Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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But wait' date=' the V8 and T56 Combo are supposed to be SOOOOO Much heavier!
[/quote']
LOL
At least 500 pounds is what I have heard.
Phantom, doesn't your car have an R230 rear with CV's? Were those in there already?
In all fairness, I think this is part of the 500# weight gain that most people associate with a V8 swap. An upgrade that probably isn't necessary with an L6 set up.
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Don't know about San Diego, but check out ebay. There is a place near me in Bristol PA that sells complete engine-tranny combos all the time for around 2 grand. Less for autos. Try a search on this site. Other guys have listed what they have paid for their set ups. 2K is ball park, depending upon the deal.
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How did it wear out the tires in 12000 miles? New floor pans? Missing center console? Small fire?
Hardest 12000 miles I have ever heard of.
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I thought the glub glub glub sound came from the headers themselves. That is the one advantage of cast iron exhaust manifolds. Would some type of thermal tape on the headers cut their resonance?
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Stock rear end no problem. But second what 80LT1 said. I'll bet you can get a complete Cheby 305 with tranny, driveshaft and all the fixins for well under $800. Hell, you could get an entire running car for that. Ask your local car dealer to look for tradeins.
Of course, if this is the engine you want to build to 400 HP, then complete LT1's with T56 6 speeds can easily be had for $2000. Less if you shop or are satisfied with an automatic tranny. Will save $$ thowing away the 305 if you do it right in the first place.
If you want 450-500 streetable HP, then you are looking at a 383 or 400 engine anyway. In that case get the 305 to give you a cheap car to drive while you have the monster engine built. 500 HP is possible from an LT1, but will require some work and will be less streetable.
Chassis work can wait forever if you exercise some restaint with your right foot. A stock 305 with an auto is mild enough that you may have no chassis worries at all.
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My guess is the reassembly stage will go MUCH quicker if you use a digital camera to take pictures of everything as you take it off.
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That is a pretty tough phrasing of Ohms law.
Ohms law says that the voltage drop across a circuit is equal to the current through the circuit times the circuit's resistance. Or
Volts = ( current flow ) X ( resistance )
If you know any two of the above (say voltage drop and current flow), then you can calculate the third (in this case resistance).
So much for the hard way.
The easy way to think of electricity is as water flowing through a valve or pipe. If you open a valve half way, then you will get a current flowing through the pipe. The "current" is measured in say litres per hour (down south anyway). If you open the valve further, then the valve has less "resistance" to flow and allows more current to pass. Similarly, increasing the water pressure will make the water come out faster also.
So think of voltage as a measure of the pressure forcing current to flow through the circuit (pipe). Ohms law expresses this in units of "volts". Current is current (volume per second). Electrical current is generally expressed in amps, which is the number of electrons passing through the wire per second (close enough). Resistance is just some mathmatical set of units to make the equation work, hence Mr. Ohm used his own name to define resistance.
In a car, the battery or generator is the voltage source (water pump). Everything else, every wire, connector, fuse, bulb etc has some resistance. If current flows through a circuit, than anything in the circuit with resistance will cause a voltage drop. Just like a kink in a garden hose, every little resistance causes a voltage drop that reduces current flow somewhat. And just like too many kinks in the hose will cause such a pressure loss that no water will flow, dirty or broken electrical connectors will have so much resistance that the voltage at the load (bulb, starter motor, etc.) will not have enough umph to light them up.
Trying to translate, by leads I believe you mean plug wires. If you see arcs off your plug wires to say the valve covers, then we need to take the water analogy a bit further. Just like water, electricity will always take the path of least resistance. A cut in a garden hose near the spigot means most of the water will flow out the cut rather than down the hose.
With a plug wire, the insulation is suppose to offer a super high resistance to electrical flow, typically millions of ohms (megaohms). Thus the spark goes down the wire to the plug. But, if the insulation gets old, it gets dirty or has small cracks which reduces the insulating capability. At the same time, if small breaks form in the center conductor or the connector at the plug gets corroded, then they offer an increased resistance to flow. Thus the spark now finds it is easier to jump through the plug wire to the valve cover then to flow down the wire.
Ignition circuits are a little more complicated than say a turn signal circuit because of the high voltages needed to force a current through the large resistance of the plug gap, and because the current is not a steady, direct current (DC) but pulsed or alternating. The high voltage means even something like a little bit of dirt will cause an arc to ground, especially dirt in a small crack. The pulsed current means things can act like a transformer, causing current to flow in a wire completely isolated from the main circuit. This means a layer of dirt or grease on the outside of an otherwise perfect plug wire, or putting two wires too close together, will cause arcing.
