Pop N Wood

An old member, Lone in Arizona, replaced the pedal box assembly in his Z to go from auto to manual. He documented it also. Said it was a major PITA, but something you only have to do once. Might try searching on Lone's old post and see if his web sight is still active.

Look anything like this? http://www.quaifeamerica.com/ The JTR manual has a picture of the internals of a Gleason Torsen rear. The ATB diffs have all the extra gears.

http://www.turbobuicks.com/members/scottiegnz/vette-irs-swap.htm Not for the faint of heart.

Funny thing was Datsun only shipped 4 speeds to the US. The rest of the world got 5 speeds in their 240's. I think the US 240's were all 4 speeds. The 5 speed is a very worthwhile upgrade though

You can find bondo by tapping on the sheet metal with your finger. Sheet metal has some give and kinda echos. bondo is more of a dull thud. Key areas are the battery tray, the flat area under the rear hatch and the rocker panels just in front of the rear wheels. The lower extremities are where most of the bondo will reside. While the places above are probably the first areas to rust, they are also the easiest to fix. It is the rusted floor pans that would make me look for a different car.

I use to work for a guy from Cleveland. I'll bet he is the originator of the term Cleveland Steamer.

260zman You da man! Never heard of that solution but it sounds trick! I did throw out my EZouts years ago. I have never had any luck with them.

Traffic school is a great place to meet women.

The Vette LS6 engine is also 405 HP. Should make an absolute killer Z engine. Without question the engine I would like to find used and cheap. All aluminum block, good flowing heads, streetable, distributorless ignition. Killer Like the guys have said, externally the same dimensions as the LS1 small block, so reading past posts should give you an idea what is involved with the swap. Haven't done it my self but from what I have read it is not as straight forward as a standard iron SBC. Performance parts are not as common and thus more pricey, but with 405 HP you may have all the engine you will want. Search on LS1 and you will get more info then you could possibly absorb.

I would be careful about telling a judge I was speeding because my speedo doesn't work. Might get you in even more trouble. Also speedo shops cost too much. Borrow a hand held GPS unit from sombody (boaters and hunters often have them) and calibrate the speedo yourself.

Don't know much about technical schools, but I will say that as long as you put an honest effort into it then going to school is never a waste of time. Even if you eventually end up working in a field unrelated to your degree (or finish just short of a degree), an education is something that will benefit you in countless ways throughout the rest of your life. Sounds like you have already avoided the biggest mistake that most guys make. The fact you are considering options means you probably haven't gotten anyone pregnate yet Would like to second what some of the other guys have said. Chances are you don't have to go out of state to find a good school. UTI is probably everything they say it is, but ask around there might be other, possibly cheaper alternatives that are as good. Talk to the service department managers at some local car dealerships and see what they look for. They might be more familiar with a local school. High school shop teachers should be helpful also. Having said all that a 4 year degree is not for everybody. Gotta find something you like and hopefully it will be in something you can make a living at. IMO that is one of the biggest benefits of college. It gives you a chance to experience life and figure out what it is you really want. You may have found your calling, but trust me, very few 18 year olds know what it is they want to do. And the good thing is you don't have to make a permanent decision for many years yet. BTW, don't be too hard on computer people. All kinds of normal people make a living with computers. Even HS nerds have a way of becoming more normal as they get older. If you have the aptitude for it and want a job with good job security and earnings potential, then electrical engineering is hard to beat. The company I work for is offering new grads up to $70,000 a year and still having trouble finding enough people to hire.

This topic has been covered many times. The only sure way to tell if you have LSD is to pull the rear cover and look for clutches. A worn LSD will look like an open diff. So will a quaiffe. An open diff on an independent rear suspension will usually spin both tires since you don't have the solid axlel torquing one wheel off the ground.

Did you guys know that the majority owner of Nissan is Reanault.... A French company? Guess we need to boycott Nissan.

How about a whale tale? Those are cool.

If you have 14 V on the battery with the engine running, then your alternator is working. With the engine off the voltage should read around 12 volts. If it flat "won't crank at all" after running then my guess is the solenoid. Those guys get heat and voltage sensitive when they get old. When you get in the "won't crank" stage try wedging a screw driver across the solenoid terminals (short across the large lug the battery cable connects to and the lug directly below this coming out of the solenoid into the starter). If it cranks (obviously make sure the car is out of gear before you do this) then either replace or rebuild the solenoid. Oh, and with any electrical problem the first thing to do is clean and inspect all of the battery connections, including the connectors at the other ends of the cables. "Looks clean" doesn't mean squat, unbolt the connection and take a wire brush to them.

