Flexicoker

that is awesome, now I want to get some fiberglass bumpers and paint them up with this!

man, I had no idea the 2008 24 Hours of Lemans was so exciting... and I was THERE!!! hahaha 24 hours is a loooong race. There was also a show on Acura's LMP1 project, I was really hoping for a 3 way battle at Sebring but both Acuras had issues.

Clutch style LSD, 3.7 or 3.9 ratio. I need to find one ASAP, please let me know if you have anything or know where I can find one.

I can't find an option for that anywhere with my MSIIv3 2.888 code. Does it just take advance numbers from the timing table while its cranking? Recently when starting my car it will crank over, and then instead of firing it will sputter and make a very loud clang/grind from the starter. I'm thinking I have too much cranking advance and its causing the engine to kick over backwards sometimes. (exasperated by light flywheel)

wow, that is a well thought out system. What clutch disk material are you using? Is it OK on the street? If I did the math right, you're only running .024" piston to head clearance... is that right?

I bought the brake and fuel lines from them. Customer service was not great, quality was just ok. It took some tweaking to make the brake lines fit, and some cutting to make the fuel lines fit. I would buy them elsewhere or make my own if I were to do it again. If you're just doing the brake lines you'll probably be ok with their parts.

I wonder if anyone has found a way to replace the filler and neck with something more modern... so you can leave the filler in without having to hold it in place the whole time.

I haven't replaced my bulbs with LEDs yet, but I did switch to an electronic flasher to hopefully reduce the current through the blinker switch. I just went to auto-zone and found one. Its only 2 prong in an L shape. $5.99 I think, plug and play. If I keep burning up the contacts in my blinker switch then I will switch to LED bulbs. It looks like this one might fit: http://superbrightleds.com/specs/CF12ANL-01.html I just reached up under the dash, unplugged it, and carried it into the store with me to compare.

ok, I found the answer for the AFR table on my own, it seems haltech has a 3D target AFR map just like the megasquirt.

Yo, So I am hopefully about to be acquiring an E11v2, but probably just the ECU. I've been looking around and can't find anyone who lists just a flying lead harness, separate from the ECU. Anybody know where I should look? Also, megasquirt does a few things that I really like. flex-fuel, x-tau, and a separate AFR map. How does haltech handle these things? I think the AFR map might be covered by closed loop 02 for cruising and idle. I have yet to get x-tau nailed down properly (high RPM noise in the MAP signal triggering x-tau) but at lower RPM it works really awesome and more consistent then TPSdot transient enrichment. Would there be any way to hook up a GM flex fuel sensor to one of the spare inputs and have it add fuel that way? This page has some information about the signal from the flex fuel sensor: http://www.megamanual.com/flexfuel.htm Thanks! -Eric

I think your clutch is not disengaging all the way. I had the same problem (minus shaking) and it was because my clutch slave cylinder was leaking and emptied the reservoir. Check all of the hydraulics and try topping it off and bleeding the system. I've also had the same problem when I got the incorrect height pressure plate from clutchnet.

Unless its normalized afterwards, cold-rolled will be stronger. It will also not have any scale, and probably be more accurate.

You got one of them unlimited slip differentials!!

One of my earliest memories is being at the drag races in California with my Dad, I think he broke me. When was 14 or so I inherited a rusty '48 Chevy Fleetline Aerosedan... disassembled it and never got any further. Drove a Jeep through highschool, then bought a "running" '62 Thunderbird to hopefully drive while I was at college. It was a lemon, I rebuilt the enginen but never put in in. Then along came Formula SAE... one of the best, and worst experiences of my life so far. In 4 years I learned how to TIG weld, run a CNC mill, design, build and drive racecars... 4 racecars, and 2 SCCA Solo national titles later... I'm still in school and just trying to get done with my mechanical engineering degree. Formula SAE hooked me on cars that can handle, but I never lost my love of old cars. So my requirements in looking for a car were light, quick, RWD with SOUL... and no rust. I looked and looked for a good rust free car, and finally got what I thought was one. Bought it, drove down the street to put gas in it, which started leaking all over the place. Thats when I knew I had made a mistake... Since then its got a L28E, megasquirt, and is fairly reliable, and my only transportation. Unfortunately its been battered by hail, and its starting to rust through the nice new paint the previous owner hide done to hide all the problems. I love my car, I just wish I spend more time to find a real rust free one. Oh ya, I'm 22 =)

