Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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On a Saturday morning car show they were replacing the floorpans on a Shelby GT500. They first straightened the car on a frame machine, then welded the car to a massive steel table (on supports). That way none of the geometry would change as they cut off pieces and welded in new.
Obviously not an option for most of us guys. But I have often wondered how guys with home made rotisseries make sure the geometry is spot on. I would be temped to weld temporary braces throughout the car prior to any of the work, then just plan on towing the car to a frame shop for an alignment prior to painting.
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But if you replaced the ECU with an aftermarket variant, then the engine wouldn't be all Nissan anymore!
Just yanking your chain. Guess I have never understood the fascination some people have with that statement.
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Man, we picked up a ringer when zcarnut joined the board. Good info.
When I upgraded my 70 Z to a larger MC, I also had to reverse the hard lines at the MC. The front brakes must go to the tap with the larger reservoir. I think the early cars were switched front to back relative to the later ones.
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so what you saying is that if i won't have the condensor than i won't have fire from my dist .???
Yes, we are. In fact, get a good one from a real auto parts store (not a trak auto el cheapo). The condensor is very important. Getting a bad or marginally bad "new" part will drive you crazy.
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There are actually a lot of options for Z brakes. A lot of it comes down to cost. The Arizona Z car brakes are probably one of the best, but also one of the most expensive. They also don't have parking brakes which may or may not be an issue. And the guy who runs that place has a reputation in the Z community that is not so good.
Ross is definitely a first class guy. I have his 240 SX rear brakes. The brake set shown above looks excellent.
There are also a number of junk yard, do it your self options. The 2 most important things to get are a good set of pads and vented front rotors. Try a search in this forum and see what others have to say.
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Most people think the big bumpers are ugly, not to mention heavy. If it was a big bumpered 260, then it is basically indistinquishable from a 280 (IMO). In that case I would just fix up whichever one was less work.
Look through some other current posts. Quite a few guys are trying to back fit their 280's with the early bumpers. With the 260 you are one step ahead.
But like I said, unless you have the space and an understanding wife, pick one or the other and get on with it.
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Is it an early 260 with the 240 style bumpers or a later one with 280 style? If it is the early, small bumper 260 why not drop the L28 into the 260? Big bumper model than pick and match parts in whatever way gives you the cheapest final product.
A somewhat "restored" 260 (but with decent carbs) could easily fetch 4 grand or even more. But then again a good paint job costs about the same. Don't bite off more than you can chew. Get one car that runs and unload the rest.
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My bad. Was thinking of GM distributors. The Z dist has the ignition condensor on the outside of the distributor. You do need a new condensor to make the car run. The old GM distributors had the ignition condensor inside the distributor and a noise suppression cap on the outside.
The ignition condensor is what drains the coil current to ground when the points open, thus allowing the plugs to fire. Replacing it with a wire has effectively bypassed the points.
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when im done with this thing i want it to be the fastest car at the strip period.
Then you had better hope all the big boys forget to show up.
I think you need to readjust your goals. Certainly you aren't talking about beating nitro methane funny cars and such? 5 second quarter miles?
Spend a month reading through some old posts. It will give you a good idea of what is possible with a ZX. Start with the Chevy V8 forum since that is the most popular.
Also remember the old hot rodder adage: Speed costs money, how fast can you afford to go?
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There was a recent thread on E31 heads, like in the last couple of weeks. The E31 use to be the hi-po head, but apparantly it has smaller valves and/or a more restricted intake to match the smaller L24 bore. According to some the (I believe) E88 head is now the head of choice.
BTW, I wish people wouldn't get so uptight about telling people to do a search. It is not like anyone's income is dependent upon answering every post. If you don't feel like answering a repeat question, then hit your back button and go on. Besides, the search engine took a definite turn for the worse with the software switch.
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One other tidbit I picked up somewhere on this site
is that aluminum oxidizes so fast, that you have to get the primer on within 20 minutes of cleaning the metal.
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sure' date=' just ignore my question.
Thanks.[/quote']
Don't know off the top of my head, but I am sure if you did a search you could find your answer. Quick answer is the L24 engine and tranny weights about the same as a V8 with aluminum heads, intake and water pump, since cars with such a V8 mod don't gain much weight. An L24 probably weights more than an LS1.
TeamludeS, a stock LS6 engine in a vette is rated at 405 HP. LS1's in Camaros and such are rated at 330 HP. The slightly older LT1/LT4's came in 285 hp to 340 HP versions. All of the above will have considerably more HP than the 4 bangers at low RPM's.
