Flexicoker

Mechanical Engineering Intern at Taylor Race Engineering... need a Quaife adapted to an L-series? =) http://www.taylor-race.com/ Also an ME student at UTA -Eric

Hey! I've seen your car before. Are you in the Thurs/Fri run group at nationals?

When I measured my collar it was 29mm... that means to fit the clutchnet clutch I would need an even longer collar than is in that chart.

could the 2+2 have a 225mm clutch but with a taller pressure plate? Maybe thats the issue....

haha, I'm not sure if I'm ready to sell it yet, and when/if I do I'd like to get close to what I paid for it because I still would need to buy another, and its only driven a few miles, so its basically new. I learned a couple new things today though... according to the microfiche, '81-83 have the exact same throwout sleeve. The clutch net clutch, supposedly for an '83, has an installed height that matches the specs in the '82 service manual. However, the installed height of the stock one that is in the car (should be '81) does not match what the '82 service manual says. BUT, the microfiche says that '81-82 have the same PP, and that '83 has a different one. So now I'm really confused. I'm going to drive it with the stock clutch for now, but I do need to get this figured out so I can put a good clutch in.

haha, I know. That came up when I searched beforehand too. I sort of ignored it because everything was from the same car, and I assumed I ordered the clutch for the correct year. Assumption is the mother of all F-ups. Thanks for the help everyone

I figured it out! Trouble is... I'm incredibly stupid. I accidently ordered a clutch for an '83, my engine/tranny is from an '81... They have a different installed distance from the flywheel to the PP fingers. So now I have a barely used clutch that won't work, and I probably can't return. Commence hunt for an '82/'83 throwout collar!!

ok, problem is still unsolved. We grabbed the clutch fork with vice grips, and pulled it an extra 1/4" maybe to the end of its travel, still drags. Pulled the transmission. The installed height of the PP fingers is 1.366", within range according to the FSM. clutch fork has no visible cracks, and the throwout bearing is fine. What else could it be? The dragging is not that bad, you can still turn the driveshaft by hand... barely. But its enough to grind like madness going into reverse and make it hard to shift. We might put in the ancient clutch and PP that we took out of it and see what happens.

ya, I've tried pumping it. One thing I just remembered... when I first put installed the engine/tranny I had my dad go under the car and turn the driveshaft by hand so I could set the pedal position. So at that point it was not dragging, but the first time I drove it it was dragging. Also right after we bled it it worked for about 2 seconds, and then would grind going into reverse again. I'm going to go work on it in a bit, maybe I'll figure it out, I really don't want to have to yank the transmission.

clutch master and slave have been recently rebuilt with new seals, and don't show any signs of leaking, but it still might be worth it to try a new one. One thing I noticed though was that I can stick my finger into the slave cylinder and slowly push the piston back. I dont know if I should be able to do that or not. Does anyone know if the 280ZX and 240Z clutch masters are interchangeable and if they have the same bore size?

the throwout sleeve is also from the '81, I bought the engine tranny togethor out of a wrecked car. The only thing that has changed from stock is the surfacing done to the flywheel, the clutch, and the PP, and using the '73 hydraulic parts. Clutchnet says the clutch is for '73-'83, so its a possibility then that the clutchnet clutch is not actually for an '81.

I've got an L28 and 5-speed out of an '81 in my '73 Z. The flywheel, throwout bearing and clutch release fork are from the 280ZX, the flywheel has been surfaced, and installed with a sprung 6-puck and pressure plate from clutch net. The slave and master cylinders are from the 240. I just got it running for the first time the other day, and its hard to get into gear, and grinds going into reverse unless I force it in, however when its in gear the clutch doesn't really engage until its about 2/3 released. I'm about 99% its the clutch dragging. The slave cylinders from the 2 cars seem to be the same which leads me to believe the master cylinders must be different and I'm not getting enough travel. the pedal has been adjusted to get the maximum possible throw, and its been bled. Other scenarios: To much material was taken off the flywheel, or I got incorrect parts from clutch net. would the differences in the clutch masters be enough to cause this? and if so will the 280ZX version bolt up?