You might try a chin pan. Helps reduce turbulence underneath the car and smooths out air flow through the radiator at speed. MSA sells the Nissan part.

Instead of pop up headlights, how hard do you think it would be contour the headlight buckets like this guy has, but to install some small diameter headlights (like off an Acura or Celica) into the flat portion at the very front of the contour?

I am using the larger MC with stock brakes and stainless steel brake lines. I honestly think the MC was undersized on the early 240's (mine is a 70). With the stock MC there would be white knuckle times where my foot would be on the floor yet the brakes would not be grabbing like they should. Would almost want to double pump the brakes. The larger MC (which means it can move a greater volume of fluid) took care of that. I did not notice any appreciable increase in pedal effort due to the larger MC diameter. BTW, if you look on the Arizona Z car website, they recommend the larger MC with their 4 wheel disk set ups. That is where I found the write up on installing the larger MC with the old Z's (the front and rear reservoirs are swapped on the two MC's). The big difference in brake feel came from the SS brake lines. Man, they make for a stiff brake pedal!! It is amazing how much the rubber brake lines expand when you brake. I probably could have fixed my bottoming brake pedal problem with my Z by using SS lines, but in my case the larger MC came first. So the short answer is you most certainly won't hurt anything by going to the next larger size MC (except your wallet), so to me it is cheap insurance.

I am using the larger MC with stock brakes and stainless steel brake lines. I honestly think the MC was undersized on the early 240's (mine is a 70). With the stock MC there would be white knuckle times where my foot would be on the floor yet the brakes would not be grabbing like they should. Would almost want to double pump the brakes. The larger MC (which means it can move a greater volume of fluid) took care of that. I did not notice any appreciable increase in pedal effort due to the larger MC diameter. BTW, if you look on the Arizona Z car website, they recommend the larger MC with their 4 wheel disk set ups. That is where I found the write up on installing the larger MC with the old Z's (the front and rear resiviours are swapped on the two MC's). The big difference in brake feel came from the SS brake lines. Man, they make for a stiff brake pedal!! It is amazing how much the rubber brake lines expand when you brake. I probably could have fixed my bottoming brake pedal problem with my Z by using SS lines, but in my case the larger MC came first. So the short answer is you most certainly won't hurt anything by going to the next larger size MC (except your wallet), so to me it is cheap insurance.

I would upgrade. Could be the cheapest money you ever spend.

If there was no brake fluid when you got the car, then my guess is the brake system is in pretty bad shape. The rubber can actually break down with time, turning into a sludge. The worst place for this is the MC, but you have already taken care of that. From there you turn to the calipers and wheel cylinders. I would most certainly replace the brake lines at all 4 corners. Sounds like you still have air in the MC. If you have an air leak anywhere in the system, you will just keep pumping air through the MC. You are never really priming the pump, so to speak. Try this. Clamp off 3 of the 4 corners by clamping a vise grips on the brake line. Don't crush the lines, just enough pressure to clamp them off. Then connect a piece of clear tubing to the bleeder valve on the remaining brake. Place the other end of the tubing into a jar with an inch or two of brake fluid. With the bleeder valve open about a 1/4 turn, get in and pump the brake pedal repeatedly until fluid starts to flow. Keep the MC resevour full. Pump a couple more inches of fluid into the jar. Having the end of the tubing in the fluid keeps you from sucking air back into the line and lets you pump the pedal quickly without shutting the bleeder valve each time. Make sure you close the bleeder valve before pulling off the tube. Once you finish this, I would pump a full can or two of brake fluid though the brakes. This should flush out any crap that has accumulated with the dry lines. Then replace your brake lines, still using the tubing and jars to bleed.

What did it do to the head?

You need to buy some books and start reading. How much boost you can run will depend heavily on what type of engine internals and head you have. An intercooler will make a difference also. That is about all I know, so if I were in your position I would definitely be doing some reading. How do you know your CR is only 8.5:1? That is really low, almost like the engine was originally intended for forced induction. Maybe all of your internals are forged? Or maybe somebody bolted on the wrong head for the pistons you have. Also keep in mind, if you go forced induction your car will almost certainly be one bad a$$ mo fo. I am talking King Kong here. You will NEED to do a LOT of work to make the car handle this type of power. Greimann's advice is worth considering. A 400 HP naturally aspirated Z is a truly beautiful thing.

Has anyone ever had any luck with and EZ out? I think I have broken every one I have ever tried to use.

Some one once mentioned that losing a stub axle will cause you to lose the rear wheel unless you have something like a rear disk brake upgrage. Might still need to address the positive rear axle retention issue.