Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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I put a Jacobs Electronics ignition box on my stock 240 many years ago. Jacobs sells a tach amplifier that installs in the ignition circuit to allow the early 240 tach to work with modern electronics. Super easy to install and mucho less work then gutting a tach.
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The flat tops were emission carbs and reported ran like s**t and tended to vapor lock. Swapping them out with early SU's is what everyone does.
The early SU's are sweet carbs and probably give the best overall mix of performance, economy and drivablity. Can be a little expensive to rebuild properly since the 20+ year old carbs develop vacuum leaks through worn throttle shaft bushings.
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????Horsepower is basically an imaginary number ...Horsepower has a well defined meaning, work per unit time. Agree there are many different ways to measure it, but it is a measure of a physical entity. It is very real.
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JTR claims they are cast iron.
Fool proof way to tell: use a magnet.
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Then yet one more solution: Modify Paul's design to take the rubber out of the stock mount (the rubber above the cross piece). Could then lower the front of the diff more toward the cross piece since all of the isolation is coming from underneath.
Ground clearance should not be an issue since you will lose the exhaust first.
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Looking back, I didn't mean to disrespect the urethane idea, just taking a SWAG at it. If someone has one that works, then by all means share it.
Looking at a different site I came across this idea:
http://zccw.org/Tech/Differential/MysteryClunk.html
Add this to the JTR suggestion of wrapping some wire cable around the diff and cross member and we are up to 7 suggestions. Trouble is past posts have said the cable will stretch, so one of the many top mounted designs look more permanent.
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Thanks PaulR, now there are 4!
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Yeah, an "unbreakable" diff mount would be much aapreciated. Unfortunately, I don't think making it out of urethane will make any difference. It is the adhesive bond cementing the isolator to the top and bottom plates that fails.
What needs to be done is to redesign the mount to put int under compression instead of tension. There have been at least 3 different designs on this board for doing so. All require bending and welding some metal.
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I've sent cars to salvage yards and they weren't too concerned about titles. Of course mine were real pieces of junk when I scrapped them.
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Where did you get the rear brake kit? Is that an Arizonia Z car kit?
Love the clean look.
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My first guess is insufficient fuel flow. Low speeds (engine load) need less gas, higher speeds more. If the fuel delivery starts to lag, the float levels get low, engine goes lean and starts to stall, this uses less gas so, float level starts to catch up, .... you get the idea.
Checking the fuel filters is the right place to start. Doing a general engine/fuel system inspection is also needed. Look for kinked lines, leaks, dirt, bad vacuum lines etc.
Check the carbs, make sure the oil level in the SU's is good with the proper weight oil. Also make sure the (I forget what they are called) CV cylinders move smoothly.
Check ignition as suggested above. Could be a vacuum advance issue, but my guess is fuel problem. A general check out is good practice anyway.
If all good (and fix the tank leak for God's sake) then check the fuel pressure at the carbs, especially with a partially full tank. If you can mount the gage where you can see it while driving, then you should be able to tell if it goes low when the engine is stalling.
But my guess is the fuel pump isn't getting it done. Do a flow check on the pump.
My guess is one of the above will find the problem for you.
Also the postings have been pretty slow lately. My guess with the holidays and cold weather, not many guys are working on their cars.
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If you want a bigger radiator, then just take your stock one to a local radiator shop and have them recore it with a 2 or 3 row core. Will cool fine for a nissan 6 and most V8's. if not then you probably have something else wrong.
The only problem with the stock radiator is weight. A Griffen aluminum works great at a fraction of the weight. Summit has them at reasonale prices.
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I'll bet old Evel would like the full inch of chop back about now.
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Yeah, don't hammer it
The weak link in the R180's is the spider gears. Weld up the spider gears (using the proper alloy welding rod, the JTR manual has the correct one) and the only thing you will have to worry about are the U joints.
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Had sort of come to the same conclusion. Would be nice to have the 345 HP that the LT4 are reputed to have vs. the 270 HP of most LT1's. Plus I have always loved the look of roller rockers.
My goal is to eventually get AFR heads, so I might consider an iron head LT1 (saw a number of them advertised on ebay) for the initial swap.
But the big thing is I can't see paying a premium for the ZF tranny when it looks to be not as suitable for a Z. Could only find one guy in the archives who tried to install one and he was trying to figure out the shift linkage.