So when the mechanic told you to measure the resistance of the wire, he had you checking for breaks or corroded terminators. But, if you are seeing arcs, first trying cleaning the outside of the wires with hand cleaner and put in a fresh set of spark plugs. If you still see arcs, or if you find even hairline cracks in say the plastic insulator on the coil, then replace the plug wires and/or coil.
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I don't think you are suppose to mix brake fluid with motor oil. Just like antifreeze' date=' I think brake fluid makes the motor oil un-recycleble.[/quote']
Well we cant let it build up in containers in our garages
I hear you. But I don't know what to do about it. I did a quick web search and confirmed what I thought, Mixing anything like antifreeze, degreasers or paint solvents makes motor oil un-recyclable. (One teaspoon of antifreeze will contaminate up to 50 gallons of oil) Anything with chlorine (like using empty bleach containers) will make it un recyclable also.
Brake fluid is a little less clear. I found one site that said it could be mixed with used oil for recycling (a recycle center in Hawaii). Every other site said to NOT mix brake fluid with oil. Several sites flat out stated that brake fluid and transmission fluid cannot be recycled and must be disposed of as toxic waste.
What to do.
Funny, one site listed windsheild washer fluid as a toxic waste. They said to wear gloves when adding it. Their recommendation was to use 3 parts vinegar to 1 part water instead of buying methonol based windsheild washer fulid.
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I seal it in an empty antifreeze container and put it in the trash. Unfortunately our dump's recycle center doesn't take brake fluid or tranmission fluid. They take everything else though.
I don't think you are suppose to mix brake fluid with motor oil. Just like antifreeze, I think brake fluid makes the motor oil un-recycleble.
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Heavy Z
Looking back you are correct, the anti American statements were made by others and not you. Since the rest of my rant was directed at your statements I must apologize. But I still think you are way off base on this.
Getting back to the original post, I don’t see how anyone can fault Lynch for much of anything. All that woman did was what this country asked of her. She has no more control over the media than you or I. My wife and I followed that story from the day I first read of the capture. Her return alive after all the chaos in that country is truly a story of timeless interest, regardless of the details. And if any one thinks that this 19 year old, lowly private was commanding that convoy (she was a cook for God’s sake), then they should be even more impressed that someone so young was trusted enough to lead a lightly armed convoy through an active battle zone. And who can blame her family for not wanting to talk about this? Who would want their life destroyed by excessive media attention? And as for the “Hollywood†assessment, that statement itself is a media sound bite of the worst kind. If you read many posts from that war you will realize our troops fired at pretty much anything that came towards them. That is how wars are won so quickly. While in hindsight it sure looks like they could have accomplished the mission with much less “dramaâ€, the troops were not operating “in hindsightâ€. There is no question in my mind that they did the right thing by not taking any chances. Remember, even Amnesty International was condemning the Iraqi violations of the Geneva convention by dressing up as surrendering civilians to ambush soldiers, and for this very reason. Finally, when you get right down to it, the news article in the original post was making fun of the TV execs more than anyone else. All of those made for TV movies are grandiose garbage anyway.
But I stand by my comments concerning that activist, however callous they are. Your original post attempting to glorify her actions with flowery prose is just as blatant as any Fox or Rush Limbaugh article. I suppose you think we should post pictures of the kid who joined the Taliban on the “wall of heroes� Wasn’t he an American citizen fighting for what he believed in? If you cannot find the distinction between Lynch and this activist then you are simply not being honest. And I don’t mean in terms of loyalty to their countries or beliefs either.
And what makes people think that every bulldozer in Israel was “bought with US tax dollars� You have to put these things in context. People conveniently seem to forget that the US gives more financial aid to Egypt than Israel, and that the early Arab-Israeli wars were all fought with French and Russian weapons. We were one of the few countries in the world that refused to sell weapons to them. And yet somehow they survived.
Face it, the situation in the middle east is infinitely more complicated than the recent string of current events. To blame us for the problem is incomprehensible.
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My 1970 240 has never stunk of fumes. Just lucky I guess. With the rear hatch partially open it is a death machine, but with it closed never a problem. I did get gas fumes in hard turns before I replaced all the vent hoses, but none after.
I am of the opinion that in addition to sealing everything the position of the tail pipe has a lot to do with it. There was an old thread started by z8red about rear diffusers that lent some support to this theory. In that thread one guy claims he fixed the problem with 4 or 5 inch tail pipe extension.
240's like to twist a lot so the seal on the rear hatch is alway suspect. If a piece of paper slides under the weatherstrip on a closed hatch you have a problem. Also rust holes can contribute to the problem, especially since 240's typically have some rust at the base of the hatch.
Interesting comment about 280's vs. 240's.
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If water is in the bottom of your car, then it undoubtably came from some point higher in the car (gravity and all). Besides weatherstrip, look for rust on the deck of the hatch area and at the firewall just inside the grill vents at the base of the windsheild.