I want to challange peoples assumption that the lighter SR20 engines will produce a better handling track car. There is such a thing as throttle response. I find it hard to believe that these little engines could be pumped up to 500+ HP without significant turbo lag. Turbo lag can make a car difficult to drive, especially for an inexperienced driver.
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New oil before anything else. Flushing the antifreeze wouldn't hurt either.
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i have also exchanged the condensor on the side of the distributor for just a plain 18 gage wire because a friend of mine told me it could be bad (it had surface rust all over it) and i hve not gotten a spark from the coil yet
The condenser on the side of the dist is to reduce ignition noise in your radio. If you did what I think you are saying and replaced the condenser with a wire, then you have shorted your ignition out to ground. No way will your car start like this. Take off the wire. You really don't need the condenser on the side of the dist.
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Spiirit
You haven't read too many of my posts! I have closed more threads on torque and HP than anyone on this site. You just hit on a reoccuring theme that I have trouble letting go of.
No offense was intended.
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I also used to be one of those federal officers another member suggested we all shoot in the head (Since we wear bullet prrof vests!).
Ahh, don't need to rely on head shots. A 30-06 will easily punch through a vest. A 338 if they have the riot vests.
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My brother owns #548 built Jan 70.
Trent
How can chassis #548 be Jan of 70 and chassis #648 be a 69?
Pretty sure the VIN numbers were chronological.
If you look at the auto auctions, lower numbered cars usually sell for more regardless of make/model. And the more original the better. I think once you hammer in a piece of sheet metal as a floor pan then the number becomes more of an interesting curiosity. Especially if the original engine and trans are gone. In some of those auctions the car takes a price hit if you don't have the original owner's manual or correct factory paint markings on the production components. Fiberglass body panels take them completely out of the game.
As for restoration, the price of classic Z's still aren't up in the 10's of thousands, so it would be hard to justify the cost of a restoration on a car this far gone.
A car is only worth what someone will pay for it so in that sense I have been wrong before. But, as we have all seen, the average selling price of a V8 Z is usually WAY less than the cost of the conversion. No "purist" is going to touch a car with this many mods and few hybriders care enough about getting an early model to pay much of a premium for one. They just want to go fast. So it is hard for me to determine where this one fits in.
Just one man's opinion...
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I thought the cable went over the top of the diff and under the cross member. I guess between the diff and mount would be better, if there is room.
Even JTR says it is a "ghetto" fix, but what the hell. It is cheap and it seems to work.
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Alright Mr. Powers....I'm going to let you get away with that!
Wasn't directing my comments at you. You are just thinking the problem though and I was trying to help. What I was refering to were postings like this
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The 5252 is not a constant. You use that number because you chose to express torque in foot pounds and power in horsepower. If you rated your engine in newton-meters and kilowatts (like the rest of the world) the number would be 9549. The number is simple a conversion factor between units, just like 1 foot = 12 inches.
There is nothing nebulous about power. There are very precise physical relationships between force, energy and power. Although judging from the number of erroneous web tutorials I have read, it is not hard to imagine why the average motorhead's understanding of power is nebulous.
I wouldn't read too much into the idea that torque is what is commonly measured on the dyno. That is just the easiest way to do it. Under certain circumstances it is easier to measure power first and to derive torque from that. It doesn't change the realtionship between the two, nor should it alter your interpretation of their meaning.
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Nothing squashes creativity like having the finger of God brought down on you because somebody doesn't agree with your idea.
Or because they have personal issues with your vernacular.
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The fan could be wired to run backwards, but you would lose a lot of airflow since the blade design is pretty complex to optimize airflow in the other direction.
If you were ever to consider such a mod again, I would figure out a way to keep the fan pointed forward when moving it to the other side of the radiator. Or just mount the fan lower on the radiator (if that is an option).
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Actually I take that back. I never got past the words "wide body kit" in your original post.
Z's, especially the early ones, do experience a good bit of lift at speed from all the air getting underneath the car. The steering gets very light at 100+. In that case a good air dam will keep air out of the engine bay and help keep the front end stable. I guess that is the same as downforce. A G nose looks like it would do the same thing, but I have no experience with those.
Try shooting Mike Kelly a PM. He once posted he added enough aerodynamic mods to make a Z stable at 160 MPH. Invited anyone who was interested to ask him how it was done.
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I read in Newsweek that the project budget deficit for CA this year is larger that the total budget for 42 states.
I don't envy the next CA governor, whoever it is. Or the poor taxpayers and state (soon to be unemployed) workers for that matter.
Thought i would share my mods.... and why im depressed.....
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
Could be worse. You could be married.
With a shopping list like that.....