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What do you guys think of this deal?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1872867714
An LT4 with ZF 6 speed transmission. This place is within driving distance of my house. Doesn't look like there is too much interest (0 bids with 12 hours left). I assume the reserve price of $3450 is the minimum they will sell it for?
What is the deal with the ZF transmission? Can't remember but I thought they didn't fit the Z too well.
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If I am reading this correctly, it sounds like the LS1 swap is now even easier than the JTR classic 350 swap?
True?
Too good to be true?
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I swapped from an R180 to an R200 in my 70 Z and reused the front diff mount. So see no reason why an R200 diff mount won't work on an R180. In fact, I didn't know they were different.
For butt cheap I like the idea of welding some steel plates between the upper and lower metal pieces. I don't think you will be able to get the cable tight enough to stop all the clunking. Besides, if you have access to a welder the plate method should be a zero cost option.
Long term look through the archives for alternate diff mount solutions. The stock unit is truely a bad design.
Glad to hear some people can get away with a solid mount. I had one on my Z for 10 minutes and the car was so loud it physically hurt my ears. No exageration.
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Bike cable, zip ties and hopefully heavy return springs in case something slips.
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I want one in my Z because I want to run dual exhaust out both rear corners. The fuel cells just seem more compact than trying to adapt a bizarre shaped tank designed for another car.
If you look through the Summit catalog you will see you can get a tank of almost any size you want. For my Z the nice, rectangular shapes should provide a good fit.
Also there is something to be said for starting with a brand new, unused, unrusted, fumeless tank instead of draining and trying to cut up an old tank full of fumes.
I am sure other guys will chime in with a the safety advantages. I know you can get them foam filled also.
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Not trying to flame anyone. But your post stated pretty unequivocally that it “couldn’t” be done. Whether is “shouldn’t” be done is an entirely different question.
Also you seem to be assuming he is working with a stock engine. What if he was planing a turbo on a V8? Moving the turbo out of the engine bay “might” be the only option.
Also I don’t think the insulation on the exhaust piping would be that demanding. I once worked in a nuke plant that had an in line, 20 cylinder Diesel that was over 20 feet long. Since the turbo was at the front of the beast that meant the exhaust from #20 cylinder had a good 20 feet of piping.
Your comments about the length of the intake piping are valid. However, if you were to measure the length of piping through a typical intercooler set up I would imagine the total round trip length would be on the order of 6 feet or more. Not unlike the one way distance from the passenger’s seat to the intake manifold.
All that said, I agree the best place for a turbo, especially on a performance car that wants some throttle response, is as close as possible to the exhaust ports. The farther away it is moved, the less efficient it will be and the more lag that will be incurred.
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There are 2 pi radians in 360 degrees.
It is really as simple as that.
Just like feet and meters. They measure the same thing, just different units.
One "revolution" is 360 degrees (one full turn).
so 1 "Revolution per minute" = 360 degrees per 60 seconds = 6 deg per second = 0.1047 radians per second
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Respectfully disagree. While far from ideal, as long as the exhaust piping back to the turbo is well insulated you should be able to develop boost. Remember, it is not the exhaust "velocity" that spins the turbine. It is the energy released when the hot exhaust gasses expand.
Case in point, the Republic P-47 Thunderbolt, a WWII fighter, had a 2800 cubic inch radial in the front with the turbo back behind the cockpit half way to the tail of the plane. Probably a good 12 to 15 feet. The turbo was the size of a small refrigerator and the ducting looks like a furnace ducting! I have pictures but didn't find any on line.
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You need to go to the doctor and get your medications adjusted or quit taking the damn things! Prescription anti-depressants are as lethal as most street drugs, and don’t you ever forget it. You shouldn’t be taking them unless you are properly monitored.
Also most reputable doctors will not put you on such things unless you are actively seeing a mental health professional at the same time. You need to talk about this with your shrink, not a bunch of motor heads (no offence guys, we’re a smart bunch but this isn’t something you fool around with). And if you aren’t seeing a mental health professional, then get rid of your current doctor and find someone that knows what they are doing.
Want a long term solution? Join the Marines. They will either make a man out of you or put you out of your misery.
need help distorying a video tape!!!! please help!
in Non Tech Board
Posted
I think you should post a copy of the tape on line so we will know better how to help you.
Also a BIG magnet will do the trick.