don't worry too much, I didn't know anything about wiring or soldering when I started. Just read a whole bunch, and make sure you've got a decent multi-meter. I recomend radio-shacks desoldering iron, its better than using a separate booger sucker bulb. Their soldering irons aren't that great though. I was really wishing for something stable to hold the board while I worked on it. http://cableorganizer.com/ has some really cool stuff. The roundit side-entry stuff is great, and the braided PET is good for small clusters of 1-3 wires, its just hard to get over connectors.

I just put MSII V3 on my L28E, a few things I would have done differently: -not use the MS relay board. I would have made my own little fuse/relay board that only connected the wires it needed, and not every single wire that goes to the engine -Used injector resistors and ran them as high-impedence. The PWM circuit cause a ton of really hard to track down noise. Putting in the resistors fixed this. -Sharpie the whole contact on the distributor rotor, after you get the trigger offset right, make sure that the sharpie is worn away towards the middle of the contact, it its not, move the distributor and reset the trigger offset. I was getting a missfire if I went below 20 degress because it was firing off the edge of the contact. Thats all I can think of now, you can PM me if you have any questions

I've used a synchrowave 250 with a watercooled torch a whole bunch. very nice. I briefly used a Lincoln TIG with "auto-balance" and it was pretty sweet. I haven't used it enough to really recommend it, but when I'm in the market for a TIG I will be looking at Lincoln too.

Which ones did you get, and are you happy with them? They've got narrow and wide angle. The 30LED version is compelling, but that might be too big to fit in the stock housings.

These could be winners, anyone used them before? http://www.sunbriteleds.com/product_listing.asp?id=66

Does anyone have a source for LED bulbs that will be a direct replacement for the standard bulbs? I've found a couple of places online that sell what I think would work, but they're expensive!! I'd like to replace all the bulbs that blink, and replace the flasher with an electric unit to lower the current that has to pass through the blinker switch, and hopefully make it last alot longer between rebuilds. These look good, but $20/bulb!! I am thinking hardwire might mean you have to splice it in as opposed to plug and play... http://www.customdynamics.com/motorcycle_led_bulbs.htm#Genesis_LED_Clusters_

Normally a cylindrical shape in an air stream produces a large wake behind it. My idea was to shroud as much of the valve stem as possible to avoid that. After looking at your CFD I think that the port walls prevent the wake from forming, and keep the air pretty laminar as it flows around the valve stem, making my idea probably not very worthwhile. Oh well, it would be interesting to see if it did anything. =)

What if... instead of trimming down the valve guide support/streamliner deal (I don't know what its actually called), you added material there in the shape of an airfoil to shroud as much of the valve stem as possible? In free-stream I think the lower Cd would more than make up for the increase frontal area of such a shroud, but I'm not sure what the effect would be when you've got the limited cross sectional area of a port. It seems like most of the air will be following the outer radius of the port, so maybe such a streamlined projection would only need to extend to about the port centerline. Adding material there doesn't seem like a very easy job though. I just had knee surgery... so if this idea really sucks, I blame the pain killers =)

I just bought 1' of 3 different kinds of mcmaster weatherstrip to see which one will work best, I'll post my findings when I test it out.

I agree with the other comments about Black Dragons crappiness. If they were the last woman on earth, I still wouldn't... fastzcars recommended this McMaster-carr part number to me: 1120A731 He said 25 ft for both doors, I measured more like 27. I haven't bought any yet to try it though.

haha, I saw that the other day. I thought it was real at first. My roomate has an AE86 so we each want to get one and RACE