I put my IAT sensor where the cold start injector was, and I put my CLT sensor in the thermostat housing. I used a housing off of an L24 because it had a little more meat to tap. The car is running and everything seems ok, but it has not been on the road yet.

I solved that too... I had a poor ground and power supply for the LC-1 controller, and it was dicking everything up. Commence no-load tuning!!!

solved... I cleaned the contacts on my distriibutor cap and rotor. Whooda thunk? Now if I could just get megatune to stop freezing whenever the engine is running I could actually tune it.

yes, its got 12V at cranking. While cranking (and while not cranking) I can watch the display on my laptop and everything looks perfect, except for the RPM signal while cranking. all sensors read consistent and reasonable values.

I've got a problem with my megasquirt. About a week ago I hastily connected everything to make sure I had it wired right before going through the work of routing and trimming wires. It fired right up, first try. It would only stay running for 5 seconds or so, but that was enough for me to start cleaning up all the wiring. Now last night I got everything mounted and wired up and it wont start. It will sputter and catch a few times but won't stay running for more than a second. While cranking my RPM signal will be 0, then go up to 250, 100 or something, then 0 again, maybe spike to 7000 for an instant. I checked my connection at the relay board end, its good. I played with all of the megatune settings that look like they had something to do with the signal filtering and it seemed to improve sometimes, but it probably had nothing to do with what I was doing. I am running the shielded wire from DIY. I'm using the VR in a stock L28E distributor with the advance mechanisms disabled and firing the stock '73 coil. The only thing I changed since the first time it start was trimmed and routed the wires, pulled off some of the wiring and relays for the original electric fuel pump that no longer exists, removed the ballast resistor (I had it bypassed when it first started)... and I think thats it Any ideas? Its a MSII V3.0, with the most recent code. a datalog is attached OK, another thing I just thought of... I have the core of the shielded wire hooked to red on the VR, going to 'tach' on my relay board. I have the shielding soldered to green on the VR and going to TPS ground on the relay board. Should that be hooked up differently? datalog200808212136.zip

are you planning on heat treating after welding? In that case the weld alone should be fine. If you're not planning on heat treating afterwards... you need to. If you're making your own ARB, you don't have to make it out of spring steel. 4130 works great.

The NASCAR deal isn't a brake, its more of a pressure relief device: http://entertainment.howstuffworks.com/nascar-safety2.htm

Jon is right, force and mass are independent. If you ignore drag for a moment, more downforce is better. always. laying down the wing and getting less downfroce on the outside is doing nothing beneficial. Think about it this way... if you sit on the left side of the car, does right side lift up? You're going to get the anti-lift benefit for the inside tire regardless of how much downforce you're putting on the outside, unless for some reason the wings are mounted outside the wheelbase.

ya, laying down on the outside when in a corner is pretty counterproductive, not to mention the major efficiency loss by splitting the wing in half with no center endplate. they would have better results with a single wing that acts as a function of speed and acceleration, and would have to be darn sure that it wasn't going to lay down in the middle of a corner

I saw a new Scion today that looked like the same color. I wasn't able to find it on their website though.

think of it this way: Air has inertia, whenever you deflect the air, its going to react with an equal and opposite force. So if you deflect air upwards (radiator air exiting out the hood) then the air is going to push down on your car, downforce. Its not really that simple... but for this sort of case, it is that simple.

Did you piece together a 4.44 R160 and a the LSD from a 3.70?

The tendency of an ATB to behave as an open differential is a downside, but one that can easily be remedied by moving the roll stiffness distribution forward, with stiffer springs in the rear and stiffer ARB in the front for example. It's a compromise, but I think its a better compromise than setting up a car with inherent oversteer to counteract the understeer that a CLSD will induce. But it ultimatly boils down to driver preference and what will let him/her drive faster. As far as price goes, I've never seen the inside of a Tru-trak, so all I can say is that everything Quaife makes is top-notch. A lifetime warranty under racing conditions is pretty darn rare. Sometimes you get what you pay for.