisbury, if you had no pre-load, it seems like you would still be able to spin the inside rear if it gets light. It would just essentially have a higher bias ratio, and therefore be able to transmit more torque to the outside given the same inside tire load and applied torque as the ATB. If you lift the tire, you're in the same boat as the ATB, unless you're running enough preload. Is that right?

I think we can all agree here, that the ideal solution is to run a spool, a ton of caster, and just lift the inside rear in the air around the corner =) Hey, it works on karts. In my car, if I had the money, I would run a Quaife. My personal opinion is that it is currently the best design out there. I may eat my words if I can't keep the inside wheel from spinning, but thats going to have to wait until I have moneys. I will probably put a CLSD first, because they're easier to get ahold of and cheaper.

This is an article written by my boss at Taylor Race Engineering. We are the only US motorsports importer for Quaife products, so obviously we like selling Quaife differentials. However, I think this article is written very objectively, and Craig is a really smart guy. http://www.taylor-race.com/pdf/understanding_differentials.pdf The reason autocrossers may have trouble with an ATB is due to caster, not weight transfer. Weight transfer is roughly a function of lateral acceleration, CG height, and track width. The problem with autocrossing is that the turning radius is typically far tighter than that of a road course, so with any significant amount of caster, you're taking a ton of force out of the inside rear-outside front cross weight, which is effectively lifting the tire. We run a Quaife ATB in our Formula SAE car, and we do have to tune the suspension to keep the rear tire planted. Once that is taken care of, we don't have any problems. Of course, this is in a purpose built racecar with a CG near the wheel centerline...

I'm not sure if I agree with this entirely... I was under the impression that an ATB differential could bias torque up to its torque ratio, without significantly affecting differentiation, and therefore cause no power-on understeer. This was, in my opinion, its advantage over the CLSD. The tradeoff is that an ATB will support less of a bias ratio than a CLSD, and therefore will require a suspension setup that will keep the inside rear planted. On the other hand, the CLSD will support a much higher bias ratio, but at the expense of power-on understeer (or steady state understeer depending on the amount of pre-load), which requires a suspension tuned to allow steady-state oversteer to counteract. Mark treats the ATB as a high ramp angle/low to no preload CLSD, which I believe is incorrect. I could be mistake though...

If you want something that will hold the torque, last a long time, and offer smooth engagement... carbon-carbon is the way to go.. High initial expense, but in your case it could save you money in the long run because they last a really long time. Call my work: http://www.taylor-race.com They will find you something that can work, carbon-carbon or otherwise.

hahaha, I didn't pay attention to the whole race until the last 5 laps. That was nuts. go Hamilton!!!! Glock just looked like he couldn't acceleration out of that corner, he was a little sideways, I don't know what tires he had on. Vettel was hauling ass with the dry's on though!! And Massa does not look happy up on the podium!!!!

OOOH EMMMM GEEEEE http://www.pbase.com/slidevalve911rsr/myrsr_misc_stuff_recaro_seats http://www.classiccarseats.com/

Has anyone had any problems with these? http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=668

Dickeys

the FSAE V8 is from Western Washington http://dot.etec.wwu.edu/fsae/viking30.htm

I think the bent rod is bad news. That rod sees a ton of compression under braking and a bend like that is going to seriously increase the chances of it buckling under braking. You can try and straighten it yourself, but its probably a better idea to just find a straight one from a junkyard. It probably would be OK to run the bent rod, but my experience is when you catch something like that you should fix it, because you never know when it might fail, and its going to be bad if that fails and you're hauling ass.

SUCCESS!! I finally got around to buying a DB-9 to put in between the megasquirt and the USB adapter, and it worked flawlessly. Thanks Matt!

If its just a toe-link, it should already be loaded radially. Axial load on a spherical bearing is when the load is along the axis of hole in the ball, not the treads. Think about it this way, if you're force is pushing the ball against the race, thats radial load, and thats good. If your force is trying to push the ball out of the race, thats axially, and that is the incorrect way of loading a spherical bearing. Ok, Jon, I think I see what you're asking now. i'm looking at your picture on post #101. Your toe-link is going to load the bearings radially in either orientation. Your toe-link is a true "2-force member," which means that the link itself, is loaded axially. This is the application rod-ends are designed for. You're other outboard rod-end is going to be loaded axially on accel and braking, and radially under cornering, that rod-end is going to be taking all of your longitudinal force for that wheel. Now, your bearings are pretty huge, so they can probably handle that. I would recommend finding the actual load rating from the manufacturer. I was looking at the aurora website last night and some the axial load ratings were closer to 5% of the radial rating, FAG doesn't even give an axial spec, they just say don't load them that way.

I can't picture what you're describing, Jon. but if you've got a simple way of flipping the rod-end 90* so you can load them radially all the time, thats pretty awesome. I'd like to see a picture of what you've come up with.

Make sure you guys are looking at the axial load ratings for the rod-ends you're using. The bearings are loaded axially under accel and braking on most of your control arms, and the axial load rating is significantly lower than the radial load rating.

I'm sitting in my kinematics and dynamics class right now... "Design of Machinery. 4th ed." by Robert Norton has a good section on engine dynamics, and has an engine program that comes with the book. I would recommend a book such as this to do a real dynamic analysis before plopping down a few grand for a custom crank.

I doubt its the USB end... its tight in there. I will try using a straight through DB9 to move the adapter away, it does seem to freeze more often when I'm at higher RPM's... but i could be imagining it. Thanks!

Hey guys, megatune had been working flawlessly for a few weeks, I was able to take hour-long logs on my way to work and back, but now it won't run for more than a few minutes at a time before freezing. I tried Tunerstudio and the same thing is happening. I'm able to unplug the USB cable (serial-USB converter from DIY) and everything unfreezes, and I can usually plug it back in and it will work for a few more minutes. Any ideas? this is really frustrating. To my knowledge, nothing has changed from when it worked right, and everything is set to the same COM # and baud rate. I tried lowering the data rate with no success. Thanks -Eric

I was getting a really intermittent signal in megatune at first, all I did was clean the contacts on the rotor and cap, and it started working. weirdest thing ever, should have nothing to do with the VR