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There was a guy on this site that built a full tube chassis to race his Z in "E" modified (what ever that means). Unfortunately I can't find the thread since the switch to the new host. But if memory serves, his whole car was going to come in at something like 1700 pounds. Definitely not stock.
Unibody cars are a good idea. Why add weight that isn't structural (which is what the body panels become on a frame car)? Unibody cars are generally lighter and more rigid (for the weight) then frame cars. The draw backs are they are more complicated to design and build (although modern technology has this pretty well figured out) and don't give as smooth a ride. A frame car can be built heavier and include more isolation between the coach and the frame.
But for a sports car you want light weight and good road feel.
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Trying to make out this woman as an American folk hero. That's humorous. What makes you think Americans can identify with such an arrogant simpleton?
Why do you suppose this woman actually thought she was any more capable of stopping the Israeli actions than the Palestinians? Was is just her over inflated sense of self worth or her lack of respect for the Palestinian people?
Yeah, maybe she died fighting for something she believed in. Or if not in Palestine maybe she would have died by chaining herself to a tree protesting food additives. Noble causes? Maybe. Or maybe she is just one more almond rattling around in the bottom of the Planters can. Her death has done nothing more than to further prove Darwin right.
This thread has turned rather pointless. Proving once again that some people only see what they want to see. You are not going to sway many peoples opinions by insulting all Americans and accusing us of causing the problems in the middle east. People have been killing each other in the middle east for over 2000 years while the American government you so disdain has only existed for just over 200.
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My 70 240 would occasionally feel like the pedal was bottoming out on hard stops. Scary. I replaced the stock MC with a larger diameter model from a 280 to solve the problem.
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A member named Dave has a directory with all kinds of subframe pictures
http://12.224.138.77:8884/Files/Datsun/Subframe/
Excellent site. If you look at the picture titled zcar-seethru.jpg it has the drawing of the subframe reenforcements for the convertible Z car kit. It was suppose to be a bolt in kit for their convertible, but they said it would be good for a V8Z.
Sorry. No pictures of the girl in the short skirt scratching her kootch on the door lock.
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Wild Turkey!! Someone has more money than me.
You can get two 1.75 Litre bottles of Black Velvet for the price of a quart of Wild Turkey. Plus the BV comes in a non-breakable plastic bottle. Now that is shop safety.
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Ever been to the Philippines? There taxis are called Jeepneys. WWII Wilys jeeps still running strong.
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Mags are magnesium alloy. I don't think they burn. I know old Volkswagon bettles had magnesium alloy differential cases that would burn if they got too hot. I remember reading "how to make a dune buggy" manuals that warned to take frequent breaks when griding on the diffs or else they would light up.
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Sports Compact Car magazine tested the cars from the movie. I haven't bought the mag yet but another post said the Yenko, a 1969 427 Camaro, was the fastest car in the movie. Said most of the other cars did the quarter in the 14's.
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Louvers are disco. I always associate them with the 70's.
You guys have talked about FnF so much I actually rented it just the other day. I enjoyed it. No worse than a Bruce Willis or Mel Gibson movie. The plot was a blatant formula rip off of that Kennea Reeves-Patrick Swayse movie (Point Break?).
The thing that caught my attention was the way they tried to sound knowledgeable about cars by rattling off the model numbers of a bunch of name brand parts. Makes me better understand why new members always start posts with "I've been contemplating a new engine idea for my Z, what do you think of a (fill in the blank) with twin turbos?"
One funny thing, the DVD included a bonus track about the guy who supposedly started the whole F&F scene. They said his name was Racer X. No relation to our RacerX I hope?
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Wal Mart sells harness kits. Hook one up to your existing wiring then you will never have trouble removing the player again. The harness kits even decode the wire colors and show pin layouts.
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The age of the cylinder head design really doesn't have much to do with it. It is more from a lack of effort that a Z head doesn't match up to a Supra's. Stutz and Duesenberg were building DOHC 4 valve per cylinder engines over 90 years ago. The techonology has existed forever, it is just that some car manufactures put more effort into it than others.
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With standalone I could lean it out like a mofo, and then pass smog like that
Leaning it out will cause the hydrocarbon emissions to go WAY up. Ask me how I know.
You will get the lowest overall emission numbers when the car is tuned to run right. If your cam is not too radical and your engine in good shape/tune, then you should have no trouble passing a sniff test using standards from a 20 to 30 year old car. If you have to meet the standards for a newer engine, then you might need a little more.
Sniff tests don't test the car under a very wide range of conditions. That is why most smog laws require quite a bit more. I also think that is why smog laws don't want you to do anything to your car. It is too hard for them to determine how the change will affect emissions.
Quad Cam V8
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
I think either the Nissan or Toyota full size pick up has a quad cam V8.